Thinking about refreshing 2003

[CUAviator]

I’ve got a 2003 Lonestar (20” wheels, etc). 155,555 mile. It still looks pretty good with some minor dings and the clear coat peeling on rear box portion. Runs pretty good too but it’s time refresh some stuff:
- 2 x CEL (evap and power steering codes…but don’t affect drivability)
- 1 x goes into limp mode when it’s hotter than 105 deg and driving faster than 60mph
- Headliner is starting to peel off in small area near windshield
- HVAC blower sounds like there’s leaves in it when it’s at 3 or 4 level blow
- The environmental blend is wonky (sometimes it switches, sometimes it doesn’t. And it only blows cold air at the drivers feet)
- Need to replace the wire harness in the rear passenger door
- Shocks are brand new (billstein) but it’s getting pretty creaky over bumps
- Windows need to be retinted (back window totally came off and driver windows are bubbling and scratched)
- Lower power outlet is blown (replaced fuse but that didn’t fix it)
- Passenger window goes up and down pretty slow…esp if I’m moving it at the same time as the driver window
- When starting first time of day, RPM spikes up pretty for just and instant (this is new within the last year)
- Engine has more ticking that usual
- Shifting is getting a little more “abrupt”
- Underside is stilll pretty good, but beginning to build up some rust. Can that be cleaned off and treatment applied
- Diff and axels need some new fluid
- Eventually repaint

QUESTION: I‘m debating taking care of this stuff or maybe getting something fresh and new. I love this truck, but is It worth it?
- How much could I expect to pay to fix this stuff?
- Is it better to take to Ram dealer or some other auto shop?

 

[chopperman1]

If you can't DIY the repairs, simply not worth the investment finacially. If it has sentimental value, that would have to be up to you.

 

[Daw14]

A dealer visit will most likely cost three times the value of the entire truck ,and dealers are not the most honest folk to work with . Find some references from friends and or family for a competent independent mechanics shop , maybe two . Then get a quote from them ,then prioritize what’s needed to keep safe first ,then onto the cosmetic things. Should have the brakes checked also. Putting a few grand into it will surely beat a monthly payment.

 

[CUAviator]

A dealer visit will most likely cost three times the value of the entire truck ,and dealers are not the most honest folk to work with . Find some references from friends and or family for a competent independent mechanics shop , maybe two . Then get a quote from them ,then prioritize what’s needed to keep safe first ,then onto the cosmetic things. Should have the brakes checked also. Putting a few grand into it will surely beat a monthly payment.

Copy. Thanks! Breaks/rotors are actually fairly new (less than a year)

 

[CUAviator]

If you can't DIY the repairs, simply not worth the investment finacially. If it has sentimental value, that would have to be up to you.

Super sentimental. Used some money I got when my mom passed away to buy it. Then brought my first baby home from the hospital in it.

 

[Travelin Ram]

I have done some projects like this, and it gets expensive real fast, even doing the work myself.

I would assess the expensive bits first before committing. What has the maintenance been like?
How often has the oil been changed?
Has the transmission ever been serviced?
Has the cooling system been serviced? Getting hot & limp mode is a big red flag.

If the bones are sound it may be worth some rehab. If it’s like most 20 year old trucks, probably not.

 

[GTyankee]

Steps 1 through 3, if they have not been done recently

Service fluids & filters, engine, smell transmission fluid, hope it does not smell like it is Burnt
drop the rear differential cover & catch the old fluid
check old fluid for Chunks of metal the size of a match head, no chunks, fill it back up with new fluid.

drain & flush your radiator a couple of times
back flush your heater core, run water through both HVAC hoses, until everything is running clear

Then fix your trouble codes

Body work could be put off until later

 

[CUAviator]

I have done some projects like this, and it gets expensive real fast, even doing the work myself.

I would assess the expensive bits first before committing. What has the maintenance been like?
How often has the oil been changed?
Has the transmission ever been serviced?
Has the cooling system been serviced? Getting hot & limp mode is a big red flag.

If the bones are sound it may be worth some rehab. If it’s like most 20 year old trucks, probably not.

Oil changed are regular and fluids have been serviced. It’s actually in way better shape than most20 year old trucks…In fact people comment on how’d good it looks constantly and are shocked when I tell them it’s an 03.
The truck itself didn’t get hot, it only gets the limp mode when it’s super hot outside (I live in south Texas) and I’m not sure if my cold air intake has something to do with that.

 

[CUAviator]

Steps 1 through 3, if they have not been done recently

Service fluids & filters, engine, smell transmission fluid, hope it does not smell like it is Burnt
drop the rear differential cover & catch the old fluid
check old fluid for Chunks of metal the size of a match head, no chunks, fill it back up with new fluid.

drain & flush your radiator a couple of times
back flush your heater core, run water through both HVAC hoses, until everything is running clear

Then fix your trouble codes

Body work could be put off until later

Awesome. Thanks

 

[tron67j]

Some ideas embedded below starting each with first word all capitalized. I also had a 2003 that I owned from new with a lot of sentimental value, but eventually it just didn't do the job I needed and my wife wanted a newer vehicle with more safety features. Good luck

QUOTE="CUAviator, post: 2786093, member: 56021"]
I’ve got a 2003 Lonestar (20” wheels, etc). 155,555 mile. It still looks pretty good with some minor dings and the clear coat peeling on rear box portion. Runs pretty good too but it’s time refresh some stuff:
- 2 x CEL (evap and power steering codes…but don’t affect drivability)
- 1 x goes into limp mode when it’s hotter than 105 deg and driving faster than 60mph
- Headliner is starting to peel off in small area near windshield. BUY a replacement at a recycler all intact and replace your headliner, I priced it in the past and not that expensive.
- HVAC blower sounds like there’s leaves in it when it’s at 3 or 4 level blow. THERE could be, seen it happen. You could take blower off and check it out. Otherwise not the best but just live with it for now.
- The environmental blend is wonky (sometimes it switches, sometimes it doesn’t. And it only blows cold air at the drivers feet). COULD be low pressure in coolant system but don't just go adding. It should be pressure tested and any leaks repaired.
- Need to replace the wire harness in the rear passenger door. FIND a replacement at a recycler. Also, not sure if possible but reach out to M²Mods in vendor section and see if one can be built.
- Shocks are brand new (billstein) but it’s getting pretty creaky over bumps. CREAKY could be ungreased fittings in front, springs. Possibly not the new shocks unless they weren't installed properly, check connection points.
- Windows need to be retinted (back window totally came off and driver windows are bubbling and scratched). JUST remove tinting for now to clean it up and use window blinds when parked until money is available to retint.
- Lower power outlet is blown (replaced fuse but that didn’t fix it). CHECK the output at the fuse, and check both wires from the outlet for continuity, possible broken wires. You could run new power to center console and just insert USB plugs. Not sure if available for Grn 3, but aftermarket Gen 4 harness to install USB in doors is available.
- Passenger window goes up and down pretty slow…esp if I’m moving it at the same time as the driver window. GREASE the tracks as they have crud in them from years of use. Maybe even spray out tracks first with WD40 to remove grit.
- When starting first time of day, RPM spikes up pretty for just and instant (this is new within the last year)
- Engine has more ticking that usual
- Shifting is getting a little more “abrupt”. DEFINITELY get this looked at, money spent here could save a more damaged transmission down the road.
- Underside is stilll pretty good, but beginning to build up some rust. Can that be cleaned off and treatment applied. YOU can work this over time.
- Diff and axels need some new fluid. General maintenance always good, follow manufacturer recommendations.
- Eventually repaint. UNDERSTAND this, but for now just keep clean, use something like McGuire's polishing compound to give it a good shine but which is gentle on the remaining clear coat. Repainting is expensive and only as good as the prep. Maybe do underbody rejuvenation just before you paint by taking bed and fenders off in a months long process. Till then, enjoy the idea that you will eventually fix the dings and can be less nervous about people parking near you as well as rocks flying up.

QUESTION: I‘m debating taking care of this stuff or maybe getting something fresh and new. I love this truck, but is It worth it?
- How much could I expect to pay to fix this stuff?
- Is it better to take to Ram dealer or some other auto shop?
[/QUOTE]

 

[CUAviator]

Some ideas embedded below starting each with first word all capitalized. I also had a 2003 that I owned from new with a lot of sentimental value, but eventually it just didn't do the job I needed and my wife wanted a newer vehicle with more safety features. Good luck

QUOTE="CUAviator, post: 2786093, member: 56021"]
I’ve got a 2003 Lonestar (20” wheels, etc). 155,555 mile. It still looks pretty good with some minor dings and the clear coat peeling on rear box portion. Runs pretty good too but it’s time refresh some stuff:
- 2 x CEL (evap and power steering codes…but don’t affect drivability)
- 1 x goes into limp mode when it’s hotter than 105 deg and driving faster than 60mph
- Headliner is starting to peel off in small area near windshield. BUY a replacement at a recycler all intact and replace your headliner, I priced it in the past and not that expensive.
- HVAC blower sounds like there’s leaves in it when it’s at 3 or 4 level blow. THERE could be, seen it happen. You could take blower off and check it out. Otherwise not the best but just live with it for now.
- The environmental blend is wonky (sometimes it switches, sometimes it doesn’t. And it only blows cold air at the drivers feet). COULD be low pressure in coolant system but don't just go adding. It should be pressure tested and any leaks repaired.
- Need to replace the wire harness in the rear passenger door. FIND a replacement at a recycler. Also, not sure if possible but reach out to M²Mods in vendor section and see if one can be built.
- Shocks are brand new (billstein) but it’s getting pretty creaky over bumps. CREAKY could be ungreased fittings in front, springs. Possibly not the new shocks unless they weren't installed properly, check connection points.
- Windows need to be retinted (back window totally came off and driver windows are bubbling and scratched). JUST remove tinting for now to clean it up and use window blinds when parked until money is available to retint.
- Lower power outlet is blown (replaced fuse but that didn’t fix it). CHECK the output at the fuse, and check both wires from the outlet for continuity, possible broken wires. You could run new power to center console and just insert USB plugs. Not sure if available for Grn 3, but aftermarket Gen 4 harness to install USB in doors is available.
- Passenger window goes up and down pretty slow…esp if I’m moving it at the same time as the driver window. GREASE the tracks as they have crud in them from years of use. Maybe even spray out tracks first with WD40 to remove grit.
- When starting first time of day, RPM spikes up pretty for just and instant (this is new within the last year)
- Engine has more ticking that usual
- Shifting is getting a little more “abrupt”. DEFINITELY get this looked at, money spent here could save a more damaged transmission down the road.
- Underside is stilll pretty good, but beginning to build up some rust. Can that be cleaned off and treatment applied. YOU can work this over time.
- Diff and axels need some new fluid. General maintenance always good, follow manufacturer recommendations.
- Eventually repaint. UNDERSTAND this, but for now just keep clean, use something like McGuire's polishing compound to give it a good shine but which is gentle on the remaining clear coat. Repainting is expensive and only as good as the prep. Maybe do underbody rejuvenation just before you paint by taking bed and fenders off in a months long process. Till then, enjoy the idea that you will eventually fix the dings and can be less nervous about people parking near you as well as rocks flying up.

QUESTION: I‘m debating taking care of this stuff or maybe getting something fresh and new. I love this truck, but is It worth it?
- How much could I expect to pay to fix this stuff?
- Is it better to take to Ram dealer or some other auto shop?

[/QUOTE]
Sweet. Thanks!

 

[Wild one]

How the hell can 5,000+ lbs of steel and plastic have any sentimental value. You guys got to wake up and realize the truck has no sentimental attachment to you It's a 20 year old truck that needs a bunch of money spent on it,if replacing it with something newer is an option,that's the way i'd go.Even if you rebuilt it stem to stern,in another couple years,you won't be able to find parts for it anymore. Sentimental is great,but realism is more realistic

 

[G-Ride990]

How the hell can 5,000+ lbs of steel and plastic have any sentimental value. You guys got to wake up and realize the truck has no sentimental attachment to you It's a 20 year old truck that needs a bunch of money spent on it,if replacing it with something newer is an option,that's the way i'd go.Even if you rebuilt it stem to stern,in another couple years,you won't be able to find parts for it anymore. Sentimental is great,but realism is more realistic

Completely agreed, it took me a long time to come to the same realization with a hot rod truck I had for many years. And at least mine was somewhat collectible though.

Yours is not, it is a dime a dozen truck that you can pickup for a few grand all day in decent condition. And, you can't even tune yours if you wanted to go wild with it.

Not worth it, she's worn out. Snag an emblem off the thing for memories sake and let it go. Build a new one in memory of the old one. I mean no hard feelings either, I have just been there before, learned from my mistakes.

 

[farout75]

I’ve got a 2003 Lonestar (20” wheels, etc). 155,555 mile. It still looks pretty good with some minor dings and the clear coat peeling on rear box portion. Runs pretty good too but it’s time refresh some stuff:
- 2 x CEL (evap and power steering codes…but don’t affect drivability)
- 1 x goes into limp mode when it’s hotter than 105 deg and driving faster than 60mph
- Headliner is starting to peel off in small area near windshield
- HVAC blower sounds like there’s leaves in it when it’s at 3 or 4 level blow
- The environmental blend is wonky (sometimes it switches, sometimes it doesn’t. And it only blows cold air at the drivers feet)
- Need to replace the wire harness in the rear passenger door
- Shocks are brand new (billstein) but it’s getting pretty creaky over bumps
- Windows need to be retinted (back window totally came off and driver windows are bubbling and scratched)
- Lower power outlet is blown (replaced fuse but that didn’t fix it)
- Passenger window goes up and down pretty slow…esp if I’m moving it at the same time as the driver window
- When starting first time of day, RPM spikes up pretty for just and instant (this is new within the last year)
- Engine has more ticking that usual
- Shifting is getting a little more “abrupt”
- Underside is stilll pretty good, but beginning to build up some rust. Can that be cleaned off and treatment applied
- Diff and axels need some new fluid
- Eventually repaint

QUESTION: I‘m debating taking care of this stuff or maybe getting something fresh and new. I love this truck, but is It worth it?
- How much could I expect to pay to fix this stuff?
- Is it better to take to Ram dealer or some other auto shop?

There come a time to say this is not worth the cost to fix something. 155,000 mile is not too bad, but allowing all these issues to pile up is the problem. The cost over the last ten years when these issues began was the time you should have tackled these. Now they are all bunches up now its going to be costly.

Beside that the truck is 20 years old, and time along has taken it's tole. Sell the truck if you can or trade it for what ever they offer, and buy a nice used one that still has some warranty.

 

[DMark]

Another line of thought....

- Keep it as your Beater. Only spend money on essential maintenance to keep it going.

- Buy something newer as your daily driver.

 

[CUAviator]

Thanks for all the input. Making it a tough decision

 

[marcusrhall57]

I’ve got a 2003 Lonestar (20” wheels, etc). 155,555 mile. It still looks pretty good with some minor dings and the clear coat peeling on rear box portion. Runs pretty good too but it’s time refresh some stuff:
- 2 x CEL (evap and power steering codes…but don’t affect drivability)
- 1 x goes into limp mode when it’s hotter than 105 deg and driving faster than 60mph
- Headliner is starting to peel off in small area near windshield
- HVAC blower sounds like there’s leaves in it when it’s at 3 or 4 level blow
- The environmental blend is wonky (sometimes it switches, sometimes it doesn’t. And it only blows cold air at the drivers feet)
- Need to replace the wire harness in the rear passenger door
- Shocks are brand new (billstein) but it’s getting pretty creaky over bumps
- Windows need to be retinted (back window totally came off and driver windows are bubbling and scratched)
- Lower power outlet is blown (replaced fuse but that didn’t fix it)
- Passenger window goes up and down pretty slow…esp if I’m moving it at the same time as the driver window
- When starting first time of day, RPM spikes up pretty for just and instant (this is new within the last year)
- Engine has more ticking that usual
- Shifting is getting a little more “abrupt”
- Underside is stilll pretty good, but beginning to build up some rust. Can that be cleaned off and treatment applied
- Diff and axels need some new fluid
- Eventually repaint

QUESTION: I‘m debating taking care of this stuff or maybe getting something fresh and new. I love this truck, but is It worth it?
- How much could I expect to pay to fix this stuff?
- Is it better to take to Ram dealer or some other auto shop?

I also love my truck, and am having multiple issues with it. If I go to a shop I'm sure its going to be costly...in addition I'll lose my only source of transportation.. and I'm on a fixed budget. I weighed my options... take it to a shop for repairs, use it as a trade, or buy parts and fix it.. I decided find a cheap 2nd car, and fix the truck as time permits.
It will be cheaper in the long run for me to fix it. A cheap buy here pay here payment would be a lot cheaper than a newer vehicle, my old work horse is paid for..

 

[Gettinshifty]

Only do it if you can DIY the labor and plan to keep it a long long time. Don’t expect to get your money back if you sell. Speaking as someone who just put $5k into a 2003 with half the issues yours has, and now needing to sell unexpectedly.

 

[CUAviator]

Some ideas embedded below starting each with first word all capitalized. I also had a 2003 that I owned from new with a lot of sentimental value, but eventually it just didn't do the job I needed and my wife wanted a newer vehicle with more safety features. Good luck

QUOTE="CUAviator, post: 2786093, member: 56021"]
I’ve got a 2003 Lonestar (20” wheels, etc). 155,555 mile. It still looks pretty good with some minor dings and the clear coat peeling on rear box portion. Runs pretty good too but it’s time refresh some stuff:
- 2 x CEL (evap and power steering codes…but don’t affect drivability)
- 1 x goes into limp mode when it’s hotter than 105 deg and driving faster than 60mph
- Headliner is starting to peel off in small area near windshield. BUY a replacement at a recycler all intact and replace your headliner, I priced it in the past and not that expensive.
- HVAC blower sounds like there’s leaves in it when it’s at 3 or 4 level blow. THERE could be, seen it happen. You could take blower off and check it out. Otherwise not the best but just live with it for now.
- The environmental blend is wonky (sometimes it switches, sometimes it doesn’t. And it only blows cold air at the drivers feet). COULD be low pressure in coolant system but don't just go adding. It should be pressure tested and any leaks repaired.
- Need to replace the wire harness in the rear passenger door. FIND a replacement at a recycler. Also, not sure if possible but reach out to M²Mods in vendor section and see if one can be built.
- Shocks are brand new (billstein) but it’s getting pretty creaky over bumps. CREAKY could be ungreased fittings in front, springs. Possibly not the new shocks unless they weren't installed properly, check connection points.
- Windows need to be retinted (back window totally came off and driver windows are bubbling and scratched). JUST remove tinting for now to clean it up and use window blinds when parked until money is available to retint.
- Lower power outlet is blown (replaced fuse but that didn’t fix it). CHECK the output at the fuse, and check both wires from the outlet for continuity, possible broken wires. You could run new power to center console and just insert USB plugs. Not sure if available for Grn 3, but aftermarket Gen 4 harness to install USB in doors is available.
- Passenger window goes up and down pretty slow…esp if I’m moving it at the same time as the driver window. GREASE the tracks as they have crud in them from years of use. Maybe even spray out tracks first with WD40 to remove grit.
- When starting first time of day, RPM spikes up pretty for just and instant (this is new within the last year)
- Engine has more ticking that usual
- Shifting is getting a little more “abrupt”. DEFINITELY get this looked at, money spent here could save a more damaged transmission down the road.
- Underside is stilll pretty good, but beginning to build up some rust. Can that be cleaned off and treatment applied. YOU can work this over time.
- Diff and axels need some new fluid. General maintenance always good, follow manufacturer recommendations.
- Eventually repaint. UNDERSTAND this, but for now just keep clean, use something like McGuire's polishing compound to give it a good shine but which is gentle on the remaining clear coat. Repainting is expensive and only as good as the prep. Maybe do underbody rejuvenation just before you paint by taking bed and fenders off in a months long process. Till then, enjoy the idea that you will eventually fix the dings and can be less nervous about people parking near you as well as rocks flying up.

QUESTION: I‘m debating taking care of this stuff or maybe getting something fresh and new. I love this truck, but is It worth it?
- How much could I expect to pay to fix this stuff?
- Is it better to take to Ram dealer or some other auto shop?

[/QUOTE]
Got the:
Transfer case fluid
Both diff fluid
Transmission fluid and filter change
Driver door lock motor
Rear door wire harness
Lower cigar lighter oort
Code 0551 (power steering valve)
Suspension and front end check
$1000

Glued the head liner back up muself

Changing oil and using 5w30 mobile 1 with liqui Molly ceratec for the clicking.

For me - worth it!

 

[GRKN]

Doesn’t sound like a bad deal, especially if it’s sentimental to you.

Keep in mind a lot of the folks here are the type to buy a new truck every 2 years and think you need to change every possible mechanical component over 100k. I’m sure you’ll get lots more miles out of it if you keep up with maintenance.