Really confused. 2017 HID harness?

[Spud2388]

So I am not new to hid retrofits, wiring, etc. but am confused on what is needed on a 2017 Sport with projector housings. My 14 only required a relay harness with capacitors from TRS. Now it seems they have added 2 resistors to each side on the 15+ models. I have also seen some harness without the resistors. What’s the deal? I already have the relay harness and caps from TRS and some anti-flicker modules I picked up on amazon. They work when I test the lights out but have read they will just off 20 minutes into a trip. Would prefer to not have the plastic melting resistors if there is another option out there, but will pick them up from TRS if that’s what it takes.

 

[MADDOG]

Get in contract with JJ at Retroshop as I know he had to redesign a harness for the newer trucks.

He'll set ya straight and he has what ya need.

 

[joshuaeb09]

I have the newer TRS Mopar harness (Comes with 2 resistor banks) on my '16 and never had any flickering issues, however, I had to add a 2nd capacitor link to the passenger side resistor bank to kill a random bulb out warning on the EVIC. I've also had pretty good luck on other newer Mopars with Hylux 2A88 Canbus ballasts (Have to use the ground lead) without any harnesses, but since I'm running a 50 watt setup in my Retrofits a harness is pretty much required.

That being said I find the resistor solution to be somewhat of a hackjob since you're basically wasting power. I found that the XD PWM modules work 100% of the time for lower current draw such as LED foglights (The XB fogs in my '16 and XD H11's in my '17 Challenger) and I may try their PWM relay harness in the future since it should have a much lower wasted power draw than the TRS resistor setup.

http://www.xenondepot.com/HID-PWM-Fix-p/pwm-fix.htm

 

[zepcom]

I have the newer TRS Mopar harness (Comes with 2 resistor banks) on my '16 and never had any flickering issues, however, I had to add a 2nd capacitor link to the passenger side resistor bank to kill a random bulb out warning on the EVIC. I've also had pretty good luck on other newer Mopars with Hylux 2A88 Canbus ballasts (Have to use the ground lead) without any harnesses, but since I'm running a 50 watt setup in my Retrofits a harness is pretty much required.

That being said I find the resistor solution to be somewhat of a hackjob since you're basically wasting power. I found that the XD PWM modules work 100% of the time for lower current draw such as LED foglights (The XB fogs in my '16 and XD H11's in my '17 Challenger) and I may try their PWM relay harness in the future since it should have a much lower wasted power draw than the TRS resistor setup.

http://www.xenondepot.com/HID-PWM-Fix-p/pwm-fix.htm

Hey Joshua,

Do you have more info or a part number doe the “capacitor link to the passenger side resister bank to kill a random bulb out warning”?

I have a ddm kit with a 9005 relay harness on my 2017 but the harness only has the “trigger” on the left headlight and I am constantly getting the warning “right side headlight out”.

I tried a set of 9005 resisters but those did not solve the error from coming up. What is this capacitor and how does it plug into the right side oem bulb socket to prevent the warning message?

Thank you in advance!!

—zepcom


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JB1]

Hey Joshua,

Do you have more info or a part number doe the “capacitor link to the passenger side resister bank to kill a random bulb out warning”?

I have a ddm kit with a 9005 relay harness on my 2017 but the harness only has the “trigger” on the left headlight and I am constantly getting the warning “right side headlight out”.

I tried a set of 9005 resisters but those did not solve the error from coming up. What is this capacitor and how does it plug into the right side oem bulb socket to prevent the warning message?

Thank you in advance!!

—zepcom


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is an old thread, get alfaobd and you wont need any relays or resistors.

 

[joshuaeb09]

This is an old thread, get alfaobd and you wont need any relays or resistors.

This 100%. A while back I ripped all the relay packs out and drive my Hylux 2A88's right off the stock outputs for my retros. Same for my high beam LED reflectors and my led fogs. Even with AlfaODB I would be weary of driving anything with a high startup amperage via the TIPM which is why I stick with 2A88's for my balasts.

 

[zepcom]

Thank you guys... I had set the Alpha settings (I thought) properly, since I already have an alfa. But I still got the occasional "passenger side headlight out" on startup. I reviewed the alfa settings from that huge alfa thread and maybe it was the relay harness that I used, it's trigger wire was only the left side of the truck.
Luckily Jeremy from RetroShop helped me out and after I added a set of 4 resisters to the passenger side, I'm happy to report that I have no more errors on the dash when the truck starts up.

 

[Gixxer750]

So I am not new to hid retrofits, wiring, etc. but am confused on what is needed on a 2017 Sport with projector housings. My 14 only required a relay harness with capacitors from TRS. Now it seems they have added 2 resistors to each side on the 15+ models. I have also seen some harness without the resistors. What’s the deal? I already have the relay harness and caps from TRS and some anti-flicker modules I picked up on amazon. They work when I test the lights out but have read they will just off 20 minutes into a trip. Would prefer to not have the plastic melting resistors if there is another option out there, but will pick them up from TRS if that’s what it takes.

Nothing. All the truck needs is 2 ballasts/ignitors, 2 HID lamps, alfaobd settings(enable HID and Bi xenon set target voltage to low beams to 13v left and right, disable headlights on approach for longevity of kit, not turning on every time you unlock or open the door etc and , done

 

[Gixxer750]

Thank you guys... I had set the Alpha settings (I thought) properly, since I already have an alfa. But I still got the occasional "passenger side headlight out" on startup. I reviewed the alfa settings from that huge alfa thread and maybe it was the relay harness that I used, it's trigger wire was only the left side of the truck.
Luckily Jeremy from RetroShop helped me out and after I added a set of 4 resisters to the passenger side, I'm happy to report that I have no more errors on the dash when the truck starts up.

So much garbage and believe it or not, the HID is more efficient than your halogen. All you need to do is guarantee a steady voltage (target voltage in alfa bcm settings) and your g2g and throw all that extra junk in the trash. I bought into the ecu, bcm, tipm issues long enough to remember im an electrician, i know how ballasts work, the error cancellors are fixing resistor issues and vice versa. If anything the system would need capacitors, not switch and line current blockers with "error cancellors" BTW what exactly is this magical little black box and how does an error cancellor cancel errors. What if bulb really is out?