Help!!

[Jason1982]

I have 2012 ram 1500 4x4 Laramie longhorn 5.7. Just hit 100,000 bought it at 79,000. Since I have done the following:
Borla exhaust (just muffler cut in)
Ingen cold air intake
spark plugs
Amsoil signature series every 10,000
Amsoil front and rear differential and torque converter all amsoil.
Front drilled slotted and painted rotors
Front Moog wheel hub assembly and oe brake dust shields.

Love working on my truck I’m looking for any suggestions that would increase ride or hp!! I’m also in need of a front sway bar and there is a solid or a hollow option I guess I’m leaning towards hollow. Any suggestions, ideas, helpful links would be greatly appreciated thanks RAM ON!!!!

 

[Curmudgeon]

Torque converter? Do you mean transfer case?
If it hasn't been done I was going to suggest transmission fluid.

 

[Burla]

You didnt mention gears, nothing you can do to that engine absent massive upgrades will give you more gettyup like moving to some stout gears, say 4.56. You would pay for that on top end of course, so if you like drive 85-90 mph on the freeway all the time, might not be prudent at all. But you will snap your neck in low gears and off the line. A couple things you can do with gears, upgrade VB and add a throttle enhancer. If you have 3.92's, you might opt for not replacing gears, not that it wouldnt be a huge jump but those are way better then 3.55's. It just depends on what you have now, if they are pig gears doing anything to the engine is like putting lipstick on a pig.

 

[NETim]

Check and clean throttle body if necessary. Check PCV valve and intake manifold screws while you have the engine cover off. Push down on fuses in TIPM to ensure they're all fully seated.

 

[Black-Wolf]

I have 2012 ram 1500 4x4 Laramie longhorn 5.7. Just hit 100,000 bought it at 79,000. Since I have done the following:
Borla exhaust (just muffler cut in)
Ingen cold air intake
spark plugs
Amsoil signature series every 10,000
Amsoil front and rear differential and torque converter all amsoil.
Front drilled slotted and painted rotors
Front Moog wheel hub assembly and oe brake dust shields.

Love working on my truck I’m looking for any suggestions that would increase ride or hp!! I’m also in need of a front sway bar and there is a solid or a hollow option I guess I’m leaning towards hollow. Any suggestions, ideas, helpful links would be greatly appreciated thanks RAM ON!!!!

Get some RIPP HEMI High Performance Coil Packs 2005-2023 - (You'll need 8) - I'm partial to them - MSD and TRQ are also supposedly pretty good. And how the heck did you paint your rotors? You do know that compromises braking performance - like SEVERELY...? I can only assume you mean you painted the slots, not the actual rotor metal that rubs against the pads to apply braking force... Plus, the paint will rub off mostly anyway as soon as you apply enough brake... You'd be better off getting Power Stop slotted/drilled rotors and pads too - rather than using that stock BS. Don't get racing rotors and pads though - get heavy duty ones. The racing ones are exactly for that - racing, and you'll go through those every four weeks... the abrade FAST to provide SERIOUS friction. Plus, many states they're illegal for street use - get the heavy duty, you'll stop on a dime anyway! You don't say what sort of spark plugs you've got, so I assume you upgraded to NGK Irridiums? If not, those are in my book the best that I've run so far... Someone else may have a better option. You can also change your headers to short headers - it provides more power because your exhaust gas doesn't have to travel as far to get to the pipes - but they are also louder. Lastly, you can do an engine rebuild and put in a 6.2 Cam and delete the MSD. That's way complicated, so DO YOUR RESEARCH (YouTube details this a LOT) and IF you decide you want to do that, buy another engine to do it on - again, do some research. Just google/duck-duck-go what you're looking to do.

 

[Jason1982]

You didnt mention gears, nothing you can do to that engine absent massive upgrades will give you more gettyup like moving to some stout gears, say 4.56. You would pay for that on top end of course, so if you like drive 85-90 mph on the freeway all the time, might not be prudent at all. But you will snap your neck in low gears and off the line. A couple things you can do with gears, upgrade VB and add a throttle enhancer. If you have 3.92's, you might opt for not replacing gears, not that it wouldnt be a huge jump but those are way better then 3.55's. It just depends on what you have now, if they are pig gears doing anything to the engine is like putting lipstick on a pig.

It’s just stock I’m looking for info so thank you and I like to have speed in the lower gears, I’m 70mph on highway. So your recommendation is 3.92?or 3.55?

 

[Burla]

It’s just stock I’m looking for info so thank you and I like to have speed in the lower gears, I’m 70mph on highway. So your recommendation is 3.92?or 3.55?

3.92's at a minimum, I have 3.55's they are dogs, if I had a brain I would move up. For me maybe 4.56. My friend has 3.92's, it has way more early guts then my 3.55.

 

[Black1500Ram]

Gonna want to drop that OCI by like half on a hemi. Personally wouldn’t do more than 5k.

Why do you need a front sway bar? From what I’ve read the fronts are fine on these trucks, it’s the rears that need stiffening.

One of the performance guys will chime in but basically 8spd trans swap, gears, long tubes and tune are I’m sure what will be recommended.

Good luck

 

[Wild one]

It’s just stock I’m looking for info so thank you and I like to have speed in the lower gears, I’m 70mph on highway. So your recommendation is 3.92?or 3.55?

As Black 1500 said,keep the gears you have and spend that money on swapping an 8 speed into it.The 8 speed swap will give you more torque multiplication then a set of 4.56 gears will.You'd need 5.50:1 gears in your diffs to match the torque multiplication you get with your existing 3.55's and an 8 speed swap,plus you'll still be able to cruise down the highway at 80+ mph all day long

 

[caulk04]

Gonna want to drop that OCI

Agreed. The 10k oil life 'monitor' on the dash is a joke. It does not account for differing driving styles, it's simply a 10k mile countdown.

My personal preference, if you care, is around 6k with a decent synthetic and filter.