Newbie from NYC. Modifying my intake and exhaust in hopes of gaining 100+whp :D

[Redtruck-VA]

I believe if you drill and tap the heads exhaust you will find that the manifolds can be interchangeable. I saw where a aftermarket head stated they made their heads interchangeable by doing this and added that by using the dual pattern would help in supporting the extra weight of turbo's if mounted. (this would be using a aftermarket flange) I'll see if I can find the website. Good luck...

Edit: http://www.shophemi.com/p-2554-thitek-g3h-bear-hemi-heads.aspx

 

[Maximumrisk]

quick update. I was not able to find a company that sells Hemi exhaust flanges in mild steel and went with a set of ½ inch $tainless, but to keep cost, relatively, down I am going to build "log" style turbo headers. It really sucks that I was not able to flip the OEM manifolds because of the added cost of having to make a custom set, but of well I am already committed to the project. The log header, though not as efficient as a collector style header (negligible difference at the power level I will run) , is cheaper, simpler, takes less room, but still will make enough power to break something, LOL!!!!!...Anywyas, I'll keep you updated

 

[Maximumrisk]

I believe if you drill and tap the heads exhaust you will find that the manifolds can be interchangeable. I saw where a aftermarket head stated they made their heads interchangeable by doing this and added that by using the dual pattern would help in supporting the extra weight of turbo's if mounted. (this would be using a aftermarket flange) I'll see if I can find the website. Good luck...

Edit: THITEK G3H BEAR HEMI HEADS - shopHEMI.com

thanks for sharing this. I did not know that drilling and taping the head was an option. I have already ordered flanges to make a custom exhaust manifold set, but will keep this option in mind for future reference. Thanks once again!

 

[HemiLonestar]

Sorry i had not updated the thread. I have not been able to do anything turbo related as of yet, but i am starting today. The reason i had not done anything was that i came a across a SRT10 rear end decided to install that first.
I am hoping to at least get the exahust manifolds installed today. Wish me luck

Looks good lol

 

[Maximumrisk]

Looks good lol

Yes, yes indeed!! LOL. The diference in brake size is big, especially the calipers!
Talking about brakes, for my front ones I decided to contact Michigan Metal Works and have them build me a pair of custom spindles. Everything will be the same as stock except that they will accommodate the Grand Cherokee SRT8 Brembos with the RAm SRT10 rotors.
I tried to modify the stock ones to make the calipers fit and I got very close to making them fit, but I was removing to much "meat" from the aluminum, oem spindles and I would not have felt very comfortable driving the truck like that.
The custom spindles, I was told, will take about 6-8 weeks to build. Hopefully the turbo stuff will be way on its way by then

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Keep in mind running the SRT size brakes limits the size rims you can use. Don't know what the goal is of the truck, but as you already know every part modified seems to affect two other parts. Good luck...

 

[Maximumrisk]

Keep in mind running the SRT size brakes limits the size rims you can use. Don't know what the goal is of the truck, but as you already know every part modified seems to affect two other parts. Good luck...

I am running 22" SRT-10 wheels. The goal for the truck, for now, it just to have a fun street truck.
Oh and trust me, I am well aware of how quickly some of these "it-will-be-something-simple" projects can snow ball..LOL!

Here is a pic of the truck

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Looks good..

 

[ST-8]

Good looking mango

 

[HemiLonestar]

Keep in mind running the SRT size brakes limits the size rims you can use. Don't know what the goal is of the truck, but as you already know every part modified seems to affect two other parts. Good luck...

Yup. MINIMUM factory spec 20's.

I am running 22" SRT-10 wheels. The goal for the truck, for now, it just to have a fun street truck.
Oh and trust me, I am well aware of how quickly some of these "it-will-be-something-simple" projects can snow ball..LOL!

Here is a pic of the truck

Looks good

 

[Maximumrisk]

As my luck with this project would have it....
I ordered a pair of flanges, started working on the tubes for the passenger side. Once i had all the tubes cut to lenght, i wanted to start with the driver side only to find out that they had sent me 2 passenger side flanges!!....i cut the tubes anyways using the flange backwards and will wait until next week when they will send me the right flange.
So i said, ok. Let me just get the pasenger side Tig'ed and start mocking up the pipes/turbo on that side while i wait for the flange. I call the guy that tig welds for me and he tells me that he is out of stainless rod! And wont have more until Wednesday.....i tell you, you cannot make this up..LOL so anyways here is a little sneak pic into the lug manifold

 

[Maximumrisk]

Ok, little update. I finally got the flanges and the tubes welded. Today i started to work on the turbo support bar (turbos wont be hanging of the headers) which allows me to mock up the turbo location. I kind of like where they sit in the pics but nothing is set in stone yet. It looks like i will only have to move the heater hoses on the passenger side and relocate the wiring harness on the driver side. I will finish the brace tomorrow and maybe start the header-to-turbo pipes. Anyways, here are a couple of pics

 

[Maximumrisk]

Ok, today i added two support legs to the brace/turbo support for extra stiffness. Installed the headers and they fit good. I am going to have to make a custom power steering fluid reservoir as the oem one is not going to fit. I may also get a custom coolant overflow tank. I moved and cut the heater hoses to run over the valve covers to make more room for the downpipes. I think i will be able to keep the a/c lines where they sit, it would be great if i can. I will find out for sure when the 3inch bends get here hopefully before next weekend.
I was also able to tack together the turbo "up-pipe" on the driver side. It got dark so i could not do the passenger side, but it should be much easier as there is tons of room on that side. Anyways, tune in next week
PS do not make fun of my weld as my welders tip got a little damaged (because i dropped it, did nt have a replacement ) and the wire was not flowing smoothly. Dont judge me! LOL......carry on

 

[Maximumrisk]

I started the passenger side up-pipe. It went well. I was somewhat upset that i did not received the mandrel bends i had ordered so i was not able to plumb the wastegate. I was, however, able to tack together 75% of the downpipe on the driver side using some leftover bends i had laying around. Since i do not have more bends to continue, tomorrow i will work on the oil feef and return lines on the passenger side OR work on relocating the battery to the bed. I will keep you updated.


Downpipe



Another angle

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Look'n good....

 

[swh822]

Awesome truck...my favorite color..

 

[Maximumrisk]

Today, i relocated the battery to the trunk (no pics), wired it and all went well. I also fabricated some brackets so that i could tilt the fuse box, 90degrees counterclockwise to make more room. I still need to make a small bracket to support for the ABS unit. I hope to get the bends this upcoming week so that i can finish the driver side downpipe and plumb both wastegates. After that the oil feed and return lines, then on to the fuel stuff. Thats when i will have some more questions

Ps, i found a little metal disc connected to the wiring harnes under the battery, anyone knows what that is? Thanks in advance.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Show us what you did with the battery.
I'm going to start a thread soon named Hope to gain 100whp using a longer belt.

 

[Maximumrisk]

Show us what you did with the battery.
I'm going to start a thread soon named Hope to gain 100whp using a longer belt.

I did not take any pictures of the battery in the back as i do not have a box yet. So right now it isjust the battery sitting on the driver side/front of the bed. As for wiring, It was just bringing a 2gauge (positive) wire to the fuse block and a 0 gauge wire to the front chassis where it met it the original chassis/engine ground.
I will add a 200amp fuse to the positive wire near the battery for safety.

P.s. you do not need 0 gauge for ground, it is just that it was what i had. I will try to take some pics.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

You are getting a lot done. good job..