TYC Projectors & Retro Shop 13+ Adaptor

BlackRamHemi · Dec 20, 2014

That's the downfall with cramming the canbus/ballast/igniter into the housing,
sometimes all that Tetris work limits the range of motion within the lamp for adjustments.

I actually popped the adjuster ball right off the socket when I tried to force the aim up on my first set.

After I pulled the lamp, pulled out the canbus and ballast, popped the adjuster back on.
I left everything outside the lamp and had full range adjustable again.

BTW...

Talon_66 · Dec 20, 2014

Hmmm guess I will have to try that tomorrow.
I think I need 3-4 more full rotations. I rather it be too high, than too low once its all back together

1500ram12 · Dec 21, 2014

If I remember right in a thread on headlights jj stated at 25' you should be 2' high I think

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iam_canadian22 · Dec 21, 2014

1500ram12 said:
If I remember right in a thread on headlights jj stated at 25' you should be 2' high I think

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20-25' you should be same height as centerline of the headlights on passenger side with the drivers side cutoff being a couple inches lower

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BlackRamHemi · Dec 21, 2014

Pull up to a wall (within a couple feet) mark top of beam cutoff with masking tape on wall.

Back truck up 25 feet (flat level ground) from wall.

Top of cut off on both sides should match and should be about 1"-2" below tape.

............_____.......______
....____/......_____/

That ensures the beam is pointing slightly downward and not up.

While driving around, I find my cut off falls to the top of a trunk lid on vehicles in front of me
(my truck is lowered) and the light stays out most vehicles side view mirrors.

There is no horizontal adjustment, but if you DIY'd your own retro
the distance between the lens on the truck should be the same distance at the steps on the wall 25' away

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysryIgg4blw

I use my door sill at the back of my house as my guide its about 34"-35" high
My truck is parked 40' away and measures about 37" ground to lens center.

too high

just right

The cut off is so clean I could probably put a level on the fence line to make sure its pointing slightly downward

0212353 · Dec 21, 2014

Talon_66 - shouldn't ever have a crossing effect on these. They are mounted in with the laser cut plates, and assuming that everything is flush against those.....should be good to go. I have noticed a LOT of play with these headlights in the fenders too.....might just need to play a bit with how they are seated in the fender as well.

Talon_66 · Dec 21, 2014

0212353 said:
Talon_66 - shouldn't ever have a crossing effect on these. They are mounted in with the laser cut plates, and assuming that everything is flush against those.....should be good to go. I have noticed a LOT of play with these headlights in the fenders too.....might just need to play a bit with how they are seated in the fender as well.

Theyre definitely having a crossing effect.
I got the driver side vertical fixed by pulling everything out and turning the adjustment screw.

I am debating on pulling these bad boys apart again and making sure everything is good. I did notice today that somehow one of my wife's hairs made its way inside the housing and is on the lens. That alone drives me nuts.

0212353 · Dec 22, 2014

and that alone is why my wife is not allowed to be near my work area.......

Heywood · Dec 22, 2014

Talon_66 said:
Theyre definitely having a crossing effect.
I got the driver side vertical fixed by pulling everything out and turning the adjustment screw.

I am debating on pulling these bad boys apart again and making sure everything is good. I did notice today that somehow one of my wife's hairs made its way inside the housing and is on the lens. That alone drives me nuts.

Too funny Carlos......Lmao.

Just like Blackie said.

Pull up to the wall. I used painters frog tape. Get as close as you can and mark the center of the light hitting the wall.

Mark it with a sharpie and frog tape. Then measure 2" down and frog tape about 2 feet to the outsides of the center.

Back up 25 feet and put the lower part of the cutoff on the top of the frog tape.

I know it's hard finding a good dark place to do it right. Best place I found on the south side, for me, was the Edmonton Journal Building. 48 street and 92 ave. There's no grade and you can pull right close to the large loading door.

You might be able to take the cross out with a couple of washers?

I used door #3 when I installed and aimed the JW Speakers into my wife's JK.

Talon_66 · Dec 24, 2014

Heywood said:
Too funny Carlos......Lmao.

Just like Blackie said.

Pull up to the wall. I used painters frog tape. Get as close as you can and mark the center of the light hitting the wall.

Mark it with a sharpie and frog tape. Then measure 2" down and frog tape about 2 feet to the outsides of the center.

Back up 25 feet and put the lower part of the cutoff on the top of the frog tape.

I know it's hard finding a good dark place to do it right. Best place I found on the south side, for me, was the Edmonton Journal Building. 48 street and 92 ave. There's no grade and you can pull right close to the large loading door.

You might be able to take the cross out with a couple of washers?

I used door #3 when I installed and aimed the JW Speakers into my wife's JK.

I am definitely going to take my headlights apart, and use flush mount bolts/screws.
A local builder suggested mounting the headlights (before installing the lense on the truck) to verify the horizontal alignment.
I am also going to wet sand down the tint on the turn signals as I went way too dark.

I also got to drive tonight for the first time in pitch black on the highway. Vertical height seems to be perfect. But the beams cross at about 100-120ft which is ****** annoying.

Sir John · Dec 25, 2014

Talon_66 said:
Also at around 100 ft my headlights cross

Actually, My HID lights come together (I think they cross, but it's hard to tell) at about a 100-130 feet. It's my passenger side light that does it. It's been like that since the day I got them from JJ (about 2-3 months). When I look at the HID light bulb, i can clearly see that the bulb is not straight on its own mount....it cockeyed. I never bothered to complain to JJ about about. I didn't feel like going through the hassle of sending it back and waiting for it to get back to me, in the meantime, I'm driving around with one headlight.

So, i say all that to say this, check your HID light bulbs and make sure they aren't cockeyed. I'm not talking about how you have them installed, I'm talking about the bulb themselves.

Talon_66 · Dec 25, 2014

Bulb is fine in both, triple checked that. The D2S can only mount into the FX-R one way

Sir John · Dec 25, 2014

Talon_66 said:
Bulb is fine in both, triple checked that. The D2S can only mount into the FX-R one way

Just to be clear again, I'm not talking about how you have them installed. I'm talking about the bulb itself. I have a defect and it was made cockeyed at the factory and it causes my passenger side light to aim more towards the center then it should. But, you said you triple checked them, so I'm sure you would had noticed what I'm talking about by now.

Talon_66 · Dec 25, 2014

Sir John said:
Just to be clear again, I'm not talking about how you have them installed. I'm talking about the bulb itself. I have a defect and it was made cockeyed at the factory and it causes my passenger side light to aim more towards the center then it should. But, you said you triple checked them, so I'm sure you would had noticed what I'm talking about by now.

checked that also, their straight.

I have a few reasons to pull my headlights apart so, I will try mounting them again as Jeremy suggested with different hardware.

Indaram · Dec 26, 2014

Hey guys, I got my TYC projectors installed with the harness adapter as mine came with the quad lights. I also installed a set of HIDs from JJ. I have the same exact issue with the beams being crossed. You end up with a strange look going down the road.. Also my cutoff is not perfectly straight.. I got them vertically adjusted so the cutoff hits the top of most cars trunks that are in front of me. Now if you are in a lowered car... Get some sunglasses lol

I will try and get some pictures up as soon as I can.

Talon_66 · Dec 29, 2014

Jeremy your tip on the flush mount screws is awesome. I have both projectors mounted and I can already tell that it fits better

Talon_66 · Dec 30, 2014

Well I got the headlights sealed today and remounted.
Went out to aim the headlights and they still ******* cross :flame:

Spent some time physically shifting the headlights, but that didnt help much.

Im beyond frustrated at this point. Short of ripping the headlights apart for a 3rd time and installing washers, Im completely lost as to a simpler option.

Edit: From what I am reading online projectors should cross at a certain distance.

1500ram12 · Dec 31, 2014

I think my oem ones cross or come close to crossing

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Indaram · Dec 31, 2014

Talon_66 said:
Well I got the headlights sealed today and remounted.
Went out to aim the headlights and they still ******* cross
Spent some time physically shifting the headlights, but that didnt help much.

Im beyond frustrated at this point. Short of ripping the headlights apart for a 3rd time and installing washers, Im completely lost as to a simpler option.

Edit: From what I am reading online projectors should cross at a certain distance.

My TYC projectors cross as well.. about a foot into each other but its waaaayyy down the road and not very noticeable.

PassivAggressor · Dec 31, 2014

Indaram said:
My TYC projectors cross as well.. about a foot into each other but its waaaayyy down the road and not very noticeable.

Same here.

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