AlfaOBD

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fraleywp

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2018
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EcoDiesel
Its been said by several people that it takes several hours for all of the settings to populate properly between bcm and rf hub. This just adds more validation to that fact.
Exactly, which is why I mentioned that it started working after some time. It was more of a confirmation of that being true. Also, to clarify what I meant by not being sure what made it work. I tried all of this initially a few days prior. But I missed the second hood ajar monitoring setting. So I am not sure if adding that or just the time passing is what resolved it and allows it to now work.
 

likes2build

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Mohawk Valley, NY
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2018 Express RCSB
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3.6 Pentastar
fraleywp, good point on that it all might be there. I have to put an order in to Benny @AllMoparParts.com for a list of items and I'll just include the repair kit for convenience sake but I will try your suggestion. Being as the truck is a stripped out Tradesman that had nothing but an Express on it,maybe it will work out, maybe not. If I have to add it it's only a ground and 1 wire to #11 so I'm not worried about anything failing.
 

fraleywp

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EcoDiesel
fraleywp, good point on that it all might be there. I have to put an order in to Benny @AllMoparParts.com for a list of items and I'll just include the repair kit for convenience sake but I will try your suggestion. Being as the truck is a stripped out Tradesman that had nothing but an Express on it,maybe it will work out, maybe not. If I have to add it it's only a ground and 1 wire to #11 so I'm not worried about anything failing.
I agree it is a minor wiring addition, but nevertheless it is another point of failure in regards to troubleshooting. If my truck had not passed the test I wouldn't have blinked an eye at running the wires either.
 

cubmedic

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Danville, Va
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Hemi 5.7
Will this work with an Android Tablet? I have an iPhone but still have my Tablet.
 

mjf6175

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NJ
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2017
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cummins
Found a NEW option, the settings are below:

Chimney: set (do not set optional FIRE setting)
Cookies & Milk: set (may choose optional CHOCOLATE milk)
Tree: set
Lights: set (choose HID, LED, or Halogen) multi-colored
Presents Wrapped: set (paper, cloth or if real expensive then leather)
Snow: do NOT set that one
Merry Xmas: SET to ALL

After making the above setting changes, the BCM should have them ready by Midnight Dec.24

PEACE...........
 
Last edited:

WTM75

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2017
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3.6 Pentastar
I agree with you. But, if you have the OEM harness, why not test it? It worked perfectly in my case and I only had the cost of the latch at 30 something bucks. I also found an OEM Key-N-Go 4 button remote that was reset to use for $35. It was very simple to program it all using alfaodb.

As I mentioned before, you can run a test in alfaodb that provides a status check of all the systems in the truck. I ran it with the hood closed and with the hood popped from the release and it showed correctly when it was ajar. Running another harness just creates another point of failure in my eyes. It seems logical that if you have a Laramie with Key-N-Go, the wiring is already there. It also seems logical that the reason the Mopar kit shows incompatible for my truck is due to the remotes included in the kit being incorrect and the wiring being unnecessary. Who knows for sure.

Sent from my Z2_PRO using Tapatalk

How do you test the harness to ensure it is populated all the way through? I do have the plug and the wires do run into the plug but I loose them there. What are the steps with Alpha for running the hood test?? Thanks
 

fengfengfeng

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china hebei tangshan
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2016
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Hemi 5.7
This switch can turn the air suspension setting into rebel, set off1 to the default height, I have tested, 4wd works normally, and no problems are found. I will continue to study other switches. However, if my car is broken, no one can help me fix it. Haha

20181224_085344.jpg

Screenshot_20181224-074545_AlfaOBD.jpg

20181224_085344.jpg

20181224_085337.jpg
 

fraleywp

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EcoDiesel
How do you test the harness to ensure it is populated all the way through? I do have the plug and the wires do run into the plug but I loose them there. What are the steps with Alpha for running the hood test?? Thanks
You can verify function in alfaodb by connecting to your vehicle, choose bcm then once connected to bcm click the battery icon at the bottom(Android version). From the click on read system status. This will list all the systems and current status. There are several related to the hood latch. Look for closed, ajar, etc. Based on whether the hood is open or closed these readings will change.

You could also tone the wire but that takes considerably more effort.

Sent from my Z2_PRO using Tapatalk
 

WTM75

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2017
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You can verify function in alfaodb by connecting to your vehicle, choose bcm then once connected to bcm click the battery icon at the bottom(Android version). From the click on read system status. This will list all the systems and current status. There are several related to the hood latch. Look for closed, ajar, etc. Based on whether the hood is open or closed these readings will change.

You could also tone the wire but that takes considerably more effort.

Sent from my Z2_PRO using Tapatalk


Thank you, I’ll have to try in the morning.
 

reloaderguy

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Oregon
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2016 Power Wagon
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6.4 Hemi
default was 91%, changed to 98%. Think the low level was 8% and I dropped to whatever the minimum was; without looking I think it was 6%.

Edit: Just checked. Low level, I actually set at 2%.

Those settings changes I applied to both tanks 1 and 2; I think the general consensus is that tank 2 is for def. When I filled up this morning I was below the thin red line just above empty, pretty much hovering between the white line, and the thin red. Took almost 26 gallons to fill.

Thanks for the info. I think your info is for tank 2. My Tank 1 setting were 16% empty and 23% LFW. My Tank 2 settings are the same as yours.
 

shadowhawk

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Black metallic 2016 Sport- born 05/2016
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hemi 5.7 with I2 tune
JB mentioned that ALFA could fix my turn signal out msg from the stupid Spyder tail lights I bought. I looked thru the known codes and didn't see LED turn signal settings. Any help?
 

kad

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JB mentioned that ALFA could fix my turn signal out msg from the stupid Spyder tail lights I bought. I looked thru the known codes and didn't see LED turn signal settings. Any help?

They are under the CBC Features section. Below are the settings from my truck, which has factory projectors and LED tails. I modified the Reverse Lamp and License Lamp settings as I added LEDs in those locations.

CBC Features Configuration:
LED Reverse Lamps Present: Set
LED Stop Lamps Present: Set
LED Rear Turn Lamps Present: Set
LED Tail Lamps Present: Set
LED Rear Fog Lamps Present: Not set
LED License Lamps Present: Set
LED Front Turn Lamps Present: Set
LED Front Fog Lamps Present: Not set
LED Dedicated DRL Present: Not set
LED Low Beam Lamps Present: Not set
LED High Beam Lamps Present: Not set
LED Front Park/Marker Lamps Present: Set

-K
 

Fremen

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Ottawa
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3.0
So today I try to program my fobik on the highline system.

No issues getting pin from ontario dealer.
 

shadowhawk

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Black metallic 2016 Sport- born 05/2016
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hemi 5.7 with I2 tune
They are under the CBC Features section. Below are the settings from my truck, which has factory projectors and LED tails. I modified the Reverse Lamp and License Lamp settings as I added LEDs in those locations.

CBC Features Configuration:
LED Reverse Lamps Present: Set
LED Stop Lamps Present: Set
LED Rear Turn Lamps Present: Set
LED Tail Lamps Present: Set
LED Rear Fog Lamps Present: Not set
LED License Lamps Present: Set
LED Front Turn Lamps Present: Set
LED Front Fog Lamps Present: Not set
LED Dedicated DRL Present: Not set
LED Low Beam Lamps Present: Not set
LED High Beam Lamps Present: Not set
LED Front Park/Marker Lamps Present: Set

-K


it just bothers me that the sport has LED tails, and the spyders throw a code. They are supposed to have the resistors in them... plug and play, as they say
 

fraleywp

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2018
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EcoDiesel
it just bothers me that the sport has LED tails, and the spyders throw a code. They are supposed to have the resistors in them... plug and play, as they say
It may be the opposite problem. They draw too much current for a vehicle with factory LED. Try setting it to non LED setting.

Sent from my Z2_PRO using Tapatalk
 
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WTM75

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2017
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3.6 Pentastar
You can verify function in alfaodb by connecting to your vehicle, choose bcm then once connected to bcm click the battery icon at the bottom(Android version). From the click on read system status. This will list all the systems and current status. There are several related to the hood latch. Look for closed, ajar, etc. Based on whether the hood is open or closed these readings will change.

You could also tone the wire but that takes considerably more effort.

Sent from my Z2_PRO using Tapatalk

I just went out and realized, I don’t have the hood latch so this is not going to work. Lol

I did notice that I had 11.60 volts present at “ Hood Ajar Switch Voltage”. I don’t know if that means that I have everything populated that I would need or not??

506431A9-B968-42ED-9F52-D54976F9A6ED.jpeg
 

Jimmy07

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I just went out and realized, I don’t have the hood latch so this is not going to work. Lol

I did notice that I had 11.60 volts present at “ Hood Ajar Switch Voltage”. I don’t know if that means that I have everything populated that I would need or not??

View attachment 150011
Look at the connector in this post https://www.ramforum.com/threads/how-to-add-remote-start-to-2017-ram.99849/ It is located under the fuse block in the fuse box. You can completely expose this connector by pushing in the 4 tabs on the fuse block and pulling it straight up out of the fuse box and rotate it out of the way. If you have the hood latch plug, and you have a 1500, there will be a VT/BU wire in pin location number 5 (hood ajar switch sense), and there will be a VT/BN wire in pin location number 6 (ground). If you have a 2500/3500, they will be in pin locations 1&2 respectively. If those same colored wires are coming out of the same pin location slots on the mating connector, then you’re completely wired from the hood latch connector to the BCM. The VT/BU wire goes from that connector straight to pin 11 on the C1/A BCM connector, and the VT/BN wire goes from that connector straight to pin 23 on the C4/D BCM connector. If this is the case, you only need the hood latch. If not, then you’ll need to finish running the sense wire to the bcm, and you’ll need to either actually ground the sensor ground wire, or finish running it to the BCM also.
 
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