Wire Connections - Which Method Is Better?

[LabRatt]

I have read a lot of threads/posts about adding accessories to your truck that require wiring. The most often used phrase is "tap into the (X) wire." Well, me not being an amateur electrician gets confused on what method to use to "tap into" said wires. I understand not to gift wrap inter-twined wires together with layers and layers of electrical tape.

Which of the following methods do you recommend for interior? how about exterior? Also, which ones should you avoid altogether?

Solder + Heat Shrink
Crimp Connectors
Scotch-Locks (T-tap, quick splice)
3-Way Spade Connectors
Closed End Connectors
Others?

 

[Tach_tech]

FCA recommends to crimp,solder, and heat shrink for wiring repairs.

Personally a good crimp/heat shrink or solder and heat shrink is sufficient in my eyes.

I despise butt connectors and scotch locks. I’ve seen far to many of them cause issues in my time as an electrical tech. They’re also quite bulky and look terrible.

 

[Ramm5.7]

Well, that all depends on what and where you are splicing!
Tried n true safe and clean is solder n heatshrink, especially outside of cabin. I used scotchlocks to tap speaker wiring inside and EVERY wire i have spliced/connected under hood and front lights have been crimped, soldered and heatshrunk!

 

[wgreggking]

Solder + Heat Shrink PIA, but You will never regret it. Have done it a hundred times for rat damage in vehicles . Saves many hour's tracing and locating bad connections,
un-taping, looking for bad butt connections ect.

 

[John Jensen]

I parallel twist, solder and tape or heat shrink. I don't crimp, but there's nothing wrong with crimping. I've seen crimps that look good but are not good (loose). I guess that's why some say crimp & solder.

As others have said, stay away from scotch locks.

 

[PowrRam]

Intertwine, solder, heat sink.

 

[PowrRam]

Intertwine, solder, heat sink.

Um... Intertwine, solder, heat shrink tubing.

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[joshuaeb09]

For just joining two wires I like using those crimp/solder/adhesive heat shrink marine grade butt connector deals. Just crimp, then heat up until the solder ball in the middle flows through and the hard plastic shrinks to the wires. Solid connection, water proof, and provides some strain relief once the plastic re-hardens. If I'm actually taping something Ill either use an add a fuse, t-taps, or I'll solder and heat shrink depending on what it is I'm doing and where it is on the vehicle.

 

[JohnnyMac]

Been an Electronics Tech for 25+ years and I can't say I've ever seen a soldered wire fail except for maybe some serious salt water corrosion. That being said, if you're installing something that you might need to pull out every once in a while for bulb replacement, failure, maintenance or to keep it from being stolen (like a light bar, or CB radio or what have you) you might consider spade lugs that are soldered and heat shrank (shrinked?) onto their prospective wires (taps), however can still be disconnected when necessary at the lug without cutting. Seems that sometimes after multiple installations and removals using solder, the wires get shorter and shorter....

Apologize if I'm

 

[LabRatt]

If your wires came with factory butt connections or spade connectors, would you snip those off and still favor solder/heat shrink? I'm assuming yes for exterior applications, but would the same be for interior?

Also, is adding flux to your soldering really necessary?

 

[JohnnyMac]

If your wires came with factory butt connections or spade connectors, would you snip those off and still favor solder/heat shrink? I'm assuming yes for exterior applications, but would the same be for interior?

Also, is adding flux to your soldering really necessary?

If your install is going to be permanent, then yes, I'd snip and solder. As far as flux, you really only need it if your wire is old or has been exposed to weather or if you're having trouble getting your solder to flow well. You can get solder that has flux already in the core if you really want to. Generally, if the wire is new or if you just stripped the cover off and it's nice and clean, the solder will flow and adhere just fine without flux.

 

[Tach_tech]

If your wires came with factory butt connections or spade connectors, would you snip those off and still favor solder/heat shrink? I'm assuming yes for exterior applications, but would the same be for interior?

Also, is adding flux to your soldering really necessary?

I’ve never seen butt connectors on a vehicle from the factory. Any time I see butt connectors on a vehicle with an issue I’m always very suspicious of it being the source.

If it was my personal vehicle and I found butt connectors someone installed I would remove them.

Flux usually isn’t needed unless it’s the wiring is dirty/ old. Lots of solder comes with some sort of flux in it as well.

 

[LabRatt]

Thank you for all the replies and shared information. This really helps shape how I will complete a few installs.

 

[WilliamS]

Always try to solder and shrink this way its one less place for issues in the future. If its outside the truck always heat shrink and solder.

If you are no comfortable soldering they make some heatshirnk with solder in it, you slide the heatshrink/solder connector over 1 wire, intertwine/twist the wires together and pull the heatshrink/solder tube to the middle of your joint and heat. Its not the best, but its better than a connector of any sort.

 

[sbarron]

I'll actually go a step further on exterior wiring. I'll get the correct plugs and make pigtails to tap. That way there is NO injury to the OEM wiring. More expensive? More work? Yes to both, but pretty bombproof and it can always be removed with no harm done.
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[BEAST19]

They have solder tubes that you slide over the two wires connected together . Then you heat shrink them which melts the solder over the connection. Super simple and makes a quality snd strong. Connection! I bought 100 off eBay for about 10$


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[Tach_tech]

They have solder tubes that you slide over the two wires connected together . Then you heat shrink them which melts the solder over the connection. Super simple and makes a quality snd strong. Connection! I bought 100 off eBay for about 10$


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Only issue I see with those is it’s not the correct way to apply solder. The wire is supposed to be heated then the solder applied. With those it’s more likely you’re melting solder onto the wire which creates a poor solder joint.

I’ve never used them and maybe they work properly, just my thoughts.

 

[BEAST19]

Only issue I see with those is it’s not the correct way to apply solder. The wire is supposed to be heated then the solder applied. With those it’s more likely you’re melting solder onto the wire which creates a poor solder joint.

Yea could be an issue I supposed but I have built multiple set of custom lights and wired many of them to connectors or tapped into existing wires and have had zero issues with them 3 years later.


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[WilliamS]

These are what I was writing about earlier. These arent the "best" way, but 100x better than a splice or butt connector.

https://www.amazon.com/Sopoby-Conne...&qid=1542401547&sr=8-4&keywords=shrink+solder

 

[Allamer1719]

Environmental splices and molex connectors if necessary.