Finally decided on an Oil for doing my own oil changes

[Dan Topp]

I have used amsoil for all my cars diesel merc vette Audi and now my 19 5.7 boosted ram 4500 mi.but I do also use an additive that powerstroke owners swear by.AR9100 8 oz for 7 qts

 

[rotts4u]

I am one of those that usually takes cars of my vehicles by the book (or better) with things like oil changes , tranny fluid, spark plugs etc etc. I bought a new Jeep Grand Cherokee in Jan 2016 with the 3.6 Pentastar engine and have used the Pennzoil full synthetic oil exclusively because it had the mopar spec on the label. This was regular Synthetic Pennzoil not PUP. I changed by the computer or maybe at 10% etc I never let it get to zero. At about 65K It started with a mild tick and by 75K I took it in and got new cams and lifters because they were worn out.

So I can't say for sure that it was Pennzoil related and the dealer didn't think so but happily replaced everything under warranty and he said many others had failed too. So based on that alone I am likely not going to use regular Pennzoil in my new 5.7 E Torque Hemi.

 

[sam darakjy]

I'm giving this a try!

 

[Lucy Girl]

Honestly, I use whatever big name conventional is convenient/on sale.

I'm at 263,000km without issue. I think people are putting way too much thought into this oil thing, but do whatever helps you sleep at night.

whatever the dealer puts in and I sleep perfect. Too many Important things going on to worry about **** howdy oil. Kids go to bed without any food to eat—Think about that then worry about 5-30 or 0-40. JMO

 

[Cmsharp]

Mobil one with fram ultra synthetic filter. Been doing that for the last 10 years on my ram and previous Dakota. I think most full synthetic’s are fine though.

 

[boblonben]

Use Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-20 ONLY. Even on my used vehicles. Bought a used Dakota two years back from a fella I know who used only Redline. Had to rebuild the motor at 78K, yolu should have seen the bearings, or not !! Wonder how they managed to score like they did?

 

[Ramtrucker12]

I have been doing my own oil changes since I was a teen. I started using Mobil1 about 8 years ago and use it exclusively in both of my vehicles. Can't think of any reason I would change!

 

[69GWC]

Use Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-20 ONLY. Even on my used vehicles. Bought a used Dakota two years back from a fella I know who used only Redline. Had to rebuild the motor at 78K, yolu should have seen the bearings, or not !! Wonder how they managed to score like they did?

It does make you wonder since Redline is a better oil.
Maybe to long between OCI or cheap filters that stopped working?

 

[huntergreen]

It does make you wonder since Redline is a better oil.
Maybe to long between OCI or cheap filters that stopped working?

So many factors could account for this failure, including something that happened during assembly long before the engine ever left the factory.

 

[Narg]

The oil companies and synthetic makers can toot their horns about who's better than the other all day long. The reality is that just change your oil in the recommended manner and you'll never have an oil related problem. No matter what oil or brand you use. Period. All this "well I've never had a problem with 'Brand-X' oil" doesn't mean diddly. There's a bazzillion miles on the road from most all cars with zero problems with all types of oils. Sure, oil problems occur... when you don't take proper care of your vehicle. But do the right thing, and you'll never have issues (only few cases I've heard are from poor engine design *cough* Toyota *cough*)

 

[Octane]

We had a 79 Plymouth with a slant 6 once that had 120k on it when purchased.Oil light at idle would come on.It already had a valve job.105k later and maybe, a total of 3 oil changes the engine ran good but ignition crapped out Sold car for 100 dollars and 1 year later the last I heard that car was still running good.Was it the Castrol GTX oil? I think not but that motor sure ran good.But this is why some are so loyal to an oil brand.We did change out the oil pump when we first got the car and oil light issue went away

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

The oil companies and synthetic makers can toot their horns about who's better than the other all day long. The reality is that just change your oil in the recommended manner and you'll never have an oil related problem. No matter what oil or brand you use. Period. All this "well I've never had a problem with 'Brand-X' oil" doesn't mean diddly. There's a bazzillion miles on the road from most all cars with zero problems with all types of oils. Sure, oil problems occur... when you don't take proper care of your vehicle. But do the right thing, and you'll never have issues (only few cases I've heard are from poor engine design *cough* Toyota *cough*)

Hmmm ... I guess that is why my 1993 Toyota Corolla has 340,204 miles on it because it has poor design right ?

I have always used first of all 91 gas and Pennzoil oil .... always changed the oil between 4k to 5k miles and haven't had a problem ... yes it has it's hiccups but there is definitely no poor engine design in this TOYOTA ...

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

By the way ... I just changed the oil and used Pennzoil Platinum high mileage 10w30 ... and changed the spark plugs ...

 

[Dan Topp]

It does make you wonder since Redline is a better oil.
Maybe to long between OCI or cheap filters that stopped working?

I called redline and was told 5-30 so I stuck with amsoil but I know redline is as good or better

 

[Dan Topp]

By the way ... I just changed the oil and used Pennzoil Platinum high mileage 10w30 ... and changed the spark plugs ...

Spark plugs for the hemi is definitely different

 

[Gr8bawana]

I say just use a major brand. Personally I don't use synthetic due to the price. I have never had a repair based on the type of oil I used. In fact I have owned over 30 vehicles and never had any repair based on oil supply or brand. I also say unless you are a petroleum engineer and have lab testing qualifications you should not be putting one oil over another oil. That's my 2 cent opinion.

I agree 100%.
I think these guys who try to tell us we should only use the best, most expensive synthetic oil would be very hard pressed to show us any actual proof or evidence of oil failure related engine failure from using plain old dino oil.

 

[Lucy Girl]

I wonder why Mobil 1 doesn't meet the required Chrysler MS 6395 spec

Made for Chevys. Say no more. lol

 

[Rug_Trucker]

Keep in mind that the Mobil1 oil typically has very little to no ZDDP. (Zinc Phosphate). I have a customer that bought a new 2006 Wrangler with the venerable 4.0L inline 6 that has graced so many vehicles of yesteryear. From the very first oil change, he did his own using Mobil1. At 60 thousand miles, the engine had a flat camshaft lobe. This was due to very low zinc present in the oil. Although the newer vehicles sport roller lifters, there is still high scuff friction on the piston skirts. You might consider researching this and maybe adding zinc with your oil changes. The caveate is that zinc shortens the life of the catalytic converters by a small margin. I've added zinc to my 4.7L Toyota since it was 100,000 miles. At 220K miles the converters had to be replaced. I'll take the trade off. Converters are way cheaper than an engine!

Rotella 10-30 semi synthetic if your VVT is okay with it.

 

[Rug_Trucker]

Use Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-20 ONLY. Even on my used vehicles. Bought a used Dakota two years back from a fella I know who used only Redline. Had to rebuild the motor at 78K, yolu should have seen the bearings, or not !! Wonder how they managed to score like they did?

What brand of filter was he using. Was it starving the engine?

 

[gixxer]

Doesn't matter how many of these oil threads I read I walk away unsure of which way to go. 3K miles and gotta make my mind up soon but want to thank all who provide their insight.

Any oil that meets your spec will be fine. I buy what is on sale at the local part store that is full synthetic and meets spec for the engine.

If you want the best oil, it's specific to the application. I live up North where it's minus 45 celcius so I run 0w20.

Warmer climates and longer intervals will benefit from an oil that has a lower noack (less likely to evaporate). You could also look at the viscosity within the accepatable range. For instance, a 5w20 will have a range of say 9.80 to 10.90 and you could buy an oil that is thicker or has a higher SUS viscosity rating.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru.../a-chemistry-term-paper-on-my-uoa#Post2224142

Check out the following site for some ****** oil sample testing and do some reading on BITOG. The best oil is specific to the application, and there is no best oil in general. That is why I recommend just buying a good synthetic oil that meets spec for your vehicle and is on sale. Get a synthetic filter too!

https://pqia.org/passenger-car-motor-oil/