2021 Dead battery

[marine0311]

I feel your pain brother. Dad passed in 96 and mom in 2020. I miss them but they are in a better place.

Thank you Atcer2018

 

[RamDiver]

Since no one mentioned it I will add that a three year old factory battery is likely on its way out. Four years would be unlikely unless trickle charged. Good premium after market batteries are better that factory. The parts store battery/load checks are suspect unless the battery is obviously toast. I recently went thru this with a battery that had a failing cell. The load check did not detect it and I suspect it's because they cannot put the kind of load as an actual engine start. The OP can take a chance on the battery by charging it repeatedly but the result is going to be the same. It will leave you stranded somewhere when you most need it. It failed and there was a reason for that.

If the OP can check starting voltage at home when starting cold, it should show no more that a 2.5 volt drop. Anything below 10 volts usually means trouble even if it shows 12.5 before the start. That is how I determined my most recent problem was the battery. It dropped to 6-7 volts starting. Or in my case not starting. But checked okay on a parts store load test. It was under warranty so I had to argue the point and finally won.

Did you not read page 1 of this thread where there were numerous recommendations to not test anything just replace the battery?

The point here is not to jump to conclusions based on previous experience that may or may not be under the same circumstances.

Yes, the battery is likely toast and yes replacing it without proper testing and analysis might result in the premature expiry of the new battery, wasting both time and money.

Testing the alternator is simple, costs next to nothing, and protects from a costly mistake.

Once the alternator and connections points are verified, if the battery requires replacement, I would be checking for a parasitic current draw as well, before the new battery is destroyed.

This is definitely not a rare occurrence with Ram trucks, just search for repeat battery failures.

There are too many variables involved to say that the OP's situation is the same as anyone else's.

Sure, one might choose to play the odds and guess correctly, more often than not.

I personally would choose the analize, learn, and prevent wasting $ when the testing is easy.

YMMV

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[M60A3 Driver]

Just a thought, and it may not apply to this situation, but have you used an OBD scanner to see if it's throwing any codes?

 

[Mike Wenrich]

Well of course I read Page one. You missed my point Ramdriver and your sarcasm isn't appreciated. Point was that factory batteries today are not as good as they used to be. In fact, most replacement batteries are not either. That is apparent with the lack of a good warranty except for Walmart. And of course do all the testing you can before spending money on a fix that might not be the answer. Good points made here on testing if the OP has the knowledge and equipment to do so. He probably has a volt meter on the dash or a menu to read voltage from the alternator but I don't have the same truck as the Op so I don't know for sure. Volt meters are inexpensive and I use mine for all sorts of testing. Including small household batteries and house wiring to name a couple. Handy tool.

 

[GTyankee]

I think that both of you are saying the same thing, just using different wording & phasing

 

[Overlander]

And make sure you DO get an AGM battery.

I'd put a meter on your system while running and see what your alternator is putting out, too.

Perhaps also consider going to an H8 AGM battery as an upgrade as well. Odyssey has theirs and it's 950cca vs the stock 730cca liquid filled.

Optima is also another consideration as well for their AGM battery upgrades.

I have a 2021 2500 and the battery failed just before 3 years with similar gremlins. The OE batts aren't very good. When they get weak you'll see the CANBUS drop and all kinds of random wonkiness can be created. Replacing OE with a $180 battery after 3 year is a great starting point and even if you have a different problem, consider it proactive maintenance.

I know this will trigger some, but there's no need to spend 2x on an AGM that your system can't charge properly. I went with a Napa Legend and haven't had an issue since. Interstate also makes good flooded batts. Unless you have extreme vibrations (off road racing) AND have a means to properly charge an AGM you will see no benefit. Others will argue this isn't true to support their $400 spend, but all you have do do is research AGM charging profiles and you'll understand. And CCA isn't the critical value for battery depletion between drive cycles, it's reserve capacity.

 

[horace33]

I had a dead battery on my 3 year old truck, had it checked @ the dealership, then a farm store where I usually by batteries. The dealership was actually cheaper. Put the battery in but kept my "old battery". Time goes by I charged the "old battery" mostly to jump my Super Bee, well it stated the car after some cranking. I'm confused but could always use an extra battery anyway.

 

[WINOverlander]

Lots of great info here, thanks!

 

[Marshall]

I would look first at the battery connection/ posts as it would not take charge, but started with cables. Could be poor connection
My 2014 still running the original battery

BTW I have a analog multi meter . I like it for diodes and such, but also have others. One has a temp probe that handy. but that one is not cheap. That Canadian tire /mastcraft one is quite good for the price. it will handle 10 amp which is enough to check battery drain, but not a starter .

If the load test shows OK and it is starting OK now, I would be looking at stuff besides the battery. Look for corrosion on connections and grounds . If it stops again , then that is when a meter comes in handy ad you can check voltage and if you have the proper meter, current flow.
But if you are not into this stuff , may have to get it checked out, don't have to be a dealer

 

[RamDiver]

I had a dead battery on my 3 year old truck, had it checked @ the dealership, then a farm store where I usually by batteries. The dealership was actually cheaper. Put the battery in but kept my "old battery". Time goes by I charged the "old battery" mostly to jump my Super Bee, well it stated the car after some cranking. I'm confused but could always use an extra battery anyway.

The thing is, if the dealership used a digital battery load tester, that would be the answer to this riddle.

The method a digital tester uses to determine a pass or fail is very abstract and prone to error.

A toaster style load tester is the only reliable method to load test a battery.

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

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[DOTallstar]

Hello,
I know there are similar problems to mine that I have read on this forum, but I still need some feedback. I went out to leave for work in my 2021 RAM 1500 with 22,000 miles and the battery was dead. I put the battery charger on it for about 6 hours and it didn't charge a bit. I jumped and it started, but the check engine light came on and the error "Service Electronic Stability Control" message was displayed. From what I read on the forum, I needed a new battery. I didn't have time to go get a battery yet.

Two days later... (haven't driven the truck). Battery is completely dead. Jump it. Go to Autozone to get a new battery. They test the battery and said the battery is fine -- it passed all the tests. Do I believe their tests or go ahead and get a battery?

Called the dealer. They want $325 electronics test to look at my truck.

My wife drove the truck around town time. It started up every time. She just ran to Lowes for me and said the check engine light is off.

I don't want to get stuck some where so if I need a new battery I would like to get it overwith and buy it.

Thanks,
Jay

Make sure theres not a parasitic draw somewhere. I had a dash cam that failed in that regard, and drained the battery. Jumpstarted ok, then dead again a few days later which was when I found that the dash cam was draining the battery. It would not jumpstart a second time, and I purchased a battery and new camera. Its a ‘21 3500 Tradesman. Do not drive this truck every day.

 

[DOTallstar]

Make sure theres not a parasitic draw somewhere. I had a dash cam that failed in that regard, and drained the battery. Jumpstarted ok, then dead again a few days later which was when I found that the dash cam was draining the battery. It would not jumpstart a second time, and I purchased a battery and new camera. Its a ‘21 3500 Tradesman. I do not drive this truck every day.

 

[fitz011]

Dean!

Most of the folks here live in the excited states and don't have prices like we do. The toaster-style battery load tester is about $20 at Harbour Freight and I'd bet WallyWorld sells a multimeter for $10 or less. LOL

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

I can attest confidently that the HF load tester is junk. Others for a little more $ seem to last longer.


^^^^^^

This is what I'm talking about, troubleshoot and analyze before spending any money. This usually saves money in the long run and teaches you how things work.

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[RamDiver]

I can attest confidently that the HF load tester is junk. Others for a little more $ seem to last longer.

A toaster-style battery load tester is an incredibly simple device, one of mine is decades old and still works the same as it did on day 1. I paid less than $20 CDN at Princess Auto ages ago.

The clamps aren't great but it gets the job done for the number of times I've used it.

Were the battery clamps crap on the cheap HF unit or was something else deficient?

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[Curmudgeon]

I have the $20 Harbor Freight battery tester but I have
not yet used it.

I learned years ago that Harbor Freight is a great place to save money when you need a tool that you won't use often. My garage and home are filled with tools of all sorts that have only been used a couple times in 20 years or more.

I'm retired now, but if I worked in any trade that required reliable tools that I used frequently I would not waste any time at Harbor Freight.

I have saved a crazy amount of money buying things that I may only use a couple times. Sort of like Sears Craftsman but even cheaper.

 

[RamDiver]

I have the $20 Harbor Freight battery tester but I have
not yet used it.

I learned years ago that Harbor Freight is a great place to save money when you need a tool that you won't use often. My garage and home are filled with tools of all sorts that have only been used a couple times in 20 years or more.

I'm retired now, but if I worked in any trade that required reliable tools that I used frequently I would not waste any time at Harbor Freight.

I have saved a crazy amount of money buying things that I may only use a couple times. Sort of like Sears Craftsman but even cheaper.

I'm on that program too.

I have lots of tools that came from Princess Auto and TSC that would have cost 3-5 times as much if I had bought them elsewhere. Like impact socket sets, snap-ring plyer sets, and pry bars, among others.

I rarely use air tools or snap-ring plyers but I have enough to get through most repairs if required.

I own 2 Snap-On screwdrivers that I bought ages ago when I was working but they don't screw any better than the Canadian Tire set I bought at 70% off.

.

 

[Marshall]

Dad bought me a large set of Sears tools in the 1950's and I would put any of those up with snap on anytime. I still have a couple of the flat screw drivers, and they are still good.
These days ,I like the fat handled Ca. tire. ones as I can't grip a small handle now. Have a couple german ones that are good / expensive.
I used air tools most of the time , but never used those nice thin sears socket with air impact.
Only air tools now are air nailers, But I keep eyeing the new Milwaukee cordless nailers, But I can't justify that cost .

My go to lumber supplier has every red tool that is made. Its worse then a candy store when you where a kid, I have a problem, but don't care.

 

[Dean2]

I have a large variety of makes in tools as I keep a good selection in half a dozen different places so I have tools handy. I was at one time tempted to buy the cheaper versions for certain uses, that went away pretty quick. A one use tool, I can MAYBE see buying Princess Auto quality as long as it will do the job, but wrenches and sockets, screw drivers etc, minimum quality is the old Craftsman or CT higher end Mastercraft.

Snap on wrenches, sockets etc are a pleasure to use and well worth the extra price. They grip nuts better, especially ones that are already a bit rounded, are half as thick for getting into tight spots and are beautifully made. My main tool set in the garage has a lot of Snap on and Mac tools in it as they get used a lot and on harder jobs. Tool kits in the vehicles, ATV etc get Craftsman, Grey or Mastercraft Lifetime tools. Most of the stuff I had below those grades have been re-homed or tossed. Over a 55 year ownership and use pattern, the extra cost up front has been more than well worth it. I haven't bought much for tools in the last thirty years, just the odd specialy item, as the oens I started out with are still going strong.