What did you do to/with your second gen today?

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dapepper9

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Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9L V8
Got the rotating assembly back awhile ago. Pistons are on rods and oil control rings are on pistoms. Have head gaskets ready to go on when the bottom end goes together.

Cracked the transfer case about 2 weeks ago. Had a leak that I tried to reseal and the 5 minute test drive cracked the case. Driveshaft needed rebalanced. Got that done and got the case welded at work. All back together and working great so far. Now I'm moving onto finishing up doing my exhaust for the upteenth time
 

Joe w.

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Engine
318 5.2l
Filled up the truck and we hit the Blue Ridge Parkway all the way to the Boone NC junction where we went for food then back home. Ended up being over 230 mile round trip with alot of great scenery.
 

Okiespaniel

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19 years ago on the 19th of May, 2001 I purchased my truck.

19 years...the truck celebrated too. The A/C stopped working and it appears I have another leak. I filled the system with a dye charge. I may have to add some more freon...so I may throw some leak stop in.

And the power steering pump leaks. I may try some BG seal conditioner.

Poor Mr. Drip. He was leak free and sober for 8 months
 

justtruckn

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hopewell
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87 96 01
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318 360 345
fixed the leak in the P/S and the exaust .... put 1000 miles on it going to pick up my 401 for the hornet .... and im still trying to sell it .... lol. other than that .... just been enjoying it with the cold A/C running.
 

justtruckn

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replaced all the lug nuts. gave it a bath... now its going to rain.
 

Spike95

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Houston
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I installed the 2008.5 T-style steering upgrade to my 2001 1500 4x4. So now I have the beefier version of 3/4 ton steering. It looks stout and feels smooth as silk.
 

justtruckn

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the old girl just doing what she do ....
101558703_696210311214436_643361357634207744_o.jpg
 

justtruckn

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I installed the 2008.5 T-style steering upgrade to my 2001 1500 4x4. So now I have the beefier version of 3/4 ton steering. It looks stout and feels smooth as silk.
2008.5 T style ????
 

Spike95

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2008.5 T style ????

T-style refers to the shape of the linkage (the original was Y-style).
It is an upgraded version of steering linkage that they made for 2500 and 3500 starting mid year in 2008. They recalled the 2003 to early 2008 trucks to install this part. It also happens to be a direct bolt on for any 4wd from 2000 or later.
 

DodgeLady

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926e6602fe7a370031df0facd199596b.jpg


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Joe w.

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T-style refers to the shape of the linkage (the original was Y-style).
It is an upgraded version of steering linkage that they made for 2500 and 3500 starting mid year in 2008. They recalled the 2003 to early 2008 trucks to install this part. It also happens to be a direct bolt on for any 4wd from 2000 or later.
Where can I order this from I'm thinking of replacing mine with the T-style.
 

Spike95

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dapepper9

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Well I've been away for awhile. Hardly drive the truck anymore. Slowly been finishing up putting the other engine together. Found a hole in the frame in a section I thought was rust free. Replaced the steering box with a redhead and now my steering is worse than it was before. Redhead told me to change the 1 year old, 3000 miles on it pump and it helped but didn't actually give good steering no matter how much I bleed everything. Kinda hard to stay motivated on the old thing. Still a joy to drive and use and all but just needs so much lol
 

DodgeLady

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I’m getting my “new” dash tomorrow!
I’m going to replace the vent doors and actuators, too.
2891b679ea72cc5fabd800e12b1b7e47.jpg
This is a HUGE challenge for me. I have the service manual, a notebook, and an old phone to take a lot of pictures.


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DodgeLady

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Well I've been away for awhile. Hardly drive the truck anymore. Slowly been finishing up putting the other engine together. Found a hole in the frame in a section I thought was rust free. Replaced the steering box with a redhead and now my steering is worse than it was before. Redhead told me to change the 1 year old, 3000 miles on it pump and it helped but didn't actually give good steering no matter how much I bleed everything. Kinda hard to stay motivated on the old thing. Still a joy to drive and use and all but just needs so much lol

I can so relate...


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CYSTemrebel

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R R 1 Harrowsmith
Ram Year
2008
Engine
hemi 5.7 liter
Well I've been away for awhile. Hardly drive the truck anymore. Slowly been finishing up putting the other engine together. Found a hole in the frame in a section I thought was rust free. Replaced the steering box with a redhead and now my steering is worse than it was before. Redhead told me to change the 1 year old, 3000 miles on it pump and it helped but didn't actually give good steering no matter how much I bleed everything. Kinda hard to stay motivated on the old thing. Still a joy to drive and use and all but just needs so much lol

Noting my 2008 at over 200,000 miles is exhibiting wear out/failure of parts that could have easily been made to last a lot longer. Small things like the hood release cable ball end is worn so much it pulls through the release lever catch. Fixed that by placing a split washer on the cable just behind the worn ball and it works fine. Then there is the rear fenders pinch joint defect. Not to mention the cheap plastic emergency brake lever release that has weakened and failed. Fixed that too improvisionally to save fifty dollars. Then there was the recent starter failure where a multi strand copper cable openly exposed to the elements rotted. I bought a non OEM starter and will fix the old one. I replaced the whole front end with an after market one far better quality and having grease nipples like they used to. The hood has metal support bars as structure and they are all rotting from rust. All these and more were and are unnecessary failures were they engineered and made in a common sense manner. Really though, an uninsulated copper wire cable open to salt? That is gross negligence. Most newer vehicles are sub standard and not made to last like the old ones. I have a 1979 Chev van with no rust, and all original parts save tires and a few exterior light bulbs. I am not a conspiratorialist, and my truck has given long service but cheap skating on things is in fact a common practice anymore that definably is done for more profits in cheaper production and later sales of parts that could easily be constructed of better quality materials. I refer to ALL newer vehicles as compared to their sturdier forbearers.
 

Okiespaniel

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Engine
magnum, 5.9
Well I've been away for awhile. Hardly drive the truck anymore. Slowly been finishing up putting the other engine together. Found a hole in the frame in a section I thought was rust free. Replaced the steering box with a redhead and now my steering is worse than it was before. Redhead told me to change the 1 year old, 3000 miles on it pump and it helped but didn't actually give good steering no matter how much I bleed everything. Kinda hard to stay motivated on the old thing. Still a joy to drive and use and all but just needs so much lol


I know the feeling! Don't give up!

Mr Drip has been bleeding power steering fluid out of the pump front seal for a while...marking his turf throughout the Tulsa metropolitan area.
I went down and talked to my mechanic about replacing, actually rebuilding the original part. He went over to one of his work benches, reached to a box on top of a pile of parts and grabbed a small box.
"Try this" he says. It's an ATP product designed to stop leaks n PS pumps, transmissions and other gear boxes.
For a 8oz bottle it sure is heavy. Got some glycol type product in it. I pour it in the pump, filling it, and drove home.

That was 3 weeks ago. Checked the ps fluid today and it's still full. Don't know what's in that magic voodoo stuff but I love it.

Since I stooped the bleeding, Mr Drip decided his A/C should stop working. So I put a dye shot in. No dye and air gets warmer. Thought I overfilled the system, so I bleed it. No worky.

I start hearing strange grinding sounds from under the dash. Come to find the blend door isn't working. That little link between the motor and the door broke! while I hear it's a common problem, mine waited 19 years to become one.

Total pain to remove motor thanks to some moron of an engineer. Couldn't wedge my fat, gimped up old **** up under the dash to get that back screw out. So....I remove the passenger seat...and am painfully reminded that the center console must be removed as well!

Once the interior was cleared I was able to see what I was doing and get the blend motor out. Now it works but I needed more freon. Got a can of voodoo leak stop R 134 and filled it. For now I have cold air. Maybe too much compressor oil, but I got cold air.

Tomorrow I'll deep clean the rubber mat and shampoo the seats.

The convertible lost it's power brake booster and the Charger has a leaking thermostat seal.
 

dapepper9

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Iowa/Nebraska Border
Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9L V8
I know the feeling! Don't give up!

Mr Drip has been bleeding power steering fluid out of the pump front seal for a while...marking his turf throughout the Tulsa metropolitan area.
I went down and talked to my mechanic about replacing, actually rebuilding the original part. He went over to one of his work benches, reached to a box on top of a pile of parts and grabbed a small box.
"Try this" he says. It's an ATP product designed to stop leaks n PS pumps, transmissions and other gear boxes.
For a 8oz bottle it sure is heavy. Got some glycol type product in it. I pour it in the pump, filling it, and drove home.

That was 3 weeks ago. Checked the ps fluid today and it's still full. Don't know what's in that magic voodoo stuff but I love it.

Since I stooped the bleeding, Mr Drip decided his A/C should stop working. So I put a dye shot in. No dye and air gets warmer. Thought I overfilled the system, so I bleed it. No worky.

I start hearing strange grinding sounds from under the dash. Come to find the blend door isn't working. That little link between the motor and the door broke! while I hear it's a common problem, mine waited 19 years to become one.

Total pain to remove motor thanks to some moron of an engineer. Couldn't wedge my fat, gimped up old **** up under the dash to get that back screw out. So....I remove the passenger seat...and am painfully reminded that the center console must be removed as well!

Once the interior was cleared I was able to see what I was doing and get the blend motor out. Now it works but I needed more freon. Got a can of voodoo leak stop R 134 and filled it. For now I have cold air. Maybe too much compressor oil, but I got cold air.

Tomorrow I'll deep clean the rubber mat and shampoo the seats.

The convertible lost it's power brake booster and the Charger has a leaking thermostat seal.
Knock on wood but I still have yet to have that blend door issue. I DID have an issue where it was sticking and I sent an entire winter without heat because we couldn’t figure it out. I was only 16 at the time and could barely change my own oil. With the truck off you could hear it trying to move if you cycled the heat setting. Did that a couple dozen tones and what do you know suddenly had heat! Too bad it was mid friggin March by the time we found that. That was a damn cold winter that year too. Short winter but so so cold lol.

I’m at a point on the engine where I need to make a serious decision and I’m not sure where to go. Tuner had me convinced to fan up a turbo system. That would give me the boosted setup I’ve been dreaming about forever. Recommended turbo was a BotgWarner s400-75 or S475 for short and in a t6 housing. Will support 900+ at the crank if you push it but can easily make 700+ on low boost levels. It’s also “Chinese turbo” level cheap. Picked up a rebuilt unit for $450 retail. Things are a dime a dozen. The problem with running a turbo is the complexity hot side is all custom and though I’m a decent self-taught welder and I have all the cutting tools necessary, tubing and time aren’t cheap. Then the 70# turbo (yeah she’s heavy B) needs a mount to support it because you cannot use the hot side piping to do it. You’ll just crack and break it. That’s all before you get cold side fit in. And cold sides are typically aluminum and while I have the welder to do aluminum I’m not yet good enough at it to even attempt that. AND THEN my engine ended up having more compression than I originally intended because I missed a measurement (compression height) and now it’s a static 11:1 longblock lol. 91 is the best fuel available to me aside from E85 and the fuel system to support E85 is big, complex and expensive. I could do it on 91 but it would be edgy probably. At least if I push it it would.

Or I could just order a larger cam that’s better suited to NA operation and have an 11:1 365 that I shift at 65-6700. My daily driver F150 makes power to 7000 and it’s an absolute riot to drive and makes about the same amount of power the finished 365 would. It’s also a heavier truck with less gearing. As happy with it as I am I think I would be thrilled at the dodge with the screaming 365. But then I spent all this time and bellyaching to have a healthy 365 with no boost lol.

I’m just going to take my time and not rush into anything else for the moment.
 

Okiespaniel

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This morning....
Dirty white boy about to get a good scrubbing!
IMG_20200613_080159[1].jpg

Every seat got shampooed!
IMG_20200613_105906[1].jpg

IMG_20200613_082537[1].jpg
^ Had to fix a crack in the trim piece that covers the air bag mounting screws over the glove box. Some testor's glue and scrap styrene did the trick.

After supper it'll be cool enough to go out and bolt down the passenger seat. Maybe I'll reattach the console too!
 
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