RetroFit, Painting Lenses, Mini H1/FX-R Projector Pre Build Questions...

[OnSale]

Ok so as some of you already know I'm picking up a set of OEM Projectors on wednesday. I would like to open them up and put in new projectors and a few other goodies, but I have a few questions first.

▪1. What would be better to swap in? Morimoto Mini H1's or the FX-R projectors? Would the mini H1's even fit into the oem projectors spot?

▪2. With either the Mini H1's or the FX-R's, are HID bulbs required or is it possible to fit and use an LED bulb? If so, what type of bulbs does each projector take?

▪3. How hard is it to wire up and install the Diode Dynamics Switchback LED boards that replace the oem led's along the bottom of the headlight? If I'm taking them apart, I'm doing everything I want done to them the first time. I'd like someone to answer this question that has actually done this part themselves.

▪4. What type of paint is the best to use on the projector shroud and the headlights inner bezels? Should I scuff the chrome with a fine grit sand paper or just wipe it with alcohol wipes first?

▪5. When painting the headlights, what are you guys using to paint the small details? Such as very small lines on the projector shroud. Or getting the lines perfect around the headlights curves. I know you guys arnt taping off and spraying, so what is best to use? Model paint? Fine brushes? What's best used for painting small/fine details.

▪6. What's the best headlight Re-Sealer? On my custom built RetroShop Quads that I just sold, Jeremy used the Morimoto Retro Rubber Sealent. Is there any other kinds out there and are they better?

And finally... if you have any links to YouTube videos or step by step guides on retrofitting the oem projectors, wiring up the switchback boards or any guides to painting headlight lenses, please share them

I'll be picking up the headlights on Wednesday and then I will be ordering everything I need once I get back home. So hopefully by then I can figure everything out and know exactly what I need to buy.

Thanks in advance for any help!!

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[OnSale]

How are you guys getting these clean, crisp edges like with the red paint in this photo? It seems like taping them off would result in crooked lines and areas where it's wider than others.

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[Rzrman328]

Just outta curiosity.....why?

I think the oem projectors look sick as is....IMO of course.

 

[OnSale]

Just outta curiosity.....why?

Because I want to custom paint them red and black. I also want the switchback led boards and the switchback halo/C-Bar from DD. And if I'm going to do ALL that, I minus well put a better projector in there as ive read the oem projector leaves much to be desired.

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[Rzrman328]

Very well.

I look forward to your build good sir.

 

[quietpeen]

How are you guys getting these clean, crisp edges like with the red paint in this photo? It seems like taping them off would result in crooked lines and areas where it's wider than others.

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Pretty sure that was done by retroshop and he has a painter

 

[OnSale]

Very well.

I look forward to your build good sir.

Thanks... I'm extremely excited to get started on them. I'm going to do it myself because if I go through Jeremy, what I want done runs about $1,625 if he supplies the headlights, and $1k + shipping if I send him my lights and those prices don't even include retrofitting a new projector into them. I'd imagine it would add another $200- $400 to retrofit a new projector into them. I'm thinking I can get all the parts I need for about $600 and save alot of money and be proud that I built them. I also contacted a newer company called Bullseye Retro and they quoted me $1,100 with them supplying the lights, but again, that's without retrofitting a new projector.

I'm just going to do it myself. It will be an awesome learning experience and I can proudly say "I built them" when people comment on the lights.

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[OnSale]

Pretty sure that was done by retroshop and he has a painter

Yea it was done by retroshop.... I was only using it as an example to ask how everyone painting these themselves are getting clean lines like in that photo. I was only using it as a reference photo.

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[00R/T]

First things first, be prepared for some trouble with the factory lights. In 2015 they changed the adhesive on the factory projectors and they're extremely difficult to open. Many of the pros I know say they're some of the most difficult lights out there. I've been messing with lights for years and have done several custom builds but I chickened out and am have Jeremy do the ones for my truck.

Matt @ Bullseye does good work too if you were considering going to him for something.

Now, on to the lights. The FX-R is the far better choice for these projectors. It fits right in place of the factory one with the brackets that are available. The MH1 is probably too small and you'll have to do extra fab work yourself. The big advantage of the FX-R is that it uses D2S bulbs. That means you have options to upgrade to high end OEM quality bulbs if you want and you don't have to worry about any shimming or anything. Speaking of bulbs, don't bother with LEDs. They won't blind anybody in a projector, but they don't perform well either. If you're running a proper HID projector, take advantage of it and run HIDs. There is currently nothing out there that will outperform an HID bulb in a projector designed for it.

Once the lights are open the DD boards shouldn't be too tricky to do. They have a video that shows the process.

For paint, you're going to want to treat it like any other part of your truck. Prep work is key, and you want to use proper automotive paint and clear. If you paint the inner bezel by the lens it will burn. It's just a matter of time. EZ-Off oven cleaner works well for removing chrome and then you have plastic you can prep. Scuffing and adhesion promoter is a good idea. Doing the detail work comes down to what you're comfortable with. I'm not pinstriper, so I'm taping and masking anything I'm doing.

And, finally, it's hard to go wrong with RetroRubber. There are other butyl sealants out there, but it is readily available and proven. I wouldn't deviate too far.

 

[CuylerTech]

Ive done 2 sets of Projectors and 1 set of quads. To put it blunt, like 00R/T Said, theyre a ***** to open. The key is to make sure you bake them long enough it starts to soften, but not too much that it melts the yellow reflectors. (ask me how I know). The retro Quik kit from TRS is the same one JJ uses, but replaces the hardware for different size screws than what are included. For Paint, I would use Oven cleaner to knock the chrome then use GOOD automotive paint, not the duplicolor **** you get at autozone. If you have a NAPA around, get them to mix you OEM colors or any color of your choosing. For clear the industry go to is SprayMax 2K clear. For both of these, WEAR A RESPIRATOR as they are urethane based. My advise to you if these are your first set, find a cheap busted one on ebay for $50-100 and experiment on that first. Not worth ruining $400+ dollars worth of lights because of stupid mistakes. There is a reason that JJ charges a decent (but fair) amount of money for his lights. The care and quality along with his killer warranty is what makes me keep going back to him for lights.

 

[OnSale]

First things first, be prepared for some trouble with the factory lights. In 2015 they changed the adhesive on the factory projectors and they're extremely difficult to open. Many of the pros I know say they're some of the most difficult lights out there. I've been messing with lights for years and have done several custom builds but I chickened out and am have Jeremy do the ones for my truck.

Matt @ Bullseye does good work too if you were considering going to him for something.

Now, on to the lights. The FX-R is the far better choice for these projectors. It fits right in place of the factory one with the brackets that are available. The MH1 is probably too small and you'll have to do extra fab work yourself. The big advantage of the FX-R is that it uses D2S bulbs. That means you have options to upgrade to high end OEM quality bulbs if you want and you don't have to worry about any shimming or anything. Speaking of bulbs, don't bother with LEDs. They won't blind anybody in a projector, but they don't perform well either. If you're running a proper HID projector, take advantage of it and run HIDs. There is currently nothing out there that will outperform an HID bulb in a projector designed for it.

Once the lights are open the DD boards shouldn't be too tricky to do. They have a video that shows the process.

For paint, you're going to want to treat it like any other part of your truck. Prep work is key, and you want to use proper automotive paint and clear. If you paint the inner bezel by the lens it will burn. It's just a matter of time. EZ-Off oven cleaner works well for removing chrome and then you have plastic you can prep. Scuffing and adhesion promoter is a good idea. Doing the detail work comes down to what you're comfortable with. I'm not pinstriper, so I'm taping and masking anything I'm doing.

And, finally, it's hard to go wrong with RetroRubber. There are other butyl sealants out there, but it is readily available and proven. I wouldn't deviate too far.

Well since I am opening them up and painting them, getting the all black ones isn't a must. I also found a set of OEM Projectors From a 2014 for the same price, $400, and they are only 1hr 3mins away from me versus the almost 3 hours the all black projectors are.

So in your opinion, the 13/14 projectors are easier to open than the 15+? If that's the case maybe I'll just get the black housing/chrome projector ones that are alot closer to me.

Speaking of ease of opening, are the tyc replicas the easiest to open? I can get a pair for $420 shipped from rock auto so if they are way easier to open i could also go that route.

So far it looks like im going to go with the FX-R projectors retrofitted, and a Morimoto HID kit. Painting should be fun lol, and do you have a link to the video showing how to install the diode dynamics switchback boards? That would be amazing.

I'm also up in the air about which Switchback I want for the projector. It's between the Diode Dynamics Halo/C-Bar switchbacks or the Morimoto XB Halo Switchbacks. Their is a huge price difference as the DD are $200 and the Morimoto are only $50. I guess this is a decision I'm going to end up making last second.

As far as paint I might just stick with painting whole sections red and black to keep it simple. As for the shroud I'm going to spray the shroud the base color and then use a fine paint brush to paint the accents.

So I guess the only decision left to make is do I buy the 2015 all black oem projectors 3hrs away for $400. The 2014 black/chrome oem projectors 1hr away for $400. Or do I buy the tyc reps for $420 shipped. If you could answer which one will be the easiest to open up, that would make my decision alot easier.

This will be my first headlight build and aslong as everything goes as planned, once this build is done I'm going to retrofit the morimoto matchbox projectors with the xsb Switchback halos into the oem Fogs and paint match them to the headlights. Then my headlights and Fogs will be paint matched and both be hid's with projectors.

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[OnSale]

Ive done 2 sets of Projectors and 1 set of quads. To put it blunt, like 00R/T Said, theyre a ***** to open. The key is to make sure you bake them long enough it starts to soften, but not too much that it melts the yellow reflectors. (ask me how I know). The retro Quik kit from TRS is the same one JJ uses, but replaces the hardware for different size screws than what are included. For Paint, I would use Oven cleaner to knock the chrome then use GOOD automotive paint, not the duplicolor **** you get at autozone. If you have a NAPA around, get them to mix you OEM colors or any color of your choosing. For clear the industry go to is SprayMax 2K clear. For both of these, WEAR A RESPIRATOR as they are urethane based. My advise to you if these are your first set, find a cheap busted one on ebay for $50-100 and experiment on that first. Not worth ruining $400+ dollars worth of lights because of stupid mistakes. There is a reason that JJ charges a decent (but fair) amount of money for his lights. The care and quality along with his killer warranty is what makes me keep going back to him for lights.

What is your recommended bake Tempature and time? Also, do I let the oven preheat to the set Tempature then out them in for the set time?

Also, what tool or object do you find is the best/easiest to use to open up the headlights?

Thanks for the tips on the paint and the respirator. I will definitely be using the respirator and I'll look into getting Napa to mix my paint.

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[CuylerTech]

Well since I am opening them up and painting them, getting the all black ones isn't a must. I also found a set of OEM Projectors From a 2014 for the same price, $400, and they are only 1hr 3mins away from me versus the almost 3 hours the all black projectors are.

So in your opinion, the 13/14 projectors are easier to open than the 15+? If that's the case maybe I'll just get the black housing/chrome projector ones that are alot closer to me.

Speaking of ease of opening, are the tyc replicas the easiest to open? I can get a pair for $420 shipped from rock auto so if they are way easier to open i could also go that route.

So far it looks like im going to go with the FX-R projectors retrofitted, and a Morimoto HID kit. Painting should be fun lol, and do you have a link to the video showing how to install the diode dynamics switchback boards? That would be amazing.

I'm also up in the air about which Switchback I want for the projector. It's between the Diode Dynamics Halo/C-Bar switchbacks or the Morimoto XB Halo Switchbacks. Their is a huge price difference as the DD are $200 and the Morimoto are only $50. I guess this is a decision I'm going to end up making last second.

As far as paint I might just stick with painting whole sections red and black to keep it simple. As for the shroud I'm going to spray the shroud the base color and then use a fine paint brush to paint the accents.

So I guess the only decision left to make is do I buy the 2015 all black oem projectors 3hrs away for $400. The 2014 black/chrome oem projectors 1hr away for $400. Or do I buy the tyc reps for $420 shipped. If you could answer which one will be the easiest to open up, that would make my decision alot easier.

This will be my first headlight build and aslong as everything goes as planned, once this build is done I'm going to retrofit the morimoto matchbox projectors with the xsb Switchback halos into the oem Fogs and paint match them to the headlights. Then my headlights and Fogs will be paint matched and both be hid's with projectors.

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I have a set on ebay of 13' Chromes that are already retro'd w/ retro quik/fxrs that has butyl instead of the permaseal they come with if youre interested. Would be easy to open and the lights are already retro'd so all you have to do is paint them.

 

[OnSale]

I have a set on ebay of 13' Chromes that are already retro'd w/ retro quik/fxrs that has butyl instead of the permaseal they come with if youre interested. Would be easy to open and the lights are already retro'd so all you have to do is paint them.

Link please?

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[CuylerTech]

Link please?

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Retrofitted Ram projector headlights | eBay

 

[00R/T]

A lot of aftermarket lights use butyl and are easy to open. I've heard the TYC use permaseal like OEM, though. They'll definitely be easier to open than the '15+ lights and probably close to the 13-14 factory ones. If it were me, I'd buy the '14 OEM lights as long as they're in good shape. It's a minor detail, but I like the RAM molded into the lens and the ram's head logo on the shroud.

Morimoto's HID stuff is great, but I think their LED stuff is just good. You won't be unhappy with their halos, but the DD setup is a far better product. The white is true, they're bright, and they were designed specifically to fit these lights.

 

[00R/T]

Here's the DD install video.

https://youtu.be/Vwtt88G87_s

 

[Tyler Cooke]

I just finished my first retrofit on my oem duals. It was one of the hardest projects I've done on my personal vehicle. Very time consuming. Make sure to not get in a hurry. Remove all the glue you can when you bake them apart. I used butyl and then hit the outside of the housings with black silicone for extra protection when I resealed. My paint looks bad cause I got in a hurry and didn't sand the chrome good enough. I got all my parts from Jeremy and the HID's are amazing. Good luck!!

 

[OnSale]

I just finished my first retrofit on my oem duals. It was one of the hardest projects I've done on my personal vehicle. Very time consuming. Make sure to not get in a hurry. Remove all the glue you can when you bake them apart. I used butyl and then hit the outside of the housings with black silicone for extra protection when I resealed. My paint looks bad cause I got in a hurry and didn't sand the chrome good enough. I got all my parts from Jeremy and the HID's are amazing. Good luck!!

Got any pictures???

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[blackbetty14]

Retro'd my stock 14 projector headlights with FXR kit from retrofitsource. The bolts sucked ass. Took a weekend and getting the old permaseal out was a PItA. Take your time and be careful. There is a reason they have chrome shrouds, they went to black but then back to chrome bc of the warranty issues with the black paint bubbling and peeling on the inside of the chrome shroud. The heat from the bulb and the beam heats the black paint up and ruins it. Dodge will warranty this by replacing it with a chrome shrouded version. The chrome reflects the light and doesn't heat up. Jeremy at retro shop won't paint the inside of the shroud and he leaves them chrome now.

No need for the silicone on the outside. The butyl will be overkill if I use the morimoto retro rubber and it will ooze out more than the permaseal and you can heat it up with a heat gun and manipulate or add more later. As long as you do a continuous bead and press down hard when you heat it up to to soften the butyl and then press the lense in hard. That butyl is sticky as hell. I left my black stock internals alone and the chrome shroud as well.

I retro'd my vertical fogs with 7.0s and the TYC replacement was not easy to open up. The other one I got a cheap DEPO and that opened real easy. So don't think the TYC will open easier.