Transmission Woes (and haven't been on in a while)

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Wulf

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Haven't been on in a while, sorry. Now on to the meat of this thread. Also, sorry for the wall of text, but this is the chain of events up to now.

Update on my '21 Ram Warlock (Blue). Back in Feb (Feb 1st, specifically) this year (2024), took it for the regular oil change, and the mechanic called me over to show me what turned out to be a wet transmission pan. Given that the fluid was not red, I had thought it was from the transfer case (yes Blue is 4x4), as I remember ATF usually being red, but then I also remember automatic transmissions having a dip stick where the driver could put their own fluid in if needed. Wrong on both counts.

I was planning on taking it to work that day, but ended up calling the dealer I bought it new from (will call Repair A to keep it simpler) and get it fixed under warranty, as I have a lot less than the 60k standard warranty at 32-33k on the odometer. That was Feb 12 (according to the receipt).

They also fixed a couple of other issues I had with it (back up camera freezing with curved lines, and not wanting to start occasionally) and I had to end up waiting like a week (Feb 19th is date it was 'finished', don't remember if I picked it up that day or the next) or so to get it back, due to 'waiting on parts'. Thankfully, I was able to make other arrangements to get back and forth to work while Blue was down.

A couple of days after I get it back, on my way home from work (2nd shift, so, it was dark outside), at the end of the off ramp from the highway, I notice a huge cloud of smoke from around my truck, and a burning oil smell, but not the usual burned oil smell. I had smelled the same thing the night before the oil change, but thought it was a truck that had just gone by, not realizing then that it was probably me.

As soon as I got home, I looked underneath and the transmission pan is wet, the cross member has what look like drips ready to fall. So I once again park the truck and make plans to use alternate transportation. I call Repair A (the dealer) the next day before work, set up another appointment, and get it to them again (Feb 22) to finish repairing what they apparently didn't get right on the trans the first time.

They 'take a look' and find nothing wrong with it, and try telling me that it is likely 'residual fluid' left over from before. With the cloud of smoke that came out that night, it is anything but 'residual'. So I tell them to take another look, I get it back after a couple of days (receipt date Feb 23, which was the day they called and said it was 'ready', not when I got it back), and because I want to take a better look, I park Blue at home and take my other transportation to work that day. When I get home that night, I take Blue out, and try to simulate driving to work (rough guess at driving conditions, time, etc.), at least 1 way, and guess what, problem NOT solved. I get Blue back home, and while I am looking underneath, not only is the transmission pan and crossmember wet, it drips like 5 times in the space of about 30 seconds. For the record, getting down and looking underneath is not an easy task for me due to various joint issues. This is the biggest reason I no longer change my own oil and do basic maintenance on my vehicles.

At this point, I am thinking Repair A has had their shot, TWICE, and are either unable to fix the transmission issue with their skill level, or worse, incompetent. I end up calling Repair B (another CDJ dealer that is closer to home), and explain the situation, and what I am experiencing, and they agree to take a look. After a phone call from them requesting to talk to Repair A, along with a $240 diagnostic charge, which I am thinking Repair A should pay since they couldn't find the problem, and doesn't want to pay, I get Blue back again. During the follow up conversation with Repair B, I find out that when they took the inspection port plug out (or whatever they called it), fluid came pouring out, and according to them, that wasn't supposed to happen. I know I didn't put the extra fluid in, and the only other people who would have been in a position to do so are the mechanics at Repair A. According to what Repair B told me of their conversation with Repair A, the reason this fluid came out was either the customer (me) put it in, or Repair B didn't know what the hell they were doing. Repair A also said, by way of what B told me, that they had it on the lift and ran it for hours with no issues. I have not independently talked to Repair A to verify any of this, because in all honesty, I just want Blue back, and drivable. Maybe after I get her back, I will try to get to the bottom of all of this "they said this, the other place said that" mess.

So anyway, I take her to work, and back home, with no apparent issues. Possibly this time due to hitting the light at the end of the off ramp just right. I get home, and look under and see more fluid dripping. At this point, it seems to me that no one can find the problem. So I call Repair B again, drop Blue off, and let them have another crack at it. Oh, the first time they had it, Repair B told me they drove it up and down the nearby main road, and didn't find any issues, so this time, mostly to make sure I wasn't just losing my mind or imagining things, I gave them verbal permission by way of a voice mail for them to drive it on the highway, to better recreate the conditions that I think could have caused the problem with the leaking tranny.

Apparently, that was what was needed because they found the issue showed up this time, and this was all without me getting the truck back yet, so I couldn't have added fluid to it, even if I knew how at the time. According to what Repair B told me this time, the problem was a "porous casting", and the transmission would be replaced under warranty. That's all well and good, but I have been without Blue for going on two months now, and I have called every week or every other week, with little to no progress on getting her back. At first, the reason given by Repair B was due to not having some account code, or permission code or something before they could even order the transmission. I don't remember now for sure what they specifically said. But now, as of last Thursday ( Apr 25th) about 3PM local time (East Coast US), they (Repair B) hadn't heard from Chrysler (their word) in a couple of days, and were going to call them again.

I do not want to publicly slam a specific repair shop or dealer without giving them the chance to explain themselves, which is why I am not saying specifics as to who Repair A is in this mass of text, nor Repair B (since it won't take much to figure out who the players are from this info) but I need my truck back, sooner rather than later, and I do not want this to turn into a similar situation I read someone else had that didn't get their truck back for something like 9 months.

If there is someone out there that can expedite Repair B in getting the replacement transmission for Blue, please contact me directly, and I will give all relevant information I have.

Also, and I know this has been said before, even the people you would expect to know these vehicles the best (dealer's repair shops) don't always have it figured out. Beware who you take your vehicles to.
 
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EdGs

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On the ZF 8HP, if they removed the transmission fill plug with the truck not running, fluid Will gush out. The OE fluid is green, and turns dark fairly quick.

(I would like to believe that a dealer service dept would know this.)

Also, the transmission has to be level when checking. The rear tires have to be off the ground a good 9 or 10 inches to reach level.

If fluid dripped on the crossover pipe, makes me think the pan drain plug may be slightly loose, and if fluid is running down from the edges of the pan, would seem to be loose bolts or a bad gasket. Or, both. Or, all three.

Never heard of a porous casting, but it would have to be pretty damn porous to leak. But anything is possible.

Wish you the best on your repairs.
 
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Wulf

Wulf

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Thanks.

The mechanic at Repair B has reportedly been working on Dodges for 30+ years, and from what the service manager at B told me, they read through the procedures they are supposed to do, according to CDJ Central's (my name for them) instructions, with Repair A as well, and everyone on that end is on the same page. And I am well aware these trucks are sold as RAMs, but everyone knows, they are still a Dodge.

It is not leaking immediately, but after highway driving (with the resultant build up of temperature and pressure, I would presume) home from work, about 20-30 mins or so.

On the "simulated to work" drive I mentioned above, I drove to a "nearby" gas station, such that the round trip would approximate the time and distance of driving it would take me to get either to or from work if I drove straight through, so that I would hopefully be able to recreate the issue. Fortunately, or unfortunately, it was enough to cause the "leak" to re-appear.

That was also why I told Repair B to drive it on the highway, because apparently, their test methods they normally use would not be enough to recreate the problem, which is always frustrating when they "don't find anything".

Edit: I found out about the green tranny fluid because of this problem, and also something I do not know if anyone else who only deals with this occasionally will know. The fluid glows a little under black light. I wiped some off of the bottom of the pan, and the cross member, mostly to show it was still leaking, and since it was night time when I did this, I had a flash light on me so I could see what I was doing. The flash light I was using has multiple modes (one of which is black light), and when I was cycling it through to turn it off, I saw the paper towel I was using glowing in spots that had the fluid on it. Turned it back on to that setting, and confirmed it; was kind of neat to be able to see it.
 
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EdGs

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Definately strange happenings.

The transmission fluid must expand quite a bit because in order to check the fluid level properly, the transmission temperature MUST be between 86° and 122°, along with the tramsmission being level (it's really easy to see how much the transmission is angled downward in our trucks).

Did you see any evidence of fluid running out of the body of the transmission? Or the pan rail?

Maybe once the truck is warm, things move enough for the leak to start. Theres only so many places it can run out, and can't be under too much pressure when it does, or you would lose alot more fluid, and quicker, IMO.
 
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ConorToot

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If Ram is still a Dodge, then I have a Chrysler. Same engineering as the K-Car.
I shouldn't say that though because as I began modifying and de-Chrysler-ing it, it's actually becoming a really fun truck to drive and its probably better now at 210k miles than it was when it was new.
After working for over a year to solve the mystery of a traction control light and a C121E fault code that led to me replacing the entire brake system with mostly AC Delco and other racing style or better quality modifications to the brakes, I also replaced the entire suspension as I found almost every bushing, ball joint, alignment of parts were busted, broken, and/or needed to have parts that allowed for calibration and adjustment to get them back to in-line and synced. While looking at the back end and contemplating the rough ride, waggle, and pretty awful handling, I lowered the rear with some shorter springs by 3", replaced the shock absorbers with Rancho high quality shock absorbers, and it helped immensely with take off and definitely with traversing rough roads without destroying the driver's back. The front end got solid forged control arms, every bushing replaced, stabilizers, ball joints that have grease zerts so they can be maintained (what a concept!!!), new wheel hubs with Timken American made bearings (I'll never need to change them again and I would put $$ on that), and the only work that I didn't do myself was the alignment. It was done by Jose who works at a chop shop down the road. I'm not allowed to go in the back warehouse, but there's a lot of activity, some really nice custom rides in a dimly lit, dirt floor warehouse with an army of guys pushing cars and engines and other chunks around. Jose takes a couple of hours and I have to wait in the front house or outside. He does an amazing job and I finally of my own work because of the same issue that you experienced. Few shops focus on customer retention because they don't need to anymore. There are enough other customers out there that they can screw up, give no effort, tell the customer that they don't know what they are talking about about, and their business doesn't suffer much, if any at all.
Even the designers of these vehicles have given up on trusting their customers because small minorities of boneheads cause major problems for the manufacturer which leads to them taking away the transmission dipstick or not providing any specifications for brake caliper pistons and then only selling phenolic pistons which presents a far more dangerous scenario than steel pistons, and it's all because some bonehead put motor oil in their transmission or they rode around with one foot on the gas and the other on the brake pedal until the brake fluid boiled and "caused" them to wreck injuring or killing them or some other poor soul. So the fix is worse than the original problem and that's unfortunate.
Yes, I'm having issues with my phenolic brake pistons that after five months, half were shattered or broken, and yes, I just found a steel substitute that I'm putting on the front calipers this weekend.
Best of luck to you and I sympathies with your position of dealing with techs who blame customers before they look at the problem at hand.
When we focus on "who", it is to associate blame.
When we focus on the "what", it is to find a solution to the problem cooperatively.
 
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Wulf

Wulf

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Definately strange happenings.

The transmission fluid must expand quite a bit because in order to check the fluid level properly, the transmission temperature MUST be between 86° and 122°, along with the tramsmission being level (it's really easy to see how much the transmission is angled downward in our trucks).

Did you see any evidence of fluid running out of the body of the transmission? Or the pan rail?

Maybe once the truck is warm, things move enough for the leak to start. Theres only so many places it can run out, and can't be under too much pressure when it does, or you would lose alot more fluid, and quicker, IMO.
When I am, sorry was, able to look at it, was at night in the driveway after getting home from work, nowhere near anywhere with a lift at that time of night anyway. I am going by what Repair B has told me as far as the 'porous casting'. Before they found that, they did say that there is a vent at the top of the transmission, typically for air pressure changes I am guessing, as the fluid expands and contracts due to temperature changes up and down, but if there was 'extra' fluid, it could get ejected from there, which would appear to make sense, since gravity is still running, and the fluid I saw, even since the oil change, had been on the bottom of the engine, pan, cross member.

But if the case DOES have casting issues, then not leaking when the tranny is cold makes sense as well, since as with most things, metal also tends to expand when heated, and any holes or voids in the case not big enough to pass fluid when cold could enlarge and become more porous to the fluid 'leaking".
 
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Wulf

Wulf

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There have been a couple reports of porus castings on the 8 speeds Ed, it is uncommon though.
From what I am reading online, the 8HP95s (which are also for the 4x4 setups) are also 8 speed, but from my reading online since having this issue on my 8HP70, have not heard about nearly as many issues with them as with the '70s. They are just typically heavier duty; like in the Power Wagons, TRX, etc.

Edit: Matter of fact, I believe that is what the 8 part means, is the number of gears in that particular transmission.
 

Wild one

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From what I am reading online, the 8HP95s (which are also for the 4x4 setups) are also 8 speed, but from my reading online since having this issue on my 8HP70, have not heard about nearly as many issues with them as with the '70s. They are just typically heavier duty; like in the Power Wagons, TRX, etc.

Edit: Matter of fact, I believe that is what the 8 part means, is the number of gears in that particular transmission.
The last 2 digits of the 8 speeds denote it's continous torque rating in Newton/Meters. They'll take more then that for short periods of time.

IE:70 = 700nm = 516 lb-ft
75 = 750nm = 551.5 lb-ft
90 = 900nm = 664 lb-ft
95 = 950nm = 700 lb-ft
 
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Wulf

Wulf

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The last 2 digits of the 8 speeds denote it's continous torque rating in Newton/Meters. They'll take more then that for short periods of time.

IE:70 = 700nm = 516 lb-ft
75 = 750nm = 551.5 lb-ft
90 = 900nm = 664 lb-ft
95 = 950nm = 700 lb-ft
When I did a search on 'issues with 8hp95', one of the articles' info from https://www.jeepgarage.org/threads/lets-discuss-the-all-new-zf-8hp95-transmission.125346/ the blurb on the search screen says (among other things) 'The 8HP95 has a 500 kW rating (670 BHP) vs the 8HP90 550 kW rating (738 BHP) and 1 kg (2 lbs) heavier.' Either you're wrong, or they are, because it seems they are saying the 90 is more capable in that regard than the 95. Unless they typo'd and got them backwards.
 

Wild one

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When I did a search on 'issues with 8hp95', one of the articles' info from https://www.jeepgarage.org/threads/lets-discuss-the-all-new-zf-8hp95-transmission.125346/ the blurb on the search screen says (among other things) 'The 8HP95 has a 500 kW rating (670 BHP) vs the 8HP90 550 kW rating (738 BHP) and 1 kg (2 lbs) heavier.' Either you're wrong, or they are, because it seems they are saying the 90 is more capable in that regard than the 95. Unless they typo'd and got them backwards.
That thread is from a year before the trackHawks and 8HP95 were released in 18.
My understanding is the last 2 digits refer to the torque rating,and it applies to all of them.It definitely applies to the 70 / 75 /and 90,so i'd assume it also applies to the 95. If the 95 had a lighter torque rating then the 90,i'd think they'd of called it an 80 or 85 instead of 95.
The threads you're pulling up and using as referance are all old threads,and aren't in any way connected to an actual ZF referance or engineer,they're just guys on a forum assuming what a transmission that hadn't been released yet,was rated at.
Just found this,and the 95 appears to be rated at 700lb-ft.

"The all-wheel drive traction afforded by the 8HP95 is supported by a torque rating of 700 lb-ft.Feb 19, 2021"
 
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pscarbor

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Green transmission fluid? Seriously?
 

Dusty

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There has been issues with porous aluminum transmission cases, but the only one's I've heard about are earlier Fords.

However, it's possible on any casting.

The heat exchanger mounted on the left side of the transmission did have some issues with leaking a couple of years back and that would've been my first suspect.

Aside: a dealer must receive authorization from field engineering BEFORE ordering a transmission in warranty. If they don't supply the authorization code at order the dealer will be expensed for it. Also, fulfillment will not be expeditated unless the vehicle is listed as "down" (undriveable).

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 110818 miles.
 
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Wulf

Wulf

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There has been issues with porous aluminum transmission cases, but the only one's I've heard about are earlier Fords.

However, it's possible on any casting.

The heat exchanger mounted on the left side of the transmission did have some issues with leaking a couple of years back and that would've been my first suspect.

Aside: a dealer must receive authorization from field engineering BEFORE ordering a transmission in warranty. If they don't supply the authorization code at order the dealer will be expensed for it. Also, fulfillment will not be expeditated unless the vehicle is listed as "down" (undriveable).

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 110818 miles.
Well, not sure how 'driveable' it is at the moment because what Repair B told me one of the more recent times I talked to them, they reportedly had removed the 'old' (less than 3 years and < 33k) tranny in anticipation of getting the new one. Also, not sure driving Blue in the condition the tranny was in would have been advisable anyway. Run low/out of fluid, cause issues which void the warranty, etc.
 
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