Someone good with diagnostics, your help is needed

[Nicholas Cove]

TIPM

 

[RamDiver]

Battery was good,

Was the battery load tested?

.

 

[seanclark1503]

I bought the technical manual cd rom for my ‘08 Ram for $30 off eBay . It’s the book that techs use at dealerships. It has been a great read but it always references the scanner they use for many of their troubleshooting tasks and how step by step with electrical values and their acceptable ranges of ohms or volts if they are applicable to the system. It run through acrobat pdf. And can be printed from .

 

[seanclark1503]

My trans shifter block, or
(trans. Range sensor) had similar symptoms and it slowly and gradually became less and less effective but if I could shift into drive , it would be fine for the duration of the trip UNLESS I forgot it was ***** and shifted to park. Then it was a hit or miss to either be in limp 4th or normal operation. This was a 68 rfe and I got the part at autozone for $278 . The online parts were the same price range but their fittment charts were not accurate. You need the same color plastic as is in the truck now . It must match the color of the plug it will connect to. Not a difficult job, just take note of the screws (bolts) locations usually have marks on the valve body to prevent the installation of a bolt into a hole that is not used . That’s the only thing that makes it difficult besides the fact that you mustn’t drop the valve body on its way in or out and that thing is not as light as it looks and is SLIPPERY as a a pig in a mud bath. I used a plastic pan to catch fluid after the normal drainage and it elevated the valve body to allow my arms to rest in between lifting and removing it.

 

[DizzyFranco]

@RamDiver yea bud, my battery passed the load test. I got it checked at a local battery shop "lee's batteries". Actually my beighbor across the street from my work (small biz)

@seanclark1503 damn I gotta look into getting me one of those for my gen truck. I don't really like the repair book I have. It's a Chilton. I usually buy the other known brand, Hayne's I believe... i prefer it but the one you speak of, i gotta try.

Anyway, so you replaced the solenoid and everything good now? How long ago was this?
Thanks for the valuable input on replacing that. Definitely helps to know more about what to expect.

so what I plan on doing is checking that the tcm and solenoid are receiving the right amount of Voltage. Hopefully one of them is not and then i can assume the problem is electrical.

However if theres no problem there, I think I will just do a trans oil change with new filter, solenoid (ouch) and tcm and hope for the best ? im scared

 

[DizzyFranco]

@Jeepwalker Hmmm very interesting... didnt know scan tools did all that... i do have a buddy whos a mechanic and probably has the tool. I'll hit him up thanks man

 

[DizzyFranco]

So I checked for the codes right now and I'm getting p0750 and P0935, which is a line pressure sensor circuit, voltage high. I don't know where that is. Or how to find it. But those are the only 2 codes showing now, which is good, if anyone has any ideas, let me know.
The only thing I've done to it so far is clean the grounds and check the battery, inspect all wiring, checked the connectors for the TCM and the solenoid. I unplugged them and cleaned the connectors good. Made sure everything was clean and tight. still went into limp mode on my way home from work. But like i said, Only 2 codes showing up right now as pending. The 750 n the 935.
According to some site, it could be a bad line sensor, bad line sensor wiring, or a bad pcm/tcm.

P0750 LR Solenoid Circuit.
Based on these 2 codes is the answer still between bad wiring and the sensors? Or is it more obvious or clear than that?

 

[NETim]

https://www.troublecodes.net/pcodes/p0935/

 

[RamDiver]

@RamDiver yea bud, my battery passed the load test. I got it checked at a local battery shop "lee's batteries". Actually my beighbor across the street from my work (small biz)

@seanclark1503 damn I gotta look into getting me one of those for my gen truck. I don't really like the repair book I have. It's a Chilton. I usually buy the other known brand, Hayne's I believe... i prefer it but the one you speak of, i gotta try.

Anyway, so you replaced the solenoid and everything good now? How long ago was this?
Thanks for the valuable input on replacing that. Definitely helps to know more about what to expect.

so what I plan on doing is checking that the tcm and solenoid are receiving the right amount of Voltage. Hopefully one of them is not and then i can assume the problem is electrical.

However if theres no problem there, I think I will just do a trans oil change with new filter, solenoid (ouch) and tcm and hope for the best ? im scared

Thanks.

We've all played this game a few times and regardless of the statement, "the battery is good", until we hear that it has been load tested, it remains an unknown variable.

AFAIK, the 2013-2016 Ram 1500 service manual should be sufficient for a 2012.

Check the link below for for a pdf version compliments of @DILLIGAF.
Thanks again, Ian.

Pdf service manual

Has anyone found a 4th generation service manual in a PDF format? If so can you please share the link? I can't get the McFall one to work on my phone. Thanks!

www.ramforum.com

.

 

[DizzyFranco]

Sorry i've been so slow at getting to work on my truck. Which by the way I have still been driving. I know, i'm terrible. Im gonna ruin my trans if i havent already.
Yes, battery was load tested and @RamDiver
Also this reminded me that i did replace the battery less than a year ago.
I also have a new theory based on what ive been reading on the mopar website. Says these solenoids can go bad with too much heat. And 6 months ago i had a bad case of overheating. Even caused a head gasket leak. I repaired that and all but i think as a consequence, my solenoid went bad.... idk why it took so long to start acting up, so thats the only hole in my theory so far unless you wanna poke some more holes.

So at this point im just saving up to buy the solenoid. Its 600 minus 300 for the core. I guess when i have the cash i will remove mine to see what color it is and find the match replacement.

And everything else i checked was good btw. Wiring good... etc.

Btw @Ludville1 any update? Hows ur truck?

 

[Ludville1]

Sorry i've been so slow at getting to work on my truck. Which by the way I have still been driving. I know, i'm terrible. Im gonna ruin my trans if i havent already.
Yes, battery was load tested and @RamDiver
Also this reminded me that i did replace the battery less than a year ago.
I also have a new theory based on what ive been reading on the mopar website. Says these solenoids can go bad with too much heat. And 6 months ago i had a bad case of overheating. Even caused a head gasket leak. I repaired that and all but i think as a consequence, my solenoid went bad.... idk why it took so long to start acting up, so thats the only hole in my theory so far unless you wanna poke some more holes.

So at this point im just saving up to buy the solenoid. Its 600 minus 300 for the core. I guess when i have the cash i will remove mine to see what color it is and find the match replacement.

And everything else i checked was good btw. Wiring good... etc.

Btw @Ludville1 any update? Hows ur truck?

I put my truck away for the Winter on December 1st, so no update. I will look to get it repaired in the Spring, and unfortunately, probably bring it to a shop for repair. Please let us know your exact diagnosis and repair. Cost etc., if you don't mind. Thanks!

 

[DizzyFranco]

Hey @Ludville1
Aww poor trucky truck... its gonna be sad for xmas .. no drivin around ... but it's probably a much needed break. I bet mine wished I did the same as you.
Anyway, im actually about to start on it. I believe i saw somewhere someone said to lift the rear, not the front for trans oil drain? Anyone know if thats right. Im gonna check the other threads right now but anywho, I thought about making a video of the process... or maybe just the main parts...
Anyway I found a solenoid at o'reilleys
300.
So $400 plus tax total spenditures.

PS after i attached the files (2) only one picture worked, the other did not but it did cut my text in half. Maybe i wrote too much. But it was all just minor details. Too lazy to retype and even remember what i said. Well i gtget to work.

 

[Ludville1]

Hey @Ludville1
Aww poor trucky truck... its gonna be sad for xmas .. no drivin around ... but it's probably a much needed break. I bet mine wished I did the same as you.
Anyway, im actually about to start on it. I believe i saw somewhere someone said to lift the rear, not the front for trans oil drain? Anyone know if thats right. Im gonna check the other threads right now but anywho, I thought about making a video of the process... or maybe just the main parts...
Anyway I found a solenoid at o'reilleys
300.
So $400 plus tax total spenditures.

PS after i attached the files (2) only one picture worked, the other did not but it did cut my text in half. Maybe i wrote too much. But it was all just minor details. Too lazy to retype and even remember what i said. Well i gtget to work.

Actually, I was looking for this thread to respond to, but couldn't find it. I posted on my original post in the Engine & Performance topics about my truck "Transmission Stuck in 4th gear", read it when you get a chance. I did the repairs on Saturday.

 

[DizzyFranco]

Hey guys, so I replaced the solenoid in my transmission,
But i must've messed something up. When i finished, I turned the key and Nothing. All the letters on the P R N D are lit up, all green except the R is red. It was acting as if it were in gear and therefore unable to start. When i pushed the brake i was able to move the shifter out of the P position, but it feels disengaged, like there is nothing attached to it inside the trans. I checked the cable and its good, the problem must be inside the trans.
(BY THE WAY, shifter slides smoothly through neutral and drive, I dont feel any grooves or slots). I disconnected the battery to reset computer maybe. I returned the next day, AND now its stuck I cant pull it out of Park even with brake pressed. anyone have any clue as to what may have gone wrong?

When i install the valve body am supposed to reconnect anything or just bolt it back in? I know the electrical connector is connected, but besides that?

Any help is appreciated thanks!

 

[DizzyFranco]

I made a video of the different issues i'm having right now.
The only thing i think it means so far is that I didnt add enough transmission fluid, so thats causing the transmission to not shift. And the other issues which are all electrical i think.... well they must be due to a bad battery cause I did use the outlets a few times while i was working on the truck without driving it. Also, the pan was off my truck for about 4 days, so it drained out almost entirely. I also used compressed air on the trans while the valve body was off to replace solenoid. That helped me get more fluid out of it. So on an empty transmission, how much fluid is needed to get it to shift? And how much fluid does it contain in all? I dont want to add too much, but if my truck doesnt start, i cant really check the fluid level. Another thing, I mightve moved the shift lever while the solenoid was out, did this cause a problem. ?

2012 RAM 1500 Express 5.7L 65RFE transmission

transmission / gears issue after replacing Transmission Solenoid and transmission fluid / filters

youtu.be

Thanks in advance

 

[DizzyFranco]

Hey @Burla I need some help! Could you take a look at my pictures and let me know what u think? I followed your advice blindly, i got the white connector solenoid pack. But now that i installed everything and it wont start, i'm thinkin its the wrong one? My connector from the truck looks grey, the old one looks yellowish, and the new one looks white. Should i take it back and *** grey?
Anyone with more info please help me

In the picture you see on bottom left, the new solenoid pack connector, installed. The old part I took off, in the middle. And the harness connector which clearly is grey.

My truck wont start because it says im in 1st gear, and mines automatic trans. Shifter feels way loose and disconnected.


@here

 

[Burla]

Hey @Burla I need some help! Could you take a look at my pictures and let me know what u think? I followed your advice blindly, i got the white connector solenoid pack. But now that i installed everything and it wont start, i'm thinkin its the wrong one? My connector from the truck looks grey, the old one looks yellowish, and the new one looks white. Should i take it back and *** grey?
Anyone with more info please help me

In the picture you see on bottom left, the new solenoid pack connector, installed. The old part I took off, in the middle. And the harness connector which clearly is grey.

My truck wont start because it says im in 1st gear, and mines automatic trans. Shifter feels way loose and disconnected.


@here

white solenoid universal...
with early 4 gens grey has been a fitament issue in many of them, the usual sypmtom is being left in limp mode cant go past 4th gear, why most trans shops generally use white as reported.

 

[Burla]

So most likely your linkage in the trans is not matching the position of your solenoid. Your linkage is probably in park? But your sensor plate is in first. If you spend anytime in the linkage pm me there is a glaring weakness that also should be fixed.

It looks like 2012 was the first year you need a trs plate, but you can research it yourself grey solenoids issues are many fold, especially with aftermaket valve bodies that were built with wrong check balls, happened so many times here I lost count.

 

[DizzyFranco]

So most likely your linkage in the trans is not matching the position of your solenoid. Your linkage is probably in park? But your sensor plate is in first. If you spend anytime in the linkage pm me there is a glaring weakness that also should be fixed.

It looks like 2012 was the first year you need a trs plate, but you can research it yourself grey solenoids issues are many fold, especially with aftermaket valve bodies that were built with wrong check balls, happened so many times here I lost count.

Hey @Burla @Ludville1 Good News!
My truck just started!! I am going to idle and get the fluid level just right before test drive.
So, what happened was it was the wrong solenoid for me. My old one had a white connector, so I figured that was the way to go. After taking a closer look, I learned that the white ones have 25 terminals on the connector, and the grey ones have 23.
So I counted the terminals on my old one and behold, it had 23! So.... wowww.... connector was white, but supposed to be grey, go figure. So I exchanged it, big price diff
.. this one was $515
But that should fix all my issues! I hope. So far so good, she fired up well and sounds good so far.

Thanks guys for the help!

 

[Ludville1]

Hey @Burla @Ludville1 Good News!
My truck just started!! I am going to idle and get the fluid level just right before test drive.
So, what happened was it was the wrong solenoid for me. My old one had a white connector, so I figured that was the way to go. After taking a closer look, I learned that the white ones have 25 terminals on the connector, and the grey ones have 23.
So I counted the terminals on my old one and behold, it had 23! So.... wowww.... connector was white, but supposed to be grey, go figure. So I exchanged it, big price diff
.. this one was $515
But that should fix all my issues! I hope. So far so good, she fired up well and sounds good so far.

Thanks guys for the help!

That is good to hear, hopefully smooth sailing here on out!