Starting Conundrum

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Aurelius

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2011 Ram 1500 with 5.7 L V-8
Mileage = 60, 125

Very well maintained and has, up til now, never had an engine issue & has always started instantly until:

Went to start & when it didn't start & I let the key go, the starter continued to engage until I turned the key to the off position. Right away, I tried again & she started normally & ran like-new.

My battery was over a year out of warranty; so, I immediately bought a new one. After installing new battery, things seemed fine for a few starts. I had the old battery tested and according to the technician, she's at 12.6 &, as best he could tell, is like new. So, I now have a spare battery,

So, I then replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor & I now have a spare Crankshaft Sensor.

The next suspect was the solenoid. Since the solenoid is built into the starter, I replaced the starter. Again, I thought that I had it licked, but I now have a spare starter.

Did a relay bypass of the starter relay. Started just like new for a few starts. Then, the next day, didn't start. Starter worked as normal, but no ignition after several tries. They put ethanol in our gas around here & when I got out of the cab & walked towards the front of the truck, I could smell ethonol. I tried again a few minutes later & started like-new & runs like a top.

Any ideas?

If I get her restarted, I'm headed over to O'reilly's to see if I get any codes.

Any help is much appreciated. This has been fun up until now, but I'd like to get this fixed sooner rather than later.
 
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Aurelius

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OK, Won't start now; maybe later. So, I can't read the codes. Just to recap:
Starter turns over. When I release the key & it falls into the on position, the starter continues to turn over. When I turn the key to the off position, the starter stops turning over.

Can it be the fuel pump? As I mentioned before, when she does start, she runs like-new. Sounds electrical to me, but obviously I don't know what I'm doing.

Your help will be much appreciated. Thanks.
 

Marshall

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guess you like buying parts, I am that way with tools.
the starter is suppose to act like that ,you don't need to hold the key on. it will spin still it starts.
Check fuel pump, low mileage but it could be not always starting to pump.
I can't hear mine running but I can't hear my wife either, but most can I think
 

Burla

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Win module is what you put the key into. You can bypass it, likely solve the issue, for sure diagnose if it was issue. Make sure you put it in relay that is only hot with key.

 
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Aurelius

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I guess that she has always started so readily that I didn't notice that the starter stays engagrd until she starts. What is the easiest way to test the WIN module?
 

Marshall

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BTW , if you hold the gas peddle to the floor when trying to start, that will also cut off the fuel pump.
good way to get oil pressure before starting if you changed oil or worked on the motor.

I have never had to mess with my win mod. a pressure gauge on the fuel rail would be handy in this case to see if you have fuel pressure or not.
 

Burla

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In case your googly skills are absent...

If your vehicle's starter keeps spinning after the engine starts, it often indicates a problem with the starter solenoid or the electrical system, possibly a faulty WIN module, and could lead to damage if not addressed.

Here's a breakdown of potential causes and steps to troubleshoot:


Possible Causes:
  • Faulty Starter Solenoid:
    The solenoid is responsible for engaging the starter motor, and a sticking or failing solenoid can cause the starter to continue running.

  • Corroded or Damaged Wiring:
    Check the positive and negative cables to the starter for corrosion, damage, or loose connections.

  • Weak or Failing Battery:
    A weak battery might not provide enough power to cut off the starter after the engine starts.

  • Bad Ground Connection:
    Ensure the starter has a good ground connection to the negative battery terminal.

  • Faulty WIN Module (Vehicle Integrated Network):
    In some vehicles, the WIN module plays a role in starting and stopping the engine, and a malfunction could cause the starter to spin continuously.

  • Starter Motor Issues:
    The starter motor itself could be failing, causing it to spin continuously even after the engine is running.


Troubleshooting Steps:
  1. Check Connections: Inspect all connections to the starter, solenoid, and battery terminals for corrosion, damage, or looseness.

  2. Test Battery Voltage: Ensure the battery is fully charged and can deliver sufficient voltage.

  3. Voltage Drop Test: Perform a voltage drop test on the positive and negative cables to the starter to check for any voltage loss.

  4. Inspect Starter Solenoid: Examine the solenoid for any signs of damage or corrosion.

  5. Check for WIN Module Issues: If your vehicle has a WIN module, check for any error codes or communication problems with the module.

  6. Test Starter Motor: If the problem persists, the starter motor itself might need to be tested or replaced.
 

Burla

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Code reader wont work on Win most of the time. Win is expensive, plus reprogramming it is. Try the bypass, anyone can do it. If it is win and you don't want to pay the freight, you can clean them, check your googly and YouTube for how. What happened it is like a stator motor, everytime you turn key it spins and you have a contact patch, well that patch gums up or carbons up and all you need to do is sand it= like new. The hardest part is knowing soder. Bypass can work indefinitely until you fix it, you can hide push button under dash, all you have to do is use 12v relay that is hot with key.
 
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Aurelius

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Thanks, Burla. Will spend some time studying what you have so kindly provided; thank you.

Code reader picked up nothing as you suggested it might. I guess the question is: What does having no codes elinminate.

It sounds like Burla's initial idea is the most likely.

You mentioned "push button" As far as I know, I don't have a push button?
 
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Aurelius

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Forgot to mention:

I have the simplest truck I could get with the 5.7 (Tradesman). I don't have automatic door locks and I use a key to open doors and start engine. So, do I have a WIN Module since I use a key & don't have a remote? Thanks.
 

Wild one

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Forgot to mention:

I have the simplest truck I could get with the 5.7 (Tradesman). I don't have automatic door locks and I use a key to open doors and start engine. So, do I have a WIN Module since I use a key & don't have a remote? Thanks.
There's a couple video's in this thread on repairing the win module,if that's your issue

 

Burla

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Thanks, Burla. Will spend some time studying what you have so kindly provided; thank you.

Code reader picked up nothing as you suggested it might. I guess the question is: What does having no codes elinminate.

It sounds like Burla's initial idea is the most likely.

You mentioned "push button" As far as I know, I don't have a push button?
You have to watch the video. something like this

The "obd2" for lack of better words, thinks you still have your hand on the key, or in other situations "thinks" you turned off the car when those contacts break contact. There is no sensor for that. I have seen many ignition issues on ram forum, I cant remember even seeing a code for a win modules.
 
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Aurelius

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I have been busy working on the honey do list & haven't done much research. However, I did see that "key identification" could be a variable. So, I rushed out with the spare key & she started normally 3 times; I had almost started to rejoice when I decided to use the main key & yep, you guessed it, she starts normally with that one too. So, it doesn't sound like a damaged key.

I think what you are suggesting as a "temporary fix" is akin to the old "hot wire" with a push button to make it more permanent? I like the idea of cleaning the WIN Module. If I take it out, could I use the "hot wire" while I have the WIN Module out?

Thankfully, I don't need to use the truck, but I would like it to be available.
 
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