Tidiest Method To Add New Permanent Live Connections To Battery / Fuse Box

[Wild one]

I think you're tied to the wrong bolt to have a fused link,you should be tied to the outer bolts. If you lift the TPIM/fuse box up,it's wide open under it,so i think your worry about water ingress is a bit misplaced

 

[EViS]

I think you're tied to the wrong bolt to have a fused link,you should be tied to the outer bolts. If you lift the TPIM/fuse box up,it's wide open under it,so i think your worry about water ingress is a bit misplaced

Can I just confirm that you do see the 80A midi fuse in-between the new fuse box and the battery? There are also three factory cables below this battery bolt leading elsewhere. I wasn't sure whether adding my cable on to one of the two existing battery fuse lugs was sensible.

 

[Wild one]

Can I just confirm that you do see the 80A midi fuse in-between the new fuse box and the battery? There are also circa 4 factory cables below this battery bolt leading elsewhere. I wasn't sure whether adding my cable on to one of the two existing battery fuse lugs was sensible.

Get better pictures,but in those pics it looks like you're tied into the unfused bolt.
You're making this out to be way harder then it has to be,maybe take it to a shop and let them do it

 

[EViS]

Get better pictures,but in those pics it looks like you're tied into the unfused bolt.
You're making this out to be way harder then it has to be,maybe take it to a shop and let them do it

Yes, I've tapped into the unfused battery bolt, which also has three factory cables attached underneath it. Only two factory cables come of each fuse at the battery. My new cable then runs via an 80A midi fuse. I've attached a photo from a side angle which hopefully shows this installation a tad better. How does that look?

 

[Wild one]

Yes, I've tapped into the unfused battery bolt, which also has three factory cables attached underneath it. Only two factory cables come of each fuse at the battery. My new cable then runs via an 80A midi fuse. I've attached a photo from a side angle which hopefully shows this installation a tad better. How does that look?

I'd get rid of the split loom covers you've installed,and use good old hockey stick tape instead.It's a cloth style tape that is a very close match to the original cloth tape the factory uses. If you're hung up the split loom,install it after wrapping your wiring in cloth tape,then wrap the loom in cloth tape to keep it from collecting dirt and turning into a grinder on your wiring

 

[EViS]

I'd get rid of the split loom covers you've installed,and use good old hockey stick tape instead.It's a cloth style tape that is a very close match to the original cloth tape the factory uses. If you're hung up the split loom,install it after wrapping your wiring in cloth tape,then wrap the loom in cloth tape to keep it from collecting dirt and turning into a grinder on your wiring

I used Tesa harness cloth tape further up in the installation where I had to splice for some relay signals. However, it was my first time using expandable black braid (which is also underneath the split conduit) and that was an absolute nuisance to use. It looks smart, particularly with the heat shrink ends, but I'm not sure I'd use it again. I didn't actually consider dirt grinding away at sheath, that's good to know for the future, thanks for the tip. In saying that, so much of the factory wiring sits in split conduit without any additional protection.

However, going back to the connection to the battery, which you can hopefully see a little clearer now? Is there anything problematic in how I've fused the new auxiliary circuit? Obviously prior to this photo, I think you assumed that there was no fuse whatsoever?