Synthetic Oil

[R.L.K.]

Sounds like a solid plan to me Sir !

If your planning on sending in an oil sample to see where your Hemi is at ( wear metals wise ) you may want to wait till 25+ k ; however, I'm a fan of knowing sooner than later , then just watch the trends go Down ( hopefully )

Just know wear metals are high on the 5.7L initially as with most new engines .

Imo the best thing is to keep reading HERE , as there's lots of knowledge here .
Ask Questions HERE often .

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[Burla]

I think the redline is easier to get at this point at least on amazon

Redline isn't the best as far as wear goes in the hemi, but I wont use anything else. My engine is too smooth to even chance it from the hemi tick that used to torment me. Too many cam failures, too many lifter problems in the forum, I will ride and die with the high moly stuff.

 

[R.L.K.]

Redline isn't the best as far as wear goes in the hemi, but I wont use anything else. My engine is too smooth to even chance it from the hemi tick that used to torment me. Too many cam failures, too many lifter problems in the forum, I will ride and die with the high moly stuff.

Before I agree Redline isn't the best as far as wear goes I'm gonna need to see longterm uoa's of Redline & others. Such as PUP & Mobile one .

Let's not forget per BITOG Redline oil Attracts ferous metals which skew the ppm's of wear metals in uoa's .

One could argue with other oils not attracting ferous metals are leaving those harmful scouring metals in the undrained oil left behind to continue to cause damage internally and without a high Moly content to fill microscopic wear to further reduce friction and added wear .

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[Burla]

Yeah, there is wear numbers we see in uoa's and then there is the real gauge engine tear downs. I think most synthetics will perform admirably in a long term engine tear down, Redline as part of the group for sure.

That is if your engine lives long enough to see a tear down, with all of these cam lob issues, the right oil might make more of a difference then ever before, no joke.

 

[grizzstang]

Run the PUP for 3k then dump it .

Only because your still breaking in and you'll have elevated wear metals regardless of what oil you pour in .

PUP is fantastic oil ....even in the 20wt .

If your having no ticking or LOUD sounding Hemi in general stick with the PUP , I never recommend the 20 wt in anything so take this for what it's worth ------> 20 wt keeps your warm & fuzzy , 30 wt ANYTHING is probably better .

30 wt will never void your warranty because it's allowed as a backup oil (per your owners manual )

I prefer Redline for the high Moly content , but as previously stated PUP in any wt is a fantastic oil Sir .

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I don't love 5W-20 either but my 2017 owners manual does not have a note that 5W-30 can be used in the 5.7. It does for the 3.6. I have seen other members complain the 5W-30 screws with the MDS so since I am under warranty and don't have it "tuned" off I wonder if it is wise to try the 5W-30. I do run it in our 2013 Jeep Wrangler with the 3.6. Thoughts?

 

[Burla]

All we say around here is do a little research and if you choose 5w20 nobody is going to question that.

 

[SportyJames]

5/20 Report

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[HammerHead]

5/20 Report

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Thank you for posting that. I'm getting ready to run Schaffers 5w30; look at that high Molly

 

[HammerHead]

I don't love 5W-20 either but my 2017 owners manual does not have a note that 5W-30 can be used in the 5.7. It does for the 3.6. I have seen other members complain the 5W-30 screws with the MDS so since I am under warranty and don't have it "tuned" off I wonder if it is wise to try the 5W-30. I do run it in our 2013 Jeep Wrangler with the 3.6. Thoughts?

Ive been running 5w20 for years and my engine is showing signs of wear. New it never had the Hemi Tick but now the tick is very loud, my catch can would have to be emptied every 6 months now its every 30 days. Even my friends ford focus takes 5w20 and its a little tiny car with a 4 cylinder, even my lawn mower takes 30w oil. Seems a little confusing to me so I figured I would try 5w30 and see how it goes. Worst case I go back to 20w oil.

 

[smiley]

Comparing to a lawn mower is a little unfair as the precision of these motors are certainly more precise compared to a Briggs and Stratton or probably any other lawn mower unless something expensive. 5W-20 is not bad it just probably isn't as good as 5W-30. I have MDS turned off via tuner and 5w-20 does seem to disappear over time either via burn or via blow by.

 

[Hemi395]

IMO 5w20 has no business being in a 395hp V8. The film strength just isn't there for that kind of pressure on rod bearings, wrist pins, main bearings, etc. However with that said there's Hemi's out there with over 200k running nothing but 5w20.

 

[huntergreen]

I still say 5w20 has no business being in a 395hp V8. The film strength just isn't there for that kind of pressure on rod bearings, wrist pins, main bearings, etc. However with that said there's Hemi's out there with over 200k running nothing but 5w20.

there are a few semi engines that have made it to 300000 miles that i have read about in some truck mags. no engine tear downs, top or bottom, were done for repairs.

 

[smiley]

there are a few semi engines that have made it to 300000 miles that i have read about in some truck mags. no engine tear downs, top or bottom, were done for repairs.

Do you mean 3 million? 300,000 on a semi is nothing from what I have seen.

 

[SyN]

We or Some of us know the reality is----> Some of the 20wt oils have proved themselves to be above average performers in (Daily Drivers).

The Fact is we 5.7L owners do have other options. (0W-30 / 5W-30 / 10W-30 / 0W-40). Which have also Proven to perform extremely well in those 5.7L used as daily drives & those that are worked hard on a regular basis. (Without effecting the MDS System in any way shape or form).
I can honestly say I have not read one negative comment within this thread from an 5.7L owner who made the switch from the CAFE driven 20Wt to a 30Wt.

I don't & never have bad mouthed the 20wt oils nor the owners who run the Viscosity.
I just feel the sensible need to run a more Robust/Stouter option!

No harm running either option!

 

[R.L.K.]

Well said Sir SyN .

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[HDMontana]

I don't seem to have the hemi tick. Oil change coming up. Going with 5 quarts 5w20 pup and 2 quarts 0w40 pup. Have only had the truck since January and it has 70,000 miles on it. I believe this combination might be adequate for me.

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[Murphy Slaw]

I don't seem to have the hemi tick. Oil change coming up. Going with 5 quarts 5w20 pup and 2 quarts 0w40 pup. Have only had the truck since January and it has 70,000 miles on it. I believe this combination might be adequate for me.

I like that combo.

If they would make PUP available locally, that would be mine as well.

But....

I will not give Amazon / Bezo's any of my money......

 

[R.L.K.]

PUP is worth the shipping imo

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[Tmemz]

I seem to have developed a tick on start up but not exactly sure if it is a tick at all. It only does it sometimes and often not. It last for maybe 5-7 seconds. I'm currently running 5w30 pup and have almost 3k on the oil.

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[R.L.K.]

I seem to have developed a tick on start up but not exactly sure if it is a tick at all. It only does it sometimes and often not. It last for maybe 5-7 seconds. I'm currently running 5w30 pup and have almost 3k on the oil.

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What type of oil filter Sir ?

A quality 100% synthetic oil filter with a silicone ADBV Anti Drain Back Valve is what I'd recommend.
One like the RP 10-48 filter .

Even with a great oil like 5W-30 PUP & a quality filter & ADBV I've head others say if the truck sits overnight they still sometimes get a few seconds of lifter tapping . I also heard some say if the start & move the truck out of the way , shut it off and only minutes later crank it up & they sometimes get the same noise .

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