New to forum's please help bleed screw

[bpolly2004]

Hi. New member and first post.

2009 ram with 5.7 hemi. I tried to flush heater core today bc I get 73 degree air thru my drivers side and 102 degree air thru passenger side. This truck is new to me. Bought a week ago. Anyways I go to bleed the air out of the system and coolant squirts out and has a steady flow. No air. Just a steady full stream of coolant. Does this mean there's too much coolant in system and I need to let it bleed off from the screw til it doesn't come out anymore or what? Did I mess something up? Please advise. Thanks

 

[Mister Luck]

Hi. New member and first post.

2009 ram with 5.7 hemi. I tried to flush heater core today bc I get 73 degree air thru my drivers side and 102 degree air thru passenger side. This truck is new to me. Bought a week ago. Anyways I go to bleed the air out of the system and coolant squirts out and has a steady flow. No air. Just a steady full stream of coolant. Does this mean there's too much coolant in system and I need to let it bleed off from the screw til it doesn't come out anymore or what? Did I mess something up? Please advise. Thanks

Do you have a pressure bleeder valve on your thermostat housing or can you give a better description of where your coolant bleeder valve is ?
Welcome to the forums

 

[bpolly2004]

The coolant bleeder is on the water pump housing. It's very close to the thermostat housing.

 

[bpolly2004]

It's just under the coolant temp sensor.

 

[Racer9]

I don't think your problem is with the coolant. If there is still such a thing as a blend door, that is more likely the problem. It is inside/under the dash, and directs air to the different vents.

 

[bpolly2004]

Ok. I checked the blend door actuator behind the glove box. It moves just fine with the different temps. Tomarrow I will try to check the actuators under the radio.

When I opened the bleed valve a lot of coolant came out. Would this mean ot was over filled? Do I let it bleed out from the plug til it stops?

 

[Racer9]

If you're getting no bubbles the coolant is bled. If you drain it until it stops, you will have too low coolant.
Check proper fill at the radiator cap and overflow tank. Do not open hot!!!! If you've been draining coolant you may need to add right into the radiator.

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[mrack]

You open the bleeder screw till coolant comes out, then close it while the coolant is coming out. Your bleeding out the air. Then top off to at the radiator cap, start it up and let it run for a couple minutes (radiator cap off), shut it off and check the bleeder again, top rad off again if needed, might take a couple rounds of that to be sure all air is out. Don’t let it get up to temp with the rad cap off. Then keep an eye on your coolant temps for a couple days to be sure. If your temperature suddenly spikes, you have an air bubble, shut the truck off and bleed it again.

 

[bpolly2004]

Ok. That makes sense. Thanks

 

[Burla]

Why did you flush radiator core in the first place? What do you mean you flushed heater core, tell us the procedure you did for that. At any rate, you need some rmi 25 in that truck, research that in search on this board. It will take any slime in the system and deposit it into over flow tank where you get it out. It is the answer for heater core flushes, or any radiator flush. Run it 500 miles take out junk in overflow, usually with a wet dry vac, and then go back with pre mixed mopar hoat. You still only have mopar hoat in your radiator?

 

[bpolly2004]

I followed the your advice and got the system bled. I have heat!!! My Temps are now 142.7 degrees driver and 141.3 degrees passenger side. I used the same thermometer for each test.

 

[bpolly2004]

By doing a heater core flush I pulled off heater hoses and sprayed water into the end of the hose. The other heater hose I connected an adapter to make hose longer. Sprayed water came out of the other hose and into a bucket. I did this procedure for both hoses. Where the water pump connects to each heater hose I used another hose as a jumper to bypass the heater core. Just to hold coolant in the radiator and water pump.
When i was done i reconnected the heater hoses to the ports on the water pump. Moved clamps into place. After I did that I filled the radiator back up with coolant.

I have never heard of rmi 25. But what I do know is that by flushing the heater core i now have heat from all the vents in the cab. I am running xerex g05. Same as my other 2010 chrysler town and country and 2010 dodge grand caravan that was totaled this past year.

 

[Burla]

Look into rmi 25, coolants dont have detergents and rmi 25 cleans the system, especially for someone using hose water, it will also remove calcium. No I don't get paid by them, that product has just helped me a lot, especially with an old vehicle that had multiple coolants, it was very slimey and rmi 25 took it all out.

 

[bpolly2004]

Well the heat on the drivers side is now blowing cool air again. It was great for the last 8 days. If the coolant is clean and looks fresh do I still need to use rmi 25?