Vehicle will not start.

[Gr8Blac]

The issue started maybe two weeks ago. While driving the engine just died. Put the truck in park, started the vehicle just fine. Happened a few more times until last week it would not start back up. Would turn over then shut off. My thought was fuel pump, but now engine won't turn at all. Checked battery and getting 10.9. Took off starter and got it tested at O'riley's and passed all tests. Cleaned all negative terminals and nothing. Attempted to start with charger on and nothing. My thought is it was something to do with Viper autostarter/alarm system. When I would press the button to start it, sometimes it would start, and others it would attempt to then fail. Then when I put the key in ignition, no problem. Trucks been in do it yourself shop now for a week and bill is adding up. Any suggestions?

 

[hotrod45]

Get a load test on that battery.

 

[Elevated 2013]

The battery being at 10.9 volts means the battery is shot to begin with. I would say test it again with the meter leads on both battery terminals and have someone try to start the engine and if it drops near 10 volts there as well, then it’s definitely done. Replace the battery. If that’s been done already, it may be the Viper alarm control module is bad or has a battery shutoff/disconnect inside of it and has triggered that.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

With a battery at only 10.9V, it's time to replace it. If this was a good, fully charged battery it would only be allowed to drop to 9.6V while cranking for 15 seconds to be considered a good battery.

Now, for the Viper alarm. Look at the underside of the steering column and over towards the push button start, you will probably see where the alarm has been spliced into the starting/ignition circuit. Most of them have a one-wire setup that blocks the cranking or ignition signal from occuring if the alarm has been tripped. You should be able to disconnect the splice and just bypass it all together to see if you can crank the engine.
I would still get a good battery under the hood before any more diagnostics are performed so you don't waste a lot of your time and money.

 

[Ashton]

I try to use the kiss method, albeit i don't know the mileage on the truck, but it's a 2010 so it shouldn't have crazy issues.. So first did you get an MIL indicator the first time it shut off? I agree with the above posts, the battery is toast. Did you get the charging system checked? With a bad alt would truck would still start but will not stay running once the battery is drained (the battery is feeding the entire system rather than the alternator feeding the main electrical systems) The alarm system would be my next check on the list. Did you have professionally wired or did you do it yourself? I usually stay away from car alarms/interlocks for reasons like this. When they get older a whole bunch of gremlins to deal with. If all is good (once new battery is in) but still won't run and you are thinking its fuel turn on the ign and listen to hear if the pump is priming. Also have you ever replaced the battery in the key, that can cause trouble starts if it loses signal mid crank..