Jerseystyle
Senior Member
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2017
- Posts
- 651
- Reaction score
- 350
- Ram Year
- 2007
- Engine
- 4.7
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It's always a good idea to replace u-bolts anyway.There is a bolt that goes through the pack in the center. You would need to replace that with a shorter bolt. Also have a look at the U bolts and make sure the threads go past the overload to determine if you would need to replace those as well.
It's always a good idea to replace u-bolts anyway.
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Attempted to replace the LH parking brake cable today. The tensioner was so rusted I couldn't loosen it. I cut the threaded section down to get a deep socket over the nut, my 1/2" impact wouldn't budge it. Ordered a Mopar replacement from eBay, guess I'll try again next weekend.
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"The reason u-bolts should be replaced after they have been torque is because the threads are rolled, not cut.I edited my last to include my response to the 'look at your suspension and check the U-bolts and spring penetrating bolt' stuff.
Bought it and got it delivered today! Deezee tailgate assist coming tomorrow, too.
(I have a busy day between laundry, donating plasma, and bedlining. Hope I can also install the deezee and tonneau as well. I won't be upset if I don't. After priming today the bedliner is my main concern being the oldest project aside from the tonneau, which needed the bedliner to be done. )
Thanks for the recommendation. At $45,it was much cheaper than summit, where the McG's shackles were $80.
Much beefier in my hand than they look in the pics, too. I was concerned about the models that didn't have the flat plate connecting the two bars, but holding these hefty things in my hands has alleviated all doubt.
It's a shame the grease fittings aren't already installed, though. Quick q, if I'm working my myself or with 1-2 young helpers, should I bother taking the bed off for this installation or no?
As far as the bolts under there go, the U-bolts seem fine and have enough threading to remove the O/L. IDK about this bolt that goes through the middle of the leaves, though, I couldn't see that one.
My spring pack seems a little bent to me, but idk. Towards the middle it's kinda flat, and if it were loaded all the way down, I'd say it'd start to look wavy/W-shaped. Is this as sign of the springs being toast?
Sent from my magic 5-inch
no way would i take the bed off for the drop shackles, that would be WAY overkill...
as far as your leafs go, im not there looking at them so i cant really comment
Nice.
...Okay, NOW the wheels/tires look small, haha...
Sent from my magic 5-inch
Bought it on eBay it’s awesomeDig the flag holder. You make that? I want one.
Hey, Danny, do you have any pics of a full 3000k front end setup? Trying to decide if I'll like the look or not. I want the greatest functionality, especially for inclement weather where it matters, but to me, the whites look better from pics. But I can hardly find pics of a full yellow setup.
What I wish for is lights that can switch back and forth between ~3000k and ~6000k. I've done a lot of reading and everything points to pure white being better for perfect conditions at night, while the yellows are better for fog, rain, snow, and any inclement weather. {In any case, if I went mixed, I can't decide if yellow top, white fogs, or white top yellow fogs look better. Or what to do with the parking/turns in any case.}
Honestly, I'd love to have my heads and fogs always wired together, and when I pull the switch on my dash out, they switch from white to yellow[parking lights, too. Can switchbacks be wired like that?] l And I also want to be able to toggle on my high beams without my fogs shutting off rather than having to hold them on in the middle position like I do now.
....And I also want to be able to toggle on my high beams without my fogs shutting off rather than having to hold them on in the middle position like I do now.
Alot of people in the 3g world wire their fogs to come on woth the parking lights, then they stay on with the high and low beams