2021 Dead battery

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JGriff

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Hello,
I know there are similar problems to mine that I have read on this forum, but I still need some feedback. I went out to leave for work in my 2021 RAM 1500 with 22,000 miles and the battery was dead. I put the battery charger on it for about 6 hours and it didn't charge a bit. I jumped and it started, but the check engine light came on and the error "Service Electronic Stability Control" message was displayed. From what I read on the forum, I needed a new battery. I didn't have time to go get a battery yet.

Two days later... (haven't driven the truck). Battery is completely dead. Jump it. Go to Autozone to get a new battery. They test the battery and said the battery is fine -- it passed all the tests. Do I believe their tests or go ahead and get a battery?

Called the dealer. They want $325 electronics test to look at my truck.

My wife drove the truck around town time. It started up every time. She just ran to Lowes for me and said the check engine light is off.

I don't want to get stuck some where so if I need a new battery I would like to get it overwith and buy it.

Thanks,
Jay
 
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JGriff

JGriff

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I did not test the battery -- but AutoZone did test it. I wasn't there so I am not sure how they tested it, but they printed my wife a report saying it was good and passed all tests. The report says it was good starting and charging.
 

Atcer2018

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I’d replace the battery. These modern vehicles are sensitive to slight drops in voltage. When AutoZone tested your battery did they do a battery load test and check the alternator output? You can take a battery with a weak or failing cell, test it and get better than 12V but it will fail to start the vehicle. Walmart has the best warranty on batteries. Four years non pro rated replacement, just keep the receipt. They typically have H7 and H8 AGM batteries for less than $200.
 

suicideking

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They typically have H7 and H8 AGM batteries for less than $200.

And make sure you DO get an AGM battery. I went to Autozone last time my Jeep battery died and the guy there was suggesting a non AGM. When I asked for an AGM he seemed a bit confused. Had to get him to turn the screen towards me and I said THAT ONE. He still seemed a little confused why I wanted to pay an extra $100 or so.

Wife's Ford Expedition, battery also died at a bout 2 years. Many MFG's cheap out on the batteries hoping it will outlast the warranty. Wife's car had to be towed to the dealer for a battery replacement under warranty. Of course, it was Sunday, so had to wait a day.
 

CanuckRam1313

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I'd put a meter on your system while running and see what your alternator is putting out, too.

Perhaps also consider going to an H8 AGM battery as an upgrade as well. Odyssey has theirs and it's 950cca vs the stock 730cca liquid filled.

Optima is also another consideration as well for their AGM battery upgrades.
 

RamDiver

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While I agree the battery is the very likely suspect in this circumstance, I have a question for all to consider.

How is replacing the battery without first testing the alternator any different from firing a parts cannon at the problem?

I wouldn't recommend changing anything without testing and proof first, especially when it's painfully simple to test.

One post said, to check the alternator. Why would you not do that before spending any money?

A multimeter is an invaluable device to own unless you live at your parent's house and they have one. :cool:

There are endless YouTube videos that show how to test an alternator and an inexpensive multimeter can be found almost anywhere.

.
 

Dean2

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RamDriver gives good advice.

Also, first warning sign, you said you put a charger on the battery for 6 hours, it did not charge up, but started with a boost. Then Autozone tested the battery and it is fine. Assuming they did a competent check, this leads one to suspect other issues.

So, have you checked the terminals for corrosion and contact. Have you checked the grounds? Have you checked voltage going into the battery when engine is running. What is battery voltage after sitting overnight, less than 12.5 you either have parasitic draw or some other issue.

I would have the battery retested while I was there or buy a load tester yourself. they are cheap and very handy. The old style toasters cost 50 bucks. With that and a $30 Multi meter you can save a ton of money and make sure you are fixing the right stuff.
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Atcer2018

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A multimeter is an invaluable device to own unless you live at your parent's house and they have one. :cool:
Don’t tempt me with a good time! No mortgage, no utilities, home cooked meals. Heck mom would do my laundry too! I’ll mow the lawn without having to be told but I won’t use my dad’s old analog multimeter. My old eyes have a hard enough time with the digital display on the one I have. LOL
 

RamDiver

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Don’t tempt me with a good time! No mortgage, no utilities, home cooked meals. Heck mom would do my laundry too! I’ll mow the lawn without having to be told but I won’t use my dad’s old analog multimeter. My old eyes have a hard enough time with the digital display on the one I have. LOL

I said multimeter, not VTVM. :eek:

.
 

RamDiver

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The old style toasters cost 50 bucks. With that and a $30 Multi meter you can save a ton of money and make sure you are fixing the right stuff.
View attachment 539218

Dean!

Most of the folks here live in the excited states and don't have prices like we do. The toaster-style battery load tester is about $20 at Harbour Freight and I'd bet WallyWorld sells a multimeter for $10 or less. LOL :cool:




Also, first warning sign, you said you put a charger on the battery for 6 hours, it did not charge up, but started with a boost. Then Autozone tested the battery and it is fine. Assuming they did a competent check, this leads one to suspect other issues.

So, have you checked the terminals for corrosion and contact. Have you checked the grounds? Have you checked voltage going into the battery when engine is running. What is battery voltage after sitting overnight, less than 12.5 you either have parasitic draw or some other issue.

^^^^^^

This is what I'm talking about, troubleshoot and analyze before spending any money. This usually saves money in the long run and teaches you how things work.

.
 
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GTyankee

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Your driving habits tell a story too

When you make your daily drive, are you driving at least 7 miles between Starts ?

Was your Wife driving at least that much, i ask because you mentioned that she did not have Starting issues ?

I don't know how my Ram continues to Start.

My Headlights are always on, when the Ram Starts, the Headlights are ON, not driving lights, my headlights are on Low Beam when the engine is running.
To be honest, my trips are always a mile or less,
I have the H8 Interstate Battery

I should connect up my

NOCO GENIUS2 Battery Charger​

 
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Mb7640

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Since you killed your battery the cells are now degraded these are maintenance free batteries. I would never trust that battery again. The days of servicing your own battery are long gone its a old battery. Yes of course you could have other issues. Did you install anything aftermarket then this happened? I have to replace my battery every 2 years here in az. We will see how the walmart battery holds up.
 

Dean2

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Since you killed your battery the cells are now degraded these are maintenance free batteries. I would never trust that battery again. The days of servicing your own battery are long gone its a old battery. Yes of course you could have other issues. Did you install anything aftermarket then this happened? I have to replace my battery every 2 years here in az. We will see how the walmart battery holds up.
High heat kills batteries faster than anything else, doesn't matter who makes the battery. AGMs in high heat die almost as fast as Lead Acid. If you have drained a battery dead, using a smart charger with a conditioner function will bring it back to near new, and it will be reliable.

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Post I wrote earlier. Hope it helps.

In addition to high temperatures killing batteries prematurely, leaving cars sit and letting the battery drain down then recharge, dramatically shortens battery life, no matter what kind it is.

In order to understand how quick this happens on our heavily computerised cars I thought, I would run the test on my 2015 LS460 SWB AWD. I started with a quality Multimeter that has both DC and AC current(AMP) measuring capacity. You put the black lead into the common port, and the Red lead into the 10A port, may also be labelled just AC/DC A on some meter. Having Alligator clips on the end of the probes will make doing this a whole bunch easier.

I shut off the car, put the key FOB in the house in an RFID box, left the doors unlocked, and lifted the hood. My car does not have a hood open warning light so no hood open sensor that needs to be defeated. I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery, clipped the Red Lead to the battery terminal and the black lead to the Negative cable. I then opened and closed the drivers door. Reading popped to 4.8 amps with the interior lights coming on. Closed the drivers door, reading dropped to 2.7 amps and after about 30 seconds started to steadily drop. Within 90 seconds it was down to .7 amp and still dropping. Within three minutes it was reading between .03 and .04 amps, so 30 to 40 Miliamps.

I had read that the FOB being too close would cause the vehicle to wake up so I went in the house and got the FOB. Even right beside the car, not change in .03-.04 AMPs being drawn. Used the FOB to open the trunk, reading popped up to 6 Amps. Closed the Truck with the auto close system using the button on the trunk lid, reading stayed at 5-6 AMPs. As soon as the trunk latched the AMPs dropped to 2.5 and then kept dropping following the same pattern above. I tried a number of different combinations and permutations, including putting the push button start in the run position without stepping on the brake so the car didn't start. Remember, your multimeter is limited to 10 AMPs, if you start the car, or turn on high draw things like Headlights, you will likely pop the fuse that protects the multimeter.

No matter what combinations I tried, the at rest reading dropped back to the 30 to 40 miliamp reading. The only thing I didn't do that I wish I had done, was lock the doors and see if the at rest reading increased with the security system active. Since I park in a secure garage and never lock the car, I didn't think about that till I had it all buttoned up again.

Since the car sits for long periods of time I have attached a NOCO harness to to the battery terminals to make hooking up the trickle charger much easier. This way I can just plug the trickle charger in without having to remove the clips and lift the battery cover each time to attach alligator clips. I have these quick connects on all my vehicles. Even at only 40 Miliamp, a battery will drop below starting voltage in about a month, if it is stored cold it will go flat faster than that. Remember, lead acid batteries do not like to be discharge down to 11 Volts and recharged. They are much happier and last far longer if kept above 12.3 volts and that means a trickle charger is a good idea if you don't drive your car for at least 30 minutes every 3 or 4 days.

Hope this information helps those of you suffering from batteries going flat or dying prematurely.

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Multimeters have a lot of different layouts, this is just for illustration.



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As a followup, Charged the battery to full, after an hour off the charger, read 12.73. July 2023 OEM Lexus battery. After sitting in the garage un-driven for 8 days, battery now reads 12.45. So the constant drain, even though very small, definitely draws down the battery over time. Battery went from 100% to 80% in 8 days. Still lots of juice to start the car. Left parked with no trickle charger, and assuming an even rate of drain the battery will be down to 50% in another 12 or so days.

At 12 Volts it is still enough to start the car but this is NOT what lead acid batteries like and will materially decrease its service life. If you aren't driving the car regularly your battery will last far longer if you put it on a .75 AMP to 2 AMP smart trickle charger like a Noco. The other option is to disconnect the negative battery during storage, but I find it a lot easier just to leave it on the trickle charger.


You can use the quick connect cable on the jump start terminals as well, they don't have to go on the battery itself. The reason I put them on mine was so I don't have to remove any of the under hood covers or the battery cover to hook up alligator clips each time I wanted to put the trickle charger on. On my LS you can't reach the battery terminals without opening the battery cover by the windshield.

Here is a picture of the LS460 Battery location. The panel with the Yellow sticker has to be removed at min to get alligator clips onto the battery.

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Mike Wenrich

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Since no one mentioned it I will add that a three year old factory battery is likely on its way out. Four years would be unlikely unless trickle charged. Good premium after market batteries are better that factory. The parts store battery/load checks are suspect unless the battery is obviously toast. I recently went thru this with a battery that had a failing cell. The load check did not detect it and I suspect it's because they cannot put the kind of load as an actual engine start. The OP can take a chance on the battery by charging it repeatedly but the result is going to be the same. It will leave you stranded somewhere when you most need it. It failed and there was a reason for that.

If the OP can check starting voltage at home when starting cold, it should show no more that a 2.5 volt drop. Anything below 10 volts usually means trouble even if it shows 12.5 before the start. That is how I determined my most recent problem was the battery. It dropped to 6-7 volts starting. Or in my case not starting. But checked okay on a parts store load test. It was under warranty so I had to argue the point and finally won.
 

marine0311

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Don’t tempt me with a good time! No mortgage, no utilities, home cooked meals. Heck mom would do my laundry too! I’ll mow the lawn without having to be told but I won’t use my dad’s old analog multimeter. My old eyes have a hard enough time with the digital display on the one I have. LOL
Don’t forget the home cooked meals as well. Cakes and pies all the way. You brought back good memories, considering mom went home to be with the Lord as well as my father and brother.
 

Atcer2018

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Don’t forget the home cooked meals as well. Cakes and pies all the way. You brought back good memories, considering mom went home to be with the Lord as well as my father and brother.
I feel your pain brother. Dad passed in 96 and mom in 2020. I miss them but they are in a better place.
 
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