5.7 Swap into D150 Completed

Yoox_II · Dec 8, 2016

dev199505 said:
You think it's worth it?

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So far I do yes, but you'd have to make sure the rest of the truck is worth spending the money on. I wouldn't have swapped a hemi into an old rust bucket. I have peace of mind that I can start it, let it idle and it simply will not stall (I live in Canada and Temps are starting to drop below freezing). Also, the available power and throttle response are better in my opinion than you could ever get with a carb'd 318 or 360. The amount of available accessories and upgrades for the eagle hemi are endless.... the list goes on. One thing I am slightly kicking myself for, is sticking with the 727 transmission. It's durable and a great trans, but if I'm going 80km/h for example and want to pass a vehicle on the highway, it cannot shift down to zip around the vehicle since it only has 3 gears to choose from. If it shifted down at that speed, it would be screaming, whereas if I had a 5 speed rfe545, it would shift down without hesitation and in turn I would have a lot more available power and gear manipulation at highway speeds. All in all, I am 85% satisfied with my decision to spend the money.

crazzywolfie · Dec 8, 2016

$6k seems pretty cheap for the swap. most aftermarket fuel injection setups for old vehicles usually cost about $2000.

you just have to drive a bit smarter with the 727. you should have no problem passing someone doing 80km/h. i do it with my 93. ya you may end up running between 4-5000 rpm but that is normal and fine

Yoox_II · Dec 8, 2016

crazzywolfie said:
$6k seems pretty cheap for the swap. most aftermarket fuel injection setups for old vehicles usually cost about $2000.

you just have to drive a bit smarter with the 727. you should have no problem passing someone doing 80km/h. i do it with my 93. ya you may end up running between 4-5000 rpm but that is normal and fine

I know the engine can handle it, but I guess subconsciously I am paranoid about something letting go on the transmission or driveshaft/rear end when I'm giving it full or almost full throttle

crazzywolfie · Dec 8, 2016

you know they use the same rear ends in the new trucks right? only difference is that they have changed the brakes. i think the driveshaft would likely be fine. the only thing that might be questionable is the transmission but the 727 is a pretty tough transmission.

Yoox_II · Dec 12, 2016

I'm having an issue with my heater. It's dropping to -10 degrees celsius at night nowadays, and now I'm noticing my heater intermittently doesn't blow warm air. After driving for approximately 20 minutes on the highway, the air was still stone cold. Then suddenly, the air went warm. I've tried restarting the engine in case it was a glitch in the computer, but it seems to have a schedule of its own when it decides to work and not work. My entire coolant system checked out, no leaks and proper flow. What else can I check for? The air flow through the vents is quite strong so it's not clogged or anything

crazzywolfie · Dec 12, 2016

does the heat control lever on your heater controls work and is it set to warm? just going after the obvious first. do the heater hoses feel like they are getting warm after the engine has been running for a while?

RonJon '06 · Dec 12, 2016

Might just have some air still in the system from the swap.

Rustycowl69 · Dec 12, 2016

Yoox_II said:
I'm having an issue with my heater. It's dropping to -10 degrees celsius at night nowadays, and now I'm noticing my heater intermittently doesn't blow warm air. After driving for approximately 20 minutes on the highway, the air was still stone cold. Then suddenly, the air went warm. I've tried restarting the engine in case it was a glitch in the computer, but it seems to have a schedule of its own when it decides to work and not work. My entire coolant system checked out, no leaks and proper flow. What else can I check for? The air flow through the vents is quite strong so it's not clogged or anything

it sounds to me like there is still an air bubble in the cooling system that needs to be burped out

Yoox_II · Dec 13, 2016

How would I go about getting rid of that bubble? Remove the cap and run the engine cautiously (so the coolant doesn't overflow)?

crazzywolfie · Dec 13, 2016

you may want to feel the heater hoses. if there is air in the system you will most likely feel it. there is also the possibility that your heater core is clogged.

RonJon '06 · Dec 13, 2016

Yoox_II said:
How would I go about getting rid of that bubble? Remove the cap and run the engine cautiously (so the coolant doesn't overflow)?

You can try that, some people park it on an incline to try and get the radiator at the highest point. I always squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses after refilling as well. I don't know about your engine but on the third Gens there's a bleeder screw on the water pump that's supposed to be open when you initially add coolant (I've never used it). If you end up replacing the thermostat some have drilled out the piddle valve to 1/8" to help the air escape.

crazzywolfie · Dec 13, 2016

since he is running a stock style rad is should almost bleed the system itself after a couple run cycles as long as the overflow tank is hooked up and fluid in the tank for the engine to suck up.

Yoox_II · Dec 13, 2016

The plug on the temperature sensor wasn't fully pushed on, but I've since experienced the problem so that wasn't the cause. Also, occasionally, my engine runs on 6(i think) cylinders. To fix it, I shut the truck off and back on and it solves it. Definitely starting to sound like computer related issues. The misfiring issue has only happened three times since I started driving it about one month ago, and it's my daily driver

crazzywolfie · Dec 13, 2016

the computer shouldn't effect the heater output. i would still say feel the heater hoses. they tell you a lot

as far as the computer goes you are best to contact whoever programmed it and see what they say.

Yoox_II · Dec 15, 2016

crazzywolfie said:
the computer shouldn't effect the heater output. i would still say feel the heater hoses. they tell you a lot

as far as the computer goes you are best to contact whoever programmed it and see what they say.

I checked the heater hoses, they're bairly warm after driving for Half an hour. Coolant level is fine. So temp sensor should be my next replacement to see if that's causing it?

crazzywolfie · Dec 15, 2016

if they are barely warm and your coolant level is fine there is a possibility that your hear core is clogged or water is not being pumped through them but if it is the stock heater core it might be time to replace it. you can try taking the hoses off and blowing through it. should be able to blow through it pretty freely. you can try rinsing it out but if it is clogged you might be better off to replace it.

Rustycowl69 · Dec 15, 2016

crazzywolfie said:
if they are barely warm and your coolant level is fine there is a possibility that your hear core is clogged or water is not being pumped through them but if it is the stock heater core it might be time to replace it. you can try taking the hoses off and blowing through it. should be able to blow through it pretty freely. you can try rinsing it out but if it is clogged you might be better off to replace it.

I agree with Wolfie. You can bypass the heater core, temporarily. I'd try a piece of soft copper pipe, and connect the in and out heater hoses, on the engine side of the heater control valve. Then see if the hoses are getting hot. If they are still barely warm, I'd look to the thermostat, and then the water pump.
On my LHS, a brand new Mopar water pump impeller became loose on the shaft, and so it wouldn't pump.

RonJon '06 · Dec 16, 2016

I don't know if it would make a difference or not but it's possible the outflow and return lines to the heater core got mixed up. Might be worth checking.

crazzywolfie · Dec 16, 2016

that shouldn't make a difference as long as the heater core is not clogged.

Yoox_II · Dec 17, 2016

The heat occasionally kicks in, sometimes for a minute and sometimes for 5 minutes, but then goes away again, while I'm driving. This intermittent behavior sort of rules out a water pump doesn't it?

I removed the thermostat plug and tapped the thermostat itself with a screwdriver handle to see if it's stuck but still no change. Both heater hoses are not clogged also.

5.7 Swap into D150 Completed

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