To Cummins or not to Cummins?

[MarshRam]

Did some digging around and made an edit to my original post. Getting closer, maybe???

Do the following:

1) DPF Delete
2) Install a CCV delete/reroute kit. Will consider reroute to a catch can and ensure it is checked very frequently. Or, go with an exhaust reroute kit.
3) Change oil every 6 months, or around 3-4K miles, whichever comes first.
4) Habitually warm the truck in forced high idle mode for a few minutes before taking those small trips every time.
5) Preferably weekly, but no less than every two weeks, just take it for that 45 minute highway drive. For 6 to 8 month out of the year, I do typically take a 1 hour drive each way every week to one of our favorite beaches, but much of the trip is at an average of 50-55mph with just about 10 minutes at 75mph and another 15 minutes doing about 35mph. This is real borderline here and I don't think it fully fits the weekly "Italian tune-up". I'll would need to pay attention to my temps here to see what happens. Otherwise, I just need to go for that highway drive.

I'm glad I'm on this early so I can really think about this before pulling the trigger early next year. I may just end up with a 6.4 and If I end up putting 500K miles or more on it, then I'll just live with the potential of replacing an engine and tranny or two along the way. Not preferred though.

 

[Docwagon1776]

Did some digging around and made an edit to my original post. Getting closer, maybe???

Do the following:

1) DPF Delete
2) Install a CCV delete/reroute kit. Will consider reroute to a catch can and ensure it is checked very frequently. Or, go with an exhaust reroute kit.
3) Change oil every 6 months, or around 3-4K miles, whichever comes first.
4) Habitually warm the truck in forced high idle mode for a few minutes before taking those small trips every time.
5) Preferably weekly, but no less than every two weeks, just take it for that 45 minute highway drive. For 6 to 8 month out of the year, I do typically take a 1 hour drive each way every week to one of our favorite beaches, but much of the trip is at an average of 50-55mph with just about 10 minutes at 75mph and another 15 minutes doing about 35mph. This is real borderline here and I don't think it fully fits the weekly "Italian tune-up". I'll would need to pay attention to my temps here to see what happens. Otherwise, I just need to go for that highway drive.

I'm glad I'm on this early so I can really think about this before pulling the trigger early next year. I may just end up with a 6.4 and If I end up putting 500K miles or more on it, then I'll just live with the potential of replacing an engine and tranny or two along the way. Not preferred though.

Do you honestly think high idle from a cold start is a good thing for any engine's longevity?

Lot of stuff to try and make that square peg fit...

 

[Islander39er]

You are worrying about the heart of someone whose dreams are about running marathons ….. but who sits in the recliner almost exclusively and watches TV.
The answer is “Yes”…. his heart is likely to fail…. Not because heart muscle cannot do the job…. but because the arteries which feed that heart can not stand that level of activity.

Diesels are capable of hard work and longevity…as long as they are used for that purpose.

A gasser is better-suited to what you describe you intend….and cheaper to re-build if you ever wear it out.

100%

 

[MarshRam]

Do you honestly think high idle from a cold start is a good thing for any engine's longevity?

Lot of stuff to try and make that square peg fit...

I don't know? I definitely don't do that to my HEMI, but all I know is HEMI. If doing that once or twice a week is detrimental, then no, I wouldn't do it. So is it implied everything else combined I mentioned is worthless in mitigating such issues? It may just boil down to I drive it once a week as intended. It will not be a daily driver at all, I have other vehicles. However, if I only do a once a week drive, I need to see if that is sufficient to avoid fuel degradation and clogging filter/destroying pump. I would think once a week might be just fine, but I'm not sure. I'm in FL, so lots of humidity.

 

[Docwagon1776]

I don't know? I definitely don't do that to my HEMI, but all I know is HEMI. If doing that once or twice a week is detrimental, then no, I wouldn't do it. So is it implied everything else combined I mentioned is worthless in mitigating such issues? It may just boil down to I drive it once a week as intended. It will not be a daily driver at all, I have other vehicles. However, if I only do a once a week drive, I need to see if that is sufficient to avoid fuel degradation and clogging filter/destroying pump. I would think once a week might be just fine, but I'm not sure. I'm in FL, so lots of humidity.

Best of luck.

 

[MarshRam]

Best of luck.

LOL Doc, thanks!

 

[06 Dodge]

Did some digging around and made an edit to my original post. Getting closer, maybe???

Do the following:

1) DPF Delete
2) Install a CCV delete/reroute kit. Will consider reroute to a catch can and ensure it is checked very frequently. Or, go with an exhaust reroute kit.
3) Change oil every 6 months, or around 3-4K miles, whichever comes first.
4) Habitually warm the truck in forced high idle mode for a few minutes before taking those small trips every time.
5) Preferably weekly, but no less than every two weeks, just take it for that 45 minute highway drive. For 6 to 8 month out of the year, I do typically take a 1 hour drive each way every week to one of our favorite beaches, but much of the trip is at an average of 50-55mph with just about 10 minutes at 75mph and another 15 minutes doing about 35mph. This is real borderline here and I don't think it fully fits the weekly "Italian tune-up". I'll would need to pay attention to my temps here to see what happens. Otherwise, I just need to go for that highway drive.

I'm glad I'm on this early so I can really think about this before pulling the trigger early next year. I may just end up with a 6.4 and If I end up putting 500K miles or more on it, then I'll just live with the potential of replacing an engine and tranny or two along the way. Not preferred though.

By using a quality 5w40 oil a Cummins should easily be able to go 10K or 1 year oil change intervals, doing so an oil change every 3-4 K would be a big waste of money, as for warming it up in cold weather they come with a block heart, put it on a timer for it to come on 2-4 hours before you plan the first start up of the day, yes block heater do help speed engine warm up time. Yes taking 45 minute drives several times a week should help keep the DPF happy, their be no need to drive X number of minutes at 75 and then another number of minutes at 55, btw I'm speaking as an owner of a 22 Cummins so I have a good idea of what it takes to keep my DPF happy...

 

[MarshRam]

Thanks @06 Dodge . I live in FL, so I don't think the block heater is going to serve much purpose, maybe just for a couple months during the winter season. DPF will be deleted, regardless if I'm driving it as it should or not. I just feel it would make sense to do those oil changes more often, strictly because of potential moisture buildup. Then maybe there is some help from a lift pump/fuel air separator to aid with the moisture problem in fuel area. Also, it wouldn't be hard for me to just keep the tank topped off all the time and drain the WIF separator as needed. The crappy thing about all this, is as soon as I move to my next home, all of this goes away. I'll be farther from town and will be on property doing projects where the truck will get it's use there and in a longer commute. +++ for even a few years down the line, where traveling around more often will be in the life experience. I just don't know when or even if this mortgage environment is going to get better for my last and final move to make sense. Could be a year, could be 5 years, could be never. If never, I'm pulling the trigger regardless, but that would be more like a 3-5 year out plan. In the meantime, I'm looking at every way to mitigate until then.

Thanks for bringing up the block heater though, I hadn't known of that. May not be super beneficial to me, but could for someone else looking at this topic. Not a single person has mentioned anything about what I edited in my original post as mitigation options, except for high idle, at least it was implied as not a good idea and the information was much appreciated. If all of it is pointless, then everyone can just say, people are wasting there money on all of it and all that info you pulled from years of posts on this forum is nonsense talk. I wish everyone would quit thinking this is some sort of wet dream I'm having or something. Maybe my lifelong approach of setting my future self up and "problems are opportunities for solutions" is not serving me well here. Thanks again!

 

[Gr8bawana]

I don't know? I definitely don't do that to my HEMI, but all I know is HEMI. If doing that once or twice a week is detrimental, then no, I wouldn't do it. So is it implied everything else combined I mentioned is worthless in mitigating such issues? It may just boil down to I drive it once a week as intended. It will not be a daily driver at all, I have other vehicles. However, if I only do a once a week drive, I need to see if that is sufficient to avoid fuel degradation and clogging filter/destroying pump. I would think once a week might be just fine, but I'm not sure. I'm in FL, so lots of humidity.

 

[MarshRam]

MarshRam, If you're going to do it anyway, now that you know the good and *potential* bad's, it's probably a matter of planning your days/drives to ensure you get it out on the hwy periodically for somewhat longer drives to keep the engine healthy. Maybe that incudes taking it to truck shows/cruises/cars&coffee, a bit further away on weekends to show off your mods. Or visiting friends/family a little further away a little more often. Or taking that little-longer drive to visit/see some local sites in some other state you've been 'thinking' about doing someday ...with your significant other/kids or whatever.

Whatever it look like...if you can weave a few longer drives 1/2hr+ (and a few even longer than that once in a while) between those short trips, you should be ok.

@Jeepwalker If the consensus is, I can do a once in a week sufficient trip + do everything else I mentioned, I'm good with that. I'd just like to know what the general consensus is, "I'll more than likely be very good", never any guarantees from anyone, I understand. It's all about if these mitigation efforts make sense and the "consensus" is, your probably good to go! Thank you for your input. I have no problem heading out once a week for whatever and ditching the projects I put myself thru for a day. That's how I can force myself to take a break and have a great excuse for it! If that is what I need to do, it wasn't part of the future routine plans, but so be it. In hindsight, it actually sounds easier and more enjoyable than half the routine maintenance I looked up to mitigate. LOL. I've been here ten years now and learned so much about my HEMI's, it has paid off beyond explanation. I appreciate the help with my illiteracy and dive into a new venture.

 

[MarshRam]

If you buy new or nearly new, might be worthwhile to shoot for a lifetime powertrain warranty deal since you plan to keep it a while. Considering the cost of maintenance, might realy pay off in your case.

I'm an honest person, go as far as refraining from screwing people who screw everyone over at every opportunity. But, this is a genius solution. I never buy absolutely brand new and always try to avoid buying from a dealership. But, I do buy close to new and could consider the warranty route, and if I have to buy the vehicle from a dealership for some extra $$, it is what it is. I could skip all aforementioned mods and purchase a warranty. If something goes wrong, it get's fixed with the money I put in the warranty and not the mods. That actually might be cheaper. I'm going to throw this in the contemplation bucket and explore my moralmeter and see what happens. Thanks!

 

[Ritchie_Rich]

OP, gas truck for what you intend to use it for. Can’t say I know anyone who has kept a vehicle for 40yrs, much less put 1 million miles on it. But, it’s your money.

 

[jejb]

I'm an honest person, go as far as refraining from screwing people who screw everyone over at every opportunity. But, this is a genius solution. I never buy absolutely brand new and always try to avoid buying from a dealership. But, I do buy close to new and could consider the warranty route, and if I have to buy the vehicle from a dealership for some extra $$, it is what it is. I could skip all aforementioned mods and purchase a warranty. If something goes wrong, it get's fixed with the money I put in the warranty and not the mods. That actually might be cheaper. I'm going to throw this in the contemplation bucket and explore my moralmeter and see what happens. Thanks!

The Mopar extended warranty does not cover the DPF's. If you go aftermarket for a warranty contract, read the fine print carefully.

 

[man n black]

ok so I'll chime in.....
One downer for you.....You will not retain value in the mods of your current truck..They just arent worth anything in the used market. Condition and mileage rules.

My first RAM was a hemi 5.9 1500 2wd....Saw lots of highway miles. replace cats at 65K miles.

My second a 2008 6.7 Cummins Bighorn 4x4. Lifted and tuned but not deleted (bc Cali emissions testing).....Highway queen...Towed nothing heavy...Never a problem traded in at 185K miles.

My last RAM (In my avatar)....a 2013 6.7 Cummins Laramie 4x4..my forever truck when I bought it new in Dec 2012.

Deleted and tuned at 1500 miles from new (bc we moved to no emissions area)....Heavily modified throughout its lifetime (FULL Thuren, 37s, Airlocker, Billet front diff components, stereo). It mostly sat in in the driveway and or was driven for about 10-15 minutes at a time unless we were travelling because we lived in a small mountain town. A few times a year, towed extensively (8K plus TTs, work trailers and WakeBoat) all over the USA and Canada, primarily the Rocky Mountains. Was used towards the end of life as a towed vehicle behind our motor coach and to tow our boat.

A 13 yr relationship with a 120K miles on the clock, I traded her in last year on a '26 Yukon AT4 with the 6.2 because we need something lighter to tow behind the coach that could still pull our wakeboat out of the water. The Cummins retained the best value of all our vehicles by a large margin. ONLY emergency mechanical problem it ever had was due to a maintencence tech screw up (front diff). Even then it broke 100 yds from the house after pulling our TT to (and from) Atlanta to Colorado.

I see you're in Florida. IF a large TT, Center Console or Wake boat beyond 22ft on your future radar the Cummins is a MUST. Excellent towing platform (search my other posts on the matter). The Yukon gets pushed all over by our wake boat where with the Cummins it wasnt even felt. The exhaust brake IS worth the money spent for the diesel up front on its own, and having the pickup bed is MUCH better for just moving general things around than the Yukon.

Although our new Yukon is slightly better, the Cummins is AN EXCELLENT cross country vehicle, even unloaded, and was our first pick if we were driving long distances (Colorado or Bama to Cali for instance) with the Laramie a very pleasant place to be for miles on end.

Would I do it again?

1000 percent yes. (in fact I've recently been on the lookout for a nice lightly used diesel unit), the 1 caveat is I would NOT modify so extensively. It made the Ram too niche and one sided which became somewhat of a problem later in its life.

YMMV,
Ch

 

[David Oakes]

I don't know if you can force it to or not, never looked in to it. You aren't supposed to shut it off during a regen, and remember it's dumping more fuel in to artificially raise the temperature so you're introducing more fuel dilution.

Not sure where you get fuel dilution? For a regen, fuel is injected directly into the dpf assembly (doc specifically). The fuel that is used to run the engine is already (mostly) expended at that time.

Bear in mind 2022-2024 Cummins require $$$$ ECM swap to tune and/or delete. It appears that 2025+ are locked down even tighter

There is now a company that can reprogram your 2022-2024 ecm, just have to send it away for about two weeks. I don't have the details handy but they are googleable.

2025+ may never be deletable, their ecm requires ota update capability and will go into degraded mode immediately if it isn't possible on startup, this would delete your tune/reprogramming every time there was an update. Older ecms also won't work as their connectors and the Atlantis wiring architecture is completely different.

For this reason, MarshRam would have to find a pre-2009 no emissions truck to not have to delete, a 2024 or earlier truck to do a delete, or drive a 2025+ truck much harder than he is currently planning which would definitely make the 6.4 gasser a better option for him.

 

[edsamue57]

EGR delete on a Cummings is not advised. EGR is essential for the diesel to run cooler and longer life. It's not just for emissions. Short runs only mean you will use a little more DEF fluid to clean the system. This is due to the particulate filter doesn't reach the temperature needed to clean itself naturally without DEF. Also removing the EGR will void any warranty. Allowing a it to idle after first start will buy you nothing in longevity and only waste fuel and increase DEF usage. Driving every once in awhile on the highway also doesn't really help except use more gas which is far more expensive then using DEF fluid to do the same job.

 

[2016 2500]

my first question is why do you want a new truck? can you be happy with a truck 3 to 5 years old? I have a 2016 crew cab slt if I was going to replace it I might get a more optioned 2019 to 2021 but I would not go new for many of the reasons people have already mentioned, deletes are the one thing that I was adamant about first thing and that worked out great I bought the truck to pull with but I have not pulled in 3 years or so now I used my truck for every day, or not even every day driving grocery shopping errands appointments etc and my truck is happy as can be

 

[2016 2500]

There is now a company that can reprogram your 2022-2024 ecm, just have to send it away for about two weeks. I don't have the details handy but they are googleable.

2025+ may never be deletable, their ecm requires ota update capability and will go into degraded mode immediately if it isn't possible on startup, this would delete your tune/reprogramming every time there was an update. Older ecms also won't work as their connectors and the Atlantis wiring architecture is completely different.

For this reason, MarshRam would have to find a pre-2009 no emissions truck to not have to delete, a 2024 or earlier truck to do a delete, or drive a 2025+ truck much harder than he is currently planning which would definitely make the 6.4 gasser a better option for him.

I would think this is the start of subscription based services and for sure the lost of right to repair, I hope they get slapped with a huge lawsuit and I hope the people decide to abandon buying into this

 

[Bramic71]

I'm looking to get my next truck. Want it for the next 20-40 years. Will likely put 250k-500K miles on it, could be a million, I don't know what the future holds. However, current 5 year forecast says I will drive it in 10 minute intervals a day on the freeway 3 times a week. A few miles around town here and there and then it will just sit on average. Am I really going to destroy this engine by doing that, as implied in many comments I have seen. That does defeat the purpose of why I want to get a diesel, longevity. What is more than likely going to fail and the headaches involved? My neighbor recently bought a 1 owner ford diesel that was 26 years old and had 90K miles on the original engine, truck was immaculate. Seemed to run like a brand new vehicle to me, but I don't know what that owner went through on that engine. The other option is to try and own a 6.4 for 20-40 years and try and put a million miles on it. What's going to be worse? Or, maybe Ford makes better diesels? LOL.....


7/17/26 Edit: I will do a delete/tune to avoid DPF clogging.

7/18/26 Edit: I did some research and I think I'm getting closer to feasibility here.

1) DPF Delete
2) Install a CCV delete/reroute kit. Will consider reroute to a catch can and ensure it is checked very frequently. Or, go with an exhaust reroute kit.
3) Change oil every 6 months, or around 3-4K miles, whichever comes first.
4) Habitually warm the truck in forced high idle mode for a few minutes before taking those small trips every time.
5) Preferably weekly, but no less than every two weeks, just take it for that 45 minute highway drive. For 6 to 8 month out of the year, I do typically take a 1 hour drive each way every week to one of our favorite beaches, but much of the trip is at an average of 50-55mph with just about 10 minutes at 75mph and another 15 minutes doing about 35mph. This is real borderline here and I don't think it fully fits the weekly "Italian tune-up". I'll need to pay attention to my temps here to see what happens. Otherwise, I just need to go for that highway drive.

I'm glad I'm on this early so I can really think about this before pulling the trigger early next year. I may just end up with a 6.4 and If I end up putting 500K miles or more on it, then I'll just live with the potential of replacing an engine and tranny or two along the way. Not preferred though.

Personally, I would say not to Cummins unless it's a pre-emissions truck. With what you are explaining, I would go gas. We have a 6.7 Cummins but we travel the nation working while very frequently pulling our 8k camper. Does everything we need it to, across the plains and through the mountains. Makes our travels a non-white knuckle experience. Good luck on your decision.

 

[Docwagon1776]

Not sure where you get fuel dilution? For a regen, fuel is injected directly into the dpf assembly (doc specifically). The fuel that is used to run the engine is already (mostly) expended at that time.

Because it idles higher during a regen mode as well, to keep temps up, so it's also injecting more fuel into the cylinders if you force a regen cycle while parked or if you just come to a stop during any regen cycle. If the newest ones also adjust driving rpm and shift points to keep temps up under light loads as well, I don't know and don't care enough to look.