Yet Another BT Lowering Question/Issue

[RobHinton]

Truck is a 2013 Reg Cab ... I added the BT Street Performer set up with a rear sway bar about 3k miles ago. I knew going in I would lose some ride quality, but it went from being a boat to a brick. When I go over RR tracks it "feels like Im getting punched in the kidneys" as she would say.

Well Im going back in to have 1/3 a turn cut from the front coil (clean up a little gap & add a little rake back) and was wondering if you all think there is any benefit to adding the stock shocks back over the sp?

I know some stayed with and some went w the SP ... anyone had both on the same truck with the lowering springs that can speak about the difference?

Thanks everyone!

 

[The Q]

I've run both the BellTech Street Performer shocks and factory shocks on the front and will tell you in my opinion the stock shocks ride better. What really helped the front end on the lowered truck was going with the shorter F-150 front sway bar links. This change took just about all the harshness out of the front end when hitting bumps and road imperfections. You can get the shorter end links at your local parts store or amazon for about $33 each. They are Moog K80337. Some have run no name end links off eBay, buy when it comes to my safety I'll spend a little more.

 

[Mr.Smith]

I've run both the BellTech Street Performer shocks and factory shocks on the front and will tell you in my opinion the stock shocks ride better. What really helped the front end on the lowered truck was going with the shorter F-150 front sway bar links. This change took just about all the harshness out of the front end when hitting bumps and road imperfections. You can get the shorter end links at your local parts store or amazon for about $33 each. They are Moog K80337. Some have run no name end links off eBay, buy when it comes to my safety I'll spend a little more.

I have the Hellwig sways. Do the moog endlinks make that big of a difference. I have them just haven't installed them

 

[RobHinton]

Thanks Q ... and to add to the above question does the Moog endlinks in the back help out too? Most of my complaint really is how the back takes when rough patches are hit. Thnks

 

[sicmadek]

Did you cut off the bumpstop cups in the front?

 

[RobHinton]

I have not cut anything at this point. Why do you ask?

 

[sicmadek]

You have to cut those off when you install the kit. If not you will hit them everytime you go over a bump

 

[RobHinton]

Now the kit came w new im guessing shortened bumpstops and they were installed. I didnt cut those. Im sorry, I should have been more clear in my first reply.

 

[cjacks519]

I have not cut anything at this point. Why do you ask?

Now the kit came w new im guessing shortened bumpstops and they were installed. I didnt cut those. Im sorry, I should have been more clear in my first reply.

You have to cut the front factory bump stop cups off of the frame with either a sawzall, grinder, or something similar before installing the new bumpstops from the belltech kit. If u didn't complete this step I'm sure this is at least part of the problem

 

[The Q]

I have the Hellwig sways. Do the moog endlinks make that big of a difference. I have them just haven't installed them

I think getting the front sway bar back to a more parallel angle to the road really helps. With the factory links the front sway bar is no where near parallel to the ground as it should be. The Moog links don't get it perfect, but they get it much closer than the factory links. The links area easy to change. I found it necessary to use both the factory bushing cups and the Moog bushing cups to get the right amount of compression on the sway bar bushings.



Your front bump stops should look like this! You have to cut the factory bump stop cups off, then install the BellTech bump stops.

 

[Copperhead7310]

Dayum Q, that truck is awesome. I love the way it sits. Clleeeannn ..

I just wanted to mention about cutting springs. I know people do it all the time, and I have a 68 C10 truck with a 434ci BBC, it has cut springs in it. Small block springs, cut so I could support the weight of the big block.

any who ..

Think of the coil spring as a lever. Its just a metal bar, coiled up to give it tension. The way it was explained to me many moons ago is a diving board. Lets say you have a 10' long diving board. .. 250lb dude bounces on the end and goes into the water.

Now, cut 2' off the board. Same dude, bounce .. what does the board do?

It wouldnt flex as much (not as much 'boing') before he goes into the water. It would feel stiffer. The same concept applies with coil springs.

Putting the springs side by side lets say one is 18" long, and you want to cut one turn out of it. It may seem that one turn will give you 2" due to the fact it's 2" shorter.. not so much. You also lose the tension that extra turn had, plus the height difference.. then the bar becomes shorter. The spring will become stiffer.

Not assuming you guys dont know this.. just saying I had to learn the hard way. I saw the post about the truck being stiff then the mention of cutting the springs.. while it wouldnt be much it would add stiffness. Hope this helps.

Chad

 

[RobHinton]

Thanks for all the info and opinions. I really appreciate how helpful everyone around here is ... especially for someone like me who lacks mechanical knowledge.

 

[ghost2.2]

Bumpstop cups off for sure