Tidiest Method To Add New Permanent Live Connections To Battery / Fuse Box

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EViS

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What's the cleanest and most professional way to add a couple of permanent live feeds from the battery to power new accessories via relays? In simple terms, where and how should these new circuits be connected?

For example, my 2015 RAM 1500 fuse box only has a single main power post in the top-left corner. Is there any reason not to use this post for multiple new feeds (with appropriate inline fuses)? Fuse taps are another option, but with more than one or two, I would run out of suitable circuits to tap into safely.

I've considered installing a dedicated accessory fuse box, but I’m unsure if that’s overkill - and even then, what’s the best way to supply power to it?

Would love to see examples of how others have set up similar installs.
 

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Wild one

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What's the cleanest and most professional way to add a couple of permanent live feeds from the battery to power new accessories via relays? In simple terms, where and how should these new circuits be connected?

For example, my 2015 RAM 1500 fuse box only has a single main power post in the top-left corner. Is there any reason not to use this post for multiple new feeds (with appropriate inline fuses)? Fuse taps are another option, but with more than one or two, I would run out of suitable circuits to tap into safely.

I've considered installing a dedicated accessory fuse box, but I’m unsure if that’s overkill - and even then, what’s the best way to supply power to it?

Would love to see examples of how others have set up similar installs.
I ran all my accessories off the main lug on the fuse box.My nitrous system used a high draw 30 amp bottle heater,and i ran it's relay off the fuse box lug
 
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EViS

EViS

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I ran all my accessories off the main lug on the fuse box.My nitrous system used a high draw 30 amp bottle heater,and i ran it's relay off the fuse box lug
Is the fuse box lug pretty much a direct unfused connection to the battery?
 

Wild one

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Is the fuse box lug pretty much a direct unfused connection to the battery?
Alternator is tied to it to. Follow the wiring off the lug,it'll become pretty obvious of what it ties to.
 

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What are you planning to run? There's a couple switch panel options that connect to a single power source, like the battery, and tap into key on power source to provide multiple devices with fused and relayed key on power through a junction box with anywhere from 4-8 circuits. Auxbeam, diode dynamics, sPOD all have multiple options. Mount the relay box, run a heavy gauge wire to positive connection on the battery or other source, and find a solid ground. All your accessories tie into the relay panel via the positive wires, and then you just need to ground them at a convenient location. The switch panel passes through the firewall via a small cable that plugs into the relay panel. Very easy, very clean way to wire multiple accessories. Just make sure you read what each circuit of the panel is rated for, as many of them don't have the same wattage rating for each circuit. Things can get as cheap or as expensive as you'd like.
Diode Dynamics D-Switch 8-Channel Automotive Switch Panel https://share.google/AabGbzKxVF60rRIx2
universal-solutions - 4x4spod https://share.google/QxwejjutkxnaBX70u
 

KansasArt

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When I used to ride motorcycles long distances I would ride 2500+ miles a week for weeks on end. I added an auxiliary fuse block to power heated clothing, auxiliary lights… I used THIS brand. Water proof and each circuit was individually fused. When I get around to adding heated seats I’ll do it this way again. The advantage is that it’s separated from the canbus system.
 
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EViS

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Alternator is tied to it to. Follow the wiring off the lug,it'll become pretty obvious of what it ties to.
Unfortunately this was not obvious as the cable from the fuse board almost immediately amalgamates with the rest of the loom.
 
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EViS

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Thank you for all of your suggestions. I opted for a Blue Sea Systems 6 circuit fuse board and a Victron Energy midi fuse holder. Both are mounted to the top of the OEM fuse box lid with 3M SJ3550 Dual Lock velcro which means that the OEM fuse box lid isn't compromised with any holes.

The 80a midi fuse is connected to the battery with 16 mm2 cable. I would have preferred to connect this to the main lug inside of the OEM fuse box, however I couldn't find a bent ring terminal that's long enough to clear the one that's already in there, and it would have meant cutting a small section of the cover over this lug.

I've yet to connect the negative side of the fuse board. Would it be best to run this directly to the negative on the battery or to the bolt just to the right of the OEM fuse box?
 

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Wild one

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Thank you for all of your suggestions. I opted for a Blue Sea Systems 6 circuit fuse board and a Victron Energy midi fuse holder. Both are mounted to the top of the OEM fuse box lid with 3M SJ3550 Dual Lock velcro which means that the OEM fuse box lid isn't compromised with any holes.

The 80a midi fuse is connected to the battery with 16 mm2 cable. I would have preferred to connect this to the main lug inside of the OEM fuse box, however I couldn't find a bent ring terminal that's long enough to clear the one that's already in there, and it would have meant cutting a small section of the cover over this lug.

I've yet to connect the negative side of the fuse board. Would it be best to run this directly to the negative on the battery or to the bolt just to the right of the OEM fuse box?
Use the ground lug on the fender beside the battery.
I would think something like these would of worked to tie to the fuseboxes power lug.

 
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Use the ground lug on the fender beside the battery.
I would think something like these would of worked to tie to the fuseboxes power lug.

Standard ring terminals would have required a piece of the cover to be cut out to allow for the terminal to protrude out. This would have probably been fine, but I didn't want to alter the box if I could help it.
 
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You can use inline fuses as well? I would never not use a fuse, asking for trouble.
The positive cable from the battery is fused, and obviously so is each auxiliary item via the new fuse block. Is this what you are referring to?
 

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Standard ring terminals would have required a piece of the cover to be cut out to allow for the terminal to protrude out. This would have probably been fine, but I didn't want to alter the box if I could help it.
I ran a 6AWG battery ring terminal off the fuse box lug,and never had to cut anything for the cover to fit back on.I think if you turn the add on terminal upside down and put it under the factory ring terminal it fits with-out any cover modifying
 
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EViS

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I ran a 6AWG battery ring terminal off the fuse box lug,and never had to cut anything for the cover to fit back on.I think if you turn the add on terminal upside down and put it under the factory ring terminal it fits with-out any cover modifying
When you next have a moment, could you take a photo of this? The ring terminal on my 2015 factory fuse box is bent 90 degrees downwards which prevents another straight terminal from being fitted underneath it.
 

Wild one

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When you next have a moment, could you take a photo of this? The ring terminal on my 2015 factory fuse box is bent 90 degrees downwards which prevents another straight terminal from being fitted underneath it.
Grab some pliars and bend things to fit,as i don't remember having any issues with adding another terminal to the fuse box lug.Sold the truck so you're SOL on pics.I'd think with a bit of studying,you should be able to add another ring terminal with-out cutting anything,as i don't remember cutting anything to make it all work,and i had 2 big &$$ ring terminals on that lug,as i ran a relocated battery. Big ole Group 31 AGM battery in the battery box
 

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KansasArt

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When I added aux fuse box to my cycle I had the power line custom made. It was made to the exact length I needed. The rings I needed were the exact size for the battery and the fuse box. Professionally crimped. You couldn’t pull them off. And it had an inline fuse to protect the box. I don’t remember where I had it done but it was small outfit that specialized in wiring solutions for hot rods.
 
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EViS

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Grab some pliars and bend things to fit,as i don't remember having any issues with adding another terminal to the fuse box lug.Sold the truck so you're SOL on pics.I'd think with a bit of studying,you should be able to add another ring terminal with-out cutting anything,as i don't remember cutting anything to make it all work,and i had 2 big &$$ ring terminals on that lug,as i ran a relocated battery. Big ole Group 31 AGM battery in the battery box
I took another look at this. A straight lug will just about fit, but the cover will only very slightly bend out of shape once closed. A minor incision would help but may be unnecessary, as you say. Unfortunately, bending a straight ring terminal will not work as the terminal length will be too short to get over the lug base plate.

Would it be preferable to move the connection from the battery (as per my current installation - see above photos) to the fuse box lug? Or are we talking semantics and this would make no difference?
 

Wild one

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I took another look at this. A straight lug will just about fit, but the cover will only very slightly bend out of shape once closed. A minor incision would help but may be unnecessary, as you say. Unfortunately, bending a straight ring terminal will not work as the terminal length will be too short to get over the lug base plate.

Would it be preferable to move the connection from the battery (as per my current installation - see above photos) to the fuse box lug? Or are we talking semantics and this would make no difference?
The way you have it mounted now,i think you're before the battery fuses. Whats your hang up on trimming a bit of plastic,as you're making this out to be way harder then it needs to be. You could also heat a smaller piece of pipe,and use it to slightly reshape the fuse box base or cover. It's been several years since i did the battery relocation,but i don't remember having any issues mounting a couple bigger battery lugs to the fuse box. I've gave you everything i know to help you out,you're on your own to do it however you want now.
Good luck with whatever you do though.
 
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EViS

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The way you have it mounted now,i think you're before the battery fuses. Whats your hang up on trimming a bit of plastic,as you're making this out to be way harder then it needs to be. You could also heat a smaller piece of pipe,and use it to slightly reshape the fuse box base or cover. It's been several years since i did the battery relocation,but i don't remember having any issues mounting a couple bigger battery lugs to the fuse box. I've gave you everything i know to help you out,you're on your own to do it however you want now.
Good luck with whatever you do though.
I was originally reluctant to trim any plastic from the main fuse box for fear of risking any water ingress. Admittedly, that box isn't all that well sealed.

When you refer to the current setup being "before the battery fuses", does the 80A inline midi fuse, prior to the new blade fuse box, not offer the correct protection? Is this because the short section of cable, between the battery and the midi-fuse holder, is not fused itself?

Can you help me understand why connecting to the fuse box lug would be safer over connecting to the battery? In both scenarios, there would be an 80A inline midi fuse. I'm obviously missing something very obvious here.
 
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