I need help with this...

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Birddog

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This subject started on the thread titled "Whats biggest thing you've towed with your 1500?" and without hijacking the thread I figured I'd reach out the all the members. I apologize for the long post in advance and thanks for reading this. Maybe the answers I find will help someone else looking to tow big weight.

I purchased a HUGE, to say the least, travel trailer and inexperienced at this "big tow" stuff I figured that I just had to worry about how much my max tow-able weight was. Obviously, I was wrong (and my wife isn't too happy about it to say the least):Stupid Me: so I'm trying to solve the problem of towing safely.

I'm trying not to HAVE to buy a 2500 if I don't need one($$$$). At least not yet because I know I will eventually need one. I have a quad cab 4X2 with 3.92 gears so my max tow for a 2012 is 10,250 and my pay load max is right around 1600.

My trailer is 9,100 dry (13K max) & tongue weight is 1385 (dry) and inside the truck is my wife and I and 3 Doberman's so I think I'm right around 580 there. My strong point isn't math but I'm thinking I'm near 400 lbs over pay load. I already have a 1,200 lb Husky weight distribution hitch and a right side only sway bar. Although I don't have it yet, I plan on getting the left side sway as well even if I drive a 2500.

I looked into Airlift Company airbags that fit right into the spring coils. On the website, the company writes... "Providing up to 1,000 lbs. of load-leveling capacity" but in the other thread someone posted that it doesn't anything to increase payload. This is the product I'm thinking about

Air Lift 1000 Air Bags for Coil Spring SUVs and Vans | Air Lift Company
(If I'm not supposed to post that link I'll remove it, I'm not trying to disrespect any of our fine vendors here)

So If that doesn't do anything for payload, why is it sold? I understand it will level the truck but I can't find anything that says it will actually apply more weight transfer to the front where I need to steer. I spoke to someone that told me people that use those bags with real heavy loads pop them but I don't know if my load is really quite that heavy. I appreciate all your thoughts on this. I've already taken the trailer camping about 70 miles away. I kept it right around 55-60mph on the highway and it felt okay unless I got cross wind or an 18 wheeler passed me.

My questions are;

1) How unsafe is this to tow with the second sway bar if I get airbags?

2) am I wasting my money on airbags, put it toward the 2500?

3) Will the airbags will improve safety?
 
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msorbara10

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Not sure about towing capacity. But I am sure the coil spring arent helping much and if your going to be towing this a few times a year I would put money twards a 2500. You can get a nice used one thats not old and still low miles that will get the job done that way you can save money there also. From what I can tell it looks like that trailer is making your truck sit a little low.

If you are planning on towing this a decent amount of times and dont have the money for the 2500 right now I would invest in the airbags only because it will be hurting your truck more if you let it drag like that IMO.

Sorry I cant give you better facts just trying to give you my best imput
 

Rotzilla

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The airlifts can be had for around $100, so there is not much of a investment there. My understanding is they will not increase payload, but will take the sag out of the rear and help prevent porpoising during travel.

You have the right gears for the job, I think your biggest issue is going to be breaking.

I recently purchased a XLR 27hfs, with a weight distribution/and anti sway hitch thats rated at 6200lbs dry, because of my 3:55 gears I'm limited to 8500lbs. Being that our suspensions are relatively the same and the only difference being the gear ratio I would be uncomfortable with your setup. I have plenty of power to get it moving, but stopping has been Harry a couple of times.

I am by no means an expert, and am only comparing my short experience towing my toyhauler to what I can only imagine you are dealing with.
I did not do the numbers myself, but remember if you are over and something unfortunate happens while towing you could be endagering your loved ones as well as others, not to mention being fined if you run into a trooper who checks your weight.

In conclusion; Imho RAM 2500
 

Stangshcky12

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At least you know your numbers!
You could lighten up your tongue weight to about 11-12% of the trailer weight Instead of 15% and still be safe

It sounds to me like stepping up to a 2500 might be your best option. Even though it's just you, your wife and dogs in sure you can fill the trailer with 1100 lbs quickly!
 

audio1der

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1) How unsafe is this to tow with the second sway bar if I get airbags?
The second friction anti-sway bar won't change much in the way of help but can't hurt anything either. Friction swaybars are limited in what they can do.

2) am I wasting my money on airbags, put it toward the 2500?
As above, airlift 1000's can be had for as cheap as $79 so if you're going to try the 1500 its well worth the cost & effort.

3) Will the airbags will improve safety?
Safety? Not sure how they could do that. They will reduce squat & sway and smooth out the ride and if those help safety then yes. But they don't add any capacity or safety margin to your truck's capacities.

Question- how hard is your WD hitch hitched up? You might be able to improve your tounge weight by shortnening the WD chains a link, or packing some heavy gear (beer) in the rear of the trailer.
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-determine-trailer-tongue-weight.aspx
I would ensure your tires are inflated to their max and leave LOTS of room for stopping. RV dealers call almost anything "1/2 ton towable" these days, then guys like you & I get talked into buying a little more than the truck should handle. I guess our safety in towing long enough to stay alive and becoming a repeat customer isn't their priority.
 
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WhiteExpress

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It kind of depends where you're going to be going with this setup too.
A trailer that large coming down some of the mountain grades here in the Rockys, and it'll be the tail waggin the dog, BIGTIME.

IMO, a trailer that big needs more truck infront of it.
 
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Birddog

Birddog

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audio1der: thanks for the link to the tongue scale. I didn't even know those exsisted.

WhiteExpress: I know I need a 2500 at this point, and especially after watching YouTube videos of camper crashes. Makes my stomach turn because I know what that sway feels like and I didn't even flip. I will only be traveling within an hour or two from home until I get a heavier truck. Fortunately, Florida is pretty flat as long as I don't try and travel north of Orlando. There isn't too much wind in the summer months so I think as long as I keep speed down I should be okay.

Stangshcky12: When I drove the camper from the lot the mechanic had the hitch set with two chain links hanging. I felt a lot more sway that way. On the way back from camping I was able to get one side to three links and with the help of a friend I was able to lift the bar enough to get the third link on. I know I'm not going to get the chain any higher but that did improve the ride, swag and sag. That was a great idea you had though.

Rotzilla: Our trucks are more capable than I originally thought. When I first got on the road with the camper I accelerated onto a highway exit uphill. I took it easy but I had plenty of petal to spare and the truck pulled like a mule! We definately have plenty of power! My concern is the weight and stopping.

At this point I have heard enough to not even want to move the camper again unless I get a 2500. I started shopping around and I realize I am going to have to give up bells and whistles in the truck to get the larger truck in order to keep the payments down or get a much older truck. I know the end of the motor year is coming so maybe I will wait and see what kind of deals come out. Thanks to all of you who posted.
 

audio1der

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Depending on how you use the truck regularly, have you considered chaning the trailer instead?
A Bullet/Cougar would have most of the same features with nearly as nice of trim, and be measurably lighter for the same length.
Just a thought. Even the new Passport Elites are really nice, with a focus on light weight.
 

Chewy

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IMO a 2500 should be used. I would NEVER tow above the stated limit of the vehicle even though it's possible.

That being said, I'd put slotted brake rotors on up front with a good HAWK or EBC HD truck pad to start with. Putting better pads on the rear wouldn't hurt either. What you want is a shortened stopping distance. Also, I'd replace all gear lube with a quality synthetic like Redline or Amsoil. If it doesn't have a transmission cooler, GET ONE! You'll eat that trans in NO time. I'd even recommend an oil cooler.

Still would recommend a 2500
 

WhiteExpress

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Here's an interesting bit. On my License it clearly states: Vehicle less than 26,001 GVRW. May not tow > lbs than vehicle excpet with equalizer hitch or 5th wheel.

I know almost all large trailers come with equilizers... just thought it was interesting.
 

tux

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Birddog; My vote is 2500D
 
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Birddog

Birddog

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Depending on how you use the truck regularly, have you considered chaning the trailer instead?
A Bullet/Cougar would have most of the same features with nearly as nice of trim, and be measurably lighter for the same length.
Just a thought. Even the new Passport Elites are really nice, with a focus on light weight.

The reason mine is so heavy is that it's a toy hauler so it's a reinforced trailer under the trim. It will hold 2 Harley's with no problem. The back room doubles as a bedroom with 2 queen beds. One of them is a picnic table. I thought of switching trailers but to be honest it took me a long time to fine this particular configuration so I'm keeping it.
On that note, I went 2500 shopping today. I didn't come home with anything. I'm stumped with keeping the price down but getting the specs I need. The payload / tow specs between the 2012 & 2013 are different. My head is spinning already. I wish price were no object because things would be so much easier. My biggest problem is I've only had my truck one year so there is no equity.

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HLram

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Since a 2500 isn't materializing for you, maybe give the $100 airbags a chance. I bet that'll make a big difference in the stance of your truck with the camper on it and that alone may make it pull better. Also what they said earlier about weight relocation inside the trailer. U can move a lot of stuff around inside and make a noticeable difference in tongue weight I bet. My 27' Jayco is much, much lighter than yours and my truck still doesn't really like it with the 3.55s I have. Good luck, give the airbags a shot. $100 is a lot better than $30,000 for an newer used 2500.
 
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Birddog

Birddog

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I'm going to look at another truck tommorow. Used is what I'm looking at but everytime I look at specs it seems like the older the truck the less the payload. Apparently my current 2012 has the multi link suspension which makes it ride like a car but doesn't support as much weight. I'm also looking at 3500's but I don't want the insurance to get out of hand either. A friend of mine used to have a 3500 van that he got becuase he has 4 kids and he wanted the extra seats. His insurance company was charging him commercial rates. I'll keep you all posted.
 

DannyMK2

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I'm going to look at another truck tommorow. Used is what I'm looking at but everytime I look at specs it seems like the older the truck the less the payload. Apparently my current 2012 has the multi link suspension which makes it ride like a car but doesn't support as much weight. I'm also looking at 3500's but I don't want the insurance to get out of hand either. A friend of mine used to have a 3500 van that he got becuase he has 4 kids and he wanted the extra seats. His insurance company was charging him commercial rates. I'll keep you all posted.

your insurance shouldnt change much between a 1500, as long as you dont have commercial plates or register it as a commercial vehicle. your insurance company cant charge you commercial rates if its not a commercial vehicle.

i dont think i saw this mentioned but you can throw all the parts you want at your truck, be it air bags, equalizing hitch, you could even put a full 2500 suspension on the truck and while it would help with towing, it still wouldnt change the tow ratings or payload capacity. your 1500 has more then enough power and probably stops good with the trailer, but at the end of the day when you tip the scales, none of that matters if your weight is over what the sticker on your door says. your going to need a bigger truck for that trailer, but it seems like you've come to that conclusion.
 

HonuTime

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I've been struggling with this myself. My boat & trailer dry weigh 7300lbs, with some fuel (it's never full unless I'm on the water burning it) and gear I guess around 8000lbs total. This is about the "limit" I feel that a 1500 can tow considering that extra 1200lbs is for payload + some passengers.

I'd love to get into a 2500 Cummins but considering my 1500 is less than a year old, the cost to get into a 2500 is a large amount of negative equity. They just aren't giving jack for a 1500 in trade right now in my area, I've called multiple dealers.

The 2013 2500 has insane tow maximums now with 17000 ratings while a 2012 is around 12000 to 13000 depending on gears.
 

audio1der

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Birddog- do you mostly use the truck to tow? No kids? 2500 should work. I wish I had those options.
 

Chewy

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A 1 ton will ride like a TANK, so keep that in mind. It gets old VERY quickly! I'd stay with 2010 and up RAM, but that's just because I think the interiors on the 2010+ 2500's is superior to the older ones. JMO of course.
 
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Birddog

Birddog

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Birddog- do you mostly use the truck to tow? No kids? 2500 should work. I wish I had those options.

That's the biggest job I will give it. It's not a daily driver even though I love to jump in the Ram. Other than the wife I have three dogs. No kids. I drove the CD and it feels heavy but I like the way it rides. A lot better than a ford, that's for sure.

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