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It's in the rv storage lot on base... I don't think that would go over very well lol.556
Great suggestions... thanks. I may try a couple if the current ones don't work. I may also try a little heat too... just a propane torch, nothing crazy.Maybe CLR? I have had some luck soaking correded stuff in regular old glycol coolant, also. Last resort before the blue wrench migh be something highly caustic, which will eat aluminum like alka seltzer.
Haha... if it gets to that point, I will drag the plasma cutter out and hang on to the lock with a vise grip. Already played that one in my head too.Just thinking.
Flip the lock out so it’s perpendicular to the door (sticking straight out)... take a rope and wrap it around a lock a couple times so it keeps it from flipping back-and-forth and tie a knot on it so the lock is permanently sticking out then cut it off with a cut off wheel right down the middle of the lock.
It’s easy to say because I’m not there but its working great in my head right now!! In fact i just got it off.
Yup it worked.
I should have and will from now on for sure. Had I known I'd have to drive 30 miles through a salt mine, I would have. Lesson learned.I'm surprised you didn't have it soaked up with Amsoil heavy duty metal protector. That's what I used to use on mine, a little stiff slow operation in the winter but never had corrosion problems.
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Found this survey surprising. M1 in first place. Must be a reason. I guess PUP is in others.
Did you try heat ?I should have and will from now on for sure. Had I known I'd have to drive 30 miles through a salt mine, I would have. Lesson learned.
Well, I do think the innards are aluminum. Def not stainless and not ferrous. I used a small pickup magnet on it.
I tried PB, liquid wrench PO, Amsoil MP, and finally the little blue wrench. Still can't even get the key in past 1/4 of the way. I soaked it with all those and wrapped it with a rag. I'll let it sit over night and see what happens.
I do have a set of 36" bolt cutters but I don't think I can get them in there. At this point, I'm thinking the plasma cutter will do the least damage because it is recessed, so I can get behind it and direct the plasma outward and away from the door. I may resort to that.
Thanks for all the suggestions!
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Except one. How to factually determine which of the top high end synthetic oils reduce wear, dissipate heat and protect rotating parts at start up. Respect the chemist and engineers who take the time to explain oil shear, drop point etc. I agree, this forum will eventually get those who want to know, our answer.Mobil one is on the shelf of basically every oil supplier in the US. The have the market pinned down.
Thats why. Name recognition. Yes its still good oil. Great...? No.
You should hang around more. This thread is informative many ways
.Great suggestions... thanks. I may try a couple if the current ones don't work. I may also try a little heat too... just a propane torch, nothing crazy.
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The only one I can think of that you haven't tried is sea foam deep creep. Have heard it's really good stuff but never used it myself.I should have and will from now on for sure. Had I known I'd have to drive 30 miles through a salt mine, I would have. Lesson learned.
Well, I do think the innards are aluminum. Def not stainless and not ferrous. I used a small pickup magnet on it.
I tried PB, liquid wrench PO, Amsoil MP, and finally the little blue wrench. Still can't even get the key in past 1/4 of the way. I soaked it with all those and wrapped it with a rag. I'll let it sit over night and see what happens.
I do have a set of 36" bolt cutters but I don't think I can get them in there. At this point, I'm thinking the plasma cutter will do the least damage because it is recessed, so I can get behind it and direct the plasma outward and away from the door. I may resort to that.
Thanks for all the suggestions!
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S8 using Tapatalk