Highest towing capacity for the 5.7

[nlambert182]

So not sure how you're calculating your gas mileage. I do see you have the Diesel, which is a whole other subject.

I am checking all my potential truck purchases on Fuelly.com (multiple owners report their combined gas mileage).

For the V8 6.6 Gas, it is showing 12.6 MPG
For the V8 6.6 Diesel, it is showing 14.1 MPG (current model)

For your 2018 Diesel (which shows 6.6 and not 6.7 like your profile), it is showing 13.3 MPG.

Compared to the V8 5.7, it is showing 17.4 for the current model. Which is also the best gas mileage compared to all half tons that are gas (not hybrid or diesel). This is also one of the reasons I started looking at the RAM 1500. So I trust those figures more than you claiming 18.5/23. Unless I'm missing something with your info?

So for a new truck, 1500 vs. 2500, the 1500 gets almost 5 MPG more (4.8). So that is significant and would definitely be a deal breaker for the 2500 in my situation. I could probably handle a little rougher ride if the numbers were a little closer.

I check it manually. My EVIC shows better economy than that.

I hand calculate my mileage and that's the real world number that I go by. Lots of folks with the 2500/6.7 combo have reported similar. The 3.42 gearing in my probably helps my mileage. My 2016 Ram didn't get nearly as good, at 16.5mpg empty. I can tell you that I have never owned a diesel that got 13.3 mpg.

A Cummins is a 6.7 diesel and has been since 2007. Prior to 2007 it was a 5.9. The gas engine in a 2500 is a 6.4L. Prior to 2014 it was a 5.7. There has never been a 6.6 Cummins or 6.6 Hemi. Further, there has never been a V8 cummins in a truck except for the 5.0 V8 Cummins that Nissan stuck in their Titan XD. a Cummins is an inline 6.

A 6.6 is a Duramax. If fuelly shows a 6.6 that in itself is enough to question the validity of the data provided.


Since fuel mileage seems to be your biggest factor I still stand by that a properly equipped 2500 will outperform similar 1500s in fuel mileage when empty and towing. I've gone to great lengths to do the math on these for myself and considering my real world numbers. There is a 3 mpg difference between my 1500 and my 2500. Once towing, that gap widens significantly.

 

[suicideking]

I check it manually. My EVIC shows better economy than that.

I hand calculate my mileage and that's the real world number that I go by. Lots of folks with the 2500/6.7 combo have reported similar. The 3.42 gearing in my probably helps my mileage. My 2016 Ram didn't get nearly as good, at 16.5mpg empty. I can tell you that I have never owned a diesel that got 13.3 mpg.

A Cummins is a 6.7 diesel and has been since 2007. Prior to 2007 it was a 5.9. The gas engine in a 2500 is a 6.4L. Prior to 2014 it was a 5.7. There has never been a 6.6 Cummins or 6.6 Hemi. Further, there has never been a V8 cummins in a truck except for the 5.0 V8 Cummins that Nissan stuck in their Titan XD. a Cummins is an inline 6.

A 6.6 is a Duramax. If fuelly shows a 6.6 that in itself is enough to question the validity of the data provided.


Since fuel mileage seems to be your biggest factor I still stand by that a properly equipped 2500 will outperform similar 1500s in fuel mileage when empty and towing. I've gone to great lengths to do the math on these for myself and considering my real world numbers. There is a 3 mpg difference between my 1500 and my 2500. Once towing, that gap widens significantly.

Looked again at their site and did find the 6.7 Diesel. For a 2018, Fuelly is showing 15.1 MPG average which is reported by 204 people. So yes, more believable.

I had looked at the Chevy 3.0 diesel 1500 which reports 23MPG. So if I was going to 'go diesel' I'd probably choose that. After looking into diesel prices in my area (which aren't good at a quick glance), my conclusion is that it's not worth it. Especially after discussing with my wife that I thought was 'pro diesel' and her being adamantly against the idea. Looks like, at best, I'd break even with fuel prices. So wouldn't be worth trying to find the best local spot to buy it and maybe end up using a fuel card.

I've also read that diesel is better for people driving longer distances. My commute is about 30 minutes each way, around 13 miles. Most longer family trips are done in my wife's Ford Expedition because of the third row seating to keep my kids (3 boys) from killing each other.

 

[suicideking]

If you're talking about what I said in the first page, I stand by it. We're talking 1500 rams, not 3/4 or 1 tons.

2 ram 1500 spec'd the same other than rear axle ratio will have the same payload capacity. If you're towing a trailer with about a 15% tongue load, you'll run out of payload capacity for the trailer tongue weight long before you hit the magic towing capacity listed by ram. So even though the .392 axle has a bigger towing capacity listed, it won't be much (if any) more in reality.

The .392 will take off from a stop quicker and be more fun to drive. The rest of the time when towing, the 8 speed transmission will make up the difference, maybe run a gear lower with the .321 than with the .392 at times to make up for it.

Back when we had 3 or 4 speed transmissions, axle ratio made all the difference...maybe even with a 6 speed. With an 8 or 10 speed these days, not so much.

The OP seems to be interested in getting better fuel mileage most of the time and will not be towing very much, so a 1500 with a .321 rear axle will do all he needs and get a little better fuel mileage when he isn't towing with it.

These dealers online don’t even really understand that payload and towing capacity differs between models and various options or why it even matters. They almost never post a pic of the door sticker and same with gearing option. It’s very irritating when searching for a truck. The nice thing about rams is you can google fca vin look up and put in the vin and get build details like gearing.

If you’re only pulling a jeep on a flat deck trailer I wouldn’t even worry about 3.92 vs 3.21 or the payload too much. I pulled my tractor on a flat equipment trailer weighing around 8k combined a few times with my 17 bighorn w/ 3.21s and it had no issues. I also pulled a 5500lb camper that was very well paired with that truck.

Appreciate this insight.

I've been looking at a lot of trucks in the last few weeks. The RAM seems to have the most selection of vehicles with different gear ratios. Though not very many with 3.92 unless I want the Rebel. Not a fan of the red interior accents of the Rebel. So I could find one, there are a few. It definitely would limit my selection.

Also might end up buying used since it looks like I can save $10K+ if I buy a truck that is 1 year old with less than 10K miles. So $1000+ / mile seems like a good deal. Buying used would limit my selection even more. So could end up getting one with 3.21 gears.

I'm also looking at other MFG's. Notable that Chevy and Toyota also do not have much selection of gears. Toyota does not even list the gear ratio on the sticker. After checking into this, found that there is no selection of gears, everything is 3.31 and they don't do special orders. Chevy seems similar: If I try to select lower gears, nothing returned in the search results.

Ford does have different options, though Ford is kind of a **** show to search for. Half a dozen different engine combos and each one has a usual gear set. Trying to find lower gears is a challenge, but possible.

 

[Hardracer]

If momma says nope....then thats pretty much gonna be the way it is.
If she ain't happy you and the boys aint gonna be happy(for a little while anyways).....lol
Back to the gasser decision now.

 

[TotallyHucked]

If you're going to be very specific when looking for used trucks, just be prepared to travel. I knew I wanted a much less commonly optioned truck, so I was prepared to either have a truck shipped or jump on a plane and drive one back. When searching on AutoTrader, there were only ~35 trucks nationwide that fit my criteria and maybe another ~30 if I was willing to not have one of the options or have something else I didn't want. I thankfully found my white truck in NC, about 4hrs from home.

Also, talking about the baby Duramax trucks, they're great. I have a few buddies with them and they all love them. Higher towing capacity than most half tons and can see up to 28 real world MPG on the hwy. They usually average 23-24.

 

[nlambert182]

Looked again at their site and did find the 6.7 Diesel. For a 2018, Fuelly is showing 15.1 MPG average which is reported by 204 people. So yes, more believable.

I had looked at the Chevy 3.0 diesel 1500 which reports 23MPG. So if I was going to 'go diesel' I'd probably choose that. After looking into diesel prices in my area (which aren't good at a quick glance), my conclusion is that it's not worth it. Especially after discussing with my wife that I thought was 'pro diesel' and her being adamantly against the idea. Looks like, at best, I'd break even with fuel prices. So wouldn't be worth trying to find the best local spot to buy it and maybe end up using a fuel card.

I've also read that diesel is better for people driving longer distances. My commute is about 30 minutes each way, around 13 miles. Most longer family trips are done in my wife's Ford Expedition because of the third row seating to keep my kids (3 boys) from killing each other.

Fuelly is still off but at least not as bad as it was before. If you want a real poll on mpg, go to the HD section here and start a poll. Easy as that.

The smaller ecodiesels aren't a bad option if fuel economy is the primary concern. They're going to get better economy than a gas engine in a lot of instances. Maybe not always, but quite often. When you do the math to decide between a diesel and a gasser, consider the operating cost over the course of a year. That's when you can determine if it's the right decision or not and when you can really judge the fuel price cost. Per fillup might be more, but filling up less often may offset that.

It isn't for everyone so don't misunderstand that I'm trying to sway you that way. I'm not... just putting the myth to bed that they're rougher riding and less fuel efficient. Not always true.



But, if you're looking for a gasser, that's certainly an option if you find one spec'd the way that you want it. Just know that the higher optioned truck you choose will net you less payload capacity. The Rebel is one of the lowest payload trucks because it is so heavily optioned. The best balance of options vs. payload (to me) is a Bighorn. My 18 1500 had everything that my Laramie has minus leather and a few nitnoid creature comforts. It still had the 8.4 Uconnect, captains chairs, center console, etc...

 

[suicideking]

If you're going to be very specific when looking for used trucks, just be prepared to travel. I knew I wanted a much less commonly optioned truck, so I was prepared to either have a truck shipped or jump on a plane and drive one back. When searching on AutoTrader, there were only ~35 trucks nationwide that fit my criteria and maybe another ~30 if I was willing to not have one of the options or have something else I didn't want. I thankfully found my white truck in NC, about 4hrs from home.

Also, talking about the baby Duramax trucks, they're great. I have a few buddies with them and they all love them. Higher towing capacity than most half tons and can see up to 28 real world MPG on the hwy. They usually average 23-24.

I don't mind traveling if needed. I live in S. California. I picked up my Jeep in Albuquerque, New Mexico. 750 miles, about 12 hours one way. Even more fun: It had manual trans when I got it (now converted to auto). I had never driven manual. So paid a friend to go with me and teach me manual on the way back. That was fun and a little nerve racking. Dropped him off about an hour from my house and was very nervous driving home in traffic by myself.

Just got a custom roll cage done. Ended up finding a fabricator an hour away, but was strongly considering one in Washington. When I told my wife, got cursed out. 'What the F* is wrong with you!'

Still might consider the Duramax. Do your buddies put on a decent amount of miles? I've read that driving mostly short distances isn't good for them. I'll just tell my wife that she needs to drive it to work at least one day per week. I'm sure that will go over well. That torque though! Damn that would be sweet.

 

[suicideking]

Fuelly is still off but at least not as bad as it was before. If you want a real poll on mpg, go to the HD section here and start a poll. Easy as that.

The smaller ecodiesels aren't a bad option if fuel economy is the primary concern. They're going to get better economy than a gas engine in a lot of instances. Maybe not always, but quite often. When you do the math to decide between a diesel and a gasser, consider the operating cost over the course of a year. That's when you can determine if it's the right decision or not and when you can really judge the fuel price cost. Per fillup might be more, but filling up less often may offset that.

It isn't for everyone so don't misunderstand that I'm trying to sway you that way. I'm not... just putting the myth to bed that they're rougher riding and less fuel efficient. Not always true.



But, if you're looking for a gasser, that's certainly an option if you find one spec'd the way that you want it. Just know that the higher optioned truck you choose will net you less payload capacity. The Rebel is one of the lowest payload trucks because it is so heavily optioned. The best balance of options vs. payload (to me) is a Bighorn. My 18 1500 had everything that my Laramie has minus leather and a few nitnoid creature comforts. It still had the 8.4 Uconnect, captains chairs, center console, etc...

Most of the ones I've been looking at are Bighorn. The Rebel also has 33" tires which are also probably not a good idea. Prefer cloth over leather as well.

 

[TotallyHucked]

I don't mind traveling if needed. I live in S. California. I picked up my Jeep in Albuquerque, New Mexico. 750 miles, about 12 hours one way. Even more fun: It had manual trans when I got it (now converted to auto). I had never driven manual. So paid a friend to go with me and teach me manual on the way back. That was fun and a little nerve racking. Dropped him off about an hour from my house and was very nervous driving home in traffic by myself.

Just got a custom roll cage done. Ended up finding a fabricator an hour away, but was strongly considering one in Washington. When I told my wife, got cursed out. 'What the F* is wrong with you!'

Still might consider the Duramax. Do your buddies put on a decent amount of miles? I've read that driving mostly short distances isn't good for them. I'll just tell my wife that she needs to drive it to work at least one day per week. I'm sure that will go over well. That torque though! Damn that would be sweet.

Yeah, driving short distances isn't good for any kind of diesel. I think I saw you say your commute is like 13mi, it's not terrible but I'd at least get the thing out on the highway and work it hard once a week or so.

 

[TotallyHucked]

Most of the ones I've been looking at are Bighorn. The Rebel also has 33" tires which are also probably not a good idea. Prefer cloth over leather as well.

Pretty much all of these half tons come with 33s. 275/60/20 is what mine came with, those are 33s

 

[Jas34]

My 2017 is a fairly recent purchase. In a perfect world I would have bought a baby duramax, or a 3/4 ton, but I'm too cheap. I found a 2017 ram 1500 that will work fine for me, had oil changes every 5k since new, and looked like it came off the showroom floor. Those kind of things are way more important to me.

Ours has the .321 rear and I use it for towing a 6k+ travel trailer. Seems to work fine so far. The newer ones seem to have a bigger payload but even mine with its wimpy 1300 lbs payload is ok for the job. Just gotta watch the tongue weight and set up the weight distribution hitch properly.

 

[suicideking]

Pretty much all of these half tons come with 33s. 275/60/20 is what mine came with, those are 33s

Most of the RAM are 32", looking mostly Bighorn. The Rebel and Warlock are 33". The Chevy/GMC 1500 are 33".

20" are mostly 275/55/20
18" are mostly 275/65/18

I'd prefer 33", but figure the 32" are better for towing and gas mileage.

 

[DeckArtist]

If you're talking about what I said in the first page, I stand by it. We're talking 1500 rams, not 3/4 or 1 tons.

2 ram 1500 spec'd the same other than rear axle ratio will have the same payload capacity. If you're towing a trailer with about a 15% tongue load, you'll run out of payload capacity for the trailer tongue weight long before you hit the magic towing capacity listed by ram. So even though the .392 axle has a bigger towing capacity listed, it won't be much (if any) more in reality.

The .392 will take off from a stop quicker and be more fun to drive. The rest of the time when towing, the 8 speed transmission will make up the difference, maybe run a gear lower with the .321 than with the .392 at times to make up for it.

Back when we had 3 or 4 speed transmissions, axle ratio made all the difference...maybe even with a 6 speed. With an 8 or 10 speed these days, not so much.

The OP seems to be interested in getting better fuel mileage most of the time and will not be towing very much, so a 1500 with a .321 rear axle will do all he needs and get a little better fuel mileage when he isn't towing with it.

On every single model of Ram otherwise equally equipped, the 3.92 trucks towing number versus the 3.21 trucks towing number is substantially different. Fact. Yes there are other factors [tow equipment, wheelbase, GVWR, etc.] but the higher numerical rear axles give you the higher rating every time. I know the models that have the 3.92 and they are ALL 1500s. Nothing up the line has that same ratio, they all have 4.10 for their top tier axle ratio.

 

[suicideking]

I would like the 3.92 if I can find it. Just seems like slim pickings when I try to select the 3.92 with either the night package, or color matched bumper package. Probably getting the granite crystal, and think that looks best with the black. So those combos just aren't as easy to find.

Might consider just custom ordering one since I'm planning to buy in about 6 - 12 months. Though I've never custom ordered, so figure I probably wouldn't get as good of a deal compared to buying one on a lot.

 

[Jas34]

On every single model of Ram otherwise equally equipped, the 3.92 trucks towing number versus the 3.21 trucks towing number is substantially different. Fact. Yes there are other factors [tow equipment, wheelbase, GVWR, etc.] but the higher numerical rear axles give you the higher rating every time. I know the models that have the 3.92 and they are ALL 1500s. Nothing up the line has that same ratio, they all have 4.10 for their top tier axle ratio.

I never said the .392 wasn't rated higher, but I think you may have misunderstood my point. Look at the specs in this chart below for a 2023 classic 4wd crew cab 5'7" box, which is a pretty popular combination.

Both the .392 and the .321 trucks have the same cargo capacity, which is 1560 lbs. Subtract 300 lbs for driver and 1 light passenger, maybe 100 lbs for a tonneau cover and a few light tools and you're down to 1160 lbs for the trailer tongue. Note there's no room for anything else in the truck or any upgrades that weigh anything the way I'm figuring this.

So how big a trailer can you tow? Max towing capacity for the .321 axle is listed at 8000 lbs and for the .392 it is 10180. But you're limited by the payload. If you figure a 15% tongue load, which is pretty common with travel trailers, the heaviest trailer you could tow with either truck is 7733 lbs. Of course, if those skinny passengers go on a diet, you don't put a bed cover on, and you have a trailer you can get the tongue weight down closer to 10% without it swaying, then you can tow more...maybe even enough more that the .392 axle actually gives you more over the .321, but not with the stuff I'm used to towing.

https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilder/service/Image?imageId=MtQrP%2FFqLY5r%2Fest8MtGjGgHzAHGUTU0WB3rWuqSY7YmQ2vEhuBWBCPJWcOaypPZ%0A

 

[tron67j]

Particularly with 1500s we have to understand the maximum trailer weight rating is a worthless number. For example, a chart for the 2022 1500 shows a maximum trailer rating of 12,500 and a maximum payload of 1,800 (approximate for ease of math). At a generally accepted 15% tongue weight and with no one and nothing in the truck, the PC allows a maximum trailer of 12,000 pounds. Can the tongue weight be reduced to meet the 12,5k, yes. Will anyone ever get a trailer exactly balanced to not wag the rig, very doubtful and remember this is no one in the truck and no hitch. Subtract 500 pounds PC due to passengers and gear like hitch, now your maximum trailer is under 8,700.

So, the argument that 3.92 is better than 3.21 to achieve maximum towing must be caveated with the statement that it is only to minimize gear hunting during the drive and not to meet an unachievable use as offered in a worthless maximum trailer rating in some chart. If buying a truck and one of the critical factors is maximum trailer rating then the 1500 shouldn't even be a consideration.

And once someone has posted about getting to trailer max, probably going to start their next thread with "I get lousy mileage with my 1500 with 3.92s, what does everyone think about cold air intake?".

 

[DeckArtist]

2020 RAM 1500 Towing Capacity & Payload (with Charts)

The 2020 RAM 1500 Towing Capacity ranges between 6,390 - 12,750 lbs. (2,898 - 5,783 kg) and maximum payload capacity of 2,300 lbs. This can vary depending on

towengine.com

Taken from another forum...this is the correct way to look at this...

"This is really simple. The issue comes that every truck is going to have different payload and max tow numbers.

Payload is GVWR minus Base weight.

Max tow...if you have more than 300 lbs of passenger. If you plan to haul anything else...even just a flashlight. It will never be achieved. It is a silly number that needs not even be thought of.

GCWR determines what the max is you can tow.

Fortunately all Rebels have 3.92. So we only need to discuss one GCWR.

GVWR will be 7100. GCWR will be 17000.

Now, I know the Ecodiesel gets 7200 for 2020. And if you have 2wd it will be 6900.

So. Now if you have your truck, look at the payload on the door.

As @2019REBEL said his is 1478.

So we will use his truck.

7100 minus 1478 is a base weight of 5622.

So his truck weighs 5622 pounds with no passengers or cargo and this is with a full tank of gas.

So, 17000 minus 5622 is 11378.

11378 is the total you can haul/tow. The truck has to stay under 7100 lbs with passengers, cargo, hitch, and tongue weight.

With the 11378 number...your max tow then becomes how little you load the truck.

Make sense. Very easy. 2 numbers are a constant...GCWR 17000 and GVWR 7100.

Payload and tow rating change by the individual.

CAT scale trip. Load your truck and head here. That will give you your specific weight. Then stay under 17000 with trailer and tongue weights. Very easy.

Each truck is different. Each owner/family is different.

 

[suicideking]

2020 RAM 1500 Towing Capacity & Payload (with Charts)

The 2020 RAM 1500 Towing Capacity ranges between 6,390 - 12,750 lbs. (2,898 - 5,783 kg) and maximum payload capacity of 2,300 lbs. This can vary depending on

towengine.com

Taken from another forum...this is the correct way to look at this...

"This is really simple. The issue comes that every truck is going to have different payload and max tow numbers.

Payload is GVWR minus Base weight.

Max tow...if you have more than 300 lbs of passenger. If you plan to haul anything else...even just a flashlight. It will never be achieved. It is a silly number that needs not even be thought of.

GCWR determines what the max is you can tow.

Fortunately all Rebels have 3.92. So we only need to discuss one GCWR.

GVWR will be 7100. GCWR will be 17000.

Now, I know the Ecodiesel gets 7200 for 2020. And if you have 2wd it will be 6900.

So. Now if you have your truck, look at the payload on the door.

As @2019REBEL said his is 1478.

So we will use his truck.

7100 minus 1478 is a base weight of 5622.

So his truck weighs 5622 pounds with no passengers or cargo and this is with a full tank of gas.

So, 17000 minus 5622 is 11378.

11378 is the total you can haul/tow. The truck has to stay under 7100 lbs with passengers, cargo, hitch, and tongue weight.

With the 11378 number...your max tow then becomes how little you load the truck.

Make sense. Very easy. 2 numbers are a constant...GCWR 17000 and GVWR 7100.

Payload and tow rating change by the individual.

CAT scale trip. Load your truck and head here. That will give you your specific weight. Then stay under 17000 with trailer and tongue weights. Very easy.

Each truck is different. Each owner/family is different.

Thanks for this info. I'll save it to refer to the actual numbers. I need to load up my Jeep and weigh it, then figure out what the average trailer weight is.

 

[suicideking]

Looking at some of the window stickers:
Some have just the Class IV hitch and trailer brake controller. I've also seen some that just have the class IV hitch and no TBC. Looks like the TBC is a $295 option, not sure if it can be added to a truck that doesn't have it?

Others have the tow package which lists:
Trailer–Tow Group
Reverse Steering Control
Trailer Tire Pressure Monitoring System
Trailer Brake–Controller
Power Trailer–Tow Mirrors with Manual Fold–Away

Those that have the tow package, would you say any of those are 'must have' items? I guess reverse steering control would be nice, but don't really care about tire pressure monitoring.

 

[TotallyHucked]

The brake controller being built in is nice because it looks like it belongs rather than having that aftermarket box hanging down below the steering wheel like every truck in the past had to have. This is a must have IMO.

I didn't want the tow mirrors cuz they're entirely too big to look right on a half ton truck IMO. Unless it's lifted with bigger wheels and tires.

I don't know what the reverse steering control is, that must be a 5th gen thing.

The trailer tire pressure monitoring system could be a good thing, that way you'd know a tire is getting low before it's blown out and tearing up the side of your trailer. But I've got ~100k miles of towing under my below without any system like that with no issues. I just pay attention to the tires at each stop.