Time for a new engine

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ScottS

ScottS

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What is your budget for the complete overhaul?

Have you decided on a budget for the pistons?

Do you have any insight about what the cylinder walls look like?

The reason I ask is because not every piston manufacturer has all the sizes available. Some make pistons in the standard 3.917" bore size along with a .020" over and that's all they make. Once you find out what it will take to clean up the cylinders it will help aid in your decision for the pistons.

I always recommend a forged piston with any build I do. It's hard to beat the reliability of a forged set of pistons.

The Diamond Pistons #53035 is a solid set. I have used them several times. This is one of the more expensive sets. It is normally in the $830.00 price range.

The DSS FX Series K1-6506-3947 is one I have used multiple times as well with great results. The piston and ring set can be picked up for around
$700-750. Sometimes they can be found cheaper.

Have you decided to do any head work? A 5-angle valve job and come cleanup of the ports will go a long way when it comes to making more power. Like I said earlier, the 5.7 Eagle heads flow very well but even with some minor work they can flow even more.

My overall budget is $6K. With pistons approaching $1K alone, I may have to do the disassembly and reassembly of the engine myself. Not really a problem, just takes time. Thanks for the part numbers. I'll look into both of them and see how the cylinders look when I get it torn down.

I will have the machine shop put hardened valve seats and new springs in for the Comp cam that's on the way. Also have them do a multi angle valve job. Assuming that no appreciable milling of the block or heads has to be done, which head gasket and thickness do you like? I don't want to have to run high octane fuel, so I'm thinking a stock thickness multilayered gasket would be best.
 

Fast69Mopar

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My overall budget is $6K. With pistons approaching $1K alone, I may have to do the disassembly and reassembly of the engine myself. Not really a problem, just takes time. Thanks for the part numbers. I'll look into both of them and see how the cylinders look when I get it torn down.

I will have the machine shop put hardened valve seats and new springs in for the Comp cam that's on the way. Also have them do a multi angle valve job. Assuming that no appreciable milling of the block or heads has to be done, which head gasket and thickness do you like? I don't want to have to run high octane fuel, so I'm thinking a stock thickness multilayered gasket would be best.
Just to make sure we are talking Bout the correct year of the motor in your truck, this is a 2012 model, right?

For head gaskets on the 5.7 Eagle motors I like to use a gasket with a compressed thickness of . 030"

At the machine shop, ask them to verify that the decks of the cylinder heads are straight and true. It's a quick, simple measurement with a quality straight edge.

I would have them do a 5-angle valve job as well
 

burner71

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Good luck on your swap.
Im nearing my swap and excited to see results.
Started with a 2011 durango block, very slightly decked the block.
Racing bearings and rings.
Went with the 6.4 cam.
Slightly ported the headed, back cut all the valves at 25 degrees.
Added mopar performance springs.
Did a slight port to the intake and oversized throttle body.
The reason for the 6.4 cam is after break in to add a supercharger and i hear this cam runs great with it.
Hoping for about 75 extra horses over stock before SC.
 

scott lass 18

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Hello all,

I've been lurking here for a few years and, with some of your expertise, hope my new engine project will help some of you as well. I have a 2012 Big Horn Crew cab, 4x4, 5.7L that I bought new and have had the "hemi tick" from day one. Only regular maintenance and a battery until now. It has been a great truck. It has 210K miles and, last week, lost a lifter and cam lobe on number three literally driving out of the parking lot of the tire shop with new tires, sensors, shocks ($1700). Ugh. But I refuse to have a new truck payment, so I'm all in on keeping this one "forever".

Thought I would keep a running update here on the project for future reference. I am going to pull the engine and have the machine shop tear it down, do all the machine work, and reassemble it. So far I have one of Greene's cams, all new MDS-less lifters, 180F t-stat, Moe's 87mm throttle body, S&B cold air, long tubes, catless y-pipe and Borla muffler. Still waiting on Diablo tuner and will run Greene's tune. Those are all the mods I plan on. No future boost or anything like that. This is a daily work truck.

I would like input on new pistons and rings. I don't like the skimpy skirts on the OEM pistons. Not sure forged are necessary but don't mind if the cost isn't too high. What do you guys run/recommend?

Any particular timing set?

What type and weight oil can/should I use for both initial break-in and after? Seems like I read where someone was having good success eliminating noise and keeping VVT happy with a mixture of weights.

Thanks in advance,
Scott
awww I just buy a new engine and make sure not a mds one ! like newer don't think if a 2016 or newer should not have the problem s ! mine just started the dreadful po 301 misfire new plug still goes on have a coil coming but maybe mean a lifter went soooooo sad 59,000 on it ! truck perfect shape like new too ! think around 4,000 new engine but if like me I want another 100,000 more out of it ! let us know what they find out ok ! I use amsoil too and like every 2,000 miles really **** me off if a lifter went ! dont think dealer well do it free 10 years old now ! sooo sucks right !
 
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ScottS

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Just to make sure we are talking Bout the correct year of the motor in your truck, this is a 2012 model, right?

For head gaskets on the 5.7 Eagle motors I like to use a gasket with a compressed thickness of . 030"

At the machine shop, ask them to verify that the decks of the cylinder heads are straight and true. It's a quick, simple measurement with a quality straight edge.

I would have them do a 5-angle valve job as well

Correct - 2012
Thanks for the info!
 
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ScottS

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awww I just buy a new engine and make sure not a mds one ! like newer don't think if a 2016 or newer should not have the problem s ! mine just started the dreadful po 301 misfire new plug still goes on have a coil coming but maybe mean a lifter went soooooo sad 59,000 on it ! truck perfect shape like new too ! think around 4,000 new engine but if like me I want another 100,000 more out of it ! let us know what they find out ok ! I use amsoil too and like every 2,000 miles really **** me off if a lifter went ! dont think dealer well do it free 10 years old now ! sooo sucks right !

Man, that's way too early for a lifter fail! But it sure sounds like it. I thought about a pre-assembled long block. Jasper sells one for about $6K that carries a nice warranty, but I'm just not comfortable not knowing exactly what internals they are using (bearings, gaskets, lifters, etc.) There are cheaper long blocks out there, but still a mystery as to what internals are used. It'll take a good bit of time and effort on my part to build it myself, but I will get and know exactly what I have.

It's tough not having it running though. Hard to haul ladders and stuff in the wife's Pilot, but I gotta keep making money to stay ahead of this little project. Hopefully be able to get the engine out by Friday or Saturday and see exactly what's going on with the limp cylinder.
 

seabrook

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Good luck on your swap.
Im nearing my swap and excited to see results.
Started with a 2011 durango block, very slightly decked the block.
Racing bearings and rings.
Went with the 6.4 cam.
Slightly ported the headed, back cut all the valves at 25 degrees.
Added mopar performance springs.
Did a slight port to the intake and oversized throttle body.
The reason for the 6.4 cam is after break in to add a supercharger and i hear this cam runs great with it.
Hoping for about 75 extra horses over stock before SC.
Man that sounds interesting, ready to see the results
 
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ScottS

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Finally got the engine out last week. Think I found a great machine shop in Macon. I'll be taking it to him as soon as I get it stripped down to the long block.
Here's a question: Since I'm deleting MDS and replacing the solenoids with plugs, is there any reason to keep that mouse nest foam under the intake? Looks like a family or two had homesteaded next to #8, although one must've slept in too late one morning and got a little overcooked.
 

Hemi395

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Finally got the engine out last week. Think I found a great machine shop in Macon. I'll be taking it to him as soon as I get it stripped down to the long block.
Here's a question: Since I'm deleting MDS and replacing the solenoids with plugs, is there any reason to keep that mouse nest foam under the intake? Looks like a family or two had homesteaded next to #8, although one must've slept in too late one morning and got a little overcooked.
It should be ok to take that out I would assume it's there to keep the heat down on the MDS solenoids...
 

Wild one

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Finally got the engine out last week. Think I found a great machine shop in Macon. I'll be taking it to him as soon as I get it stripped down to the long block.
Here's a question: Since I'm deleting MDS and replacing the solenoids with plugs, is there any reason to keep that mouse nest foam under the intake? Looks like a family or two had homesteaded next to #8, although one must've slept in too late one morning and got a little overcooked.

Probably to late now,but did you price out a new 5.7 from the dealer? Last time I priced out a new 5.7 from the dealer it was a lot less then I thought it would be
 
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ScottS

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How about a new Hellcat payment?

You truck is trying to help you get one.

Funny you should say that. Right before the engine croaked, I was joking around with my son that I was going to get a Hellcat now that the truck is paid off and give him fits with his 300 SRT. He said he guessed the Hellcat was out of the picture for a while now. I said, not really. I got Hellcat lifters in the truck. I'll just put the little catheads on the fenders and give his 300 fits anyway. :D
 
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ScottS

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Probably to late now,but did you price out a new 5.7 from the dealer? Last time I priced out a new 5.7 from the dealer it was a lot less then I thought it would be

I priced Jasper Engines and a couple others, not Mopar. But I couldn't get any particulars on what internal parts they were using and I don't really like not knowing exactly what I'm paying for. Then I figured out I could just go through the current engine and spec everything myself for a little less than one of those turnkey rebuilds. I don't get the warranty, but I do get to add some bolt ons and a cam. That's more fun anyway.
 
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ScottS

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Tore the engine down today and got it to the machine shop. Number three intake lobe and lifter were trashed as expected. Also had two broken exhaust bolts and evidence of leaks, although I never heard the leaks. Also, the VVT solenoid had some holes in a couple of its screens. While I've got it all apart I'm going to go ahead and replace all the block sensors (VVT, crank, knock sensors, oil temp and pressure, etc). Probably not going to replace any up top since they are easier to get to and my budget is reaching its end. Ordered a new radiator, water pump, idler, tensioner and belt kit, hoses, oil pump, and balancer. Debating on a starter since headers might make that a more difficult swap later on. Took Jay's cam kit to the machine shop as well. Just waiting on springs. Hopefully I'll get another 200K+ out of this truck after all of this. It's been a good one.
 

Wild one

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I priced Jasper Engines and a couple others, not Mopar. But I couldn't get any particulars on what internal parts they were using and I don't really like not knowing exactly what I'm paying for. Then I figured out I could just go through the current engine and spec everything myself for a little less than one of those turnkey rebuilds. I don't get the warranty, but I do get to add some bolt ons and a cam. That's more fun anyway.

I was pricing out a brand new 5.7,not a rebuilt,and it was right around 6grand Canuck, that was a couple years ago though,but it was a lot cheaper then I thought it'd be at the time,even a new 6.4 was less then I thought it'd be too,lol.
 
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ScottS

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I was pricing out a brand new 5.7,not a rebuilt,and it was right around 6grand Canuck, that was a couple years ago though,but it was a lot cheaper then I thought it'd be at the time,even a new 6.4 was less then I thought it'd be too,lol.
Looks like you can still get a new Mopar crate engine for around 6K. Not bad since it comes with intake, oil pan, etc. The Jasper Engine is pushing 6K and it's a reman. I guess we're supposed to feel better since they give it a 100K warranty, but then they won't honor the warranty unless one of their "approved" installers puts it in.
 

cheffrank_357

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hem 5.7
Just had my engine replaced for 3k
Out the door!
Down in hiealeh florida
5.7 hemi
2006 ram quad 147k miles
Prob need a tranny soon?
But hey its better than a payment...
Left everything stock
They specialize in hemis and advertise 2.5 k to replace
But i needed ? A water pump and a couple of other things?? Whatever i didnt care heck its only 3k for a brand new rebuilt engine right? Installed! btw
I live in so fla so i replaced the radiator
3k for new engine
1k for paint
500 for lights and carpet and radiator...
Cant beat that with a dead ford emblem!

f0495ca1a55ea370087b493dfa3655b5.jpg

Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk
 
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ScottS

ScottS

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Just had my engine replaced for 3k
Out the door!
Down in hiealeh florida
5.7 hemi
2006 ram quad 147k miles
Prob need a tranny soon?
But hey its better than a payment...
Left everything stock
They specialize in hemis and advertise 2.5 k to replace
But i needed ? A water pump and a couple of other things?? Whatever i didnt care heck its only 3k for a brand new rebuilt engine right? Installed! btw
I live in so fla so i replaced the radiator
3k for new engine
1k for paint
500 for lights and carpet and radiator...
Cant beat that with a dead ford emblem!

f0495ca1a55ea370087b493dfa3655b5.jpg

Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk
Not bad at all. What sort of warranty did you get?
 
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