Weighed my truck & trailer. Wdh dialed in enough?

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Gero

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First weigh is the truck, then truck with trailer but no wdh bars and finally truck and trailer with bars.


My gvwr is 6900lbs and looks like I'm over at 7400lbs (steer and drive combined).

I can increase the bar tension by raising it but then it wont be parallel to the frame.

What do you guys think? Also i'm over my gvwr by 520lbs.

20200719_161945.jpg

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U&A

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I don’t know much about this but i don’t think it sounds right to go past parallel

Im here to learn


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NewBlackDak

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Looks light on the steer axle to me. I don’t know how your hitch adjusts, but changing the ball angle on most hitches will get more weight distributed to the front.


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U&A

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I never knew how far the WD hitches stuck out compared to normal drop hitches

Maybe @AFMoulton or @Hemi395 can help


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crash68

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Adjust the hitch to shift the load more to the front and you might need to move some weight in the trailer to more centered over the axles. Being over the GVWR is one thing, it's going over the GAWR that would be more of a concern.
 

Quyonmob

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520lbs over, was the cab full of people and the bed full of coolers and gear too? If not you will be way over.
 

392DevilDog

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Adjust the hitch to shift the load more to the front and you might need to move some weight in the trailer to more centered over the axles. Being over the GVWR is one thing, it's going over the GAWR that would be more of a concern.
He is quite a bit over on drive axle weight rating.

Sure it will be fine...every one drives their 1500 over capacity.

I would see what cargo if any can be moved to the trailer and cab.

And I would say there is more weight that can be moved back to the steer axle with the WDH.

He started with 3500...if he can get that back with the WDH...the drive axle should come back to with in GAWR.

And then tow away
 
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Gero

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Yes that weight is with the truck loaded and full of passengers.

The wdh does add 150lbs back to the front axles but it's still down a lot compared to the truck without the trailer.
 

crash68

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He is quite a bit over on drive axle weight rating.

Sure it will be fine...every one drives their 1500 over capacity.

I would see what cargo if any can be moved to the trailer and cab.

And I would say there is more weight that can be moved back to the steer axle with the WDH.

He started with 3500...if he can get that back with the WDH...the drive axle should come back to with in GAWR.
Moving cargo from the bed to the camper will probably be a definite and he might not get all of the front weight back depending on the passengers in the cab. Might see how it tows once the rear weight is at GAWR.
Something to keep in mind when towing heavy like this, changes to even the passengers in the cab will be felt how the truck/trailer tows.
I would check the manufacturer of the WDH on the placement of spring bar mounts on the trailer. They look a bit far forward, may have to raise the battery box up to be able to move those mounts further back to get more use of the bars.
 

392DevilDog

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@Gero

Lets get a few numbers from your configuration.

Looks like a Crew 5'7 bed. 4x4 Hemi.

8spd auto?

What rear gear?

Can you humor me and give the GAWR from your door jamb and the listed payload.

GVWR 6900

GAWR front 3900
GAWR rear. 3900

GCWR. 3.21 13800 3.92 15950

Payload

Curb weight

Might as well get all the facts right.
 
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392DevilDog

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@Gero

You are well under GCWR. That is good. You are in a good place with front GAWR...you just need to get more of it back, for steering and stopping.

Your rear GAWR is too high. You will have issues...unless you get more of it to the steer and trailer axles.

GVWR of 7420 I wouldnt sweat...if you can distribute it under the 3900 GAWR.

You are so close.

Adjust that WDH and you may just have a win
 

GsRAM

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I believe You need to angle the hitch head/ball more towards the rear. I could be wrong, I'm not familiar with that style of wdh. I use the old school chain type weight bars. I dont know how that is done with that particular hitch, you'll need to look at the instructions for it.

When you do that, you should be able to put more tension on the weight bars and transfer more weight back to the steer axle. If your GRAWR is 3900 as 392 states, you must correct that. GRAWR is the most important number not to exceed regularly or your going to hurt rear end components over time (premature failure). As was said prior, at present, your wdh is not transferring much of the weight to the steer axle, i believe due to my above thoughts.

Further as stated, it's also important to return most of the original, unloaded weight back to that steer axle so you have proper tire traction, proper steering response and braking out of that steer axle.
 

HDGoose

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What tires are you running? Passenger or LT? The LT tires will have a higher load capacity.
 

OC455

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If you could get 200lbs to 300lbs off the rear to the front, you'd be good to go. As others suggested, try to get the head of the hitch tilted a bit more and that would help.

Maybe moving the spring bar brackets back would help a bit too, depending on how much room you have to do it, without them slipping off the bracket perch...

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Brian Lee

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Something doesn't look right. Is the top bolt of the ball mount actually go through the reciever mount? I have a Husky Centerline that I use and have included a couple pictures of the ball angle and where the bars actually make contact with the plates. I believe there are 3 washers on mine that create the downward angle of the ball which gives you more tension on the bars20200720_131728.jpg 20200720_131744.jpg 20200720_132800.jpg
 
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Gero

Gero

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I think you guys are right on the money about the ball head angle. I only have one washer and it doesnt look like there much angle. Going to add 2more washers and go from there. I redistributed the weight in my it's basement and it definitely improved the towing experience and a bit less squat.

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1595272902131304275779619923663.jpg
 

392DevilDog

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Yep, get that head tilted, which will give you more room to pull up the bars. And move the mount on your tongue back.

And now that I seen your post in the camping thread...21 foot and those adjustments. You will enjoy the tow.

Get that rear GAWR below 3900 and more back on the front and dont sweat the GVWR too much. But if you can remove some things from the load in the truck...all the better.
 

GsRAM

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I think you guys are right on the money about the ball head angle. I only have one washer and it doesnt look like there much angle. Going to add 2more washers and go from there. I redistributed the weight in my it's basement and it definitely improved the towing experience and a bit less squat.

View attachment 216134

View attachment 216136


Yep, good photos. They confirm what I suspected. Get the hitch head tilted more to the rear, more tension on the bars and then weigh it again, fully loaded and see where your at.
 
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