Factory ZF 8 speed transmission fill procedure after doing a tranny service

[chrisbh17]

I hear ya on the Nissans. Every later model one I've owned and currently own a 2015 Versa sedan and 2019 Pathfinder are like this. You have to remove the caliper bracket to get that lower caliper pin out.

In regards to the Ram 1500 brake maintenance, to me the most important thing on these trucks is cleaning and re-lubing the rear parking brake cams that run through the rear dust plates. If all that rusts solid on you.. and it will disturbingly quickly in the rust belt, you're looking at a $1200+ shop job to get it fixed.

My 2017 took some doing to get them freed back up as they had stuck even though I used the P-brake a few times a month and I've already cleaned and lubed my 2019 once.

Just added that to the maintenance list for the RAM!

My G37 came first, its 10.5 years old and the only maintenance I ever did on it was oil and filter. Granted, only has 53K miles but still. Already changed front and rear diff fluid, up next will be transfer case and transmission (one of those "lifetime sealed" units, of course....)

Ive had other Nissans as well and honestly start to see why they are less expensive than Honda and Toyota. Stupid designs, materials that somehow rust if you look at them funny, etc. Our Hondas/Acura/Lexus never had those issues and they are easy to work on, at least in regards to basic maintenance stuff.

 

[PoMansRam]

Oh for sure on that. I like Nissans because pre Rona days, you got a lot of vehicle for your money when buying them lightly used.

Changing transfer case gear oil on our pathfinder is pretty awful laying on your back underneath, but the darn thing only holds a few OUNCES of gear oil and is packed near the exhaust, so if you want it to last you have to do it. Thankfully the CVT on the darn thing is easier than an engine oil change to do a spill and fill on. Rear diff is super easy on it too.

 

[Rod Knock]

So, I just ordered Wagner OEX 1084 for the front and Wagner OEX 967A for the rear. Altogether shipped $107. I hope that they're better pads than the OEM. I will keep the stock rotors, they look to be in great shape at only 32K miles. Do you guys have any experience with these pads? I considered Duralast Elite pads and Carquest Semi-Metalic Severe Duty, however, I don't tow enough. As far as I know, if you don't really work those Semi-Metalic pads, you just wear them out prematurely. Am I right?

 

[EdGs]

The OEX are supposed to be great pads. I used the Wagner Thermoquiets on mine (semi-metallic), with the stock rotors. No issues. Have also used Thermoquiets on several vehicles prior to now, also zero issues.

My OE pads still had a bit of life on them at 108k miles, but noticed a bit of squeak with windows down at drive-thru, etc. Not just recently, either.

Noise is gone now.

 

[tfeni52355]

Can you please provide some examples where tuned vehicles running Red Line D6 or AMSOIL MV ATL in their ZF8 transmissions caused them to slip? I'm putting together a detailed guide for RAM 1500 owners about the fluids thy should and shouldn't use.

The high end tuner guys are the ones reporting the slip issues,apparently input and output shaft speeds don't correlate once you start getting above the 600 horse or 600lb-ft mark with some of the after market fluids. To my knowledge none of the high end tuners are reconmending anything other then the factory fluid at this point in time.Neither Redline or Amsoil are seeing much use in the high horsepower cars yet,that might be due to the fact nobody wants to be the guinnea pig though.If somebody wants to sponsor my truck,and pay for a new 8 speed if the tranny does take a ****,i'll try out both fluids,but as it stands,if it's coming out of my pocket,i'll stick with the factory overpriced ZF fluid for now.

I’ll be starting a thread on my experience with Redline D6. I posted in the Synthetic Oil thread about the slipping that has started after 4K miles in my 16 Longhorn after changing the pan and switching to Redline D6 at 67K miles.

Not 100% sure but will probably go with Amsoil for the new fluid. All input appreciated. Stay tuned.


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[Burla]

I’ll be starting a thread on my experience with Redline D6. I posted in the Synthetic Oil thread about the slipping that has started after 4K miles in my 16 Longhorn after changing the pan and switching to Redline D6 at 67K miles.

Not 100% sure but will probably go with Amsoil for the new fluid. All input appreciated. Stay tuned.


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wildone (rich right) makes a decent argument to try a generic fluid instead.

sorry wo, I have a rich working for me right now and I forget rick or rich.

 

[Burla]

@tfeni52355 I'd make it a public poll thread with votes revealed. get accurate numbers of who ran redline in zf, and 16ramhemi justin should be tagged for it, he was another guy who had some slipping if I remember correctly.

 

[Wild one]

wildone (rich right) makes a decent argument to try a generic fluid instead.

sorry wo, I have a rich working for me right now and I forget rick or rich.

Rick but ******* also works to Mike,lol.

 

[Burla]

Rick but ******* also works to Mike,lol.

name asc time, help me out famous ricks?

ricky bobby

no I can't do that to you, how about rick hendrick, I always liked that guy.

 

[tfeni52355]

wildone (rich right) makes a decent argument to try a generic fluid instead.

sorry wo, I have a rich working for me right now and I forget rick or rich.

@ Burla
Would running a generic fluid and perhaps experiencing more slipping and rough shifts hurt my trans?

Just want to make sure I don’t do more damage than good.

Or perhaps I should just go back to the Mopar ZF fluid?


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[Burla]

@ Burla
Would running a generic fluid and perhaps experiencing more slipping and rough shifts hurt my trans?

Just want to make sure I don’t do more damage than good.

Or perhaps I should just go back to the Mopar ZF fluid?

Generic meaning any synthetic fluid posted in truth about zf fluid thread. Maxlife multi is anything but generic on stat sheet... So "if it were me" I'd try amsoil if my transmission ran hot as in over 200f, or I lived in snow area, I'd risk it for the biscuit seeing how we have no bad reviews of amsoil and I have heard a couple guys running it. Read that truth thread and see what you think. If it was an area that rarely sees 30f or lower and my truck ran at 195 or lower, I'd try maxlife multi use trans fluid. Since you can by both of these products for less then the same amount of zf fluid, I'd feel comfortable even if amsoil had some slippage, I could go straight to maxlife. I'd never pay zf fluid pricing, but if you wanted to anyhow, look at zf fluid/filter package pricing on amazon.


ZF Fluid

Viscosity at 100°C 5.6
Pour point -42°C

Maxlife multi-

Viscosity at 100°C 5.9
Pour Point -42c
Add a impressive VI at 163
Very decent fluid.

Redline d6-

Vis @ 100°C, CSt 6.3
Pour Point, °C -60
VI 163

Amsoil Multi

Vis @ 100, 6.3
Pour point, -65c
VI, 159

 

[tfeni52355]

Generic meaning any synthetic fluid posted in truth about zf fluid thread. Maxlife multi is anything but generic on stat sheet... So "if it were me" I'd try amsoil if my transmission ran hot as in over 200f, or I lived in snow area, I'd risk it for the biscuit seeing how we have no bad reviews of amsoil and I have heard a couple guys running it. Read that truth thread and see what you think. If it was an area that rarely sees 30f or lower and my truck ran at 195 or lower, I'd try maxlife multi use trans fluid. Since you can by both of these products for less then the same amount of zf fluid, I'd feel comfortable even if amsoil had some slippage, I could go straight to maxlife. I'd never pay zf fluid pricing, but if you wanted to anyhow, look at zf fluid/filter package pricing on amazon.


ZF Fluid

Viscosity at 100°C 5.6
Pour point -42°C

Maxlife multi-

Viscosity at 100°C 5.9
Pour Point -42c
Add a impressive VI at 163
Very decent fluid.

Redline d6-

Vis @ 100°C, CSt 6.3
Pour Point, °C -60
VI 163

Amsoil Multi

Vis @ 100, 6.3
Pour point, -65c
VI, 159

Had some time this morning and have been reading up on Maxlife. Also read the application guide which specifically lists ZF 8 & 9 speed trannys being able to use it.

Since my trans runs at 185-190 deg and I live in SC and it rarely gets into the teens at night I am leaning toward Maxlife multi. I can get it at Walmart. Several comments on the Valvoline website from Ram ZF 8 owners running it and having good success.

Just ordered the PPE pan this morning. Hopefully will be here this week so I can change this out next weekend.

Will get a thread going when I get back into town and have access to my PC.


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[Burla]

Solid plan!

 

[joesstripclub]

I’ll be starting a thread on my experience with Redline D6. I posted in the Synthetic Oil thread about the slipping that has started after 4K miles in my 16 Longhorn after changing the pan and switching to Redline D6 at 67K miles.

Not 100% sure but will probably go with Amsoil for the new fluid. All input appreciated. Stay tuned.


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I haven't kept up with the thread, but did you follow the zf fill procedures when you changed fluid? If not you might be a little low on fluid which would cause some slipping. My truck has ran great on D6 since I've changed a month or so ago.

 

[tfeni52355]

I haven't kept up with the thread, but did you follow the zf fill procedures when you changed fluid? If not you might be a little low on fluid which would cause some slipping. My truck has ran great on D6 since I've changed a month or so ago.

I did D6 change per the factory procedure. Truck shifted great for 4K miles after fluid and pan change. Just started acting up in last 1k miles. So I don’t think it is low. But I will check anyway to make sure .


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[Wild one]

I did D6 change per the factory procedure. Truck shifted great for 4K miles after fluid and pan change. Just started acting up in last 1k miles. So I don’t think it is low. But I will check anyway to make sure .


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[Rod Knock]

Wow, nice to see new posts!

I need some advice, and I know that some of you guys, especially @Burla, @Wild one, and @Hemi395, have messed with the thermostat and grille shutters.

So, here is what I am wondering:

I had some time to see how my truck is running after the Mishimoto 180F thermostat install, along with the grille shutter delete. Without towing, I don't get coolant temperatures beyond 185F. Oil goes up to 200F on a hot day, but most of the time, it's 180F to 190F. Towing 2500lbs, the coolant temp went to 190F, then to 197F, but it didn't break 200F. The oil temperature didn't go beyond 212F.

I am pleased with those temperatures. That being said, I am not so happy with the fuel mileage. At first, it seemed to improve. However, that was a shortsighted placebo. Towing 2500lbs, I was getting 12.8 MPG. I did the same today, and I got 12.1 MPG. Our gasoline in NC is garbage, but it can't be that bad.

Now I wonder if I should keep using 0W-40 or go back to a good 5W-20, like Mobil 1 EP 5W-20. I am wondering that 0W-40 might be too thick at the operating temperatures that I am experiencing. The entire point of going to 0W-40 in the first place was to mitigate the ridiculous 220F coolant and oil temperatures that I was experiencing, not to mention 240F~250F while towing. I no longer experience those temperatures.

Honestly, I don't care about the fuel mileage that much. However, I don't want to mess up the engine or possibly sludge it up. What do you guys think I should do?

 

[Wild one]

Wow, nice to see new posts!

I need some advice, and I know that some of you guys, especially @Burla, @Wild one, and @Hemi395, have messed with the thermostat and grille shutters.

So, here is what I am wondering:

I had some time to see how my truck is running after the Mishimoto 180F thermostat install, along with the grille shutter delete. Without towing, I don't get coolant temperatures beyond 185F. Oil goes up to 200F on a hot day, but most of the time, it's 180F to 190F. Towing 2500lbs, the coolant temp went to 190F, then to 197F, but it didn't break 200F. The oil temperature didn't go beyond 212F.

I am pleased with those temperatures. That being said, I am not so happy with the fuel mileage. At first, it seemed to improve. However, that was a shortsighted placebo. Towing 2500lbs, I was getting 12.8 MPG. I did the same today, and I got 12.1 MPG. Our gasoline in NC is garbage, but it can't be that bad.

Now I wonder if I should keep using 0W-40 or go back to a good 5W-20, like Mobil 1 EP 5W-20. I am wondering that 0W-40 might be too thick at the operating temperatures that I am experiencing. The entire point of going to 0W-40 in the first place was to mitigate the ridiculous 220F coolant and oil temperatures that I was experiencing, not to mention 240F~250F while towing. I no longer experience those temperatures.

Honestly, I don't care about the fuel mileage that much. However, I don't want to mess up the engine or possibly sludge it up. What do you guys think I should do?

You're not going to sludge it up with oil temps at 212 that's for sure,lol.There's not enough differance in milege to worry about,a differant head wind,harder on the pedal etc. will account for that little milege differance,even a ****tier tank of fuel can knock the hell out of your milege numbers.I'll let the oil guru's comment on the 0W-40,as i run nothing but 5W-30 Redline. I also run oil temps under 185 with a 160 T-stat and dual remote oil filters,and the inside of my engine is spotless as far as sludge goes.I'm not a fan of oil temps above 200 as i think it's a contributing factor to the cam/lifter issues.When we did my cam swap,my old cam and lifters were perfect,and they actually went into another truck that had cam/lifter issues,and we got the new owner switched over to 5W-30 Redline,and she's since put another 100,000 miles on my old cam and lifters.

 

[Rod Knock]

You're not going to sludge it up with oil temps at 212 that's for sure,lol.There's not enough differance in milege to worry about,a differant head wind,harder on the pedal etc. will account for that little milege differance,even a ****tier tank of fuel can knock the hell out of your milege numbers.I'll let the oil guru's comment on the 0W-40,as i run nothing but 5W-30 Redline. I also run oil temps under 185 with a 160 T-stat and dual remote oil filters,and the inside of my engine is spotless as far as sludge goes.I'm not a fan of oil temps above 200 as i think it's a contributing factor to the cam/lifter issues.When we did my cam swap,my old cam and lifters were perfect,and they actually went into another truck that had cam/lifter issues,and we got the new owner switched over to 5W-30 Redline,and she's since put another 100,000 miles on my old cam and lifters.

I guess you're right. Today I took did a roundtrip to the next town over (about 60 miles both ways), and with in-town driving, by the time I got home, it was 17.2 MPG. Also, considering that I run my truck up to 2000 rpm most of the day, 3000 when I really have to take off or am towing, a thicker can't really impact that much. Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 is about the same thickness as Redline 5W-30, but way less expensive. For $100 I can buy oil for three oil changes. I wonder how good it is though when compared to Redline, as there is no real-world testing. I might. be in the minority running this stuff in a 5.7 HEMI.

 

[joesstripclub]

I guess you're right. Today I took did a roundtrip to the next town over (about 60 miles both ways), and with in-town driving, by the time I got home, it was 17.2 MPG. Also, considering that I run my truck up to 2000 rpm most of the day, 3000 when I really have to take off or am towing, a thicker can't really impact that much. Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 is about the same thickness as Redline 5W-30, but way less expensive. For $100 I can buy oil for three oil changes. I wonder how good it is though when compared to Redline, as there is no real-world testing. I might. be in the minority running this stuff in a 5.7 HEMI.

If I recall correctly, the hemi cars and HD trucks call for 0w-40. Probably not a lot of people on the Ram forums running it since the truck calls for 5w-20. I ran half 5w-30 half 0w-40 in a change last year with no issues but I psyched myself out with that big of a viscosity change and have been just running 5w-30. I believe the viscosity over about 100 degrees is so similar that it really doesnt matter which of the three you are running.