Ignore the camper dry weight completely and ignore towing capacity for the truck. Dry weight is no longer accurate the second it leaves the mfg. You'll never get near tow capacity with a camper because most of the weight is fixed. Tow capacity is more applicable on flatbeds where the weight can be shifted to lighten the tongue.
Focus on the truck payload, truck rear axle rating, and the pin weight of the camper. Those are the 3 numbers you need.
This is how you do it without going to a CAT scale (which I do recommend for specific numbers):
On the camper, find the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating sticker. THAT is the maximum your camper should be able to weigh (if you don't overload it), including the cargo capacity. If it doesn't list that number, find the dry weight and the cargo capacity sticker. Add those 2 together for the GVWR.To ballpark calculate pin weight of the camper, multiply the GVWR of the trailer x 20%. THAT is roughly what the weight of the trailer could be sitting on the truck.
It will look something like this and is typically just behind the propane door on the driverside of the fifth wheel, but sometimes it can be up by the pinbox:

For the truck, look inside the door for the sticker that says payload capacity. THAT is the payload of your specific truck (every one is different) before you add any aftermarket accessories or put anything inside the truck.
Figure out the weight of all passengers and any additional cargo and/or accessories. Find out the weight of the 5th wheel hitch. Subtract those 2 numbers from the payload number. That number is the remaining available truck payload.
It will look something like this:
If the estimated pin weight of the trailer is more than the available payload, you're over. If it's under, you're good. If you're over the available payload, but under rear axle rating, you're potentially ok however I personally like to say under all numbers. Being new, I suggest not exceeding either one. Do not exceed that rear axle rating under any circumstances.
This is essentially all you need to do to get an estimate, but I'd always suggest running it across a CAT scale and getting real weights.
IF you're over... don't assume that adding airbags, beefing up springs, etc.. will increase your payload capacity. They don't. 2500 diesels have very little payload and are typically better suited for travel trailers but some lighter fifth wheels are ok.