RC 4" suspension question....not issue!!

[hodge-xj]

Thanks to all! I work out at sea so I'll be home in a few days and get measurements. The alignment shop always says it's within spec but I still get wear.
Those RC N3 struts look nice. Maybe I'll contact RC and see if they fit my application.

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They should be a direct fit. If anything ask them if they'll do you a solid considering it's pretty apparent your old struts are wiped. Give them a shout on their online chat support. They are a very helpful company.


Within spec doesn't always mean right. Yoir tires are obvious of this.

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[huntinrod]

I reached out to RC CS and we are exchanging info. Thanks. I'll update.

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[ram1500rsm]

OP, Like JB1 said the angle of the CV seems normal for 4” bracket lifts. I’ve often wonder how much uptravel you guys can have considering the CV is already angled up/ reverse of a normal 2-2.5" lift. Technically you have factory travel up/down because you've lifted with brackets as opposed to us who lifted with an adjustable strut or coilover. we tend to loose some downtravel the higher we go and gain uptravel without wanting more sometimes
but what makes you think you need more uptravel ?

Do you have a place where you can tuck one front wheel up ?
I used a boulder in this case but really can be anything that can hold your truck full weight, put her in 4low and climb the obstacle up slowly until you feel your rear tire lifting slighly from the ground. at that point you are at max tuck in the front.
i think you can also use a fork lift if you have access to one.
either way you'll know if the wheel can go all the way up.

This is without front sway bar because i wanted to test the absolute max of the tire/fender on 35's before getting 37's.

Untitled by RAM RSM, on Flickr

and how my CV looks tucked to the max, i'd think the CV could go up a tad more based on how the Cv's look like for those lifting 4" without the brackets putting them in bad angles. So the CV angle should not be the limiting point in your case but if it's it should very apparent once you tuck the wheel up.


Untitled by RAM RSM, on Flickr

This is how the UCA looks like at max tuck, Kings are also 1" longer than stock so my downtravel is almost stock lifted with them.

Untitled by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Tuck one wheel up and see if anything is binding up or if she's reaching full tuck without issues. Also check if RC will give a you a new fresh set of newer struts.
I'd think your issue might be you need a fresh set of struts.

Good luck.

 

[hodge-xj]

OP, Like JB1 said the angle of the CV seems normal for 4” bracket lifts. I’ve often wonder how much uptravel you guys can have considering the CV is already angled up/ reverse of a normal 2-2.5" lift. Technically you have factory travel up/down because you've lifted with brackets as opposed to us who lifted with an adjustable strut or coilover. we tend to loose some downtravel the higher we go and gain uptravel without wanting more sometimes
but what makes you think you need more uptravel ?

Do you have a place where you can tuck one front wheel up ?
I used a boulder in this case but really can be anything that can hold your truck full weight, put her in 4low and climb the obstacle up slowly until you feel your rear tire lifting slighly from the ground. at that point you are at max tuck in the front.
i think you can also use a fork lift if you have access to one.
either way you'll know if the wheel can go all the way up.

This is without front sway bar because i wanted to test the absolute max of the tire/fender on 35's before getting 37's.

Untitled by RAM RSM, on Flickr

and how my CV looks tucked to the max, i'd think the CV could go up a tad more based on how the Cv's look like for those lifting 4" without the brackets putting them in bad angles. So the CV angle should not be the limiting point in your case but if it's it should very apparent once you tuck the wheel up.


Untitled by RAM RSM, on Flickr

This is how the UCA looks like at max tuck, Kings are also 1" longer than stock so my downtravel is almost stock lifted with them.

Untitled by RAM RSM, on Flickr

Tuck one wheel up and see if anything is binding up or if she's reaching full tuck without issues. Also check if RC will give a you a new fresh set of newer struts.
I'd think your issue might be you need a fresh set of struts.

Good luck.

Agree on all accounts, though i think his struts are wiped. Curious to see his measurements when he gets back to his truck...

Side note You're tucked cv is less than his ride height cv....lmao, man these front ends have alot of usable travel with basic bolt ons. Never have I seen ifs be so forgiving in any other application.



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[ram1500rsm]

Agree on all accounts, though i think his struts are wiped. Curious to see his measurements when he gets back to his truck...

Side note You're tucked cv is less than his ride height cv....lmao, man these front ends have alot of usable travel with basic bolt ons. Never have I seen ifs be so forgiving in any other application.



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Likewise, ive' shown my Yotas CV angles at only 2.5" lift and they look like those who have lifted 4" on their RAM's spacers only

Also forgot to mention to the OP about the tire wearing down on the inside.
Do you have your latest alignment sheet ? your tires are driving down the road like this \ / , assuming your truck front is facing towards the RAMforum logo on our website hahaha. Too much Toe out. Ask you aligment dude to put the toe around 0.05* tops on both sides.
Toe in will wear the outsides, toe out will cream the insides. You also have Camber to look at, i don't know if it's the picture angle but it seems the tire is wearing half way from the center towards the inside, if that's is the case, them you have too much negative camber combined wth too much toe out.

 

[hodge-xj]

Any update

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[huntinrod]

I am emailing RC customer service. They requested my measurements front and rear from center of hub to bottom of fender.
They are :
24.5 front
25.25 rear

Waiting to hear back from them.

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[huntinrod]

How do I tell if I have the strut spacers installed?

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[hodge-xj]

I am emailing RC customer service. They requested my measurements front and rear from center of hub to bottom of fender.
They are :
24.5 front
25.25 rear

Waiting to hear back from them.

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Just for reference I just measured mine.

24" front
25" rear

My suspension is a 2.5" front 1.5- 2" rear lift roughly. Being that you're struts are supposedly 4" lift, I can see why your front ride quality sucks. You've sagged to a point you have minimal up travel. The rear is about where I'd expect a 4" for you so should be ok there.

I'd see if you can get everything upgraded together. Be a nice freshening up for the ride of the truck.



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[huntinrod]

Perfect. Thx.

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[hodge-xj]

Perfect. Thx.

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No problem

As for a strut spacer. Look up to the top of the front shock. It will either sit up inside the pocket or you'll see a big metal spacer bolted to the top sticking below the shock mount. It will be obvious if you do. A 4" will have a very big spacer up there.


Stole this off Google. But very much the same for most of them.

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[huntinrod]

I don't think I have that....

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[huntinrod]

Hard to tell but it looks like just the top of the shock goes up into the can.

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[hodge-xj]

Hard to tell but it looks like just the top of the shock goes up into the can.

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Got any more pics of the front setup? It doesn't look like you have a spacer, but that looks like an OEM strut.

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[hodge-xj]

I'm almost %100 sure you have no spacer. And yoir first few pics show what look like the first generation RC shocks. Granted just for clarity a few more pics wouldn't hurt, but judging by your measurements and what I've seen I still stand fast on the opinion that those struts sagged. RC is a great company on alot of things, be stern about the shocks sagging and I'm sure they'll help you out in some way.

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[huntinrod]

The struts were supposed to be the old N2.0 (I think that's what they were called).
But I have no idea if they were installed or not.

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[hodge-xj]

The struts were supposed to be the old N2.0 (I think that's what they were called).
But I have no idea if they were installed or not.

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Looking at the lower collar under the spring and the fact that the shock body is significantly longer than normal shocks I'd say they are the N2.0s. Here's my shocks to compare. Below the coil is much shorter than yours

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[huntinrod]

Rough Country emailed me back and said my ride height and angles were "normal" for a 4" suspension..... Weird

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[hodge-xj]

Rough Country emailed me back and said my ride height and angles were "normal" for a 4" suspension..... Weird

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Interesting. My neighbor has a bone stock 2019 classic for a loaner. I'll go measure his stock numbers give me a few.

Your angles are normal, but that's a pretty general statement. Mine are normal as well, and I'm at 2.5" lift. So it's all relative.

What I'm more concerned with is your static ride height is low in the front. 24.5" is ballpark 3" lift. Considering most box brand lifts level the truck front to rear I'd expect you to be about 1" higher in the front. Doesn't sound like much but 1" of shock stroke is alot when it comes to suspension travel. Lose that 1" and you'll be smacking bump stops and bottoming out regularly.

Can you get a side shot of the entire truck. Curious how ass high it sits.

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[huntinrod]

It sits level but I'll get a pic later

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