I just got a new travel trailer 29ft 6500lbs dry weight. When towing my coolant temp stays between 200 and 215 but my trans runs between 180 n 190. How does that sound? I also have the 8 spd trans. I usually lockout 7th n 8th when towing. Is that a good idea? I'm also thinking about airbags for the rear. Do u think it is worth the money?
towing readout help
- Thread starter brianf40
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Ricks Ram
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Most people complain about high engine oil Temps not transmission. I think 180 to 190 is acceptable. Your truck will warn you if the Trans temp gets to high. The air bags are a good idea. I have not installed them on mine yet but my friend put them in his and said it made pretty big difference.
MADDOG
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Locking out 7th and 8th works pretty good in hilly country but if it's flat, I'd go full auto to save on fuel.
I have the self leveling airbags and I'm glad I do. It's nice to level out when bed weight or tongue weight makes the rear sag a bit.
I have the self leveling airbags and I'm glad I do. It's nice to level out when bed weight or tongue weight makes the rear sag a bit.
cableguy_hd
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My temps run cooler ( I have 6 spd )
When I use tow/haul mode. I stay @ 160 with the same weight or more. I run 180 ish when I don't hit the button
When I use tow/haul mode. I stay @ 160 with the same weight or more. I run 180 ish when I don't hit the button
6.7CumminsDrvr
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My trans temp is always around 190ish, unloaded, city driving or highway. As stated above, the 8 speed is set to *** warmer than what we are "traditionally" used to.
PippinAin'tEasy
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Ditto lockout 7&8 city and hills. Temps all sound nermal. Can't go wrong with bags or springs imo. All depends on your budget/labor investment. Happy haulin'!
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Upthewazzu
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Just use tow/haul and don't worry about manually locking out 7 & 8, it'll do the brain-work for you.
I put air lift 1000's in for my 4500lb (dry) 650lb tongue weight (dry) trailer and it does a fantastic job keeping it more than level.
I put air lift 1000's in for my 4500lb (dry) 650lb tongue weight (dry) trailer and it does a fantastic job keeping it more than level.
silver surfer
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Just bought the airlift 1000s for my 2015 1500 QC. Need to get them in before I tow my tt to Sturgis. Any tips?
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Remove rubber nipple and deflate completely. Replace rubber nipple and stick 'em in a bucket of hot water. Makes 'em squishy and easier to feed through the springs. Attach the airline through the spacer donut before you slide them (the bags) fully into place, say a little more than 3/4 of the way in. It's a knuckle buster if'n you don't. I'd tell you to pull the the tires and the plastic well fenders before you get started, others say don't bother and work them from underneath. I did 'em both ways and pulling the wheels seemed easier. Stay tuned. Plenty more tips should start rolling in shortly.
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cableguy_hd
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squeeze all the air out. I used zip ties and folded it like a taco and tied it up. jack up the FRAME of the truck ( wont say what I did first but I invented a few cuss words ). take wheel well out. It'll make it easier I think. Push into springs, cut ties and let it open up. Run lines. I used a tee some use individual lines. theres a square opening on the factory hitch I put my valve.
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I strongly suggest cutting the line in half and attaching it and the line clamps before you put the bags into the springs. Having tried both ways, I also strongly suggest NOT using the 'T' fitting, and using a schraeder valve per line.
The last time I did installed the bags (long story) I was nearly in tears of frustration trying to get the line clamps securely over the nipple/line through the coils.
The last time I did installed the bags (long story) I was nearly in tears of frustration trying to get the line clamps securely over the nipple/line through the coils.
audio1der
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There are really only a couple options to rid your truck of sag.
-upgrade springs: Mostly TTC, cost $300'ish
Pros: Always ready to go, never have an air leak, easy to install
Cons: More $$, changes the ride quality of the truck permanently
-add airbags: Airlift, Firestone, cost $79
Pros: Only use when you need, easy install, cheap $$
Cons: potential for air leak
You can use Timbren SES which is about halfway between the two above cost-wise. They replace the bumpstops. SUPER easy install. But they only engage if the truck sags to the level where you've used all the travel, and then you ride on them. The ride for use was so bad I took them out and re-sold them after 1-way trip. It was just AWFUL.
I never thought I'd be an air guy, but keeping the ride quality of the truck most of the time, ease of install, price and dependability can't be beat.
Now that our truck is a tow-only I'd rather have the springs, but I hope this gives some insight from someone who went through some of it and has had the rear springs out more time than he'd like to remember.
-upgrade springs: Mostly TTC, cost $300'ish
Pros: Always ready to go, never have an air leak, easy to install
Cons: More $$, changes the ride quality of the truck permanently
-add airbags: Airlift, Firestone, cost $79
Pros: Only use when you need, easy install, cheap $$
Cons: potential for air leak
You can use Timbren SES which is about halfway between the two above cost-wise. They replace the bumpstops. SUPER easy install. But they only engage if the truck sags to the level where you've used all the travel, and then you ride on them. The ride for use was so bad I took them out and re-sold them after 1-way trip. It was just AWFUL.
I never thought I'd be an air guy, but keeping the ride quality of the truck most of the time, ease of install, price and dependability can't be beat.
Now that our truck is a tow-only I'd rather have the springs, but I hope this gives some insight from someone who went through some of it and has had the rear springs out more time than he'd like to remember.
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1) Do you have the heavy duty oil cooler that comes with the towing package?
2) What rear gears do you have?
2) What rear gears do you have?
Engine temps run higher now in newer vehicles for smog reasons. My 5.7 2014 Ram 1500 runs at about 205 and the 6 speed trans at about 190 and oil at about 230. I do run Rolya Purple synthetic oil always and change between 3000 and 4000 miles regardless of what the manual says. Just think about what makes oil black so when it turns dark we all know what it's circulating in the engine.
I tow a fair amount and I just use the Factory Tow Haul button and let the electronics do the decision making. I'm sure it just locks out my 6th gear as that's an overdrive and not meant for towing. The truck still tows nicely and I maintain my speed at 55, maybe because I'm an old fart or maybe because it does help keep the gas usage somewhat under control at 10 MPG when towing my camper.
I like the air bags allot but I have after market rear coils too. I don't like the idea of trusting only the air bags to keep things level. If an airline or bag fails and you're depending on that to keep things level you may find yourself in trouble when you can't afford to be in trouble. Yes, it is a belt and suspenders approach but then again I am an old fart.
I tow a fair amount and I just use the Factory Tow Haul button and let the electronics do the decision making. I'm sure it just locks out my 6th gear as that's an overdrive and not meant for towing. The truck still tows nicely and I maintain my speed at 55, maybe because I'm an old fart or maybe because it does help keep the gas usage somewhat under control at 10 MPG when towing my camper.
I like the air bags allot but I have after market rear coils too. I don't like the idea of trusting only the air bags to keep things level. If an airline or bag fails and you're depending on that to keep things level you may find yourself in trouble when you can't afford to be in trouble. Yes, it is a belt and suspenders approach but then again I am an old fart.
