Trying PPHM 5w30 + Lubegard: ‘09 Ram 1500

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pdabhi29

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Hi all,

Had lifter tick for over an astounding 10k miles on a currently 140k miles ‘09 1500 5.7. Had truck for a year, no issues runs great. In FL, FL truck whole life.

Dealer either used PP full syn. 5w20 or regular PYB full syn. 5w20 not sure, truck purred like a kitten until around 1500-2000 miles after OCI when it would tick again.

On second OCI used 6 quarts dealer PP or PYB 5w20 with 1 quart Lucas Oil High Mileage stabilizer, no difference in tick.

Third OCI was today, tried 5 quarts PPHM 5w30 + 1 quart PP 5w20 + 15oz Lubegard Biotech, around 6.5 quarts in the engine. Roughly 5w26ish now if you do the math.

Will update on how it performs over time, so far tick is louder right after change? We’ll see.

Please comment and ask questions.
 

Wild one

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Hi all,

Had lifter tick for over an astounding 10k miles on a currently 140k miles ‘09 1500 5.7. Had truck for a year, no issues runs great. In FL, FL truck whole life.

Dealer either used PP full syn. 5w20 or regular PYB full syn. 5w20 not sure, truck purred like a kitten until around 1500-2000 miles after OCI when it would tick again.

On second OCI used 6 quarts dealer PP or PYB 5w20 with 1 quart Lucas Oil High Mileage stabilizer, no difference in tick.

Third OCI was today, tried 5 quarts PPHM 5w30 + 1 quart PP 5w20 + 15oz Lubegard Biotech, around 6.5 quarts in the engine. Roughly 5w26ish now if you do the math.

Will update on how it performs over time, so far tick is louder right after change? We’ll see.

Please comment and ask questions.
What the hell is PPHM? Are you referring to Penzoil Platinium High Milege,if so,it'd help if you actually spelled it out,same with PYB
 

JHoward

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Well, the Lubegard Biotech may be the best thing that you added for your high mileage HEMI ... as far as the "abbreviated" oils, Idk.
 
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pdabhi29

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Correct, Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage and Pennzoil Yellow Bottle (Non plat.) are the abbreviated terms.
 

Burla

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Check exhaust bolts, not even a pro can tell the difference by sound lifter versus exhaust.
 
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pdabhi29

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Exhaust bolts were fixed by the dealer prior to picking up the truck, ruled out.

The tick immediately went away my first OCI after purchase.

1500 miles after this oil change, Pennzoil Platinum HM w/ Fram XG2 made my tick louder. Lubegard unfortunately made 0 difference in quieting the tick. Oil pressure is good in the 40s-50s as expected. Still great power and acceleration, no issues.

Dealer’s Pennzoil full synthetic 5w20 w/ Mopar filter was the smoothest my hemi has been. Tick was essentially nonexistent until 2000-3000 miles later. It’s all I’ve used prior to switching to this OCI with 5w30.

Very weird.
 

JHoward

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Exhaust bolts were fixed by the dealer prior to picking up the truck, ruled out.

The tick immediately went away my first OCI after purchase.

1500 miles after this oil change, Pennzoil Platinum HM w/ Fram XG2 made my tick louder. Lubegard unfortunately made 0 difference in quieting the tick. Oil pressure is good in the 40s-50s as expected. Still great power and acceleration, no issues.

Dealer’s Pennzoil full synthetic 5w20 w/ Mopar filter was the smoothest my hemi has been. Tick was essentially nonexistent until 2000-3000 miles later. It’s all I’ve used prior to switching to this OCI with 5w30.

Very weird.

From the folks here in the RAMforum advise, give the Lubegard BioTech some time to "kick in". Similar to using Red Line oils high in molybdenum, it takes a few hundred miles to "plate" to the metal internals ...
 

mdc1990zr1

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Exhaust bolts were fixed by the dealer prior to picking up the truck, ruled out.

The tick immediately went away my first OCI after purchase.

1500 miles after this oil change, Pennzoil Platinum HM w/ Fram XG2 made my tick louder. Lubegard unfortunately made 0 difference in quieting the tick. Oil pressure is good in the 40s-50s as expected. Still great power and acceleration, no issues.

Dealer’s Pennzoil full synthetic 5w20 w/ Mopar filter was the smoothest my hemi has been. Tick was essentially nonexistent until 2000-3000 miles later. It’s all I’ve used prior to switching to this OCI with 5w30.

Very weird.
Thats the deal. If you just change the oil again leaving the old oil filter in place, you'll be quiet for another 2-3K miles. I believe its the breakdown of the additives in the oil, thats why I am on a 3000 mile OCI. As soon as I hear the lifter tick at startup a few days in a row, I know its time for a change.
 

Wild one

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Thats the deal. If you just change the oil again leaving the old oil filter in place, you'll be quiet for another 2-3K miles. I believe its the breakdown of the additives in the oil, thats why I am on a 3000 mile OCI. As soon as I hear the lifter tick at startup a few days in a row, I know its time for a change.
Why in hell would you change the oil and leave a dirty filter in place.That doesn't really make much sense does it
 

Racer9

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If the actual issue is a worn lifter, no oil will repair it. Have you had an oil sample done after change?
Lift off the valve covers and check the lift of the pushrods, you probably have one that isn't lifting as much as the rest, and eventually it will fail completely, sending lots of particles through the rest of the engine, which could mean a full rebuild.
The only thing that will fix it is a replacement. Better sooner than later, or pay a little now or a lot later.
 

mdc1990zr1

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Why in hell would you change the oil and leave a dirty filter in place.That doesn't really make much sense does it
I was a chemist. That is how you would "control" and experiment. When you only change the oil and the problem goes away, it's safe to say that was the issue. Changing the filter would have added another element of concern. Changing only the oil is collecting data on the oil only. Since the problem went away with one quart of old oil remaining and the original filter still on the truck, you can concentrate on the data for the oil.
 

Wild one

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I was a chemist. That is how you would "control" and experiment. When you only change the oil and the problem goes away, it's safe to say that was the issue. Changing the filter would have added another element of concern. Changing only the oil is collecting data on the oil only. Since the problem went away with one quart of old oil remaining and the original filter still on the truck, you can concentrate on the data for the oil.
I don't think a ticking engine is something you want to leave a dirty filter on,just to collect data.Might sound like a good idea to you,but to the rest of us,not so much ;) The majority of engine builders aren't gonna think it's a good idea either
 

mdc1990zr1

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I don't think a ticking engine is something you want to leave a dirty filter on,just to collect data.Might sound like a good idea to you,but to the rest of us,not so much ;) The majority of engine builders aren't gonna think it's a good idea either
I don't think the filter is "dirty" with 3000 miles on it. Anyway, I always change the Mopar paper filter at the 3000 mile OCI. If I use the Royal Purple 20-820 I just change the filter every other oil change of 6000 mile OCI. The filter still has lots of life in it, and new oil with fresh additives is much better every 3000 miles vs. the one quart which accumulates 6000 miles. Most of the people on here are running all 7 quarts past the 6000 mile OCI I use.
I am not treating a "tick" but trying to prevent the tick. From the results of the forum members here, I want learn from their trials and tribulations and prevent the tick. My method clearly points to the oil as the factor of my ticking at this stage of my HEMI's life.
I don't see any engine builders questioning my results, only you. I post my results as they come, hopefully to help others, not stir a fight.
 
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Wild one

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I don't think the filter is "dirty" with 3000 miles on it. Anyway, I always change the Mopar paper filter at the 3000 mile OCI. If I use the Royal Purple 20-820 I just change the filter every other oil change of 6000 mile OCI. The filter still has lots of life in it, and new oil with fresh additives is much better every 3000 miles vs. the one quart which accumulates 6000 miles. Most of the people on here are running all 7 quarts past the 6000 mile OCI I use.
I am not treating a "tick" but trying to prevent the tick. From the results of the forum members here, I want learn from their trials and tribulations and prevent the tick. My method clearly points to the oil as the factor of my ticking at this stage of my HEMI's life.
I don't see any engine builders questioning my results, only you. I post my results as they come, hopefully to help others, not stir a fight.
I know a few guys who squeak when they walk ,and you are another one i'm going to add to that list,lol. Your truck,so you can do what you want with it,but personally i think you're not right,and i don't think you should be telling the OP to not change his filter.The hemi is marginally oiled at best,so anything you can do to maintain it,is beneficial and using the same filter over while changing the oil,doesn't really fit in that scenerio.
On this one,we're just going to have to agree to disagree sir :Big Laugh:
 

mdc1990zr1

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I know a few guys who squeak when they walk ,and you are another one i'm going to add to that list,lol. Your truck,so you can do what you want with it,but personally i think you're not right,and i don't think you should be telling the OP to not change his filter.The hemi is marginally oiled at best,so anything you can do to maintain it,is beneficial and using the same filter over while changing the oil,doesn't really fit in that scenerio.
On this one,we're just going to have to agree to disagree sir :Big Laugh:
I don't squeak when I walk. Your missing the point totally, I just did and experiment to narrow down the possible causes and told him to do the same. I don't advocate not changing an oil filter past its usable life. Paper filters are 3000 mile OCI and done. Royal Purple big filters 6000 miles and done. Good oil every 3000 and done. The fresh oil is the key. I don't have to cure or maintain a tick because I should never have a tick at that interval. At the first sign of a tick, the Hemi got an oil change. I didn't drive it with this "tick" until my computer said to change the oil, therefore no need for a "cure". I believe Burla had early Hemi tick and with Redline as his lubrication strategy, he has prevented the tick from coming back. I ran a few oils till the breaking point of each, and 3000 miles is about it. Catching the tick early and not letting it continue will benefit me and my engine. Like Burla, I believe Hemi tick STARTS as a lubrication issue. Allowing the tick to continue, metal on metal wear, will accelerate the lifter/cam wear to a point of failure. You and others may be correct that it is a design failure, but I got what I got and only want to prolong this problem as far out as I can. I learned a lot from the forum and you too. Just trying to give some back. Sorry I made your "list" but I'll still sleep tonight.
 
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pdabhi29

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According to a UOA Database on Bob Is The Oil Guy, Valvoline Extended Protection HM 5W30 had 396 Moly and 848 Zinc compared to Redline HP 5W30 with 436 Moly/1132 Zinc. UOAs for each 4 months apart taken in 2023.

For further comparison of reputable High Mileage oils, Quaker State HM 5w30 full syn. had a UOA showing only 177 Moly/832 Zinc, taken 5 months after the Valvoline EP HM I prev mentioned with 396 Moly/848 Zinc.

Why is this specific Valvoline oil not talked about enough?
 

Burla

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Valvoline moly levels were zero when the syn thread started, they had no commitment to moly at that time. RP oils were the other with zero moly levels at that time and for years. So you brought a new girl to the dance but we are already dancing with the girl we brought, so there goes the saying you go with the girl you brought to the dance, meaning you know what you will get with her. That is the only reason, my hope was always to find more options to kill tick, perhaps this is one. Until it builds a rep like redline or biotech at killing ticks it is just theory, a good theory based on those numbers.
 
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