Wheel hub replacement, what else should I change while there.

[stenerson]

My truck just got inspected. It passed but he claimed one of the front wheel hubs is starting to get noisy and recommends changing soon (I can't hear anything except normal tire noise). Almost 120K on my 2018. I've replaced them before in my 3rd gen Ram. At this mileage I'll probably change the upper control arm (I assume the ball joint is part of that) and the lower ball joint. Any recommendations appreciated on brand. (except for moog, had too much bad luck with them).

 

[Sherman Bird]

My truck just got inspected. It passed but he claimed one of the front wheel hubs is starting to get noisy and recommends changing soon (I can't hear anything except normal tire noise). Almost 120K on my 2018. I've replaced them before in my 3rd gen Ram. At this mileage I'll probably change the upper control arm (I assume the ball joint is part of that) and the lower ball joint. Any recommendations appreciated on brand. (except for moog, had too much bad luck with them).

The 4 most expensive words in home improvement and auto repair.... "While you're at it!"...

 

[CanuckRam1313]

The 4 most expensive words in home improvement and auto repair.... "While you're at it!"...

or "Hold My Beer & Watch This!"

 

[stenerson]

The 4 most expensive words in home improvement and auto repair.... "While you're at it!"...

LOL! Yep, you got that right.

 

[stenerson]

In my 3rd gen Ram the upper control arm and upper ball joint were one piece. I've been googling and I notice for this truck they sell just the upper ball joint.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Wheel bearing Mevotech TXF25309
UCA - Mevotech TTX

I beat the living **** out f my truck and havent broken those yet

Both on Rock Auto

 

[Jeepwalker]

I personally wouldn't replace the lower ball joints unless you have reason to believe they're worn. (easy to check). But that's just me.

But I guess if you're inclined to do it, it can't hurt ...so long as you install a high-quality unit.

 

[stenerson]

Wheel bearing Mevotech TXF25309
UCA - Mevotech TTX

I beat the living **** out f my truck and havent broken those yet

Both on Rock Auto

Cool! thanks for the recommendations. I usually only trust Timken when it comes to wheel bearings but I've heard good things about Mevotech.

 

[caulk04]

Brakes are really the only thing that you're going to have out/off as part of that job. Just do the hub and inspect stuff while you're in there.

One of my bearings is starting to grumble and I'm coming up on a brake job. Trying to put it off till the weather breaks, even with a garage.

 

[smoothee]

If you're in the salt belt I would make sure to apply dielectric grease to the new hub connectors. I replaced my bearing assemblies with SKF (which seemed to be another good option up there with Timken) and less than a year later the corrosion had broken one pin off. Didn't have these issues with the OEM connections and yes the connectors were seated properly. So ended up having to replace both pigtails and the OEM connectors.
But as for replacing anything else while you're in there I wouldn't really bother either as it's not a big deal to address again in the future. And another vouch for Mevotech TTX seeming to be good gear.

 

[Hemi395]

I replaced mine with Timkin hubs in the summer of 2021 and they seem to be holding up well.

I had one hell of a time getting the old ones off, salt basically welds them to the knuckle...

 

[stenerson]

Brakes are really the only thing that you're going to have out/off as part of that job. Just do the hub and inspect stuff while you're in there.

One of my bearings is starting to grumble and I'm coming up on a brake job. Trying to put it off till the weather breaks, even with a garage.

I have to take out the steering knuckle to replace bearing. I just figured that at 120K miles those ball joints would be pretty close to the end of their life.

 

[stenerson]

I replaced mine with Timkin hubs in the summer of 2021 and they seem to be holding up well.

I had one hell of a time getting the old ones off, salt basically welds them to the knuckle...

Yep, I've done them several times on my 3rd gen. They get welded in their pretty good.

 

[Sherman Bird]

or "Hold My Beer & Watch Thi

I replaced mine with Timkin hubs in the summer of 2021 and they seem to be holding up well.

I had one hell of a time getting the old ones off, salt basically welds them to the knuckle...

I like Timkin products... but not merely for being a great product, but also for being proactive in doing the right thing.

A number of years ago, I installed a Timkin hub assembly on a 2000 F250 Supercrew 7.3 Diesel, 4WD.

Not long afterward (a few months), I got a letter from Timkin regarding a recall on that particular part number assembly.
In the letter, they requested that I get my customer in for inspection to see if there was a particular color paint hash on the hub. My customer was one of my best, and he understood the situation and I did the inspection, found that that particular color hash mark wasn't one of the defective units, and provided correspondence to Timkin.

They PAID me well for doing that. It wasn't the money, per se, but the fact that a huge corporation would actually respect my effort, expertise, and time by putting their money where their mouth is.

That customer deserved my diligence for participating in the check out and confirmation. !'d have done it for free.... but, then, you know! Lunch for my employees!

 

[Jeepwalker]

I usually try to go OEM when possible. Pretty sure the bearing/hub assemblies on my truck are original (I bought it used) ...with 173k mi. My 89 GM pickup has original hub/bearing assembliies and it has 260+K miles.

On my H3 I discovered I needed a new Hub/Bearing assembly for my H3 when I was doing a pre-vactaion safety check of the vehicle. Like 2 days before leaving ...of course so I didn't have time to order a hub and change it. I ended up getting one off the shelf from OReilly's ...their Duralast, or whatever it was they had in stock (not the cheapest one). Parts store parts aren't what they used to be, but I didn't have much choice. Well, like I always do, I put the dial indicator on it first. It was off .006" run-out at the outer edge of the hub face out of the box! LOL. It was still in sealed plastic. I get nervous when rotors are off .001"! so any deflection from zero is too much. I returned it and ordered a new Delco OEM replacement (and drove a different vehicle on vacation). The Delco, which was more expensive, was an exact match,made in the USA and perfect in every way.

I've installed Moog (branded) bearing/hub assembiles, and Timkin too, on snow plow vehicles before and they seemed to hold up pretty well.

 

[Sherman Bird]

I usually try to go OEM when possible. Pretty sure the bearing/hub assemblies on my truck are original (I bought it used) ...with 173k mi. My 89 GM pickup has original hub/bearing assembliies and it has 260+K miles.

On my H3 I discovered I needed a new Hub/Bearing assembly for my H3 when I was doing a pre-vactaion safety check of the vehicle. Like 2 days before leaving ...of course so I didn't have time to order a hub and change it. I ended up getting one off the shelf from OReilly's ...their Duralast, or whatever it was they had in stock (not the cheapest one). Parts store parts aren't what they used to be, but I didn't have much choice. Well, like I always do, I put the dial indicator on it first. It was off .006" run-out at the outer edge of the hub face out of the box! LOL. It was still in sealed plastic. I get nervous when rotors are off .001"! so any deflection from zero is too much. I returned it and ordered a new Delco OEM replacement (and drove a different vehicle on vacation). The Delco, which was more expensive, was an exact match,made in the USA and perfect in every way.

I've installed Moog (branded) bearing/hub assembiles, and Timkin too, on snow plow vehicles before and they seemed to hold up pretty well.

Yeah, I "try" to go OE on as many parts as the bank account and good sense will afford.... One example is the cost of most GM OE hubs is in the 500-650 $$$ range. The Timkin and other good brands generally come in near the "half that much" cost.
I do have a couple of customers who are totally gung ho for OE. One owns a Honda accord. Last week she needed a power steering pump. Honda quoted nearly 1100 $$$ dollars. In that case, she went with aftermarket due to the fact that the aftermarket pump was 1/3 the amount.

 

[Jeepwalker]

....One example is the cost of most GM OE hubs is in the 500-650 $$$ range.

That's why I usually order OEM stuff off RockAuto. ...But I hear what yer saying. Some/many OEM parts are just outrageous.

 

[CaptJacksRide]

I bought my 2012 3500 knowing the front u-joints were shot so I literally clubbed the unknowing Honda Stealership salesman over the head and got a great deal. Took it home, put it up on jackstands, and completely disassembled. Cleaned, inspected, and reassembled all drive shafts with new Dana u-joints, DynaTrac ball joints, and RamMan lockout hubs. This truck has 109K miles on it and it drives like a brand new truck. DynaTracs will set you back about $750 for the Ram 3500 application but they are bulletproof and can be rebuilt in place. Also, if you plan to do this job yourself I would strongly suggest buying the Snap-On BJP1 universal ball joint tool set and add the specific tools required for Dodge/Ram work. That’ll be another $800 off the truck but these components are massive. The Harbor Freight cheapo or the O’Reilly’s loaner set will not get this job done.

 

[greg mayrhofer]

on my truck 2014 dodge ram 1500, i had to replace my front wheel bearings one was loose sloppy, replaced with Timken and decided to replace the dust plates, upper and lower control arms Mevotechs while i was doing the front bearing hubs, it was worth it ,after 8 to 10 years some major parts will start to fail, got them a all through rock auto

 

[RWlRAM]

If we're talking 4X4 front hubs, be sure to replace the castle nut that holds things in place.

I didn't do it on my '94 and a year later the assembly went south while I was on vacation and got ripped for $800 which lasted another year.

Found out the nut is a ONE TIME use item so third time it lasted for years until the truck was totaled in '17.

Turns out these ON TIME fasteners are not uncommon.
The output pulley on my motorcycle has one.