Stock Positive Battery Connection

[RedPhase]

Does anyone still have the stock-positive battery connection for their truck? I am trying to diagnose a voltage issue from the battery to the TIPM. I bought my used 2012 truck in 2021 and the current positive connection has a two-wire splice into a single one. I am not sure if that is stock from the factory. I have had issues with starting the truck since I bought it and trying to locate the problem starting from the battery (It is charged to 12V). The two photos show the connection. Also, what is the voltage supposed to read at the TIPM if the truck is not running?

 

[chopperman1]

That is not a stock cable, there should not be an ring terminal on the bolt. Factory is multiple wires in to the lug connector. Voltage at the TIPM should be same as battery, there is a direct connection from the battery to it.

 

[turkeybird56]

That is not a stock cable, there should not be an ring terminal on the bolt. Factory is multiple wires in to the lug connector. Voltage at the TIPM should be same as battery, there is a direct connection from the battery to it.

Somebody had some aftermarket or other items hooked in there sometimes in the past with powering direct off of battery, IMHO...

 

[RedPhase]

That is not a stock cable, there should not be an ring terminal on the bolt. Factory is multiple wires in to the lug connector. Voltage at the TIPM should be same as battery, there is a direct connection from the battery to it.

Thank you for that information. When I tested the voltage at the terminal on the TIPM, I got about 3 volts. I am going to unwrap the wire from the wire loom and examine it. There are two wires that go to the TIPM terminal. I have had the truck at a shop and the dealer for the starting/no power issue. It is starting to get expensive. I am trying to see if it is an old-fashioned electrical issue and not some fancy module that requires a diagnostic fee and special software.

 

[Wild one]

Thank you for that information. When I tested the voltage at the terminal on the TIPM, I got about 3 volts. I am going to unwrap the wire from the wire loom and examine it. There are two wires that go to the TIPM terminal. I have had the truck at a shop and the dealer for the starting/no power issue. It is starting to get expensive. I am trying to see if it is an old-fashioned electrical issue and not some fancy module that requires a diagnostic fee and special software.

Also another thing might be your battery.If all you're getting is 12 volts across the posts using a multi-meter,your battery is basically junk.A good battery should read at a mininium 12.6 volts across the terminals,at 12 volts your battery is techinically dead. There's 6 cells in a 12 volt battery,and if they're all good,they should each put out between 2.1 and 2.2 volts each,giving you a total of 12.6 volts or slightly more with a good battery

 

[Jeepwalker]

Also, since you're from Maine ...quadruple-check your tk's grounds. There's a major ground on mine (also a 2012) above the driver's F. tire, behind a plastic door on the inner fender liner. Mine was very rusty. Check that. And another major ground back by the fuel filler neck (inside of the box). Check that too. But especially the one in the front. And the engine and body grounds.

Yeah, do a load test on your battery. Mine measured good volts one time. It looked real good after sitting on the charger, but spectacularly failed a load test. Take it to a place which sells batteries, they can load-test it. Or get a cheap H/F TESTER. I use my HF Load Tester a lot. Esp if you maintain multiple vehicles.

Also ...there have been a couple forum members from salt-belt-states who have experienced terrible corrosion with the connectors which plug into the TIPM. So much so they had made numerous repairs and were looking for a factory replacement connector and pins. If everything else looks good, you might want to actually remove the TIPM and inspect the terminals on the connector side carefully.

 

[GTyankee]

2009 Dodge Ram


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[RedPhase]

Also another thing might be your battery.If all you're getting is 12 volts across the posts using a multi-meter,your battery is basically junk.A good battery should read at a mininium 12.6 volts across the terminals,at 12 volts your battery is techinically dead. There's 6 cells in a 12 volt battery,and if they're all good,they should each put out between 2.1 and 2.2 volts each,giving you a total of 12.6 volts or slightly more with a good battery

I am getting 12.48 volts on the battery and a fluctuating voltage at the TIPM terminal. Sometimes it is 12.48 and other times it changes. I cleaned off the terminals and connectors and that didn't change anything. The big silver fuse in the TIPM for the ignition and Accessory isn't blown. I will try a different battery from my other pickup and determine what I get. I have floor body work to finish and then I am putting the driver's seat back in the truck. I'll be calling a local shop in my town to come tow it from my yard next week and have a look at it. The owner of the shop drives a Ram and I am hoping he may have some experience with working on them. It will be going up for sale after that regardless of running condition. Too many wires, modules, and other gremlins for a truck that looks great on the outside but is a nightmare to own and operate. I can't watch any more RAM videos on YouTube because it seems like you need special software and training as a modern mechanic to DIY fix them. Thanks for your help.

 

[Jeepwalker]

I hear what yer saying. Electronics get worse after 2012..

Look for a decent southern Gen2 Ram 4x4, or 90's era GM OBS truck. Both are bullet-proof ...and not gargantian! And they look cool. Cheap to insure and repair. Then get them properly undercoated or have your local mechanic guy spray oil all over the place underneath and around the body panels/doors/tailgate, etc. It works. I know ...I have an older Land Rover that's well 'undercoated'. Frame is like new.

 

[RedPhase]

I am getting 12.48 volts on the battery and a fluctuating voltage at the TIPM terminal. Sometimes it is 12.48 and other times it changes. I cleaned off the terminals and connectors and that didn't change anything. The big silver fuse in the TIPM for the ignition and Accessory isn't blown. I will try a different battery from my other pickup and determine what I get. I have floor body work to finish and then I am putting the driver's seat back in the truck. I'll be calling a local shop in my town to come tow it from my yard next week and have a look at it. The owner of the shop drives a Ram and I am hoping he may have some experience with working on them. It will be going up for sale after that regardless of running condition. Too many wires, modules, and other gremlins for a truck that looks great on the outside but is a nightmare to own and operate. I can't watch any more RAM videos on YouTube because it seems like you need special software and training as a modern mechanic to DIY fix them. Thanks for your help.

Yesterday, I took the battery to a local repair shop that has worked on the truck before and it tested as a good battery with 12.6 volts. My other battery only measured 11.57 volts which is enough to start my Ford Superduty. Also, I have lights and flashers on the Ram. Cleaned and tightened the connectors but the no power to the gauges or crank from the switch is still there. Thanks again for the help, I am going to finish the floor project and follow my plan to have it towed to another shop for a diagnosis and have them check the engine wiring, etc. I can also move the shifter without the key in the ignition. I wish there was a way to bypass all of the electronic stuff and just wire it simply like a 70s or 80s-era pickup. It will be going up for sale as a parts truck as I don't trust it or RAM engineering anymore. My advice to anyone regarding buying a used Ram is not to buy one that is a municipal/town truck.

 

[Jeepwalker]

I hear your pain. All new vehicles are full of electronics. They work great (generally) when new and for a time after that. When electronics get flaky they get real expensive. Add to that ...Salt exposure will eventually reek havoc on most electronics given enough time/exposure. Yeah it's a pain...I hear ya.

I would ask your shop to 1) ensure the grounds are top notch. Even those hidden grounds I mentioned. 2) Inspect the relays & fuses and ensure they're good. 3) Then Rule out the WIN module ...which is the module behind the key, a common source of start problems ..is good. Then 4) I'd probably inspect the TIPM connectors to verify are good, or possible corrosion. 5) Ensure the fuel pump is working. There's a cheap fuel pump relay bypass for like $12. But with your dash lights not working, that sort of makes me think it's not the fuel pump relay. 6) Of course verify the starter is good.

Honestly hardly any shops are going to want to do WIN module repairs, and the wiring is something a lot of shops will be befuddled with. Find a guy who's REAL good with wiring & electronics, or they might be hunting all over the place and throwing expensive parts at it. Could get real expensive if it becomes a guessing game. That's exactly what you want to avoid. Buy a one-way ticket to Atlanta (or FL) this winter with some cash in hand, enjoy some sun & get yourself a rust-free (simpler) pickup. Then rust-proof the heck out of it.


Good luck. Circle back, Let us know what it turns out to be so we can all continue to learn.