Rough idle running rich

[98ramss/t]

Just recently i swapped out the kegger intake manifold with the hughes air gap. I changed the o2 sensor (NTK from dodge dealer), spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor when i did the intake. I also had to get a new coolant temp sensor (napa) because the old one broke. The problem is that the engine will not idle properly, it runs rich and i can smell it from the exhaust. It has a cylinder 2 and 4 misfire and sometimes a p0133 (bank 1/sensor 1 slow response) code pops up. I have checked the wiring to the o2 sensor and i can't find any problems. I ordered msd 8.5mm super conductors and i'll be installing them when they arrive. I'm thinking about buying a new cap and rotor as well. I used standard blue streak cap and rotor with brass contacts but i don't know if its any good. I put in champion copper plugs gapped at 0.040 but i'm thinking i'm going to try ngk plugs. I checked the injectors and they are all at 12.2 ohms. I moved the intake air temp sensor into the air cleaner pipe, could this be causing it to run rich? All the spark plugs except cylinder 5 and 7 were covered in black soot. Any ideas on what else to check? Thanks

 

[dapepper9]

The sensor in tune intake tube could possibly affect it i would think. Cold dense air has more oxygen than warm air. Maybe you threw the computer off and it thinks more oxygen is going in? Idk just spitballin

 

[98ramss/t]

I just realized i should have put this thread in the engine and performance. If it is possible to have it moved that'd be great. I was thinking the same thing about the iat sensor. But many people relocate it to the air cleaner tube and people with the k&n cold air put it in the tube with the hughes air gap. Im thinking my ignition isn't working properly, because 6 out of 8 plugs are covered in soot, but i don't know

 

[dodge dude94]

Make sure your wires are in the right order and check compression

 

[ADudeOnSkis]

Check and recheck wires. If you're waiting in the 8.5mm wires then I would hold off on worrying until they're in, and MAKE SURE they are on the right terminals/plugs. I just switched to Taylor 8mm wires (I'm broke) and it made a BIG difference in idle.

 

[98ramss/t]

I have been holding off until i get the wires. I found i have a coolant leak at the heater hose pipe where it connects to the waterpump. The o ring is around the pipe but it isn't in the hole. Looks like someone had the pipe out at one time and couldn't get the o ring to fit in the hole properly so the put rtv around. Seemed to hold up fine until the pipe was moved. Also i was swapping injectors around and after i put it back together and fired it up, number 5 injector was spraying fuel out of the top where it connects to the rail. So i need to pickup some o rings and get my plug wires. The truck seems to idle decent until it warms up a bit, then it starts to idle rough. I unplugged the o2 sensor and it didnt change anything. The o2 sensor fuse is good. Im positive i have the wires in the proper places, i put the new ones on exactly how the old one came off. I thought maybe i had cylinder 2 and 4 mixed up so i changed them around and it didnt like that. I checked the injectors with a multi meter and they are all at 12.2 ohms. I'm going to do a compression test but i need a new gauge. I might get a noid light for the injectors. It runs good when cruising and at WOT it pulls much better than the kegger manifold. Can i check the o2 sensor wiring with a multimeter (volts, ohms, etc.)? Thanks everyone

 

[dapepper9]

Is it b possible for the iac to cause it to run rich if it's bad? If it's really rich could that possibly cause a misfire?

Regarding your injector spraying fuel, i fought injector leaks upon reinstall all the 3 times the intake had been off. I just had to *** em set just right in the bungs and tighten the bokts down. Not too much or they'd leak, too little they'd leak. It was actually a major pain in the ass. That was with brand new orings

 

[98ramss/t]

I would think it possible for it too run rich if the iac was stuck closed, i cleaned the throttle body and iac, but i have to get a new gasket for it.

Are the injector o rings reusable or one time use? I'd think if the weren't split or broken they could be reused.

I received my spark plug wires in the mail and installed them, and i bought a new compression gauge today. I need to fix the coolant leak and that injector before i can do the test.

Also do i need to route the 8.5mm plug wires as it says to in the tsb?

 

[dapepper9]

I would think it possible for it too run rich if the iac was stuck closed, i cleaned the throttle body and iac, but i have to get a new gasket for it.

Are the injector o rings reusable or one time use? I'd think if the weren't split or broken they could be reused.

I received my spark plug wires in the mail and installed them, and i bought a new compression gauge today. I need to fix the coolant leak and that injector before i can do the test.

Also do i need to route the 8.5mm plug wires as it says to in the tsb?

Generally it's a good idea to use new gaskets but orings are different. If they are still round, no nicks or cuts or anything go ahead just lube em with oil first. By round i mean absolutely no squish.

We use virtually the same thing on the Jets at work and reuse em all the time. If they're not misformed or damaged they'll be perfectly fine to reuse.

 

[98ramss/t]

I got my truck back together. I ended up replacing the heater hose pipe. I changed the o rings on the injectors too. I took it for a drive an there is no more misfire codes, but there is a p0132 and p0138 codes. Its running really rich too. It wants to stall when i slow down for an intersection. I did a compression test to

Cyl 1 - 160 dry 170 wet
Cyl 2 - 160 dry 165 wet
Cyl 3 - 165 dry 173 wet
Cyl 4 - 145 dry 155 wet
Cyl 5 - 158 dry 160 wet
Cyl 6 - 150 dry 158 wet
Cyl 7 - 153 dry 158 wet
Cyl 8 - 160 dry 165 wet

I'm a little concerned with cyl 4. Its a little over 10% difference. I don't think this would cause the engine to run rich. Does anyone know how to test the o2 sensor and the wires going to it. I already tried unplugging it and it didnt make a difference. Thanks

 

[98ramss/t]

Nobody?

 

[dapepper9]

Sorry missed last reply.

Which 02 did you unplug?

 

[98ramss/t]

No problem. I unplugged the front o2. Its idling and running fine until it warms up. I'd say around the time it goes into closed loop. Which is why i was thinking o2 sensor but i've tried 2 different one. The most recent o2 sensor is from the local dodge dealer. I have a factory service manual but i can't find anything about what i should see on a multi meter

 

[98ramss/t]

double post

 

[dapepper9]

Just reread everything. How's it drive? Have you tried simply installing new IAC?

 

[98ramss/t]

Above idle it seems to run pretty good. It'll wind out past 5000 rpm and pull strong the whole way, ( i only did that once). I haven't tried installing a new iac. Is there a way to test it? I don't want to just throw parts at it hoping something fixes it. That gets expensive really quick

 

[dapepper9]

Above idle it seems to run pretty good. It'll wind out past 5000 rpm and pull strong the whole way, ( i only did that once). I haven't tried installing a new iac. Is there a way to test it? I don't want to just throw parts at it hoping something fixes it. That gets expensive really quick

Well if it was a fuel or spark issue you'd notice it while driving too. Sounds like IAC is probably the issue

 

[98ramss/t]

Should i buy an iac from the dealer or napa. I'd imagine napa is cheaper but if they are no good i won't bother. O2 sensor was 3 times the price at dealer

 

[dapepper9]

Can get it from either. Dealer will be more expensive but much less likely to fail vs napa will be cheaper but more likely to fail again.

What you can do is get the napa, put it in, and if it fixes your issue, take it back claiming it didn't fix your issue. Then get the more reliable dealer part. Cheaper way of checking it in case iac isn't correct

 

[98ramss/t]

Is there anyway to test the iac. I have a multimeter. I'd like to verify that it isnt working before i replace it. Most part stores around here don't take returns on electrical parts