Typo's Reg Cab Box Build

[typo_joe]

Hello All! Some of you may have been following my previous thread. I'm going to stop updating there because it has moved passed the sub/amp advice I was originally asking for and has turned into a build thread. So, here's my build thread.

The skinny:
• Truck: 2013 1500 Express Regular Cab Short Box 2WD
• Head Unit: Stock uConnect 3.0
• Mids and Highs: Stock (possible upgrade later)
• Amp: Kicker CX1200.1 (to be purchased next week)
• Sub: 12" Eclipse Aluminum Cone (discontinued)
• Line Out (LOC): AudioControl LC2i
• Wiring: 4 gauge (brand TBD)
• Box Finish: Color Matched Carpet

The Goal:
• Clean Crisp Bass
• Stealth/Hidden as possible
• As perfect as I can afford
• Maintain as much storage space as possible
• Maintain center console function
• Maintain majority of drivers seat adjustability (comfort is 1st priority)
• Use the storage trays factory mounting points

If you want to see what I've done to this point, please see my previous post.

http://www.ramforum.com/f51/looking_reg_cab_sub_amp_advice-31557/

Where I left it, I was going to tweak my current box plan with the consideration of removing the storage tray. The plan is, officially, going to remove the storage tray. It will be replaced with a custom built tray that will also be carpeted to match the box/other interior.

As you may be able to tell on the attached photo, there are two false walls on the sides of the box. The false walls don't have bottoms. These are to hide the wires running from the top.

I have four main concerns:
• Mounting everything on the box. I think I'm going to devise some rubber feet/pads to use as spacers, but exactly how, I haven't figured it out yet. If anyone has suggestions, please share. Major.
• Space for the wiring on top of the box. I wont start constructing until I get all the components. That way I can do some dry fitting to be sure I have the space. Major.
• Building the tray. If the wall was flat, it would be easy, but thats clearly not the case. Keeping up with the contours and keeping it clean are going to be tough given the condition of table saw. At least the carpet will help conceal some of it. Major.
• The overall width of the box portion is 22". It should be fine, but I hope it doesn't poke out from behind my seat too much. Minor.

The dodge's that run on the sides of the front panel... well I'm not sure what those are. I added them on another version of the build (that I haven't shown). One of them was kind of needed for balance but, but now they are just there. I don't know if they will end up on the finished product or if they do, I don't know how I'll do it. Most likely something 3-D as opposed to inset.

I'm sure I'm leaving something out, but here's where I am.

The next steps:
• Order Amp
• Build 3-D Mockup of new design (overall dimensions w/o tray)
• Dry fit components
• Finalize Design
• Begin construction

Once I'm convinced the box design will suit my needs, my focus will be on a clean run of the wires. Mainly the power, but really every wire there is. I would prefer that only the few inches of wires shown on the rack (before wires go into the false walls) are the only wires that are seen unless you either move the seat up or open the hood. From what I've inspected so far, this should be a lot easier than my jetta. Fingers crossed.

About the attachment: Ignore the black rectangle on the front unfinished view, that was my measuring tool from when I was figuring the volume. I forgot to delete it. It does hide the 11.125" hole shown for the subwoofer.

 

[UNBROKEN]

I'd go with an angled enclosure and put the amps and LOC under one of the seats.
Much easier to hide the wiring and have a cleaner install.

 

[typo_joe]

I'd go with an angled enclosure and put the amps and LOC under one of the seats.
Much easier to hide the wiring and have a cleaner install.

Curious, what's the reason for going with an angled enclosure?

 

[chuck]

Damn man, nice. That's about the most professionally done DIY project I've ever seen hahah


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[UNBROKEN]

Curious, what's the reason for going with an angled enclosure?

1...more seat adjustability.
2...and angled baffle will help with the back waves hitting the back of the enclosure straight on. You can eek a little more sound quality out of it if that's your goal. If you do a square enclosure at least glue some deflex pads to the back wall to help absorb that wave.

 

[typo_joe]

1...more seat adjustability.
2...and angled baffle will help with the back waves hitting the back of the enclosure straight on. You can eek a little more sound quality out of it if that's your goal. If you do a square enclosure at least glue some deflex pads to the back wall to help absorb that wave.

The seat adjustability isnt too bad. Acceptable for sure. However, i think your suggestion about the slope is just enough to push me to alter my design again to add it.

I had read on another forum, not to long before you replied here, a thread regarding the enclosure shape. I dont remember exactly what they were discussing (exactly) but someone posted a few pages out of the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook. The pages were discussing enclosure shape in great detail. Cubes are the worst, followed by rectangles (which are slightly better). The two best shapes were tubes and spheres but neither are for me. Although... A tube enclosure would be interesting... Nope im staying away.

Also adding a slope by kicking out the bottom will help give room for some adjustments on the width (volume wise).

I shall return with a redesign.

Thanks for the tips.

 

[typo_joe]

Ive made a little progress...

• the audiocontrol lc2i LOC is now in my possession
• the kicker cx1200.1 amp is now in my possession
• all building materials are now in my possession (minus the carpet)
• i have redesigned the box (w/a sloped front panel)
• i built a card board mock up and tested the fit (all is good, as it is)

Tonight im going to finalize the build plan and create a cut-sheet for me to go by when cutting my panels. If i can get that knocked out tonight, im going to start the build tomorrow morning/afternoon (weather permitting).

However, first things first, time to take care of the yard work.

Heres some pictures...

 

[chuck]

Sweet!! I'll keep my fingers crossed for you to have good weather tomorrow. Good luck!

 

[cableguy_hd]

I would greatly appreciate a pic or 2 on how you wire the LOC... Thanks

 

[typo_joe]

I would greatly appreciate a pic or 2 on how you wire the LOC... Thanks

Absolutely! I dont know when ill be doing that part. It would be awesome if it happened this weekend but im not going to rush this. So, maybe by next weekend. When i do, ill be sure to share.

 

[typo_joe]

Plan and cut list are completed. Now time for bed, I want to get an early start... my neighbors are going to love the saws running in the morning!

So here's the final plan. The tricky part, making it match (exactly) the plan.

BTW, the tray is going to be added later. It's going to take some time to plan out the tray (to fit the retarded wall), but I DO know how I'm going to accomplish it, just gotta find the time to do it.

 

[UNBROKEN]

Why not cut the existing tray to fit the side of the box? Maybe use some door edge moulding to clean up the edge after you cut it and bolt it down right where it should be?

 

[typo_joe]

Why not cut the existing tray to fit the side of the box? Maybe use some door edge moulding to clean up the edge after you cut it and bolt it down right where it should be?

Good idea but i dont want to cut my tray. One important part of this and all of my personal builds is to make sure its reversible. If, down the road, i want to remove it or i sell the truck and then remove, i want to be able to put it back to stock.

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[UNBROKEN]

A tray is cheap at the dealer...cut that ****** and forget about it. Hell...I have one I'll give you if you're close enough. There's nothing reversible about my install. LOL

 

[typo_joe]

First off...
Unbroken, I know you've heard it before, but that is an awesome build. I read your build thread and did a little dreaming. lol. Thanks for sharing.

Now the update...
The weather was very friendly this weekend (minus the sunburn). I was able to inhale lots of saw dust and get the box portion built. It's not shown in any of the photos, but the hole for the sub has been cut and the sub mount holes drilled. I need to run the wire, seal all my seams, put the carpet on and mount the sub.

As you can see in the photos, I also got the Stinger wiring kit. I have to say this is an impressive wiring kit. I've had many over the years, but this is the best I've every owned. Although, I have owned better RCA cables before. It includes an anl fuse, nothing special, but I always wanted one of these on one of my systems, back in the days, but for some reason never got one... well, i finally got it.

Hopefully, I'll have the amp wiring finished by the end of this coming weekend. Ideally, the LOC as well so I can have some bump that following Monday, but...

...My biggest puzzle piece is the wiring for the LOC. The last stock HU that I ran an amp/sub on, I just used the amps hi level inputs. There was one other time, but a buddy of mine hooked up the LOC for me. It was his and I was borrowing it... my HU died, but we had to bump while driving around that weekend.

So, I know the inputs come from the stock speaker wires. That's were my certainty stops. I need to figure out (please don't laugh, these are probably common knowledge to most):

• Do I need to hook up both left and right inputs since I'm running a single sub? Tapping one rear speaker would be easier than having to tap both rear speakers. Trying to avoid having to pull the HU.
• Does the power wire need to constant, like the amp?
• Where do I connect the power wire? LOC behind seat and without pulling the HU
• Where do I connect the ground wire? Okay to ground at the amp ground point? Again, trying not to pull the HU

After I resolve the above, it'll be down hill.

Suggestions welcome. Otherwise... stay tuned.

 

[cableguy_hd]

those were some of my same questions on the LC2i..... I rewired a golf cart a few months ago but it didn't cost me 30 g's.... so I aint f'n this truck up

 

[WhiteExpress]

• Do I need to hook up both left and right inputs since I'm running a single sub? Tapping one rear speaker would be easier than having to tap both rear speakers. Trying to avoid having to pull the HU.
• Does the power wire need to constant, like the amp?
• Where do I connect the power wire? LOC behind seat and without pulling the HU
• Where do I connect the ground wire? Okay to ground at the amp ground point? Again, trying not to pull the HU.

You need both Left and Right Inputs (otherwise you'll only get signal from one side, and the bass track might be on the other side!)

Do not use the rear speakers. They are crossed in the factory deck and do not have bass.

Pull the deck and tap the 4 green wires (if I recall right) You can easily find the color by looking at the factory dash speakers (assuming you don't have an Alpine factory)

If you don't have heated power seats, one of the 3 connectors under the seat has a Ignition hot that I tapped into for my Remote On for my amp, should work for your LOC

Ground it where-ever you ground the amp. I used one of the bolts that holds down a control box under the center console.

 

[cableguy_hd]

Not to hijack but every audio installer here has said they would tap into a rear speaker for a LOC but you are suggesting not to. Is it because of what he is using (LC2i) or is it not a good idea at all

 

[WhiteExpress]

Not to hijack but every audio installer here has said they would tap into a rear speaker for a LOC but you are suggesting not to. Is it because of what he is using (LC2i) or is it not a good idea at all

Your audio installers must not know that Ram is using active filtering and thus not providing full signal to the rear channels.

It has nothing to do with the LOC being used, simply the fact that he is running it with a stock deck.

 

[Etroze86]

Think about how many people with Rams have paid good money not to have full potential of their stereo.