WDH Shank Size

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RndmGlitch

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So, just got my 2020 Power Wagon and was not thinking about this at the time. The WDH I have for my RV has a 2" shank, while the hitch on the Power Wagon has a 2 1/2" shank. I know there is the provided adapter, but that just does not seem like a good idea to me. The WDH I have is an Eaz-Lift R6 and it looks like to me everyone they make is just a 2" shank.

What is everyone else doing with the WDHs? Just using the adapter or searching around for a new 2 1/2" drop shank?
 

crash68

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Doesn't look like Camco makes a 2.5" drop shank, you could go with a 2" adapter sleave(make sure it's rated for use with a WDH).
Check the WDH pin spacing, you may be able to find a drop shank with the same adjustment hole spacing. Curt and several other manufacturer's use 1.25" on-center spacing between the holes.
 

Travelin Ram

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I use the sleeve sometimes, I wouldn’t give it a second thought. Obviously the WDH is rated for your trailer weight or you wouldn’t have used it before, right?

The 2.5 is there because newer trucks are raising the bar and towing capacities are exceeding what the 2” could handle. Not the PW, but I can see the logic of using the same receiver on all HD trucks.

I do also have some 2.5” drawbars just for the PW only because it’s simple and maybe a little rattle could be eliminated. But you won’t have any rattling from the sleeve with a WDH because it’s under constant torsion.
 

2003F350

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The adapter is going to rattle just a bit when you're unloaded, unless you add some kind of dampener or shims. Personally I have never worried about it.

The adapter that comes with your Power Wagon will be fine. Once your drawbar is pinned in place and you hook up, you are putting the steel in compression, which it can easily handle.

Ford has been doing this on their F450s since at least 2008, and the weak point is still the drawbar. You won't have any issues using the adapter.
 
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RndmGlitch

RndmGlitch

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Yea, the WDH was matched with the TT when we purchased it. At that time I was using a 1500. I have just never been a huge fan of adapters, and less so when there are 3-4 tons behind me. Thanks for the reassurance.
 

G. Mcpherson

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Check out E trailer. I purchased one from them and it works and fits well.
 

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I am not a fan of adapters so I got this 2 1/2" shank for my 2020 3500

Equalizer (Fastway), 2 1/2" x 8" Drop - # 90-02-4225
 

2003F350

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I am not a fan of adapters so I got this 2 1/2" shank for my 2020 3500

Equalizer (Fastway), 2 1/2" x 8" Drop - # 90-02-4225

As an engineer, I hate having a 'step' in something like that. Without doing the math, I'm going to say it's probably fine due to the fact that it's out there - but that 'step' instantly creates an unnecessary stress point. If a part like that is pushed to its limits, that stress point is where it is going to fail.

Bushings, however, which these adapters basically are, are much less prone to failure, because they don't create these unnecessary stress points.
 

IRSmart

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I’ve had my sleeve installed since day 1 of my trucks existence and it’s never been removed for more than a few seconds. I run with a hitch shackle and locking pin at all times, so it’s always unloaded and I’ve never heard it rattle. It is a very well designed adaptor. In fact all the hitch accessories I’ve purchased have been class IV so I can use them on other rigs on the trail if I need to, since I’m typically the only class V out there.
 

John Jensen

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As an engineer, I hate having a 'step' in something like that. Without doing the math, I'm going to say it's probably fine due to the fact that it's out there - but that 'step' instantly creates an unnecessary stress point. If a part like that is pushed to its limits, that stress point is where it is going to fail.

Bushings, however, which these adapters basically are, are much less prone to failure, because they don't create these unnecessary stress points.
I understand what you are saying but I don't get your point. It's a class V hitch that calls for a 2 1/2" shank. Are you saying that using the proper size shank is " that 'step' instantly creates an unnecessary stress point" there will be failure prior to the hitch's rating? Or what?
 

SeppW

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So, just got my 2020 Power Wagon and was not thinking about this at the time. The WDH I have for my RV has a 2" shank, while the hitch on the Power Wagon has a 2 1/2" shank. I know there is the provided adapter, but that just does not seem like a good idea to me. The WDH I have is an Eaz-Lift R6 and it looks like to me everyone they make is just a 2" shank.

What is everyone else doing with the WDHs? Just using the adapter or searching around for a new 2 1/2" drop shank?

MRTRUCK has GEN-Y 2.5 receiver hitches; near bottom of page.
 

Trailmaker

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Yea, the WDH was matched with the TT when we purchased it. At that time I was using a 1500. I have just never been a huge fan of adapters, and less so when there are 3-4 tons behind me. Thanks for the reassurance.
Question: do you think the WDH with the 2 shank is less likely to fail over the 2.5 receiver with the 2” receiver adapter?
The same 2” Weight distribution hitch that you used on your 1500 class 4 hitch.
or do you really just want a 2.5 WDH because the Wagon has the class 5 hitch? I have a 2.5 receiver on my PW not because I’m going to pull 21,000 pounds but because I traded my f-250 in and the hitch fit. Now the adapters for cars to receive a 2” into their 1-1/2 hitch, I see as a problem. But that’s because of leverage (to make that adapter work)

FB687506-0C4E-4E87-9E20-A47BDA882648.jpeg
 

Lantraxco

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The sleeve being just a spacer will never be a failure point. The pin however being changed from a two shear point situation to a bending moment situation, may give up at some point. The pin is the weak point for these hitches in my opinion, even when using the 2.5" shank. YMMV
 

2003F350

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I understand what you are saying but I don't get your point. It's a class V hitch that calls for a 2 1/2" shank. Are you saying that using the proper size shank is " that 'step' instantly creates an unnecessary stress point" there will be failure prior to the hitch's rating? Or what?

I'm not saying that it WILL fail in this situation. What I'm saying is that WHENEVER you have a 'step' in a part, and you apply a load that is not compression, that step creates a large stress point, and stress points are where parts fail.

In this situation, that step is unnecessary when the adapter would eliminate the step, and thus eliminate the stress point.

I am speaking purely in analysis. If the manufacturer of that drawbar did their homework, and you never go over the rated weight of that drawbar, then you will be fine. But a standard drawbar, I'll bet, has a higher rating than that stepped drawbar, even when put into the adapter.

Basically, you paid quite a bit of money for something you really didn't need.
 

Shadillac

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Just rocking the adapter. No issues other than remembering to put it back under the rear seat when putting the hitch away. I don’t tow that often, maybe 4 times a year.
 

marks146

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So, just got my 2020 Power Wagon and was not thinking about this at the time. The WDH I have for my RV has a 2" shank, while the hitch on the Power Wagon has a 2 1/2" shank. I know there is the provided adapter, but that just does not seem like a good idea to me. The WDH I have is an Eaz-Lift R6 and it looks like to me everyone they make is just a 2" shank.

What is everyone else doing with the WDHs? Just using the adapter or searching around for a new 2 1/2" drop shank?

I've been using the 2" adapter since 2015 without issue. I pull a 7500# TT a couple times a year using a WD bar hitch with dual antisway bars.
 

NH RAM

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I had to get a larger drop for the WDH on the 2500 coming from the 1500, so I got the 2.5" while I was at it. I just hat having to keep the sleeve in there as stuff likes to rust here in New England, and I've seen the spacers rust pretty solidly into the receiver. It's not likely in my situation, but since I had to upgrade anyway, it was an easy choice to make. I have a Blue Ox Swaypro setup with 9" drop for our TT.
 
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