TRUCK PULLING RIGHT....SHOP SAYS IT DOESNT NEED ALIGNMENT

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POINTMAN380

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Ever since I took my 2018 2500 in to have the bilstein level kit, synergy drag link, and adjustable track bar put on, the truck has pulled slightly to the right and the steering wheel sits at about the 2 o’clock position. Finally got it into a shop this morning to have a tire rotation and alignment done and the shop just called and said it has to be more than an alignment. He specifically stated that if the truck is pulling right an alignment won’t fix it and they are gonna try to find the issue. It’s a brand new truck with 14k miles on it. Does this sound right or should I find a new shop?
 

mrugg

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I say let them look. Because it sounds like at least they notice something is wrong and willing to look into it.

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POINTMAN380

POINTMAN380

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Just spoke to the shop. They say it’s not out of alignment at all and that the drag link is so tight that they can’t adjust the steering wheel cause they can’t get it to budge. Sucks because I upgraded to the synergy to keep from having to weld the factory DL

guess I’m just stuck with a crooked steering wheel and a slight pull to the right
 

mrugg

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Why don't you replace the drag link

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POINTMAN380

POINTMAN380

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Why don't you replace the drag link

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I literally just had it replaced. Went from the factory recalled POS to the new Synergy manufacturing drag link. Looks like the problem is that the shop I used to do the install has a steroid problem cause they tightened it down so tight that nobody can seem to loosen it in order to make adjustments. I’m gonna have to wait in line at the original shop to get them make the correction to the steering wheel. But it’s still a mystery as to why it pulls right but the alignment is perfectly within spec
 

mrugg

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Wow ok interested to see you make out with it all

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Sandevino

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Two words... pipe wrenches.

Use two in opposing directions to break that nut loose.
 
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POINTMAN380

POINTMAN380

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Two words... pipe wrenches.

Use two in opposing directions to break that nut loose.
I think I’m gonna have to give it a try on my own. If I’m able to break it loose, will straightening my steering wheel out have any effect on the truck pulling to the right. It’s suspicious to me that the wheel is offset to the right and the truck pulls right
 

Sandevino

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I think I’m gonna have to give it a try on my own. If I’m able to break it loose, will straightening my steering wheel out have any effect on the truck pulling to the right. It’s suspicious to me that the wheel is offset to the right and the truck pulls right

No, it won’t. Here’s the redneck backyard 2500 alignment process.

Step 1 - Get the wheels tracking straight. Get a tape measure inside front to inside front, inside rear to rear and record measurements.

Step 2 - If values do not match, loosen your tie rod nut. If the front value is greater, twist a half turn toward the rear and measure. If the rear is greater twist a half turn toward the front and measure.

Step 3 - when your measurements front / rear are within a 0” - 1/16” front to back, you’re within 0* - .05* which is within spec. Tighten the adjustment nut to 40 foot pounds.

Step 4 - Drive around the block and see if your truck tracks straight on a flat road. If it does, move to step 5. If not, go back to Step 1. If you track straight, take note of where your steering wheel points. 12 o’clock is straight up. Move to step 5.

Step 5 - Straighten the wheel. This will take a few attempts and some fine tuning. Loosen the adjustment nut on your drag link. Depending on how off your wheel is will dictate how much you have to adjust. If your wheel is pointing between 9 and 12 o’clock you need to shorten the drag link. Rotate it forward to shorten. If your wheel points between 12 and 3 o’clock you need to lengthen your drag link. Rotate it backward to lengthen. Get it where you’re happy. It may take a few attempts. Tighten the adjustment nut to 40 foot pounds.

Step 6 - take another trip around the block and make sure everything is straight to your liking. If it’s good, re-check your torque specs at 40 foot pounds.

Congratulations... you’ve aligned your wheels and steering wheel.
 
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POINTMAN380

POINTMAN380

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No, it won’t. Here’s the redneck backyard 2500 alignment process.

Step 1 - Get the wheels tracking straight. Get a tape measure inside front to inside front, inside rear to rear and record measurements.

Step 2 - If values do not match, loosen your tie rod nut. If the front value is greater, twist a half turn toward the rear and measure. If the rear is greater twist a half turn toward the front and measure.

Step 3 - when your measurements front / rear are within a 0” - 1/16” front to back, you’re within 0* - .05* which is within spec. Tighten the adjustment nut to 40 foot pounds.

Step 4 - Drive around the block and see if your truck tracks straight on a flat road. If it does, move to step 5. If not, go back to Step 1. If you track straight, take note of where your steering wheel points. 12 o’clock is straight up. Move to step 5.

Step 5 - Straighten the wheel. This will take a few attempts and some fine tuning. Loosen the adjustment nut on your drag link. Depending on how off your wheel is will dictate how much you have to adjust. If your wheel is pointing between 9 and 12 o’clock you need to shorten the drag link. Rotate it forward to shorten. If your wheel points between 12 and 3 o’clock you need to lengthen your drag link. Rotate it backward to lengthen. Get it where you’re happy. It may take a few attempts. Tighten the adjustment nut to 40 foot pounds.

Step 6 - take another trip around the block and make sure everything is straight to your liking. If it’s good, re-check your torque specs at 40 foot pounds.

Congratulations... you’ve aligned your wheels and steering wheel.
Thanks for this. Screenshots taken. Guess I know what I’m doing this weekend.
 

Firetruck41

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No, it won’t. Here’s the redneck backyard 2500 alignment process.

Step 1 - Get the wheels tracking straight. Get a tape measure inside front to inside front, inside rear to rear and record measurements.

Step 2 - If values do not match, loosen your tie rod nut. If the front value is greater, twist a half turn toward the rear and measure. If the rear is greater twist a half turn toward the front and measure.

Step 3 - when your measurements front / rear are within a 0” - 1/16” front to back, you’re within 0* - .05* which is within spec. Tighten the adjustment nut to 40 foot pounds.

Step 4 - Drive around the block and see if your truck tracks straight on a flat road. If it does, move to step 5. If not, go back to Step 1. If you track straight, take note of where your steering wheel points. 12 o’clock is straight up. Move to step 5.

Step 5 - Straighten the wheel. This will take a few attempts and some fine tuning. Loosen the adjustment nut on your drag link. Depending on how off your wheel is will dictate how much you have to adjust. If your wheel is pointing between 9 and 12 o’clock you need to shorten the drag link. Rotate it forward to shorten. If your wheel points between 12 and 3 o’clock you need to lengthen your drag link. Rotate it backward to lengthen. Get it where you’re happy. It may take a few attempts. Tighten the adjustment nut to 40 foot pounds.

Step 6 - take another trip around the block and make sure everything is straight to your liking. If it’s good, re-check your torque specs at 40 foot pounds.

Congratulations... you’ve aligned your wheels and steering wheel.
Just a clarification, when you say inside rear to inside rear you are talking strictly about the measurement at the rear of the front tire. Somebody reading might think your were talking about comparing the front tire measurement to a rear tire measurement.
 

Sandevino

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Just a clarification, when you say inside rear to inside rear you are talking strictly about the measurement at the rear of the front tire. Somebody reading might think your were talking about comparing the front tire measurement to a rear tire measurement.

No, sorry... the front of the front tire compared to the back of the front tire.

You are comparing these measurements to determine if the tires are pointing in, our or straight.
 
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POINTMAN380

POINTMAN380

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Well I got it into a local shop that I trust and they were able to fix the problem by road force balancing the tires (Cooper ST Max 35x12.50R20) and doing a tire rotation. Not sure how it fixed it but it did. They checked the alignment again and said it’s perfect. As far as getting the steering wheel centered...no dice. Admittedly the mechanic is an older man and he couldn’t get the drag link to budge. I’ll give it a try and see what happens. They also air’d the tires to exactly 75 psi and told me that the front right was a bit low compared to the others.
Anyways...aside from smacking mirrors with another ram and cracking my drivers side tow mirror, it was a pretty good day tater
 

SeppW

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Assuming the installer did an alignment after installing all that stuff, what was the toe set at and did they screw with the caster? If your satisfied the road force balance fixt the issue then I guess you're GG.
 

Sherman Bird

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I literally just had it replaced. Went from the factory recalled POS to the new Synergy manufacturing drag link.

Who is "Synergy"? Are they funded nearly as well as FCA in research and engineering? THEIR product causes you grief, yet the FCA piece is the "POS"? And you are willing to live with a crooked steering wheel? Do you have Vehicle Stability Control? Is this vehicle equipped with a Yaw sensor? If so, you can't continue to operate the truck with an off center steering wheel and expect that crucial safety feature to save your ass if you ever lose control of the rear wheels and spin out. My Toyota has saved me twice with VSC where there wasn't even one second for me to respond... but it did and kept me out of accidents. You might rethink this thing. But the steering angle sensor MUST be zeroed with the steering wheel straight ahead. My last question is this: Who bears liability in the event this aftermarket part is identified as a direct factor in an accident? How does it affect Factory warranty?
 
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POINTMAN380

POINTMAN380

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Assuming the installer did an alignment after installing all that stuff, what was the toe set at and did they screw with the caster? If your satisfied the road force balance fixt the issue then I guess you're GG.
That’s the bad part. The shop that did the installation of all the parts had to pass it off to a local dealership for the alignment and I never got any paperwork back showing the specs. But two different shops have told me that the alignment is perfect. All I know is the pulling to the right has stopped.
 
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