Regular Cab Sport Leather Bucket Seat swap - How to get heated seats to work like factory option.

[OnSale]

It's definitely easier to just change the harness and parts. You only have an occupancy on the passenger seat to enable the passenger side air bags. The truck assumes that if it's being driven it has an adult in the drivers seat so there is no occupancy sensor on the driver's seat. The sensor is under the leather and glued to the foam. You can reach it from the back of the seat cushion. I'm not sure if you and get to it without removing a couple of hog rings but if memory serves me correctly you can. There is a possibility that your 12 has the same occupancy sensor as the 15 seats. If they are the same there is no reason to switch them as long as your harness will plug into it. The senor itself is just a flat looking piece of plastic with a pressure switch on it.

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None of the plugs under the seat match, so if I’m going to swap all this stuff to make it plug n play swap, I minus wel swap the sensor so that plug matches as well.

Thank you for all your help. I threw out my back earlier today, so it’s looking like I’m going to have to wait a couple days now to pull my 2012 seats and swap out the parts. Hopefully I can do it later this week and finish by the weekend.


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[OnSale]

It's definitely easier to just change the harness and parts. You only have an occupancy on the passenger seat to enable the passenger side air bags. The truck assumes that if it's being driven it has an adult in the drivers seat so there is no occupancy sensor on the driver's seat. The sensor is under the leather and glued to the foam. You can reach it from the back of the seat cushion. I'm not sure if you and get to it without removing a couple of hog rings but if memory serves me correctly you can. There is a possibility that your 12 has the same occupancy sensor as the 15 seats. If they are the same there is no reason to switch them as long as your harness will plug into it. The senor itself is just a flat looking piece of plastic with a pressure switch on it.

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Do the 4th gen seats have the vehicle vin anywhere on them? Stamped on the rails anywhere or maybe in an internal bracket or support beam? I’m curious what model and hear these seats are from. I was told a Sport and that’s it and I’m guessing 2015 based off of the “manyfactured date” on one of the seats stickers that had 2/15 as the date.


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[Baggio95]

I definitely defer to Ricks Ram and the other guys for their knowledge on all this. Rick and the others may not remember, but they gave me the info I needed to get '13+ heated/cooled Laramie Longhorn leather seat in my '12 ST.

I didn't have the factory on/off switch in the dash like you so had to use an aftermarket switch. It clearly doesn't work like the '13+ with fancy in dash digital display, but I have power adjustable hi/low heated and cooled seats in my trusty '12 3500 ST G56. My method isn't for everyone and I'm sure someone will chime in, but it works very well for me and my back/pelvis issues. Again, I defer to Ricks Ram and the guys like him for all technical matters. He specifically helped me with those wiring diagrams he posted and some questions. If you don't want to cut and swap the internals, all you have to do is use the diagrams he provided and de-pin what you need from the '13 harness and plug in into yours. After that, you just unzip the upper seatback upholstery and identify the fan wiring (2 wires) and the heating pad wiring (2 wires). Do the same for the lower seat pad. In the summer months I connect the cooling fans to the switch and in the colder months I connect the heater to the switch. Literally takes less than a minute.

There's a super long thread about the seats I linked below. I think my postings are in the high 140s. I'm not on here a ton and unfortunately won't have access to my truck for the next few weeks but PM me if you have questions or if I can help.

https://www.ramforum.com/threads/ho...express-tradesman.96759/page-147#post-1963120

 

[OnSale]

What impact wrench are you guys using to remove the seat bolts? I just bought a brand new Milwaukee M18 Impact Wrench and it barely got one of the driver side back bolts out. Won’t even budge the second one. I bent a small 2” extension and broke a brand new never used 18mm impact socket. Both on the same bolt trying to get it out. I dunno wtf to do.

What brand and model impact wrench are you guys using?


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[Bugme Notta]

I changed the leather seats this summer. He removed the bolts that held the support beam across where the upper half of the seats wouldn't fold, and then unzipped on both sides, and then removed the bolts holding the airbag boxes. But when unbuttoning the seats damaged the zippers and they did not fasten back, I had to look for ways to solve the problem. It turned out to be very difficult to replace the snake on the leather seats. Since careless replacement of snakes can damage the skin and it will lose its integrity. I found an excellent instruction for replacing snakes here https://leather-toolkits.com/blog/how-to-sew-zipper-on-leather/ , maybe someone will find this information useful.

 

[OnSale]

I changed the leather seats this summer. He removed the bolts that held the support beam across where the upper half of the seats wouldn't fold, and then unzipped on both sides, and then removed the bolts holding the airbag boxes. But when unbuttoning the seats damaged the zippers and they did not fasten back, I had to look for ways to solve the problem. It turned out to be very difficult to replace the snake on the leather seats. Since careless replacement of snakes can damage the skin and it will lose its integrity. I found an excellent instruction for replacing snakes here https://leather-toolkits.com/blog/how-to-sew-zipper-on-leather/ , maybe someone will find this information useful.

Lucky for me I took my time with the zippers and my air bags are all swapped, bolted into the leather seats, zippers are zipped back and closed, all is good. New sears and center floor console are in my truck and I’m just waiting on 2 Deutsche plugs from amazon so I can wire the +/- with a plug instead of crimps or tape so it’s safer and no exposed wiring. Plugs from 2012 truck didn’t match 2013+ seats so I had to cut the +/- wires to power both seats. However the plugs in the new 2013+ floor console DID match my 2012 truck and everything in the console works, no re-wiring or re-pinning it plugs was necessary!

Once I get the plugs tomorrow and get them pinned and plugged in, I then have to bolt the seats back in and I’m done, I’ll snap some pics and share them in here. All I can say is WOW what a difference the leather seats and console make coming from base model 100% manual no electric crappy cloth seats and a middle jump seat lol.