Light bar Installation help

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PCT

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I have been looking at http://www.ramforum.com/f41/my_lightbar-72869/ for a bit now and they look awesome!

I would like to wire some light bars in my truck the thing is, how do you wire them, is it easy, and are they legal.

I would like to put 1 or 2 behind the grill and maybe pods in the SLT outdoorsmen bumper where the fog lights are supposed to go
 

sbarron

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here are my build threads for doing exactly that:
Light Bars: http://www.ramforum.com/f41/led_light_bar_pods_install_behind_grill_bumper-63186/
Other Wiring, etc: http://www.ramforum.com/f41/bed_lig..._mount_reverse_light_install_pic_heavy-66687/

I only include the second build thread because it shows my final wiring for fuse boxes, relays, etc...

As for them being legal, that's up to your state laws. Here in Alaska, they are legal, however, if you were running them like an *******, I'm sure it wouldn't take much creativity on law enforcements part to come up with some kind of ticket.
 

Rzrman328

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It would take a lot to explain exactly how to do it in this text box. I would YouTube some videos...there's a lot.

Easy? I think it was a relatively easy process...more time consuming if anything. Big part is figuring out where you want to mount and run your wiring...again, endless options.

They are not street legal. ESPECIALLY where you reside.

Edit: what Sbarron said too.
 
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PCT

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Wow, Sbarron... beautiful job. the most wiring i have ever done was Sub/amp/HU. And a high idle switch on my 6.0..

Is there a way to tie in the bed lights into the cargo light button? Also is there a way todo this with out AUX switches, i would prefer to keep the inside as stock as possible and tie into the factory light switch.
 

sbarron

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with relays triggered by the high beams, you could leave out the switches. The only downside is that you would ALWAYS have your light bar(s) on when the high beams were on. If you have factory fogs, you could tie into that circuit as a trigger (like i did for the low-power side of the driving lights) which would solve that problem.

and yes, tying the bed lights (and reverse and puddle lights) into the cargo light is exactly what i did, that way i can turn them on from either the cargo light switch or the key fob. I used a relay as the computer will notice the voltage difference of the added LED's, (but not the much lower voltage to close the relay), and start throwing errors.
 

SilverStreak88

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PCT;11173343e Is there a way to tie in the bed lights into the cargo light button?[/QUOTE said:
Ground the bed lights to the bed and for the positive run a single wire into the cab and up the the dash switch. Use a test light to find which wire gives you on and off power by toggling the switch and put a wire splice on it.
 

sbarron

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Ground the bed lights to the bed and for the positive run a single wire into the cab and up the the dash switch. Use a test light to find which wire gives you on and off power by toggling the switch and put a wire splice on it.

won't work on a 2013 with the CANBUS system, you'll still need a relay.
 

SilverStreak88

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won't work on a 2013 with the CANBUS system, you'll still need a relay.

Ah, I figured that the 4th gens had some stupid electronic crappie that would prevent an easy installation. Thanks for clarification...
 

BlownGP

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won't work on a 2013 with the CANBUS system, you'll still need a relay.

He could wire it to the green wire that runs down behind the headlight swtich that powers the interior lights.
 
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Sbarron I was looking at your switches, I could deal with that, I do not have factory fog lights will that throw a kink in everything?
 

sbarron

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my switches run the amber and clear light bars behind my grill. The pods I have in the fog light openings are triggered by either the OEM fog light circuit (low power D2's), high beam circuit (high power D2's), or the high beam circuit PLUS the dash switch (D2 hyper spots). If you don't have OEM fogs, or openings, you could just wire your light bars to either come on with just a switch throw, or have them come on with both the switch and high beams engaged, (or any combination if you used a DPDT switch).
 
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