Upgrading break lines

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rubes7202

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I just leveled my truck and hear it's probably a good idea to upgrade the break lines. Any recommendation for brand, type, etc?

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charonblk07

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quietpeen

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why is it a good idea to upgrade brake lines with a level?
 
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rubes7202

rubes7202

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why is it a good idea to upgrade brake lines with a level?
Like anything else. You are increasing height in front so makes sense to get longer ones.

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RubberFrog

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I would only do this as a cosmetic mod. There is no need to do this for a level. You don't even need to do it with a 6" lift.
 
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rubes7202

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I find that hard to believe considering that with a good bounce or bottom out they won't snap. Stock lines are not made for that increased height.

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MADDOG

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One other benefit...replace that rubber line with braided stainless steel means you never have to worry about that rubber line bulging or failing, affecting your braking performance.

Also, larger wheels and tires can place more stress on the rubber lines, causing them to fail sooner.

I have Crown Performance lines on the truck, Stop Tech lines on the SRT.
 

PassivAggressor

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I have been running the KLM Performance (Crown Performance) stainless brake lines for several years now and have been very happy with them. They're the only kit where you can get a coloured overlay if you care about that sort of thing, mine are green. They also have them available based on additional lift if you need longer lines.

https://www.klmperformance.com/dodge-ram-1500-stainless-steel-braided-brake-lines.html

It says for 4wd. Do you know if these will work on a 2wd? I'm replacing my brakes and I'd like to do the lines as well.
 

RubberFrog

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I find that hard to believe considering that with a good bounce or bottom out they won't snap. Stock lines are not made for that increased height.

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It's not a hypothetical. Look at the truck in my sig pic. Tons of off-roading, no broken break lines.

If you want braided lines for "cool factor", or perhaps you have 80k on your old lines, it might be worth it.
 

PassivAggressor

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It's not a hypothetical. Look at the truck in my sig pic. Tons of off-roading, no broken break lines.

If you want braided lines for "cool factor", or perhaps you have 80k on your old lines, it might be worth it.

In his defense, most lifts I've seen have longer lines or longer brackets to hang them lower. Braided lines are not just for the "cool factor". They give your brake pedal a much firmer feel. Not mushy like the stock brakes.
 

Rustycowl69

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I have next to no experience in lifted trucks, but I know the factory doesn't give you extra anything. The oem brake hoses are the minimum length for safety and longevity. It stands to reason that if you increase the distance between frame end of hose and caliper end, you need more hose. just my .02.
 

RubberFrog

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OP wants to level his truck and you guys think he needs longer break lines?

You're all guessing and supposing. Have you even installed a small lift on a ram? You DO NOT need longer lines.
 

PassivAggressor

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OP wants to level his truck and you guys think he needs longer break lines?

You're all guessing and supposing. Have you even installed a small lift on a ram? You DO NOT need longer lines.

No guessing and supposing here. Of course he doesn't need longer lines for a level. That's obvious. I was referring to you saying LIFTS. Specifically where you said you don't even need to do it with 6" lifts. There are plenty of kits out there that have either new longer lines or extended brackets for the lines.
 

Cruizer

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I have 2.8" level in my front. I didn't have to lengthen my lines. I'm running on a heavy 35" tire. Been two years and no problems.
 

RubberFrog

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No guessing and supposing here. Of course he doesn't need longer lines for a level. That's obvious. I was referring to you saying LIFTS. Specifically where you said you don't even need to do it with 6" lifts. There are plenty of kits out there that have either new longer lines or extended brackets for the lines.

See the truck in my sig pic? 6" lift. No break lines necessary.
 

PassivAggressor

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See the truck in my sig pic? 6" lift. No break lines necessary.
Quote from BDS's website on a 6" lift for your truck.

"Bump stop drops, anti-sway bar extensions, 3 point differential drop system, front stainless steel brake lines, and strut relocation brackets are also included in this Dodge 6" lift kit."

Quote from BDS again for current generation trucks. 4 and 6 inch kits.

"The system also includes bump stop drops, anti-sway bar links, 3 point differential drop system, strut relocation brackets, and front stainless steel brake lines."

Quote from BDS on the 4" air ride kit on new air ride trucks.

"In order to accommodate for the full height range of the adjustable suspension, front replacement brake lines are also included."

Quote from Zone 4" and 6" lift installation instructions.

"Attach the provided brake line relocation bracket to the frame where the original
line mounted. The brakeline bracket will offset towards the rear of the vehicle.
Torque the factory bolt to 10 ft-lbs and the ½" bolt to 50 "

Quote from Rough Country on their 4 and 6 inch installation instructions.

"Install new brake line bracket onto brake line using supplied 5/16” x 3/4” bolts, washers and nuts. "

Granted, I'm sure some of these lines and extensions are more for precaution, but they have them in all of these lifts.

Links-
http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=2&mo=16&ty=13&yr=2006-2008

http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=2&mo=16&ty=99&yr=2013-2016

http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=2&mo=16&ty=96&yr=2013-2016

http://zoneoffroad.com/display?ma=16&yr=2014&mo=166&ca=78

http://www.roughcountry.com/dodge-suspension-lift-kit-323c.html

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Ratket

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Is it needed - No .. is it a upgrade... Yes- I suggest if you are gonna do the brake lines get some drilled and slotted rotors as well and help that pulppy stop on a dime- Will be upgrading the ones on my 6.4 2500 soon enough.
 

sbarron

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Is it needed - No .. is it a upgrade... Yes- I suggest if you are gonna do the brake lines get some drilled and slotted rotors as well and help that pulppy stop on a dime- Will be upgrading the ones on my 6.4 2500 soon enough.



Oy. It ain't a race car. No need for drilled OR slotted rotors unless you just want to replace pads sooner.

Drilled rotors were developed to solve pad outgassing when asbestos was used. Slotting can help remove pad glazing, IF YOU DRIVE HARD ENOUGH TO GLAZE THE PADS TO BEGIN WITH (Doubtful), but at the expense of pad life and increased brake dust (corrosive) everywhere.

Just because it sounds cool and race cars use something doesn't make it any better, especially in the wrong application. Do some research rather than taking a forum "opinion" as gospel.


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Cruizer

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I'm have drilled slotted rotors and ceramic pads in my garage ready to go. I must be a moron!!
 
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