4th gen obx headers *pics*

[bassheadhemi]

Dude i dont even know what I was Thinking. I ahve owned 3 sets of ARH LT's and catted y pipes, thought hey, I'll order these and see if they are evne decent. Scrap metal in comparison to ARH products

Going on the local buy and sell today, DNW this poop on my truck

With the current dollar we are talking around 2500$ for the ARH. Is the extra $ really worth it for something you can't see?

We don't have long term data for these, but their other products seems to last from what I've read.

 

[N1ck]

I ran a OBX header on a rather heavily modified Mitsubishi for several years, through Canadian winters without any issues. Some people get so butt hurt over obx

 

[adrianp89]

I ran a OBX header on a rather heavily modified Mitsubishi for several years, through Canadian winters without any issues. Some people get so butt hurt over obx

I think people get butt hurt because they paid $2500 when another guy paid $500.

 

[badfish888]

Are there threads for the factory 02 sensors And you just need to buy extenders? I wonder if they will thro codes

Never mind bout the bungs As i can see the holes now. But im wonderi g if it will thro the check engine light

 

[N1ck]

You will throw a code, to take full advantage of our trucks you will want a tune. At that time simply have your tuner remove the code

 

[bgray]

Can you explain why you think the quality is so bad?

The welds in comparison to all my ARH options are terrible. Where the Flange welds onto the tube, the welds are not consistent and smooth. The MEtal is also very thin in comparison. Fitment wise sure they might be ok, but Compared to all the ARH products and Kooks products ive bought over the years, these are chinesse crap

 

[bgray]

With the current dollar we are talking around 2500$ for the ARH. Is the extra $ really worth it for something you can't see?

We don't have long term data for these, but their other products seems to last from what I've read.

Hence why I bought them. But observing there quality, I wouldn't run them on my Truck. Id rather stock headers until im fine with spending 2500 on ARH in Canadian dollars.

Some people may be fine with a low2er quality product , but for me, I will pass.

 

[bgray]

I think people get butt hurt because they paid $2500 when another guy paid $500.

IF you own both a high quality header...then look at an OBX headers. You can see and feel the difference. Would they work? Yes.... but if your a stickler on quality...maybe not. Other factory is the OBX does not come with Cats, there just resonators. MY experience with no cats results in very raspy exhaust tones

Are there threads for the factory 02 sensors And you just need to buy extenders? I wonder if they will thro codes

Never mind bout the bungs As i can see the holes now. But im wonderi g if it will thro the check engine light

Defiently get a CEL, this deletes the cats. Your downstream a/F will be out of wack. Tune it out is a great option if you already have a 1000$ tune(2015+ owners)

 

[Broke pilot]

Headers are headers... The cheaper the better as long as they hold together. Unless you're tuning for max high rpm HP on a race motor worth more than the truck none of y'all are going to see more than a 3-4hp difference in he headers, and that's probly due to altitude, humidity etc where you live. Headers are just tubes welded up for these trucks where they fit. They're not a tri-Y, equal length or anything special.
I can buy 5 pairs of OBX before I get one set of ARH. I ran OBX on my 1LE Camaro, and they were great. Had them coated and they looked great too. Plus it left more money for more after the fact. Come to think of it, my cam, pushrods, springs and tune didn't add up to $2500 with the headers....
Just my .02, which is probly not even worth .02

 

[AustinB]

Wait.. So headers don't add 10hp and improved throttle response??


IMO

 

[boostking101]

I think he is referring to one brand over the other is only going to be 3-4 hp difference maybe.

For my .02 broke pilot is 100% correct. Just because you spend 2500 doesn't mean anything in regard to being worth it. We've seen this same BS in the diesel world. Companies want 6k for a turbo setup but someone else can do it for 3k and all the sudden it can't be as good... Companies selling pipping kits for 1500.00 doesn't make the pipping worth it. I will be giving these ago. And if they crack well I guess I can buy 5 more sets to break even. Oooo and FYI I have seen plenty of "high dollar crap break too" I'm going to coat them as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hemi450hp]

The ARH headers are only $1500-$1600 USD. That $2500 CAD number is what the Canadian guys were posting because their dollar is so bad right now.

And there probably is only a few hp difference between brands, but where ARH shines is in their options and quality of material/work. For anyone that needs tq, you really want to stick with a 1 3/4 header instead of a 1 7/8 like the OBX. 1 7/8" headers make good top end power, but give up some tq. This is OK if you have gears and a higher stall tq converter, but someone with a simple intake and tuner is going to feel a loss of tq down low with a 1 7/8" header.

For anyone that is worried about emissions and needs an actual catalytic converter, ARH is your best bet as OBX does not offer this. The OBX "cats" are just hollow resonators.

The ARH tubing is a thicker material as well which is going to reduce the amount of valvetrain tick that you will no doubt hear with the thinner wall OBX headers.

ARH's welds are better as well, so there is less worry of leaks over time.

I 100% understand the reasoning behind wanting to try the cheaper OBX, but I dont think anyone can classify them in the same group as ARH.

 

[Broke pilot]

Matt makes some good points, but I have to disagree with 1.75 vs 1 7/8" headers. I promise you none of y'all will notice a difference between the two. You can bash headers and bang in pipes all day and they still flow 99% the same until you go forced induction. A NA motor doesn't produce enough exhaust gas to fill the header tube beyond 1psi as long as you have a free flowing exhaust, so in simple terms, the header tube isn't "full".
Hotrodders have been bashing headers to make them work in things they weren't designed for for decades... I've done it. And before anyone brings up scavenging and so on with the different size pipes, headers are headers, as I said before. They're going to perform better than a factory manifold. One set May produce slightly different results but it can be related to many different things. (Mostly it's in people's head for seat of the pants feel)
Watch these guys from Motortrend/Hotrod magazine. They prove that headers are headers no matter what shape they're in...
http://youtu.be/azPKIjxmmdU

 

[Hemi450hp]

I will also say yes and no to the comparison of a 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" headers. Peak numbers may be very similar between the 2 on an engine dyno, but the larger primary tubing is going to raise the rpm band where it makes those peak numbers. This means that once you put that large primary header on a heavy truck with stock gearing and tq converter, it can make your truck slower down low and through the 1/4 mile.

Many guys have installed JBA 1 7/8" longtubes only to find that they lost quite a bit of tq down low. Its not necessarily a bad thing if you plan to add gear and a higher stall converter, but I will not put a 1 7/8" header on my personal truck without those supporting tq mods down low.

 

[jknappen]

Everyone talks about arh and obx jba etc.... What about kooks or Gibson or stainless works, hookers or headmans.

 

[Statcher1]

I will also say yes and no to the comparison of a 1 3/4" to 1 7/8" headers. Peak numbers may be very similar between the 2 on an engine dyno, but the larger primary tubing is going to raise the rpm band where it makes those peak numbers. This means that once you put that large primary header on a heavy truck with stock gearing and tq converter, it can make your truck slower down low and through the 1/4 mile.

Many guys have installed JBA 1 7/8" longtubes only to find that they lost quite a bit of tq down low. Its not necessarily a bad thing if you plan to add gear and a higher stall converter, but I will not put a 1 7/8" header on my personal truck without those supporting tq mods down low.

Matt,
I know your not a big dyno guy. But do know the different numbers the trucks are making with the differences in header sizes. I'm curious as I'm running the JBA 1 7/8 Longtubes. My truck still feels plenty strong down low. But I've never rode in a truck with 1 3/4 Longtubes to compare it to.


Sent from the Rocket in my Pocket

 

[Hemi450hp]

Peak numbers are usually within 4-5hp/tq of each other, but they just occur at a higher rpm with the larger primary. This is why the 1 7/8" do well for guys with gearing or converter. They get the tq down low from those mods, and then a strong pull up top from the larger primary.

 

[Statcher1]

Peak numbers are usually within 4-5hp/tq of each other, but they just occur at a higher rpm with the larger primary. This is why the 1 7/8" do well for guys with gearing or converter. They get the tq down low from those mods, and then a strong pull up top from the larger primary.

Appreciate it man. I'm planning on doing a gear and LSD. This summer I'm just having trouble deciding how low I want to go in gearing.


Sent from the Rocket in my Pocket

 

[bassheadhemi]

Peak numbers are usually within 4-5hp/tq of each other, but they just occur at a higher rpm with the larger primary. This is why the 1 7/8" do well for guys with gearing or converter. They get the tq down low from those mods, and then a strong pull up top from the larger primary.

So from your other post about the 3.92 and 8 speed combo the 1 7/8 should work fine even with a little loss on the low end?

 

[Hemi450hp]

The 8sp is a whole new animal. 1 7/8 are fine on an 8sp with 3.92s because the first few gears are geared so high, and the shift recovery at the start is each new gear is higher than the 5/6sp trucks.