Wiring a light bar into fog lights.

[ClassicJoe]

Can a 126W lightbar be spliced into the fog lights without any issues. If it will work, I can avoid having to run a wire to the cab and drilling a hole to mount a switch. This way, I could just turn on the fogs when I want the light bar on.

 

[SitKneelBend]

Can a 126W lightbar be spliced into the fog lights without any issues. If it will work, I can avoid having to run a wire to the cab and drilling a hole to mount a switch. This way, I could just turn on the fogs when I want the light bar on.

You need to put a relay in the engine bay to do what you want to do. Essentially, you run power through the relay and use a tap on the fog light wiring to trigger the relay and energize your lightbar.

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

 

[Ktstull]

I did something similar and used the highbeam wire as my trigger wire on my relay so it turned on with my high beams, not my fogs, so I’m sure you could do the same thing with the fog wire. Definitely use a relay though!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Tristan Riker]

I did something similar and used the highbeam wire as my trigger wire on my relay so it turned on with my high beams, not my fogs, so I’m sure you could do the same thing with the fog wire. Definitely use a relay though!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey I have a 95 1500 and I'm thinking about doing the same, but I have some questions.
If I don't have the fog light assemblies anymorebut still have the it all from the wires back, would I need to add a relay if I just hook the light bar up to the wires or could I use the relay that is already there? I don't know how many watts the light bar has but it's probably no more then a 32".
I'm new to the electric side of autos so any info would be great yall

 

[RamDiver]

That shouldn't be too difficult, given the vintage of your truck. Anything newer and modules would be monitoring the current draw and potentially throw a fault if you're under or over on the current draw.

I would suggest you learn a few basics like Ohm's Law before and buy an inexpensive multimeter.
You will find endless uses for a multimeter on the truck and in a house or apartment.

Before you go into too much effort, locate the fog light fuse, confirm the fuse value is correct or smaller than specified and calculate how much available power you have to work with. Does this lightbar use less than the available power? That's easy to calculate after learning Ohm's Law.


After you get those items complete, inspect all of the fog light wiring and test the wiring with a multimeter, first for continuity and shorts, then power it up and test again to see that it can supply power.

You won't require a relay unless the required power for the lightbar exceeds that of the fog light circuit. Keep in mind that in the future, you likely won't be able to power foglights with this circuit unless you move the lightbar to a relay.

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[Tristan Riker]

That shouldn't be too difficult, given the vintage of your truck. Anything newer and modules would be monitoring the current draw and potentially throw a fault if you're under or over on the current draw.

I would suggest you learn a few basics like Ohm's Law before and buy an inexpensive multimeter.
You will find endless uses for a multimeter on the truck and in a house or apartment.

Before you go into too much effort, locate the fog light fuse, confirm the fuse value is correct or smaller than specified and calculate how much available power you have to work with. Does this lightbar use less than the available power? That's easy to calculate after learning Ohm's Law.


After you get those items complete, inspect all of the fog light wiring and test the wiring with a multimeter, first for continuity and shorts, then power it up and test again to see that it can supply power.

You won't require a relay unless the required power for the lightbar exceeds that of the fog light circuit. Keep in mind that in the future, you likely won't be able to power foglights with this circuit unless you move the lightbar to a relay.

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I will definitely do this, also follow up question. I just bought the truck, it has projector headlamps installed, when I'm driving or even just sitting with the lights on, they will flash on and off then cut off, I have to turn the lights off then on and its fine for a few miles. What would be a good place to start with checking for the issue? I don't know much about projector headlamps, I'm wanting to switch the bulbs to LED or the whole headlight assembly, I don't like the way they look personally

 

[RamDiver]

I will definitely do this, also follow up question. I just bought the truck, it has projector headlamps installed, when I'm driving or even just sitting with the lights on, they will flash on and off then cut off, I have to turn the lights off then on and its fine for a few miles. What would be a good place to start with checking for the issue? I don't know much about projector headlamps, I'm wanting to switch the bulbs to LED or the whole headlight assembly, I don't like the way they look personally

What colour do the headlights appear to be, anything like white or definitely on the amber side?
What you're describing sounds like someone may have attempted to upgrade to LED because that is a very common fault.

I'm not that familiar with that vintage of truck. When you look at the headlights, do they appear to be at full brightness or less than?

And, congrats on the new purchase.

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[Tristan Riker]

What colour do the headlights appear to be, anything like white or definitely on the amber side?
What you're describing sounds like someone may have attempted to upgrade to LED because that is a very common fault.

I'm not that familiar with that vintage of truck. When you look at the headlights, do they appear to be at full brightness or less than?

And, congrats on the new purchase.

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Thank you, I've missed being in a pickup so much. I'd say the lows are between white and yellow (more on the yellow side) and the highs are white but are dim. The highs illuminate more area but are so dim my low beams are brighter, I'm not sure if it's not getting enough power or what

 

[RamDiver]

Thank you, I've missed being in a pickup so much. I'd say the lows are between white and yellow (more on the yellow side) and the highs are white but are dim. The highs illuminate more area but are so dim my low beams are brighter, I'm not sure if it's not getting enough power or what

You're most welcome. It does sound like you have a power problem of some sort.

Do the lights behave the same (flicker & go off) while using the low or high beams?

With all power-related issues, I always start with the battery.

Is there any date on the battery?
What is the visual appearance of the battery posts and clamps, any dirt or corrosion?
Are the battery clamps snug?

Do you have any other electrical-related faults inside the cab, dim lights, or CELs?
Do you own or have access to a code reader?

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[Tristan Riker]

I am looking into getting a OBD1 reader because she's a 95, but I had some time to look over the headlamps and I believe I found my my issue.
As far as any other electrical issue I have not found any yet. I am going to be replacing the battery and terminal soon though just for maintenance

 

[RamDiver]

I am looking into getting a OBD1 reader because she's a 95, but I had some time to look over the headlamps and I believe I found my my issue.
As far as any other electrical issue I have not found any yet. I am going to be replacing the battery and terminal soon though just for maintenance

That wiring appears to have been cobbled together or modified, at the least. I have no idea what this black resin-sealed device is. After tweaking the picture, I see what appears to be Major, Minor, and I'm assuming Ground labels.

And in the first picture, it looks like a smaller red wire has been tapped off of the larger wire. Is this the 12 VDC wire for the high beam? The headlight connections should not be shared with other circuits or devices.

So, back to the flickering and then off on the headlights. Does this happen with only the high-beam lights or both low and high beams?

I'm also wondering why you have decided to change the battery and terminals. Is it definitely older and the terminals are messed up? Most auto parts stores will load test the battery for no cost or, the cost of a toaster-style battery load tester is about $20 if you prefer to own one.

I've had one of these load testers for decades just because I prefer the convenience of owning it.

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As part of a regular maintenance program, battery posts and clamps should be cleaned regularly or every 6-12 months and coated with a thin film of dielectric grease. These battery post/clamp cleaners are very inexpensive and extremely useful to own.

Battery Terminal Cleaner

Amazing deals on this Battery Terminal Cleaner at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Now on sale at Harbour Freight for $3, regularly $6.

.

 

[Tristan Riker]

That wiring appears to have been cobbled together or modified, at the least. I have no idea what this black resin-sealed device is. After tweaking the picture, I see what appears to be Major, Minor, and I'm assuming Ground labels.

And in the first picture, it looks like a smaller red wire has been tapped off of the larger wire. Is this the 12 VDC wire for the high beam? The headlight connections should not be shared with other circuits or devices.

So, back to the flickering and then off on the headlights. Does this happen with only the high-beam lights or both low and high beams?

I'm also wondering why you have decided to change the battery and terminals. Is it definitely older and the terminals are messed up? Most auto parts stores will load test the battery for no cost or, the cost of a toaster-style battery load tester is about $20 if you prefer to own one.

I've had one of these load testers for decades just because I prefer the convenience of owning it.

View attachment 539010

100 Amp, 6/12V Battery Load Tester

Amazing deals on this 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

As part of a regular maintenance program, battery posts and clamps should be cleaned regularly or every 6-12 months and coated with a thin film of dielectric grease. These battery post/clamp cleaners are very inexpensive and extremely useful to own.

View attachment 539011

Battery Terminal Cleaner

Amazing deals on this Battery Terminal Cleaner at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Now on sale at Harbour Freight for $3, regularly $6.

.

Sorry I should've gave more detail, the light in the picture is my right blinker, the little red and black wires are also running under the headlamp, I'm not sure where to exactly, I would assume the running lights, but my right front blinker does not come on, the back just turns on, it does not flash. I have already replaced the flasher relay and fuses, the front right blinker bulb will come on with running lights though.
The headlights flickering does happen with both high and low beams.

As far as the battery terminals, I'm wanting to replace them for maintenance and they look like they've seen better days

 

[RamDiver]

OK, so there are more than a few projects on this truck.

1 Battery age & condition unknown.
2 Battery terminals require replacement.
3 Headlights - (high & low) flickering and going off.
4 Headlights - high beams are not as bright as low beams.
5 Turn signal lights - RF not working but lights with running lights, RR stays on, no flashing.
6 Turn signal lights - LF/LR unknown.
7 Engine bay wiring for signal lights and/or headlights have been modified from OEM & require verification and to be cleaned up.
8 Verify and confirm the condition and connectivity of Fog light wiring. Confirm the foglight fuse is correct for the circuit and sufficient for the new light bar.

I have prioritized these items in the order that I would choose, you may have other ideas.

You may consider cleaning up all the wiring first because that may correct some of these problems.
And, if you decide to fix up the wiring first, you may also decide to perform #8 next, because it is another wiring task.

Regardless of the order you choose, it seems that adding the light bar is far down the list. A very important lesson I learned many years ago about electronic troubleshooting is to correct any deficiencies and/or failures before making any modifications or additions.

Not following this practice will more often than not, bite you in the ass.

.

 

[Tristan Riker]

OK, so there are more than a few projects on this truck.

1 Battery age & condition unknown.
2 Battery terminals require replacement.
3 Headlights - (high & low) flickering and going off.
4 Headlights - high beams are not as bright as low beams.
5 Turn signal lights - RF not working but lights with running lights, RR stays on, no flashing.
6 Turn signal lights - LF/LR unknown.
7 Engine bay wiring for signal lights and/or headlights have been modified from OEM & require verification and to be cleaned up.
8 Verify and confirm the condition and connectivity of Fog light wiring. Confirm the foglight fuse is correct for the circuit and sufficient for the new light bar.

I have prioritized these items in the order that I would choose, you may have other ideas.

You may consider cleaning up all the wiring first because that may correct some of these problems.
And, if you decide to fix up the wiring first, you may also decide to perform #8 next, because it is another wiring task.

Regardless of the order you choose, it seems that adding the light bar is far down the list. A very important lesson I learned many years ago about electronic troubleshooting is to correct any deficiencies and/or failures before making any modifications or additions.

Not following this practice will more often than not, bite you in the ass.

.

Yes that is true, I want to get this truck running great before I add any electrical components or anything.
Left blinker does work in front and rear, I replaced the flasher relay and fuses
I removed the fog lamp wiring because there no fog lamps when I purchased the truck and I thought it might be drawing power still

 

[RamDiver]

Yes that is true, I want to get this truck running great before I add any electrical components or anything.
Left blinker does work in front and rear, I replaced the flasher relay and fuses
I removed the fog lamp wiring because there no fog lamps when I purchased the truck and I thought it might be drawing power still

I would suggest that you begin with restoration of the original headlight and signal light wiring.

A service manual would be a good place to start to sort out where the wiring has been modified and how you can restore it to the original OEM state.

I've only looked at this with my phone but it looks OK. I'll check it with my PC tomorrow.

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