Wheel Spacer Question (yes I'm sorry)

[P.Lavers]

So my quick question, I have a 2013 1500 leveled with a Pro Comp Nitiro 2.5" front leveling kit. and I have 35" tires on 18" rims. I am rubbing at about 3/4 turn. My question is what size wheel spacers would I have to put on to get a full turn without rubbing? I know I know someone is going to say read the previous threads... but I don't get a solid answer just a bunch of arguing about the "physics" of the spacers and the damage they may or may not do.. I was thinking about a 2" B.O.R.A spacer do you think this will help my rubbing or should I just deal with it since I don't have a 6" lift kit?

 

[derag2]

Are the tires 12.50 wide? And are they factory rims? I don't know the answer but those to questions will help someone else.

 

[chipmaker]

Where's it rubbing? A pic maybe?

 

[Cyborg2337]

Size-wise it sounds like a 1/4" spacer should do the trick. The pro's at Motorsports Tech say that you can safely run up to a 10mm spacer (approx .4"). If you want to go wider than that then you will have to run an adapter (it's own threads and lugs) and the minimum you can safely run with the stock 20" wheels is 1" (I don't know what you're wheels will allow).

 

[Dubstep Shep]

I believe you'll have to cut the ends of your lugs if you do any less than 1.5" spacers. I have to cut the very end off mine with the 1.25" bora spacers.

Honestly it depends on how much it's rubbing. Likely you only need .25"-.5" worth of space to prevent the rubbing.

 

[Mjohnson0504]

Good idea

 

[R.L.K.]

It does depend on where you are rubbing @ 3/4 turn .
If it's the fender wells plastic black liner on the inside , you have a few options .
1) You can cut that ****** liner with scissors or xacto knife .

2) Install a 10 mm hub centric spacer approximately . 4" as stated above by Cyborg2337 .
It's important to understand this is a spacer not a wheel adapter. .

3) wheel adapters aka spacers .
Wheel adapters have wheel studs on them .

As far as a 2" Bora spacer goes this would fix rubbing on the inside , but may cause the rubbing on the outside at full lock

Does your wheels have a bored out area to accept the OEM studs protruding through after the wheel adapter is installed ? If not you will require trimming of your oem studs or installing shorter ones .

If your wheels do have a dished out or bored out area to accept studs from the adapters then it's simple math : measure the depth of the bore = example =.75" bore depth .
Next measure the overall length of your OEM studs = example = 1.75"

To determine the minimum thickness wheel adapter you can install with your wheels bore depth ( if you have this ) known and your OEM stud length known :

Stud length. 1.75"
Bore depth. - .75"
= 1.0"
1.0" thick wheel adapter would be your minimum thickness adapter that could be installed without interference between the oem studs and your wheels mounting surface . ☆☆This is just an example , every setup must be confirmed and measured ☆☆

Hope this helps ! Good luck !

☆☆☆☆☆NOTE ☆☆☆☆NOTE ☆☆☆☆☆

In most cases a 10 mm hub centric wheel spacer will fix your problem .

 

[Stlram21]

It does depend on where you are rubbing @ 3/4 turn .
If it's the fender wells plastic black liner on the inside , you have a few options .
1) You can cut that ****** liner with scissors or xacto knife .

2) 10 mm hub centric spacer aprox. 1/4 " .25" ( not .4" as stated above ) it's important to understand this is a spacer not a wheel adapter. .

3) wheel adapters aka spacers .
Wheel adapters have wheel studs on them .

As far as a 2" Bora spacer goes this would fix rubbing on the inside , but may cause the rubbing on the outside at full lock

Does your wheels have a bored out area to accept the OEM studs protruding through after the wheel adapter is installed ? If not you will require trimming of your oem studs or installing shorter ones .

If your wheels do have a dished out or bored out area to accept studs from the adapters then it's simple math : measure the depth of the bore = example =.75" bore depth .
Next measure the overall length of your OEM studs = example = 1.75"

To determine the minimum thickness wheel adapter you can install with your wheels bore depth ( if you have this ) known and your OEM stud length known :

Stud length. 1.75"
Bore depth. - .75"
= 1.0"
1.0" thick wheel adapter would be your minimum thickness adapter that could be installed without interference between the oem studs and your wheels mounting surface . ☆☆This is just an example , every setup must be confirmed and measured ☆☆

Hope this helps ! Good luck !

☆☆☆☆☆NOTE ☆☆☆☆NOTE ☆☆☆☆☆

In most cases a 10 mm hub centric wheel spacer will fix your problem .

I just bought 1.50" bora wheel spacers for my 2012 because I wanted a slightly bigger offset with my 20x9 0 offset wheel because I'm lifting my truck 6" in two weeks. I test fitted the spacer on a hub and wheel stud was pertruding past the spacer by less than an 1/8" but you could still see it's past when looking from different angles. So what's the easiest/best way to trim the studs back or should I exchange for a bigger spacer? I'm on the fence and can't decide which would be better. Sorry if I'm hijacking but just ran into this issue today.

 

[R.L.K.]

Do your wheels have any bores or a dished out area at all ?
Or is it flat all the way around ?

Did you get hub & wheel centric spacers ? Bora is a great brand imo

 

[AustinB]

I will try my best and see if I am translating what RLK is trying to ask.
(Correct me if I'm wrong)

On the inside of your wheels, where the lugs go... Are there bored out areas beside the holes or is it smooth?

Bored out "areas"

Smooth (nothing between the holes)


I think what he's getting at is that the exposed lugs with go into the bored area and not hit anything.

Again, taking a guess here.


IMO

 

[R.L.K.]

For trimming OEM studs , this is what I've done several times .

1) mark the overall length required + at least one full thread for good measure.

2) run a sacrificial but good lug nut (or any proper pitched free run nut ) down to the mark (to provide a good perpendicular surface you'll use as a guide for a nice straight cut)

3)using a thin 1/16" thick cutoff wheel with a 90° die grinder (or equivalent ) and using the previously installed nut as a guide Cut the stud off accordingly.

4) run the nut down to the hub for now , do not remove the nut yet . Now using 120 grit or so sand paper and a foam block , sand the end of the stud smooth and to a slightly rounded end taking care not to remove anymore thead material than required .

5) now apply some anti-sieize or grease on the end of the stud ( to keep from damaging the nut ) now remove the nut by hand if possible if not use a ratchet working it back & forth on the cutoff area until the threads are clean & straight enough to install and remove a good lug nut by hand . Clean all grease or anti-sieize thoroughly ! ! You DO NOT want any lubricant on studs or Lug nuts you plan to use for the install ! !

Done !

This is a simple and quick process just seems like a lot to type out .

Pointer on keeping the nut in place while cutting off = wrap a little electrical tape on the stud and run the nut up on it a little until it's in place on your mark.

If you jack up a stud and it requires replacement no worries this is a simple process as well , takes less than 2 minutes to replace one . Just ask here and I'll tell ya how I do it .

☆☆Important☆☆
My way stated above is not the only way , but it's worked for me just fine many times .

 

[R.L.K.]

@ AustinB , that's exactly what I'm trying to say , pictures go a long way !

 

[AustinB]

@ AustinB , that's exactly what I'm trying to say , pictures go a long way !

Good, I'm usually on point in the afternoons.. Don't even pay attention to my post before 1pm though.


IMO

 

[P.Lavers]

Nice thanks guys for all the great information, its always good to get multiple options from all of the members, Thanks guys. I will keep you updated with what I do.

 

[R.L.K.]

Definitely keep us updated and think about writing up a DIY with pictures, especially if you require trimming the OEM studs !

Lots of guys here with questions on installing wheel adapter / spacers !

 

[that white kid]

I have 35s on 20in rims with a 0 offset on a 3in lift and leveled and they didn't rub at all then I put 2in spacers all the way around and my tires rubbed like a mother ****** until i trimmed a lot and had to make brackets to pull the black fender wells back

 

[R.L.K.]

I have 35s on 20in rims with a 0 offset on a 3in lift and leveled and they didn't rub at all then I put 2in spacers all the way around and my tires rubbed like a mother ****** until i trimmed a lot and had to make brackets to pull the black fender wells back

Love your Forum name

Yep sometimes more is not necessarily better !

 

[that white kid]

thanks lol. And ya I took care of the rubbing and it looks damn good now. Nothing better than a fat truck. Im gonna put some 22in fuel renegades on it soon when i order my 6in lift so well see if I have any rubbing issues then

 

[Cyborg2337]

10mm is .394". Not 1/4".

 

[R.L.K.]

10mm is .394". Not 1/4".

.393701.
I stand corrected Sir !

I'll be editing my post .Brain fart I guess !