What would you do?

[NanaW]

I don't recall exactly what it cost me to fix the hood. At the same time I had my Rocker's sprayed with Speedliner, and 3M's Cavity Wax sprayed in all the well known areas where the cancer attacks first. Everything at that time was around a couple grand.

I guess what I should have asked is do you remember what caused the bubbling ?


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[Fitz-0518]

I am doing the Ben Franklin plus or minus. Lifetime warranty. Truck is paid for. Cost to repair $1800. If valve train lets go, cost to you for repair is $100 or $200 deductible. Insurance will not get higher. DMV will not go higher. 10 yr old truck. Cost per year to own today,,,$180. Economics say keep it. You know this truck. Fix it. You will smile. But,,,I am bias. My 03 is 16 years old and has 232k miles. But I have more confidence in it than my wife's 2018 2500 6.4. Fitz

 

[McBroom]

Yep, my '08 had the same issue around the wheel wells. You'll probably see it on the other wheel wells too, All my friends with that Gen RAM have the same issue. If the rest of the truck is doing well, and there's no other reason to replace it then find a good box and paint the truck. That said, if it were me, I'd trade it.

Where are you located? Is that a 5’7” bed??


- The Blue Mule

 

[2k9ram]

My bad i got my years mixed up after reading a couple other posts. U still have the lifetime warranty u spent good money on, and if u kept good records on maintenance and didn't go crazy on mods there shouldn't be any issues on them fixing it. That said, whats an 09 worth, will they pay u out if u do have an engine or trans failure? Versus whats it worth on a trade?

My lifetime warranty was offered by Dodge\RAM when I purchased the truck new. It was one of the incentives that they were running and one of the reasons why I went with the truck. I've kept it as close to stock as I possibly could just so they would honor the Power Train Warranty if\when the time came. I've been through 2 5 year inspections and each time everything has checked out and my Service Advisor checks the box that it continues to qualify for the extended warranty. Anything that I have installed was on the truck during those inspections. I have all my service records in a file stored in the truck.

If I put the money into the truck it surely will be worth more to me than it will be on trade. Not sure how Ram will handle that if the truck is virtually worth more than a Powertrain component that fails. Guess I will keep all my receipts and pose a hell of an argument at that time.

 

[2k9ram]

I am doing the Ben Franklin plus or minus. Lifetime warranty. Truck is paid for. Cost to repair $1800. If valve train lets go, cost to you for repair is $100 or $200 deductible. Insurance will not get higher. DMV will not go higher. 10 yr old truck. Cost per year to own today,,,$180. Economics say keep it. You know this truck. Fix it. You will smile. But,,,I am bias. My 03 is 16 years old and has 232k miles. But I have more confidence in it than my wife's 2018 2500 6.4. Fitz

This has exactly been my mindset to be perfectly honest. My biggest fear with fixing it is the age old statement that once you start fixing rust it will be back faster the second time around. All my local shops are saying they don't believe it and I even have a shop that said he will lifetime warranty the parts he installs because he is that confident in what he is doing. He'd replace the box side, spray POR 15 on the inside of the panels, and then Raptor line around the wheel wells other areas needing protection.

To me even if I ended up spending $10,000 on body repairs it's still cheaper than buying new or used truck... All for the points you made in your statement!

Also, if I can keep it nice for another 10 years my son will be driving. Have to admit it would be pretty cool for him to have his first truck be a 20 year old truck that I purchased new and kept nice for him.

 

[McBroom]

There’s a place close by me that sells used truck beds. I’m in Texas the high heat no rust belt.


- The Blue Mule

 

[Random_Walk]

10 years is a good run...

If you have the skills, I'd say sand and patch, paint with something close-enough, then cover with flares (after treating all the soon-to-be-covered surfaces to prevent hidden rust.)

BUT... if you're itching for a new(er) truck, this is your last and best chance to do it (After fixing the rust spot and putting flares on - you want to do this anyway in order to prevent getting completely screwed when you sell the thing, because "rust!" will drop the final sale price lower than the cost of the flares and prep.)

 

[2k9ram]

There’s a place close by me that sells used truck beds. I’m in Texas the high heat no rust belt.


- The Blue Mule

If you can find a name I'd be happy to look them up and see what they have!

 

[2k9ram]

I guess what I should have asked is do you remember what caused the bubbling ?


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If memory serves me correctly the hood is actually aluminum. From what I was told if you look under the hood there are holes on the bottom side of the hood. What salt\grim gets into these holes and gets trapped in the hood, and while it doesn't rust the same as the steel it will bubbles and then the bubbling will travel. I believe that is how it was explained to me.

 

[McBroom]

If you can find a name I'd be happy to look them up and see what they have!

I’ll be by there the 22nd I’ll get a biz card and send you a pic (PM)


- The Blue Mule

 

[2k9ram]

Buy one of the DIY kits from Corrosionfree.com and treat the crap out of it now and then again if you fix it. The undercarriage of my 13 looks new after 6 salt state winters. Treat it every 18 months. Stuff works.

The body shop I am looking at doing the work coats everything in POR 15. He believes in the product enough that he said he will warranty the parts he replaces for as long as I own it. While that seems far fetched it does seem like he believes strongly in the product.

In the past I used JB 80 Chain Lube, Oil, and 3M's Cavity Wax. I think I've done well for 10 years. But living in MN it's inevitable....

 

[rule18]

Where are you located? Is that a 5’7” bed??


- The Blue Mule

You mean on my current truck or the '08? I got rid of the '08 when I bought my '17. Yes, the '17 has a 5'7" bed.

 

[McBroom]

You mean on my current truck or the '08? I got rid of the '08 when I bought my '17. Yes, the '17 has a 5'7" bed.

Sorry I quoted on the wrong person
I meant that for the OP. To make sure I check for the right year and length.


- The Blue Mule

 

[Jrod]

I'd consider that truck a gem if the only concern is rust. Get it touched up and keep it.

 

[2k9ram]

Well the old girl is a little worse than I anticipated. The cab corners look like they need to be replaced as well. My shop is telling me that if the cab corners are going the rockers are also going. Long Story short... I can replace both Passenger and Driver side box sides, new rockers and cab corners, POR-15 all panels, Raptor line the Rockers, wheel wells, and have a lifetime warranty on the components replaced for about $8k.

or I just let the old girl go and be content with the rust and whatever it looks like as the cancer spreads.

I owe nothing on the truck, the truck owes me nothing. I can't buy another one that would be as clean and well cared for for $8,000. Most 15-18's are pulling $30-$35k and range from 25k miles on up. No guarantees that anything used won't already have the cancer starting, unless I found something from outside of the salt belt.

I'm still leaning towards fixing, but damn I am hesitant.

 

[2k9ram]

Crawling around under the truck.... Around the in-floor storage box. Something to be alarmed\concerned about?

 

[DodgeDude99]

Replacing a bedside actually is fairly easy if you have a welder. Just leave the paint & any mudwork to the shop.

Skip any POR15, it’s crap.

 

[madtrucker2016]

Have a 2009 Ram 1500 that I've owned since new. I've Speedlined the rockers, had the rockers, cab corners, etc rust prevented with 3M's Cavity Wax. I had the hood fixed with some bubbling that was occurring in the corners. Also had some bubbling on the passenger front door fixed as well.

It currently has 118k miles on it. I've set it up for towing my camper, aftermarket backup camera, Timber Grove Air Bags, Electric Brake Controller, and Tow Mirrors.

Now my dilemma... I noticed rust starting on the passenger side rear wheel well. I'm not one to cover the issue with Flares, and since it's not bad I'm kicking around the idea of trading it off before it gets bad, or fixing it.

What is everyone's thoughts on replacing a box side? Local shops said in many cases it's better than finding a rust free box. Body shops are saying they will warranty for as long as I own it.

OR...

Is it time to trade off since I will always be chasing my tail with rust?

I'm leaning towards replacement of the box side on both sides. (even though the driver side still looks clean)

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you can buy a new bed for like 900 to 1200 depends where you look I would look into a replacement you might get lucky and get the same color as your truck. One time I had a 04 Ram 8foot bed and crew cab, The doors started to rust Guess what got used ones zero rust same color paid 600 for all the doors.

 

[tomb]

I agree with BURLA -just drive as unless you are realy attached to the truck-the other side is not far from rusting out-if you can get a new box and painted for 4k -then thats what i would do.

 

[Dgriffi2]

I had rust over both rear wheels, had oem fender flares put on all the way around. Friend who runs body shop painted then same color as my truck, so my sport looks like a Laramie now. I figure for $500, if I get 5 more years before more rust appears,, it's worth it!