How can I get more power, as in horsepower or torque, out of a 4.7 magnum

[Lord_Brick]

It was built as an economical engine that produces less power(cheaper to own),....hence the predicament your in now of wanting more.....myself,I wouldn't bother and go get a cheap 5.7 hemi truck to beat on and take your chances...this will be cheaper in the long run if you pursue your current thoughts.....(like others have said)to get to an equal level of the 5.7...
By the way..I think your pipe dreaming and not going to do anything anyway.
My .02 worth.

lol, I think you can have your 2 cents back

 

[ElectricBill]

Seems lately there have been a small group of posts proposing bizarre ideas for projects. Either there’s something in the air, or perhaps it’s one person creating fake accounts to troll.

If this is legit, somebody let me know the correct size of leaf blower for a 6.4 and I’ll be headed for the track.

I think first you'll be heading to Home Depot for the leaf blower!
LOL

 

[ElectricBill]

Is there a way someone could use a compositor or a relay to get 18v, theoretically

There's a bit more to adding a forced induction system such as a leaf blower. My first concern would be the fact that the motor in the blower is probably not rated as a "continuous duty motor" . Occasionally using it to blow leaves out of the driveway is one thing. The other item would be the injection tuning for the extra air to have correct air/fuel ratio. Normally the fuel delivery is done solely by how much air is flowing by the mass airflow sensor. This is why you can't "flood" out an engine by suddenly stomping on the gas at low RPM. Unlike a downdraft carburetor that can dump loads of raw gas without enough air and ends up choking on it and dies. Now with that being said, can the injection system deliver enough fuel for the amount of air you'll be feeding it? You may need some high flow rate injectors. You'll need a good tuner that allows you to make adjustments to the injection rates. Also this may be an option, if they have a tuner that allows you to custom program different stages you could leave one stock and stage two for example would be when you turn on the blower. This would make it last longer, then when you need the extra boost you turn on the blower and switch to stage two program. With that type of operation you could just as well use the rechargeable battery the blower came with and just recharge it when needed. You can wire in parallel two or three packs to get more run time. That's where you connect the positives together from each battery and the negatives from each together then take your power from the positives and the negatives you tied together. This will double or triple your total capacity but the voltage will stay at 18 volts. DC to DC conversion at the amount of current to run a blower motor may get expensive and complicated. One other way, however, not very efficient, would be to use an inverter circuit boosting the voltage into AC then rectifying it back into DC with an 18 volt regulator. Then the other item would be a variable speed device maybe working with the throttle position. Which could be a variable resistor (potentiometer) attached to the gas pedal mechanism. Or if you can make use of the electronic throttle systems they use with no mechanical connection to the engine. Those might be optical shaft encoders to determine how far the pedal is depressed. Then it can get a bit complicated converting pulses to a variable speed control circuit of the type used in cordless power tools. Which are high current MOSFET. Basically high power switching transistors. You also need to keep in mind that there's a possibility of destroying an engine beyond recognition! That's why exhaust driven turbo chargers have waste gates to vent off excessive boost pressure, like after hauling ass and the turbo is spooled up at who knows what RPM and you let off on the gas. That turbo is still pumping a massive amount of boost air that you don't need going to the engine. You can end up with very violent backfiring in the intake system. Sometimes leads to catastrophic damage, like a turbo blowing apart into shrapnel.

 

[ElectricBill]

TBH I wanted to find ideas not a bunch of Hemi fanboys cause I could go get a 5.9 magnum or the 8L v10 and just have more power, I don't wanna start my truck and hear ticking.

LOL That's what I was thinking! We got a bunch of 4.7 haters in the thread! The anti-4.7 club! The Hemi Fanboys! I've got a couple Dodge Dakotas and a Jeep Grand Cherokee, all three have 4.7s' in them. I love them, never had issues with them. I always run full synthetic oil and that's a very important deal with the 4.7. The cam towers that are directly above the two exhaust ports like all V-8's is the hottest area of the cylinder head. This causes the oil to get cooked in the oil galley plugging up oil passage to the cam bearing resulting in cam seizing and snapping in half. Synthetic oil doesn't do this and cause sludge build up.
Yes, I was disappointed in not hearing anything good about the 4.7. I was hoping some company like Dart made some badass competition cylinder heads and Probe Pistons made some custom pistons. Crower made a hot bump stick for the 4.7. Unfortunately we didn't hear anything of sorts here! I still have faith we need to find a forum without the fanboys! LOL

 

[ElectricBill]

Not so much fanboys just actual mechanics telling you that not much can be done to a 4.7. However sucks for you because the 4.7s tick aswell I rebuild them all the time if yours doesnt now it will best of luck.

Yep, mine ticks away when I first start it up. Goes away pretty much in a few minutes when the head, exhaust manifold and gasket expand. That's from the typical broken exhaust stud problem due to dissimilar metals expansion rates. At least they corrected the dropping of valve seats!
I can live with some exhaust ticking. LOL

 

[huntergreen]

To the few telling me to grow up one, I said I didn't want a hemi and I got the advice I was looking for so thanks for that, but I think yall need to calm down.

First, the 4.7 was a great engine. Bought an 04 Jeep grand Cherokee limited new for the wife and it went 235000 miles before we traded it in. Never an issue with the engine. The last couple years the 4.7 was in use, it was reworked and had more HP. If you can find one of those engines in reasonable shape and are able to transplant into your truck, you might get the extra power you’re looking for.

 

[Lord_Brick]

There's a bit more to adding a forced induction system such as a leaf blower. My first concern would be the fact that the motor in the blower is probably not rated as a "continuous duty motor" . Occasionally using it to blow leaves out of the driveway is one thing. The other item would be the injection tuning for the extra air to have correct air/fuel ratio. Normally the fuel delivery is done solely by how much air is flowing by the mass airflow sensor. This is why you can't "flood" out an engine by suddenly stomping on the gas at low RPM. Unlike a downdraft carburetor that can dump loads of raw gas without enough air and ends up choking on it and dies. Now with that being said, can the injection system deliver enough fuel for the amount of air you'll be feeding it? You may need some high flow rate injectors. You'll need a good tuner that allows you to make adjustments to the injection rates. Also this may be an option, if they have a tuner that allows you to custom program different stages you could leave one stock and stage two for example would be when you turn on the blower. This would make it last longer, then when you need the extra boost you turn on the blower and switch to stage two program. With that type of operation you could just as well use the rechargeable battery the blower came with and just recharge it when needed. You can wire in parallel two or three packs to get more run time. That's where you connect the positives together from each battery and the negatives from each together then take your power from the positives and the negatives you tied together. This will double or triple your total capacity but the voltage will stay at 18 volts. DC to DC conversion at the amount of current to run a blower motor may get expensive and complicated. One other way, however, not very efficient, would be to use an inverter circuit boosting the voltage into AC then rectifying it back into DC with an 18 volt regulator. Then the other item would be a variable speed device maybe working with the throttle position. Which could be a variable resistor (potentiometer) attached to the gas pedal mechanism. Or if you can make use of the electronic throttle systems they use with no mechanical connection to the engine. Those might be optical shaft encoders to determine how far the pedal is depressed. Then it can get a bit complicated converting pulses to a variable speed control circuit of the type used in cordless power tools. Which are high current MOSFET. Basically high power switching transistors. You also need to keep in mind that there's a possibility of destroying an engine beyond recognition! That's why exhaust driven turbo chargers have waste gates to vent off excessive boost pressure, like after hauling ass and the turbo is spooled up at who knows what RPM and you let off on the gas. That turbo is still pumping a massive amount of boost air that you don't need going to the engine. You can end up with very violent backfiring in the intake system. Sometimes leads to catastrophic damage, like a turbo blowing apart into shrapnel.

calm down, buddy. I just thought id throw and idea out there. also you can flood an engine my stomping on it at low rpm, its actually very possible.

 

[Sherman Bird]

calm down, buddy. I just thought id throw and idea out there. also you can flood an engine my stomping on it at low rpm, its actually very possible.

This whole thread reminds me of the 3 blind men and the elephant!