What is this piece?

[toddcarlson10]

I found this plastic neck broken. I want to order a new part but am struggling to find what piece it is. I believe it is on top of my fuel tank. I have attached photos for reference. Any ideas on what it is?

 

[HuskerRam]

Looks like the fuel tank vent valve. *MIGHT* be P/N 68621194AA, but you'll want to double check.

 

[Wild one]

I found this plastic neck broken. I want to order a new part but am struggling to find what piece it is. I believe it is on top of my fuel tank. I have attached photos for reference. Any ideas on what it is?

2006-2018 Jeep Wrangler - Fix Broken Plastic Nipple at Fuel Tank - Girlie Garage

This started out as a P0456 - small EVAP leak, then grew into the plastic nipple at the fuel tank breaking off. I hope this helps someone!If you want to supp...

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Jeep Wrangler JK - Evap Emissions Problem Fixed - Gas Tank Broken Nipple Repair - $20 Fix.

How to fix a broken Evap Line nipple on Jeep JK Gas tanks. This may apply to other Mopar vehicles of the mid 2010s error, Dodge, Jeep, Chrysler. I was gett...

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2010 Jeep Wrangler Evap Leak - How to Find, How to Fix, & How to Confirm Repair - DTC P0456 P0455

https://amzn.to/3JxH5cw - INNOVA 5610 OBD2 Bidirectional Scan Tool - Vehicle Code Scanner and Reader - Troubleshoot OEM Codes - Clear Check Engine Light - 7 ...

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[Sherman Bird]

I found this plastic neck broken. I want to order a new part but am struggling to find what piece it is. I believe it is on top of my fuel tank. I have attached photos for reference. Any ideas on what it is?

It is on the rollover valve, and they break when you breathe on them just a little! . You will likely have to buy a new tank, because that plastic hates EVERY type of glue I've tried!

 

[RamInfo]

Hhhmmm…if it were my truck I’d be slipping a piece of hose and a hose clamp on the stub and splicing it into the line…

Best,
RI

 

[Sherman Bird]

Hhhmmm…if it were my truck I’d be slipping a piece of hose and a hose clamp on the stub and splicing it into the line…

Best,
RI

you cant! It breaks off (as it did here) right at the support molded into the fitting, thus, there is no way to slip rubber hose onto the stub. Believe me, I tried on a fuel tank which cost over 800 dollars 4 times. None of the adhesives worked.

 

[Wild one]

you cant! It breaks off (as it did here) right at the support molded into the fitting, thus, there is no way to slip rubber hose onto the stub. Believe me, I tried on a fuel tank which cost over 800 dollars 4 times. None of the adhesives worked.

The old 2 part original JB Weld will stick to it,especially if you rough up the pieces slightly with sandpaper. And no you didn't try it,so don't try and say you did,lol

 

[Sherman Bird]

The old 2 part original JB Weld will stick to it,especially if you rough up the pieces slightly with sandpaper. And no you didn't try it,so don't try and say you did,lol

Please tell me the brand of smart pill you take!

 

[markabby]

ok...i'll try my redneck fix here....heat up a 1/4" copper tube and slide it into the white end. cut off that fancy connector and slide that hose over the copper tube. clamp this end, seal the other with some kind of stuff.

it might or could work....theoretically...in my mind it does. lol

 

[Wild one]

Please tell me the brand of smart pill you take!

Because if you'd tried the old original JB Weld you wouldn't say nothing sticks to plastic ,lol. I used to build slotcar armature balancers using razor blades glued to plate glass,and JB Weld would stick to plate glass good enough to pull chunks out of the glass if you mounted the razor blade wrong,and tried to remove the blade after the JB cured.Hell i've glued engine block cracks together with the stuff. You need to think outside the box dude,normal CA glues won't stick worth $h!t and that's what you were using

 

[Sherman Bird]

Because if you'd tried the old original JB Weld you wouldn't say nothing sticks to plastic ,lol. I used to build slotcar armature balancers using razor blades glued to plate glass,and JB Weld would stick to plate glass good enough to pull chunks out of the glass if you mounted the razor blade wrong,and tried to remove the blade after the JB cured.Hell i've glued engine block cracks together with the stuff. You need to think outside the box dude,normal CA glues won't stick worth $h!t and that's what you were using

You must have new batteries in your 8-ball!

 

[Wild one]

You must have new batteries in your 8-ball!

Smart enough to know you were using CA glues and not a glue that'd stick to plastic old timer

 

[Hagar1]

Because if you'd tried the old original JB Weld you wouldn't say nothing sticks to plastic ,lol. I used to build slotcar armature balancers using razor blades glued to plate glass,and JB Weld would stick to plate glass good enough to pull chunks out of the glass if you mounted the razor blade wrong,and tried to remove the blade after the JB cured.Hell i've glued engine block cracks together with the stuff. You need to think outside the box dude,normal CA glues won't stick worth $h!t and that's what you were using

My son used JB weld to put a chunk of engine block back in place on his VW Jetta diesel. He drove it over 60 thousand kilometer after the fix, no leaks. That stuff works.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Smart enough to know you were using CA glues and not a glue that'd stick to plastic old timer

I don't use super glue, period. The 2 part epoxy is EXACTLY what I used the first time, and I let it cure over night.
The problem WASN'T the glue. The problem was the way that fitting was originally molded with a bolster under the tube part up to the outer perimeter of the circular upper body of that roll over valve.
It just would NOT adhere in spite of me roughing the plastic up with sand paper. SO, I machined a small piece of aluminum and drilled it out to provide reinforcement to the whole thing, cleaned out all the epoxy, and re glued it.
Since the molded hose uses a quick connect which must grip the tiny flange molded into the tube, MOST of the epoxy must be removed to get the outer diameter down to where one can push the hose back onto the fitting and not encounter interference, and the bolster underneath made it VERY tough to accomplish.
Two more attempts made me advise the customer to just go ahead and buy a new tank. A new tank solved the problem, albeit expensive. This was the 2nd of that design which attempts to patch that same fitting failed.

About 2 months ago, I had a 2013 Ram 1500 4-door crew. I was replacing the fuel pump, and nearly danced a jig when I was able to get the hose off the fitting without breaking it off. (They are extremely brittle with age and use.)
Luck ran out, however, when I attempted to re-install the hose, ever so deftly. It snapped off.

In THAT case, I machined a piece of aluminum, but longer this time, and plastic welded the broken piece. I had to tweak the outer surface with the hot tip (It resembles a soldering iron) so I could have clearance for the quick fitting. The truck has been fine since, and has passed EVAP monitor.

That first attempt was on a 2012 Jeep Wrangler 4 door 3.6.

 

[Wild one]

I don't use super glue, period. The 2 part epoxy is EXACTLY what I used the first time, and I let it cure over night.
The problem WASN'T the glue. The problem was the way that fitting was originally molded with a bolster under the tube part up to the outer perimeter of the circular upper body of that roll over valve.
It just would NOT adhere in spite of me roughing the plastic up with sand paper. SO, I machined a small piece of aluminum and drilled it out to provide reinforcement to the whole thing, cleaned out all the epoxy, and re glued it.
Since the molded hose uses a quick connect which must grip the tiny flange molded into the tube, MOST of the epoxy must be removed to get the outer diameter down to where one can push the hose back onto the fitting and not encounter interference, and the bolster underneath made it VERY tough to accomplish.
Two more attempts made me advise the customer to just go ahead and buy a new tank. A new tank solved the problem, albeit expensive. This was the 2nd of that design which attempts to patch that same fitting failed.

About 2 months ago, I had a 2013 Ram 1500 4-door crew. I was replacing the fuel pump, and nearly danced a jig when I was able to get the hose off the fitting without breaking it off. (They are extremely brittle with age and use.)
Luck ran out, however, when I attempted to re-install the hose, ever so deftly. It snapped off.

In THAT case, I machined a piece of aluminum, but longer this time, and plastic welded the broken piece. I had to tweak the outer surface with the hot tip (It resembles a soldering iron) so I could have clearance for the quick fitting. The truck has been fine since, and has passed EVAP monitor.

That first attempt was on a 2012 Jeep Wrangler 4 door 3.6.

And there's your problem 2 part Epoxy is "Not" JB Weld . 2 part epoxy is basically useless on plastic