Synthetic Oil

[Burla]

Thursday: 4Qts RL C+ will be going in after I suck out 4qts of the FF/Schaeffers.
Hopefully this will benefit my 68RFE in the long run.

Will do this procedure 2 more times before Nov.

Syn, thanks brother for inadvertently lighting a fire under my ass to get on my coolant system. Here's the thread, I don't see any issues even though I went 4 extra years on 5 year hoat coolant. RMI-25 seams to work fine in the hemi, it was in this coolant factory fill for something like 2 or 3 years. I added it when I knew I was supposed to change the fluid because I knew I was putting it off. For what it's worth, I took pics and I didn't see any issues. New versus 9 year old HOAT pic with rmi25 in for years, pretty sure it was 16 ounces or better.

 

[Hemi395]

Very well summarized Burla. Your post alone has convinced me enough to run 5w30! Now I'm in a funny predicament because of warranty issues. I plan to drive this truck to the ground but I dont want to void my warranty. I have 4 years and 75,000km left on the powertrain which is quite significant. I'm wondering how i can trick the dealer in using 5w20 but in fact running 5w30. Perhaps I can purchase 2jugs of 5w20 and scan the receipt and then exchange it for 5w30.

You could also order the FCA approved oil of your choice from Amazon, print the receipt out, and then cancel the order.............................not that I would know that works.....

 

[Burla]

I tell ya the fluid film is off my truck near 100%. Again, that was the can spray, but at best that is minimum protection compared to Corey's fluid film thread. The can spray does NOT equal the barrel stuff.

That bolt beat me today, an hour at least in contorted positions. I forget Corey but the 14mm wasn't snug on mine, ended with with something close to 9/16 I forget the exact bolt. I'm pretty sure it wasn't the 5/8's which is equal to 14mm. When I found the right bolt it stuck like super glue, 5 minutes was just getting the socket off the bolt. And I was at it with the impact wrench. Half of the time or better was trying to get the bolt on the nut, and then off the nut, lol. Didn't want to torch it with those wires near it. I hate that I punted that, but I was beat and that was that. We will see how many flushes to get it florescent orange.

 

[SyN]

I apologize Burla!
Glad there was never a issue!

Here is a little something!

https://www.partsgalaxy.com/ymms/20...MIgMXzv_XF3QIVBgdpCh0X-gv3EAQYASABEgJBGvD_BwE

Remove front grill and 2 bolts and a simple hose.

 

[U&A]

I apologize Burla!

Here is a little something!

https://www.partsgalaxy.com/ymms/20...MIgMXzv_XF3QIVBgdpCh0X-gv3EAQYASABEgJBGvD_BwE

Remove front grill and 2 bolts and a simple hose.

Why isnt your OEM clear? Mine is....


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[Burla]

I apologize Burla!
Glad there was never a issue!

Here is a little something!

https://www.partsgalaxy.com/ymms/20...MIgMXzv_XF3QIVBgdpCh0X-gv3EAQYASABEgJBGvD_BwE

Remove front grill and 2 bolts and a simple hose.

You have zero to apologize about.

 

[SyN]

Mine on my 6.7L is clear.
My 2014 was black thus the reason I made the switch.
I wanted to see my coolant level, without have to screw with a dam dip stick!

 

[U&A]

So do we officially have SYN back in the thread now?


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[Burla]

FCA's has black for 2010, total ****, but like I said I found out they have a dip stick in the tank, makes it less of an issue. I will upgrade at some point. Maybe not this round of flushes but the next. Now at best I get 4 years I'm thinking. No more messing with coolant maintenance, you can get away with it when the truck is new, but no way with a decade old truck.

 

[U&A]

Mine on my 6.7L is clear.
My 2014 was black thus the reason I made the switch.
I wanted to see my coolant level, without have to screw with a dam dip stick!

Wow. Thats crazy dude. Black. LOL! That doesn’t work...


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[SyN]

Believe it or not the windshield wash tank was on the other side and it was the same color to (Black)

 

[U&A]

Believe it or not the windshield wash tank was on the other side and it was the same color to (Black)

The same guy that programed the shift points on the entire RFE transmission family


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[Burla]

The same sunofa gun spec'd the cams as well.

If darwin was right, all these fools should be long dead. I don't get it.

 

[LeesEvoX]

So after a couple hundred miles of running this unicorn ****. I have determind the genital fluids of a mystical horse is well worth the money.

My truck started doing this weird cold start thing a while back. Since I have a carven muffler. The best thing to hear in the morning was the truck make that glorious ROAR to life. But lately, it kinda stumbled to life. Just sounded weaker starting from cold.

But now..... its ROARS right up like it used to.

(Also found out I have broken manifold studs, that's how quiet the engine is now hahaha)

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[huntergreen]

Mine on my 6.7L is clear.
My 2014 was black thus the reason I made the switch.
I wanted to see my coolant level, without have to screw with a dam dip stick!

I wonder who dreamed up the black tank?

 

[Ramnewbie]

I wonder who dreamed up the black tank?

Probably some bean counters. It was probably 1/2¢ per hundred to make everything black.

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[Burla]

Maybe they were going for a look? Can you see the white coolant tank through grill on some models? I haven't a clue past that, purdy dumb. They are no mass produced item as in just a random part, it is very specific to hemi's.

 

[smiley]

Syn, thanks brother for inadvertently lighting a fire under my ass to get on my coolant system. Here's the thread, I don't see any issues even though I went 4 extra years on 5 year hoat coolant. RMI-25 seams to work fine in the hemi, it was in this coolant factory fill for something like 2 or 3 years. I added it when I knew I was supposed to change the fluid because I knew I was putting it off. For what it's worth, I took pics and I didn't see any issues. New versus 9 year old HOAT pic with rmi25 in for years, pretty sure it was 16 ounces or better.

I personally think the 5 year stuff can do 10 years easy and a person should just replace when they replace the water pump. Mine looked perfect and was almost 10 years old. It tested fine for protection still too.

I am not sure about the 10 year stuff maybe it is good for 15-20. If you remember many folks ran the green for years and years too but that stuff does get bad you can smell it and see it.

 

[chrisbh17]

Personally I don't like pour in additives. I'd go redline. It took me along time to get here but redline is my ride or die for my Hemi


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Im not a fan either, but it might be a good way to remain "factory", have the dealer do an oil change then just supplement it with an additive after you leave. I know nothing will "fix" 5W-20 to make it better, but if we're worried about voiding MaxCare, having the documented 5-20 will go a long way.

I tell ya the fluid film is off my truck near 100%. Again, that was the can spray, but at best that is minimum protection compared to Corey's fluid film thread. The can spray does NOT equal the barrel stuff.

That bolt beat me today, an hour at least in contorted positions. I forget Corey but the 14mm wasn't snug on mine, ended with with something close to 9/16 I forget the exact bolt. I'm pretty sure it wasn't the 5/8's which is equal to 14mm. When I found the right bolt it stuck like super glue, 5 minutes was just getting the socket off the bolt. And I was at it with the impact wrench. Half of the time or better was trying to get the bolt on the nut, and then off the nut, lol. Didn't want to torch it with those wires near it. I hate that I punted that, but I was beat and that was that. We will see how many flushes to get it florescent orange.

I got my jug of Corrosion Free Rust Cure this week. I used it last year shortly after buying my truck. Ive used Fluid Film before on a different truck, and have to say Corrosion Free is far better to work with. No dripping, doesnt smell like wet sheep, etc. Here we are a year later and in most places under my truck you can see still evidence of it. And no surface rust has shown up other than what was there when I bought the truck (standard stuff like driveshaft, brake backing plate, etc). I plan on re-coating tomorrow or this weekend, I just wasnt sure how far I should go in cleaning off the existing coating....there is some dirt and stuff embedded in it, but I dont think I want to pressure wash all of it off. Not sure how far to go with prepping before re-coating.

 

[Ramnewbie]

Im not a fan either, but it might be a good way to remain "factory", have the dealer do an oil change then just supplement it with an additive after you leave. I know nothing will "fix" 5W-20 to make it better, but if we're worried about voiding MaxCare, having the documented 5-20 will go a long way.



I got my jug of Corrosion Free Rust Cure this week. I used it last year shortly after buying my truck. Ive used Fluid Film before on a different truck, and have to say Corrosion Free is far better to work with. No dripping, doesnt smell like wet sheep, etc. Here we are a year later and in most places under my truck you can see still evidence of it. And no surface rust has shown up other than what was there when I bought the truck (standard stuff like driveshaft, brake backing plate, etc). I plan on re-coating tomorrow or this weekend, I just wasnt sure how far I should go in cleaning off the existing coating....there is some dirt and stuff embedded in it, but I dont think I want to pressure wash all of it off. Not sure how far to go with prepping before re-coating.

If you're stuck on 5/20 why not go with redline 5/20? The closest ram dealer to me does not stock PP or PUP 5/20, if you go in there with you're hemi and want a synthetic oil change they call advance auto or Napa and get 7 Qts of house brand synthetic.

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